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I would like to ask for comments on a highly disputed topic - table =
saws. After a long hiatus I am getting back into WW and need to update =
my table saw (currently a Ryobi BT3000). My future projects include: a =
sleigh bed, chest of drawers, bookcases, and nightstands. I know these =
are ambitious projects and I intend to start with smaller projects to =
re-immerse my feet. Now back to my dilemma. I am in the market for a =
good table saw and have been stewing about a contractor vs. a cabinet =
saw. I have read many good articles and reviews on the subject; however, =
they tend to contradict each other somewhat. Whatever saw I end up with =
must have a good fence! A biesemeyer fence spoiled me on a unisaw, years =
ago, at an Air Force Base wood hobby shop.=20
My top choice was the JET 708663DXK JTAS-10XL JET Left-Tilt Xacta Saw =
with 50" Fence, Router Lift, Upgrade Fence, and Bosch Router until I =
read a review in a recent magazine. It showed a picture of a cut that =
wasn't supportive for the saw. I would really appreciate comments about =
that review - either supporting or debunking that review. I really like =
that package, as I want to upgrade from my old Craftsman router as well.
On the other side of the spectrum I've been looking at the Grizzly =
contractor saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could buy a router and a =
Router Lift system for another $500-600. I like the integral router =
table/table saw system, but I remember reading that some people reverted =
back to a dedicated router table. Please feel free to share your =
opinions on this subject.=20
This is where it kind of falls apart for me. If I spend another $500 I =
get another 1.5 hp and a 52" fence system. I know it would be worth it, =
if only there wasn't a nagging question about the cut. On second =
thought, I would need to buy a mobile base and have a 220 plug put into =
the garage. I suppose that would elevate the price to about $2000. =
Roughly $800 more than a contractors saw, would it be wiser to spend =
that $800 on other tools like a jointer or band saw?
I am fully cognizant that only I can answer which saw is best for me and =
have others saws like the Grizzly 1023 dancing through my head; =
nevertheless, many of you have struggled with these questions and I =
would like to hear how you handled it, or how you would if you had to do =
it again.=20
Thanks, Mike
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<DIV>I would like to ask for comments on a highly disputed topic - table =
saws.=20
After a long hiatus I am getting back into WW and need to update my =
table saw=20
(currently a Ryobi BT3000). My future projects include: a sleigh bed, =
chest of=20
drawers, bookcases, and nightstands. I know these are ambitious projects =
and I=20
intend to start with smaller projects to re-immerse my feet. Now =
back to=20
my dilemma. I am in the market for a good table saw and have been =
stewing about=20
a contractor vs. a cabinet saw. I have read many good articles and =
reviews on=20
the subject; however, they tend to contradict each other somewhat. =
Whatever saw=20
I end up with must have a good fence! A biesemeyer fence spoiled me on a =
unisaw,=20
years ago, at an Air Force Base wood hobby shop. <BR><BR>My top choice =
was the=20
JET 708663DXK JTAS-10XL JET Left-Tilt Xacta Saw with 50" Fence, Router =
Lift,=20
Upgrade Fence, and Bosch Router until I read a review in a recent =
magazine. It=20
showed a picture of a cut that wasn't supportive for the saw. I would =
really=20
appreciate comments about that review - either supporting or debunking =
that=20
review. I really like that package, as I want to upgrade from my old =
Craftsman=20
router as well.<BR><BR>On the other side of the spectrum I've been =
looking at=20
the Grizzly contractor saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could buy a =
router and a=20
Router Lift system for another $500-600. I like the integral router =
table/table=20
saw system, but I remember reading that some people reverted back to a =
dedicated=20
router table. Please feel free to share your opinions on this subject.=20
<BR><BR>This is where it kind of falls apart for me. If I spend another =
$500 I=20
get another 1.5 hp and a 52" fence system. I know it would be worth it, =
if only=20
there wasn't a nagging question about the cut. On second thought, =
I would=20
need to buy a mobile base and have a 220 plug put into the garage. I =
suppose=20
that would elevate the price to about $2000. Roughly $800 more than a=20
contractors saw, would it be wiser to spend that $800 on other tools =
like a=20
jointer or band saw?<BR><BR>I am fully cognizant that only I can answer =
which=20
saw is best for me and have others saws like the Grizzly 1023 dancing =
through my=20
head; nevertheless, many of you have struggled with these questions and =
I would=20
like to hear how you handled it, or how you would if you had to do it =
again.=20
<BR><BR>Thanks, Mike<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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I have had the Jet JTAS 10" left tilt for about 3 1/2 years. It does every
thing I throw at it, acurately and with a WWII blade the cuts are shiney
smooth.
As for the article, the Jet may very well have not cut well. You SHOULD
make sure that the saw it properly tuned with a good to premium quality
blade if you want great cuts. I would guess the Jet in the article was
lacking in one of those areas. If you use a great blade and the new Jet
does not cut as good as anticipated, check that every thing is properly
aligned. Mine still cuts great and I only had to align the fence when I put
it all together.
: My top choice was the JET 708663DXK JTAS-10XL JET Left-Tilt Xacta Saw
with 50" Fence, Router Lift, Upgrade Fence, and Bosch Router until I read a
review in a recent magazine. It showed a picture of a cut that wasn't
supportive for the saw.
I have this model saw, along with the same extras.
It's terrific. I spent a little time aligning it
(it arrived with fine alignment, but I
got it even better aligned). It's powerful,
smooth, and gives superb cuts.
-- Andy Barss
> I like the integral router table/table saw system, but I
> remember reading that some people reverted back to
> a dedicated router table. Please feel free to share
> your opinions on this subject.
I like my relatively high RT (46 3/4") for "flat" router work. For vertical
work I'm considering putting an RT in my TS.
-- Mark
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 21:38:21 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Poseidon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>On the other side of the spectrum I've been looking at the Grizzly
>contractor saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could buy a router and a Router
>Lift system for another $500-600. I like the integral router table/table saw
>system, but I remember reading that some people reverted back to a dedicated
>router table. Please feel free to share your opinions on this subject.
Ed,
My router was in my saw wing for quite a while. I went to a
stand-alone table simply for cleanliness. The open bottom on the saw
wing made for a huge mess. Router tables are very easy to make
mobile, so they can easily be stored out of the way.
Barry
Have only seen good post on the Griz 1023. People that have them like
them. A cabinet saw is much more stable and stronger than a contactors
saw plus you never have to wonder about upgrading. I bought a used
Unisaw, a Hitachi 12MV router and am very happy. Plus a Unifence with
the T-Track so that I could add feather boards and board buddies and
clamps and whatever. Check w/Delta dealer and see about a factory
reconditioned Unisaw. I bought one so I KNOW they sell them. Think
about a shaper for big stuff and a router for smaller stuff. I would
suggest the following:
Cabinet saw-Jet, Delta, Grizzly, Powermatic, General
18" Mini-Max band saw or Laguna-great for resawing
Hitachi M12v router.
That is some serious machinery BUT have high resale vallue should/when
that day arrives. Always buy the best; you'll never regret it but you
will often find yourself regretting buying a cheaper machine just to
save a few bucks. You can find used fences on Ebay and other sites.
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 14:39:26 -0600, "Poseidon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I would like to ask for comments on a highly disputed topic - table saws. After a long hiatus I am getting back into WW and need to update my table saw (currently a Ryobi BT3000). My future projects include: a sleigh bed, chest of drawers, bookcases, and nightstands. I know these are ambitious projects and I intend to start with smaller projects to re-immerse my feet. Now back to my dilemma. I am in the market for a good table saw and have been stewing about a contractor vs. a cabinet saw. I have read many good articles and reviews on the subject; however, they tend to contradict each other somewhat. Whatever saw I end up with must have a good fence! A biesemeyer fence spoiled me on a unisaw, years ago, at an Air Force Base wood hobby shop.
>
>My top choice was the JET 708663DXK JTAS-10XL JET Left-Tilt Xacta Saw with 50" Fence, Router Lift, Upgrade Fence, and Bosch Router until I read a review in a recent magazine. It showed a picture of a cut that wasn't supportive for the saw. I would really appreciate comments about that review - either supporting or debunking that review. I really like that package, as I want to upgrade from my old Craftsman router as well.
>
>On the other side of the spectrum I've been looking at the Grizzly contractor saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could buy a router and a Router Lift system for another $500-600. I like the integral router table/table saw system, but I remember reading that some people reverted back to a dedicated router table. Please feel free to share your opinions on this subject.
>
>This is where it kind of falls apart for me. If I spend another $500 I get another 1.5 hp and a 52" fence system. I know it would be worth it, if only there wasn't a nagging question about the cut. On second thought, I would need to buy a mobile base and have a 220 plug put into the garage. I suppose that would elevate the price to about $2000. Roughly $800 more than a contractors saw, would it be wiser to spend that $800 on other tools like a jointer or band saw?
>
>I am fully cognizant that only I can answer which saw is best for me and have others saws like the Grizzly 1023 dancing through my head; nevertheless, many of you have struggled with these questions and I would like to hear how you handled it, or how you would if you had to do it again.
>
>Thanks, Mike
"Poseidon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On the other side of the spectrum I've been looking at the Grizzly
contractor saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could buy a router and a Router
Lift system for another $500-600. I like the integral router table/table saw
system, but I remember reading that some people reverted back to a dedicated
router table. Please feel free to share your opinions on this subject.
My thoughts:
Do you have the space for a router table? If not, the tableboard of the saw
is a great place and cheaper.
If you have the room, I'd go for a separate table.
If you have the router setup for a particular operation, it wil not be
disturbed if you need to use the saw.
Dust collection is easier to build into a stand alone cabinet and fence.
Less chance of damaging a router ibt when you move the tablesaw fence in
that direction.
Dedicated router fence can have featherboards or stops attached easily.
Ed
I have a two car garage. Thanks for the tips. I see that a dedicated table
is the way to go...
--
Michael Hoskowicz
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Poseidon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> On the other side of the spectrum I've been looking at the Grizzly
> contractor saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could buy a router and a Router
> Lift system for another $500-600. I like the integral router table/table
saw
> system, but I remember reading that some people reverted back to a
dedicated
> router table. Please feel free to share your opinions on this subject.
>
>
> My thoughts:
> Do you have the space for a router table? If not, the tableboard of the
saw
> is a great place and cheaper.
>
> If you have the room, I'd go for a separate table.
> If you have the router setup for a particular operation, it wil not be
> disturbed if you need to use the saw.
> Dust collection is easier to build into a stand alone cabinet and fence.
> Less chance of damaging a router ibt when you move the tablesaw fence in
> that direction.
> Dedicated router fence can have featherboards or stops attached easily.
> Ed
>
>
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The G1023SLX would be $1180.00 shipped. Anyone know how the Jet =
compares?
--=20
Michael Hoskowicz
"Lawrence A. Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
> Have only seen good post on the Griz 1023. People that have them like
> them. A cabinet saw is much more stable and stronger than a contactors
> saw plus you never have to wonder about upgrading. I bought a used
> Unisaw, a Hitachi 12MV router and am very happy. Plus a Unifence with
> the T-Track so that I could add feather boards and board buddies and
> clamps and whatever. Check w/Delta dealer and see about a factory
> reconditioned Unisaw. I bought one so I KNOW they sell them. Think
> about a shaper for big stuff and a router for smaller stuff. I would
> suggest the following:
>=20
> Cabinet saw-Jet, Delta, Grizzly, Powermatic, General
> 18" Mini-Max band saw or Laguna-great for resawing
> Hitachi M12v router.
> That is some serious machinery BUT have high resale vallue should/when
> that day arrives. Always buy the best; you'll never regret it but you
> will often find yourself regretting buying a cheaper machine just to
> save a few bucks. You can find used fences on Ebay and other sites.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 14:39:26 -0600, "Poseidon" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>=20
> >I would like to ask for comments on a highly disputed topic - table =
saws. After a long hiatus I am getting back into WW and need to update =
my table saw (currently a Ryobi BT3000). My future projects include: a =
sleigh bed, chest of drawers, bookcases, and nightstands. I know these =
are ambitious projects and I intend to start with smaller projects to =
re-immerse my feet. Now back to my dilemma. I am in the market for a =
good table saw and have been stewing about a contractor vs. a cabinet =
saw. I have read many good articles and reviews on the subject; however, =
they tend to contradict each other somewhat. Whatever saw I end up with =
must have a good fence! A biesemeyer fence spoiled me on a unisaw, years =
ago, at an Air Force Base wood hobby shop.=20
> >
> >My top choice was the JET 708663DXK JTAS-10XL JET Left-Tilt Xacta Saw =
with 50" Fence, Router Lift, Upgrade Fence, and Bosch Router until I =
read a review in a recent magazine. It showed a picture of a cut that =
wasn't supportive for the saw. I would really appreciate comments about =
that review - either supporting or debunking that review. I really like =
that package, as I want to upgrade from my old Craftsman router as well.
> >
> >On the other side of the spectrum I've been looking at the Grizzly =
contractor saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could buy a router and a =
Router Lift system for another $500-600. I like the integral router =
table/table saw system, but I remember reading that some people reverted =
back to a dedicated router table. Please feel free to share your =
opinions on this subject.=20
> >
> >This is where it kind of falls apart for me. If I spend another $500 =
I get another 1.5 hp and a 52" fence system. I know it would be worth =
it, if only there wasn't a nagging question about the cut. On second =
thought, I would need to buy a mobile base and have a 220 plug put into =
the garage. I suppose that would elevate the price to about $2000. =
Roughly $800 more than a contractors saw, would it be wiser to spend =
that $800 on other tools like a jointer or band saw?
> >
> >I am fully cognizant that only I can answer which saw is best for me =
and have others saws like the Grizzly 1023 dancing through my head; =
nevertheless, many of you have struggled with these questions and I =
would like to hear how you handled it, or how you would if you had to do =
it again.=20
> >
> >Thanks, Mike
>
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The G1023SLX would be $1180.00 shipped. =
Anyone know=20
how the Jet compares?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-- <BR>Michael =
Hoskowicz</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>"Lawrence A. Ramsey" <</FONT><A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email protected]"><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>[email protected]</FONT></A><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>> wrote in=20
message </FONT><A =
href=3D"news:[email protected]"><FONT=20
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>news:[email protected]</FONT></A><FONT =
face=3DArial size=3D2>...</FONT></DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>> =
Have only seen=20
good post on the Griz 1023. People that have them like<BR>> them. A =
cabinet=20
saw is much more stable and stronger than a contactors<BR>> saw plus =
you=20
never have to wonder about upgrading. I bought a used<BR>> Unisaw, a =
Hitachi=20
12MV router and am very happy. Plus a Unifence with<BR>> the T-Track =
so that=20
I could add feather boards and board buddies and<BR>> clamps and =
whatever.=20
Check w/Delta dealer and see about a factory<BR>> reconditioned =
Unisaw. I=20
bought one so I KNOW they sell them. Think<BR>> about a shaper for =
big stuff=20
and a router for smaller stuff. I would<BR>> suggest the =
following:<BR>>=20
<BR>> Cabinet saw-Jet, Delta, Grizzly, Powermatic, General<BR>> =
18"=20
Mini-Max band saw or Laguna-great for resawing<BR>> Hitachi M12v=20
router.<BR>> That is some serious machinery BUT have high resale =
vallue=20
should/when<BR>> that day arrives. Always buy the best; you'll never =
regret=20
it but you<BR>> will often find yourself regretting buying a cheaper =
machine=20
just to<BR>> save a few bucks. You can find used fences on Ebay and =
other=20
sites.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 14:39:26 =
-0600,=20
"Poseidon" <</FONT><A href=3D"mailto:[email protected]"><FONT =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>[email protected]</FONT></A><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>><BR>>=20
wrote:<BR>> <BR>> >I would like to ask for comments on a highly =
disputed topic - table saws. After a long hiatus I am getting back into =
WW and=20
need to update my table saw (currently a Ryobi BT3000). My future =
projects=20
include: a sleigh bed, chest of drawers, bookcases, and nightstands. I =
know=20
these are ambitious projects and I intend to start with smaller projects =
to=20
re-immerse my feet. Now back to my dilemma. I am in the market for =
a good=20
table saw and have been stewing about a contractor vs. a cabinet saw. I =
have=20
read many good articles and reviews on the subject; however, they tend =
to=20
contradict each other somewhat. Whatever saw I end up with must have a =
good=20
fence! A biesemeyer fence spoiled me on a unisaw, years ago, at an Air =
Force=20
Base wood hobby shop. <BR>> ><BR>> >My top choice was the =
JET=20
708663DXK JTAS-10XL JET Left-Tilt Xacta Saw with 50" Fence, Router Lift, =
Upgrade=20
Fence, and Bosch Router until I read a review in a recent magazine. It =
showed a=20
picture of a cut that wasn't supportive for the saw. I would really =
appreciate=20
comments about that review - either supporting or debunking that review. =
I=20
really like that package, as I want to upgrade from my old Craftsman =
router as=20
well.<BR>> ><BR>> >On the other side of the spectrum I've =
been=20
looking at the Grizzly contractor saw ($720 shipped) and figure I could =
buy a=20
router and a Router Lift system for another $500-600. I like the =
integral router=20
table/table saw system, but I remember reading that some people reverted =
back to=20
a dedicated router table. Please feel free to share your opinions on =
this=20
subject. <BR>> ><BR>> >This is where it kind of falls apart =
for me.=20
If I spend another $500 I get another 1.5 hp and a 52" fence system. I =
know it=20
would be worth it, if only there wasn't a nagging question about the =
cut. =20
On second thought, I would need to buy a mobile base and have a 220 plug =
put=20
into the garage. I suppose that would elevate the price to about $2000. =
Roughly=20
$800 more than a contractors saw, would it be wiser to spend that $800 =
on other=20
tools like a jointer or band saw?<BR>> ><BR>> >I am fully =
cognizant=20
that only I can answer which saw is best for me and have others saws =
like the=20
Grizzly 1023 dancing through my head; nevertheless, many of you have =
struggled=20
with these questions and I would like to hear how you handled it, or how =
you=20
would if you had to do it again. <BR>> ><BR>> >Thanks, =
Mike<BR>>=20
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