I have a new Andersen slider with a pine interior. I want to just leave it
natural. Since the door is rather expensive, I don't want to screw it up.
I was thinking of using some Benjamin Moore wood conditioner that I already
have (about 2 years old). Then a coat of gloss oil poly followed by satin
oil poly.
Should I do something different? I know I can use a shellac seal coat, but
since I already have the Moore wood conditioner, I thought I'd just use
that.
Should I use water poly instead to prevent it from yellowing over time?
"Buck Turgidson" wrote: .
>>I have a new Andersen slider with a pine interior. I want to just leave
>>it natural. Since the door is rather expensive, I don't want to screw it
>>up.
>>
>> I was thinking of using some Benjamin Moore wood conditioner that I
>> already have (about 2 years old).
A brand new door deserves brand new finish materials, IMHO.
Lew
Buck,
First, I agree with the other poster, use fresh materials. I buy
small cans, knowing it will be some time before I need it again.
Second, I did my Pella siding door about two years ago. Sand everything
lightly. The issue here is that the door manufacturers use similar color
woods on the door and trim, but definitely not the same wood. That means the
woods ability to take in materials will differ. Doors take a lot of abuse,
simple fact of life. I have use the oil based products on wood when I know
there will be heavy use.(slight amber color) It just take more time, no real
additional effort. Mask off all the windows, wider than you think you need
to, newspaper is cheap, replacing high E glass after is has been damaged by
trying to get stuff off is expensive.
Do not use cheep brushes. For however long you will own this door, your will
see the result of you work. The cost of the material divided by 15 years
makes it inexpensive investment per year. OH and door cover the floor. PIA
cleaning that up as well.
Lessons learned by doing it wrong.........
Paul
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a new Andersen slider with a pine interior. I want to just leave
>it natural. Since the door is rather expensive, I don't want to screw it
>up.
>
> I was thinking of using some Benjamin Moore wood conditioner that I
> already have (about 2 years old). Then a coat of gloss oil poly followed
> by satin oil poly.
>
> Should I do something different? I know I can use a shellac seal coat,
> but since I already have the Moore wood conditioner, I thought I'd just
> use that.
>
> Should I use water poly instead to prevent it from yellowing over time?
>
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I have a new Andersen slider with a pine interior. I want to just
> leave it natural. Since the door is rather expensive, I don't want
> to screw it up.
>
> I was thinking of using some Benjamin Moore wood conditioner that I
> already have (about 2 years old). Then a coat of gloss oil poly
> followed by satin oil poly.
>
> Should I do something different? I know I can use a shellac seal
> coat, but since I already have the Moore wood conditioner, I
> thought I'd just use that.
>
> Should I use water poly instead to prevent it from yellowing over
> time?
The color will change over time regardless of what you put on it
(other than paint) due to light. Pine will get considerably darker.
The "yellowing" from oil poly is just due to the color of the material
and is slight.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a new Andersen slider with a pine interior. I want to just leave
>it natural. Since the door is rather expensive, I don't want to screw it
>up.
>
> I was thinking of using some Benjamin Moore wood conditioner that I
> already have (about 2 years old). Then a coat of gloss oil poly followed
> by satin oil poly.
>
> Should I do something different? I know I can use a shellac seal coat,
> but since I already have the Moore wood conditioner, I thought I'd just
> use that.
>
> Should I use water poly instead to prevent it from yellowing over time?
>
IMO, the wood conditioner is a waste of time. It won't offer any more
protection, may even be a hindrance if you use water based poly. I'd put
the first coat of poly on thinned about 25%, the light sanding with 220
grit, then one coat followed by 320 sanding, then final coat. Light sand
with 400 if it has any bumps at all.
The oil versus water appearance is personal preference. I like the warmth
oil gives.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/