I am admittedly a newbie to HVLP...
I have read that a viscosity cup is useful (if not necessary) in order
to select the right nozzle size and to know how much to thin the liquid
being sprayed.
Googling I saw Ford and Zahn viscosity cups of various sizes... which
left me confused about what type of cup I would want for "run of the
mill" HVLP spraying where I might want to spray anything from shellac to
lacquer to poly (oil or water) to latex paint...
Could someone point me in the direction of what cup (or cups) I might
want to get for such purpose?
Also any recommendations for specific cups or brands?
Thanks!
On Nov 22, 3:45=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> Shellac's about all I spray, and always with an HVLP rig.
! ! ! ! !
Maybe time for my lesson, se=F1or.
I tried spraying shellac out of my Fuji four stage, and about halfway
through a large kitchen of cabinets I had large icicle looking things
coming out from around the fluid passage, just around the super fine
air holes. I had been spraying for about 20 minutes straight and shot
about quart and a half of material. I got splatter. I got pissed
off.
I stopped, cleaned the gun, and it did the same thing. I had it on
low pressure, and was spraying straight sanding sealer, so I the
viscosity wasn't a problem. Someway, between me and my setup the
shellac fired off too fast.
I can't seem to get the mix right for my HVLP, and actually, not even
close.
It is exasperating, since I can easily spray BIN which is no more than
a pigmented shellac. A call to the manufacturer of BIN was no help;
they told me they had "proprietary conditioners" in the BIN mix that
allowed me to spray it so easily. What makes that more maddening is
that Zinsser makes both the shellac and BIN and they still couldn't
help me.
Oddly, I can easily shoot shellac out of a CAS gun, including when
mixed down to sanding sealer cut, so I don't worry about it. But out
of a true HVLP, it's voodoo to me.
> Until a year ago with an el cheapo ($150) Campbell-Hausfeld rig; now
> with an Earlex 5000 SprayStation ... still mid-level or below.
>
> I usw two cups: one filled with the shellac cut I'm spraying; the other
> filled with alcohol for gun storage between coats.
>
> Between coats I simply switch cups, slosh the alcohol around good and
> spray some through the gun. When I'm ready for the next coat, I simply
> switch out the cups.
Now that sounds really simple. Suspiciously simple. Any offerings to
those Cajun folks in your heritage... maybe a chant or two you aren't
sharing? =3D^0
If you would indulge me, how big are your spray projects? Are you
spraying out enough material all at once to dump the gun? How big is
your cup? What size air cap are you using, and what cut do you
shoot? IIRC, the Earlex is a two stage unit, no? Are you controlling
the air flow or are you wide out?
Inquiring minds... I hate unsolved puzzles.
TIA -
Robert
tiredofspam wrote:
> Reading your info, you appear to have a lot of experience.
> What I don't understand is what am I doing wrong if I shoot with
> shellac successfully with an hvlp gun. I don't have a problem
> cleaning. Just throw alcohol thru, open the valves to throw a lot of
> alcohol
> thru and your done. I don't use brushes to clean, I just run it
> through. When I reload it melts any light coating that might be there.
>
> So what am I doing wrong?
>
Apparently - nothing. Some materials like shellac may well clean well - in
some guns, just by shooting the respective solvent through them. Other
materials will come back to bite you in the ass with that technique.
Catalytic finishes won't be as nice to your gun, if you ever take up
shooting those. Back in the day when lacquer was king, a lot of guys used
to just shoot lacquer thinner through their gun to clean it, and all was
well - for a while. Like your experience, if there was anything left in the
gun, the next time you used it, the residue would blow out as the new
material burned into it. Sorta... Stuff built up over time and eventually
the gun started misbehaving. So, ya stripped it down, soaked it in thinner
or carb cleaner for a couple of days, and went at it with brushes and picks.
Royal PITA.
Maybe you won't hit this point with shellac (I don't shoot it, so I don't
really know how it behaves), and maybe your gun will tolerate more build up
than another gun will. If so - good for you! If however, you begin to see
your gun behaving erratically, or in an unfamiliar way, the first place you
might want to consider looking is at build up.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Dec 1, 2:02=A0pm, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Correction - shellacChicken Coop master
Yep - sprayin' bug spit isn't the only thing he is good at!
What a coop... !!
Robert
On Nov 22, 1:54=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> Dead man walking here ... =A0:)
Still LMAO...
That is either the bitter irony of experience, or a warning of an
upcoming attempt...
Or... could it be... success???
Robert
On Nov 24, 10:52=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>> =A0 =A0What size air cap are you using, and what cut do you
> > shoot?
>
> I generally shoot shellac with 2.0mm air cap and a 1 1/2 -2# cut, but
> don't get real fussy measuring.
I don't know if you are still following this Karl, but I have been
away on bidness that couldn't wait. So.... a 2mm aircap, eh? The
one specified for latex, and heavy paints? I would never have tried
that. Literally, never. Sometimes I do great thinking out of the
box, and as in this example, I just don't.
> I do get fussy about the humidity and which alcohol I'm using when it's
> high (99% isopropyl), otherwise I just use denatured from the Borg.
>
> =A0 =A0IIRC, the Earlex is a two stage unit, no? =A0Are you controlling
>
> > the air flow or are you wide out?
>
> Just turn her on let'r rip.
Sometimes, that's the best way.
> When it comes to spray finishing I operate on the "ignorance is bliss"
> principle (the less I know the less I have to fuss with settings and the
> less I'm befuddled) ...
I always like the process to be as simple as possible. That's why I
try new finishes. The easier the application and more dependable the
outcome is for me determines if I will learn to use it.
> I turn it on, adjust for the pattern I want,
> adjust the material flow and distance (on a piece of scrap) to my
> suiting, and wave away (using my politically correct, well practiced
> waving method, which apparently also has the pope's blessing because it
> comes out good ... AAMOF, I no longer feel I need to say a rosary before
> pulling the trigger!)
Indeed... I have seen the work. Excellent work, excellent finish on
it.
I bow to the shellac master. :^)
Thanks for the follow up.
Robert
[email protected] wrote:
>
> I bow to the shellac master. :^)
>
Correction - shellacChicken Coop master
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
I do agree if it works you have reached your result.
I think you missed one of the amazing things about Shellac.
It pops the wood. Better than most other forms of finish.
BTW I also french polish, so I am not limited to spraying it.
I love it for its ease of use, no VOCs.
I wish I had the HVLP when I used to spray Imron. I still have my scott
airpac style respirator.
On 11/23/2011 2:56 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Nov 23, 1:01 pm, tiredofspam<nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
>
>> Reading your info, you appear to have a lot of experience.
>> What I don't understand is what am I doing wrong if I shoot with shellac
>> successfully with an hvlp gun. I don't have a problem cleaning.
>> Just throw alcohol thru, open the valves to throw a lot of alcohol thru
>> and your done. I don't use brushes to clean, I just run it through. When
>> I reload it melts any light coating that might be there.
>>
>> So what am I doing wrong?
>
> Obviously, if it all works for you, nothing. End results of finishing
> are subjective, and if you are happy with your results and method of
> application, don't change anything.
>
> FOR ME, shellac didn't get it done. I am not sure if I spray too long
> (literally spraying out a quart cup before stopping), or of when
> spraying cabinets the blowback didn't contribute to my unsuccessful
> attempts. Maybe it was all of that.
>
> I did that when I thought priming was necessary. Now I spot prime
> only, and use the finish material as a primer and top coat as
> recommended by better finishers than me. No problems since.
>
> That doesn't mean I am not still puzzled and annoyed by my lack of
> ability to solve the problem. To me, I should be able to spray a
> solid 30 minutes and blow out a couple of quarts before I have to
> worry about any material's behavior.
>
> I have seen Karl's work ( da Swinger ) up close and personal, and his
> quality of work and and scope of projects are just about as good as it
> gets. He is the shellac master, no doubt. His projects (and Leon's
> too, by the way) tell their own story of their mastery of wood craft
> and finishing. Karl has long been a fan of bug spit, way back to
> O'Deen's days here.
>
> But, me and shellac don't see eye to eye anyway. I tend to think in
> commercial terms, and that means hard finishes that don't need any
> kind of maintenance. Shellac isn't abrasion resistant, is provides no
> color protection, it isn't cleanable except with a damp rag, it isn't
> heat resistant, and provides little water resistance.
>
> While many tout its ability for easy repair if damaged, it won't be
> so easy if you are using a tinted shellac, shellac that is naturally
> colored (orange, amber, etc.) or shellac over stain. Shellac will
> bond with the stain in most cases, and pull up the color with the
> finish. Good luck matching that! Of course, clear shellac is a snap
> to repair unless it is on some old antique which you shouldn't be
> refinishing anyway.
>
> Seriously, there aren't many hard fast rules to finishing. I have
> said it before and will repeat it, most folks learn finishing by
> folklore. They will try something traded in idle conversation with
> someone at Woodcraft on a Saturday sale before they will sit down and
> research out the process for themselves.
>
> So if your processes and materials are working and you like your end
> result, don't change. You have reached the goal!
>
> Robert
>
>
Ahhhh, you tried spraying it straight without adding alcohol?
Hmmmmm. could be the need to thin it.. I still think sealer is too heavy
and needs to be cut down.
On 11/23/2011 1:25 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Nov 22, 3:45 pm, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Shellac's about all I spray, and always with an HVLP rig.
>
> ! ! ! ! !
>
> Maybe time for my lesson, señor.
>
> I tried spraying shellac out of my Fuji four stage, and about halfway
> through a large kitchen of cabinets I had large icicle looking things
> coming out from around the fluid passage, just around the super fine
> air holes. I had been spraying for about 20 minutes straight and shot
> about quart and a half of material. I got splatter. I got pissed
> off.
>
> I stopped, cleaned the gun, and it did the same thing. I had it on
> low pressure, and was spraying straight sanding sealer, so I the
> viscosity wasn't a problem. Someway, between me and my setup the
> shellac fired off too fast.
> I can't seem to get the mix right for my HVLP, and actually, not even
> close.
>
> It is exasperating, since I can easily spray BIN which is no more than
> a pigmented shellac. A call to the manufacturer of BIN was no help;
> they told me they had "proprietary conditioners" in the BIN mix that
> allowed me to spray it so easily. What makes that more maddening is
> that Zinsser makes both the shellac and BIN and they still couldn't
> help me.
>
> Oddly, I can easily shoot shellac out of a CAS gun, including when
> mixed down to sanding sealer cut, so I don't worry about it. But out
> of a true HVLP, it's voodoo to me.
>
>> Until a year ago with an el cheapo ($150) Campbell-Hausfeld rig; now
>> with an Earlex 5000 SprayStation ... still mid-level or below.
>>
>> I usw two cups: one filled with the shellac cut I'm spraying; the other
>> filled with alcohol for gun storage between coats.
>>
>> Between coats I simply switch cups, slosh the alcohol around good and
>> spray some through the gun. When I'm ready for the next coat, I simply
>> switch out the cups.
>
> Now that sounds really simple. Suspiciously simple. Any offerings to
> those Cajun folks in your heritage... maybe a chant or two you aren't
> sharing? =^0
>
> If you would indulge me, how big are your spray projects? Are you
> spraying out enough material all at once to dump the gun? How big is
> your cup? What size air cap are you using, and what cut do you
> shoot? IIRC, the Earlex is a two stage unit, no? Are you controlling
> the air flow or are you wide out?
>
> Inquiring minds... I hate unsolved puzzles.
>
> TIA -
>
> Robert
Reading your info, you appear to have a lot of experience.
What I don't understand is what am I doing wrong if I shoot with shellac
successfully with an hvlp gun. I don't have a problem cleaning.
Just throw alcohol thru, open the valves to throw a lot of alcohol thru
and your done. I don't use brushes to clean, I just run it through. When
I reload it melts any light coating that might be there.
So what am I doing wrong?
On 11/22/2011 2:33 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Nov 22, 1:21 am, blueman<[email protected]> wrote:
>> I am admittedly a newbie to HVLP...
>>
>> I have read that a viscosity cup is useful (if not necessary) in order
>> to select the right nozzle size and to know how much to thin the liquid
>> being sprayed.
>>
>> Googling I saw Ford and Zahn viscosity cups of various sizes... which
>> left me confused about what type of cup I would want for "run of the
>> mill" HVLP spraying where I might want to spray anything from shellac to
>> lacquer to poly (oil or water) to latex paint...
>>
>> Could someone point me in the direction of what cup (or cups) I might
>> want to get for such purpose?
>>
>> Also any recommendations for specific cups or brands?
>>
>> Thanks!
>
> First, spraying shellac from an HVLP rig is suicide. You can get the
> finish out of the gun, but keeping it clean during a shoot and
> cleaning it afterward is a huge, time consuming waste. I would look
> at a a CAS gun or an old high pressure rig to do that.
>
> Second, there is a lot of information on this group starting years ago
> about HVLP spraying, gun set up, etc. You can easily search this
> group from here:
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/topics
>
> I have had several Ford cups, and have never used any of them. Why?
> Because every gun shoots differently the way you set up your spray rig
> will change that even more. Ford cups are made to provide guidelines
> for spraying, not parameters set in stone. The only exception to that
> would be folks that shoot high end finishes in a controlled
> environment such as upper end car finishers, airplane finishers,
> chemical coating specialists, etc. where all other aspects of the
> application environment is controlled.
>
> The Ford cup and its brothers are simply one more thing to learn. The
> Ford cup only measures viscosity, nothing else. Not one other thing.
> So even if you have the material set up right, it won't help you with
> how that works with your tip (say a 1.3mm vs. a 1.5mm), your turbine
> (if a true HVLP) and how that output works with your gun. It is a
> guideline because in HVLP you throw droplets of material thinned for
> application, as opposed to material that was marginally thinned and
> "atomized" when shot out of a high pressure rig. The Ford cup is an
> artifact from a different type of material application.
>
> Your best bet (to me, always) is to buy the finishes you want to learn
> to shoot and experiment with your gun and thinning mixtures. Spent
> $50 on finish and thinner and mix up some sample batches of finish to
> shoot. Record time of day, temp, humidity, and of course, your
> mixture. If you have multiple tips, write that down along with the
> gun settings. If you are using a CAS gun, then write down the
> compressor psi settings at the compressor and at the gun. On my old
> Fuji gun it didn't have anything on the fluid knob except the
> knurling, so I took a three cornered file an put a notch in the knob
> at twelve o'clock for reference. That way I knew exactly what to
> record.
>
> After you spray enough, you will pick up the characteristics of the
> gun and the materials you shoot and will be able to use the equipment
> without too much fuss. So practice, practice, practice.
>
> Most of the time you can get good results right off the bat with
> today's finishes. But repeatable, great results are from learning the
> craft, no different from learning woodworking or brick laying. You
> have to invest the time and money.
>
> Robert
On 11/23/2011 12:25 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> If you would indulge me, how big are your spray projects? Are you
> spraying out enough material all at once to dump the gun? How big is
> your cup?
Not all that big ... this is about as big as they get:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopTexasTansu2005
Mostly furniture sized projects ... I leave the kitchens, and most of
the client's who want a lacquer finish, to the pro's ... but I do spray
all my personal projects.
What size air cap are you using, and what cut do you
> shoot?
I generally shoot shellac with 2.0mm air cap and a 1 1/2 -2# cut, but
don't get real fussy measuring.
I do get fussy about the humidity and which alcohol I'm using when it's
high (99% isopropyl), otherwise I just use denatured from the Borg.
IIRC, the Earlex is a two stage unit, no? Are you controlling
> the air flow or are you wide out?
Just turn her on let'r rip.
> Inquiring minds... I hate unsolved puzzles.
When it comes to spray finishing I operate on the "ignorance is bliss"
principle (the less I know the less I have to fuss with settings and the
less I'm befuddled) ... I turn it on, adjust for the pattern I want,
adjust the material flow and distance (on a piece of scrap) to my
suiting, and wave away (using my politically correct, well practiced
waving method, which apparently also has the pope's blessing because it
comes out good ... AAMOF, I no longer feel I need to say a rosary before
pulling the trigger!)
Dood!, I'm a simple man ... no complications please!
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On 11/23/2011 12:25 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Now that sounds really simple. Suspiciously simple. Any offerings to
> those Cajun folks in your heritage... maybe a chant or two you aren't
> sharing? =^0
>
> If you would indulge me, how big are your spray projects? Are you
> spraying out enough material all at once to dump the gun? How big is
> your cup? What size air cap are you using, and what cut do you
> shoot? IIRC, the Earlex is a two stage unit, no? Are you controlling
> the air flow or are you wide out?
>
> Inquiring minds... I hate unsolved puzzles.
Came in late, worked hard ... give me until sometime Friday and I'll
address this. Going to lick a wet dog now ...
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On 11/22/2011 1:33 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> First, spraying shellac from an HVLP rig is suicide.
Dead man walking here ... :)
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:52:02 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/23/2011 12:25 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> If you would indulge me, how big are your spray projects? Are you
>> spraying out enough material all at once to dump the gun? How big is
>> your cup?
>
>Not all that big ... this is about as big as they get:
>
>https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopTexasTansu2005
Oh, the BeigeSu project.
>Mostly furniture sized projects ... I leave the kitchens, and most of
>the client's who want a lacquer finish, to the pro's ... but I do spray
>all my personal projects.
Smart man.
> IIRC, the Earlex is a two stage unit, no? Are you controlling
>> the air flow or are you wide out?
>
>Just turn her on let'r rip.
VERY cool.
>> Inquiring minds... I hate unsolved puzzles.
>
>When it comes to spray finishing I operate on the "ignorance is bliss"
>principle (the less I know the less I have to fuss with settings and the
>less I'm befuddled) ... I turn it on, adjust for the pattern I want,
>adjust the material flow and distance (on a piece of scrap) to my
>suiting, and wave away (using my politically correct, well practiced
>waving method, which apparently also has the pope's blessing because it
>comes out good ... AAMOF, I no longer feel I need to say a rosary before
>pulling the trigger!)
>
>Dood!, I'm a simple man ... no complications please!
KISS has a very large following here, too.
--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck
On Nov 22, 1:21=A0am, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am admittedly a newbie to HVLP...
>
> I have read that a viscosity cup is useful (if not necessary) in order
> to select the right nozzle size and to know how much to thin the liquid
> being sprayed.
>
> Googling I saw Ford and Zahn viscosity cups of various sizes... which
> left me confused about what type of cup I would want for "run of the
> mill" HVLP spraying where I might want to spray anything from shellac to
> lacquer to poly (oil or water) to latex paint...
>
> Could someone point me in the direction of what cup (or cups) I might
> want to get for such purpose?
>
> Also any recommendations for specific cups or brands?
>
> Thanks!
First, spraying shellac from an HVLP rig is suicide. You can get the
finish out of the gun, but keeping it clean during a shoot and
cleaning it afterward is a huge, time consuming waste. I would look
at a a CAS gun or an old high pressure rig to do that.
Second, there is a lot of information on this group starting years ago
about HVLP spraying, gun set up, etc. You can easily search this
group from here:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/topics
I have had several Ford cups, and have never used any of them. Why?
Because every gun shoots differently the way you set up your spray rig
will change that even more. Ford cups are made to provide guidelines
for spraying, not parameters set in stone. The only exception to that
would be folks that shoot high end finishes in a controlled
environment such as upper end car finishers, airplane finishers,
chemical coating specialists, etc. where all other aspects of the
application environment is controlled.
The Ford cup and its brothers are simply one more thing to learn. The
Ford cup only measures viscosity, nothing else. Not one other thing.
So even if you have the material set up right, it won't help you with
how that works with your tip (say a 1.3mm vs. a 1.5mm), your turbine
(if a true HVLP) and how that output works with your gun. It is a
guideline because in HVLP you throw droplets of material thinned for
application, as opposed to material that was marginally thinned and
"atomized" when shot out of a high pressure rig. The Ford cup is an
artifact from a different type of material application.
Your best bet (to me, always) is to buy the finishes you want to learn
to shoot and experiment with your gun and thinning mixtures. Spent
$50 on finish and thinner and mix up some sample batches of finish to
shoot. Record time of day, temp, humidity, and of course, your
mixture. If you have multiple tips, write that down along with the
gun settings. If you are using a CAS gun, then write down the
compressor psi settings at the compressor and at the gun. On my old
Fuji gun it didn't have anything on the fluid knob except the
knurling, so I took a three cornered file an put a notch in the knob
at twelve o'clock for reference. That way I knew exactly what to
record.
After you spray enough, you will pick up the characteristics of the
gun and the materials you shoot and will be able to use the equipment
without too much fuss. So practice, practice, practice.
Most of the time you can get good results right off the bat with
today's finishes. But repeatable, great results are from learning the
craft, no different from learning woodworking or brick laying. You
have to invest the time and money.
Robert
On Nov 23, 1:01=A0pm, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
> Reading your info, you appear to have a lot of experience.
> What I don't understand is what am I doing wrong if I shoot with shellac
> successfully with an hvlp =A0gun. I don't have a problem cleaning.
> Just throw alcohol thru, open the valves to throw a lot of alcohol thru
> and your done. I don't use brushes to clean, I just run it through. When
> I reload it melts any light coating that might be there.
>
> So what am I doing wrong?
Obviously, if it all works for you, nothing. End results of finishing
are subjective, and if you are happy with your results and method of
application, don't change anything.
FOR ME, shellac didn't get it done. I am not sure if I spray too long
(literally spraying out a quart cup before stopping), or of when
spraying cabinets the blowback didn't contribute to my unsuccessful
attempts. Maybe it was all of that.
I did that when I thought priming was necessary. Now I spot prime
only, and use the finish material as a primer and top coat as
recommended by better finishers than me. No problems since.
That doesn't mean I am not still puzzled and annoyed by my lack of
ability to solve the problem. To me, I should be able to spray a
solid 30 minutes and blow out a couple of quarts before I have to
worry about any material's behavior.
I have seen Karl's work ( da Swinger ) up close and personal, and his
quality of work and and scope of projects are just about as good as it
gets. He is the shellac master, no doubt. His projects (and Leon's
too, by the way) tell their own story of their mastery of wood craft
and finishing. Karl has long been a fan of bug spit, way back to
O'Deen's days here.
But, me and shellac don't see eye to eye anyway. I tend to think in
commercial terms, and that means hard finishes that don't need any
kind of maintenance. Shellac isn't abrasion resistant, is provides no
color protection, it isn't cleanable except with a damp rag, it isn't
heat resistant, and provides little water resistance.
While many tout its ability for easy repair if damaged, it won't be
so easy if you are using a tinted shellac, shellac that is naturally
colored (orange, amber, etc.) or shellac over stain. Shellac will
bond with the stain in most cases, and pull up the color with the
finish. Good luck matching that! Of course, clear shellac is a snap
to repair unless it is on some old antique which you shouldn't be
refinishing anyway.
Seriously, there aren't many hard fast rules to finishing. I have
said it before and will repeat it, most folks learn finishing by
folklore. They will try something traded in idle conversation with
someone at Woodcraft on a Saturday sale before they will sit down and
research out the process for themselves.
So if your processes and materials are working and you like your end
result, don't change. You have reached the goal!
Robert
On 11/22/2011 3:16 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Nov 22, 1:54 pm, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Dead man walking here ... :)
>
> Still LMAO...
>
> That is either the bitter irony of experience, or a warning of an
> upcoming attempt...
>
> Or... could it be... success???
Shellac's about all I spray, and always with an HVLP rig.
Until a year ago with an el cheapo ($150) Campbell-Hausfeld rig; now
with an Earlex 5000 SprayStation ... still mid-level or below.
I usw two cups: one filled with the shellac cut I'm spraying; the other
filled with alcohol for gun storage between coats.
Between coats I simply switch cups, slosh the alcohol around good and
spray some through the gun. When I'm ready for the next coat, I simply
switch out the cups.
The only time I contemplate suicide is during the sanding leading up to
breaking out the spray unit ... and even that has subdued somewhat with
my Festool sanders/vac combo.
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www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop