GR

Gerald Ross

27/12/2007 9:14 PM

Centering router baseplate

My PC 690 with plunge base is mainly used to rout circles using a
template and template guide bushing. The problem is that the bit is
not centered in the bushing. I cannot move the bushing or the
baseplate. The bushing fits tightly in the hole and the baseplate is
attached by tapered screws in tapered holes.

Is there a simple way to correct this?
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Too much of a good thing is *wonderful*.




This topic has 11 replies

LT

"Lyndell Thompson"

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

27/12/2007 9:30 PM

Gerald, to get a really close tolerance you may have to make your own.
Basically you use the baseplate you have for the coutersunk screws that hold
it to the router, then you install the new baseplate from lexan (or what
have you) and plunge thru it with a 1/4" router bit. Now you get a perfectly
sized hole saw(starret are good -lee valley I think) I beleive 1-3/8" and
using the 1/4" pilot hole (the holesaw also has 1/4" pilot bit) you drill
the bushing hole and with another holesaw you cut the relief for the
bushing. This should make a near perfect centered basplate. I downloaded an
article that told all this but I can't find it right now. Do a search for
hitachi M12V router baseplate. I am on dialup but if you can't find it, ping
me and I will look it up for you. Hope this helps.
Good luck, Lyndell


"Gerald Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My PC 690 with plunge base is mainly used to rout circles using a template
> and template guide bushing. The problem is that the bit is not centered in
> the bushing. I cannot move the bushing or the baseplate. The bushing fits
> tightly in the hole and the baseplate is attached by tapered screws in
> tapered holes.
>
> Is there a simple way to correct this?
> --
> Gerald Ross
> Cochran, GA
>
> Too much of a good thing is *wonderful*.
>
>
>
>

LH

"Lew Hodgett"

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

27/12/2007 6:48 PM


"Gerald Ross" wrote:
:> My PC 690 with plunge base is mainly used to rout circles using a
> template and template guide bushing. The problem is that the bit is
> not centered in the bushing.

There are at least a couple of solutions depending on the size of the
circles.

If the finished circles are large enough to allow the use of a circle
cutting jig, the problem goes away.

If the circles are to small for a jig and you are stuck with a guide
bushing, then as others have suggested, make your own baseplate.

Lew
.

LT

"Lyndell Thompson"

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

27/12/2007 10:18 PM

Here ya go Gerald. It is a repost of the original website I got it from but
is the same article. It is for the M12V hitachi router but the basics are
the same for any router.
Lyndell watch the word wrap

http://www.canadianwoodworking.com/forum/showthread.php?p=85421



----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerald Ross" <[email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 9:14 PM
Subject: Centering router baseplate


> My PC 690 with plunge base is mainly used to rout circles using a template
> and template guide bushing. The problem is that the bit is not centered in
> the bushing. I cannot move the bushing or the baseplate. The bushing fits
> tightly in the hole and the baseplate is attached by tapered screws in
> tapered holes.
>
> Is there a simple way to correct this?
> --
> Gerald Ross
> Cochran, GA
>
> Too much of a good thing is *wonderful*.
>
>
>

p

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

27/12/2007 8:16 PM

You can get close; see pin & ring system, ask for instruction sheet if
desired.
******************
http://patwarner.com/sundries.html
*******************************************************************

On Dec 27, 6:14=A0pm, Gerald Ross <[email protected]> wrote:
> My PC 690 with plunge base is mainly used to rout circles using a
> template and template guide bushing. The problem is that the bit is
> not centered in the bushing. I cannot move the bushing or the
> baseplate. The bushing fits tightly in the hole and the baseplate is
> attached by tapered screws in tapered holes.
>
> Is there a simple way to correct this?
> --
> Gerald Ross
> Cochran, GA
>
> Too much of a good thing is *wonderful*.

Jj

JeffB

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

27/12/2007 7:09 PM

Make your own baseplate... mount it on the router base and plunge a bit
through it to get a centered hole.
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email


Gerald Ross wrote:
> My PC 690 with plunge base is mainly used to rout circles using a
> template and template guide bushing. The problem is that the bit is not
> centered in the bushing. I cannot move the bushing or the baseplate. The
> bushing fits tightly in the hole and the baseplate is attached by
> tapered screws in tapered holes.
>
> Is there a simple way to correct this?

GR

Gerald Ross

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

28/12/2007 11:07 AM

Bonehenge (B A R R Y) wrote:
> On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 21:14:28 -0500, Gerald Ross <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>My PC 690 with plunge base is mainly used to rout circles using a
>>template and template guide bushing. The problem is that the bit is
>>not centered in the bushing. I cannot move the bushing or the
>>baseplate. The bushing fits tightly in the hole and the baseplate is
>>attached by tapered screws in tapered holes.
>>
>>Is there a simple way to correct this?
>
> 1.) Drill the tapers out to flat bottomed holes of 1/2 the base
> thickness. Slightly enlarge the screw holes. Replace the screws
> with flat heads, leaving them loose. Install the bushing and a
> centering cone. Tighten the screws.
>

Thanks! You win the prize- A free vacation in Tadzukistan. This sounds
like the simplest correction so far.

> - or -
>
> 2.) Make a new baseplate out of plastic, 1/4" ply, MDF, or hardboard.
>
> If you've got extra bases, mark this one as centered with a Sharpie.
> Each time you use it, simply check the centering with a cone, and
> you're good to go.
>
> As far as #2 goes, it's a good habit to get into. Lot's of times, a
> square base, bases with larger or smaller holes, etc... are handy.
> Making a base can be done in minutes, usually with scrap material.


--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Tried to play my shoehorn... all I got
was footnotes!



BB

"Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

29/12/2007 6:00 PM

On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 08:41:35 -0800, Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>BTW, the DeWalt 618 (I think that's the number) comes with the oversize
>holes, the panhead screws, and a centering cone. Works great.


Bosch does the same with the 1617, but they make you get your own
cone.

Mi

Mike in Arkansas

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

27/12/2007 6:25 PM


> Is there a simple way to correct this?
> --
If it was mine, I'd replace the tapered screws with a flat head bolt
of the correct size and either drill countersunk, slightly oversized
holes or flatten the taper in the existing holes. You could also
goto http://www.patwarner.com/round_subbase.html
Good Luck

BB

"Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

28/12/2007 8:33 AM

On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 21:14:28 -0500, Gerald Ross <[email protected]>
wrote:

>My PC 690 with plunge base is mainly used to rout circles using a
>template and template guide bushing. The problem is that the bit is
>not centered in the bushing. I cannot move the bushing or the
>baseplate. The bushing fits tightly in the hole and the baseplate is
>attached by tapered screws in tapered holes.
>
>Is there a simple way to correct this?

1.) Drill the tapers out to flat bottomed holes of 1/2 the base
thickness. Slightly enlarge the screw holes. Replace the screws
with flat heads, leaving them loose. Install the bushing and a
centering cone. Tighten the screws.

- or -

2.) Make a new baseplate out of plastic, 1/4" ply, MDF, or hardboard.

If you've got extra bases, mark this one as centered with a Sharpie.
Each time you use it, simply check the centering with a cone, and
you're good to go.

As far as #2 goes, it's a good habit to get into. Lot's of times, a
square base, bases with larger or smaller holes, etc... are handy.
Making a base can be done in minutes, usually with scrap material.

BB

"Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

28/12/2007 5:05 PM

On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 11:07:20 -0500, Gerald Ross <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Bonehenge (B A R R Y) wrote:
>> On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 21:14:28 -0500, Gerald Ross <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>My PC 690 with plunge base is mainly used to rout circles using a
>>>template and template guide bushing. The problem is that the bit is
>>>not centered in the bushing. I cannot move the bushing or the
>>>baseplate. The bushing fits tightly in the hole and the baseplate is
>>>attached by tapered screws in tapered holes.
>>>
>>>Is there a simple way to correct this?
>>
>> 1.) Drill the tapers out to flat bottomed holes of 1/2 the base
>> thickness. Slightly enlarge the screw holes. Replace the screws
>> with flat heads, leaving them loose. Install the bushing and a
>> centering cone. Tighten the screws.
>>
>
>Thanks! You win the prize- A free vacation in Tadzukistan. This sounds
>like the simplest correction so far.

Thanks, but one minor correction is in order.

Replace the existing flat head screws with round heads. A flat
interface between the back of the new screw head and it's mating
surface is required.

LB

Larry Blanchard

in reply to Gerald Ross on 27/12/2007 9:14 PM

29/12/2007 8:41 AM

On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 17:05:34 +0000, Bonehenge (B A R R Y) wrote:

> Replace the existing flat head screws with round heads. A flat
> interface between the back of the new screw head and it's mating
> surface is required.

Pan head screws would work better. Flat on top and bottom so they won't
have to be recessed as far as the round head ones.

BTW, the DeWalt 618 (I think that's the number) comes with the oversize
holes, the panhead screws, and a centering cone. Works great.


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