Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I do
remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw? As
a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw? As
>a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
I'm a develoepr also. The table saw scares the daylights out of me.
I'm considering getting a full face shield for the table saw just in
case of a kickback.
I experienced a kickback from my benchtop saw when I had it. It was a
piece of laminate floor maybe 12" long, 6" wide, and 1/4" thick. I'm
still not quite sure of the chain of events. The entire experience was
over in a fraction of a second. The board hit me low in the chest. It
caused a shallow gash that I still have a scar from. It was enough to
cause me to bleed, but did nothing to my shirt. After hitting me, the
board came up and smacked me in the face. It was enough force that it
felt like someone was pushing the board in my face. No injuries there,
but it sure felt strange.
Now I have a 1.5hp contractor's saw. I haven't had any kickback on it
yet. I think the day is coming though. Here's what I do:
Use a splitter. I'm not currently using one since the one that came
with the saw was so bad that I felt it was more dangerous. Boards kept
hanging up on it. I have a new splitter that I just bought, but havn't
put on yet.
Stand to the side of the workpiece so that if it does go, it goes past
you instead of in to you. This may not always be feasible, but when
cutting skinny stuff, it should keep you from getting impaled.
Similarly, have extra people in the shop not stand behind you while you
make a cut.
Don't cut thin stuff. In other words, if you have a 24" wide board and
you need to cut 1" off, put the remaining 23" between the fence and
blade while letting the 1" fall off. If you put the 1" between the
fence and blade, that's a kickback hazzard.
Don't reach behind a running saw blade to get a piece you just cut. If
you bump the loose piece, it can catch the blade and force your hand
into the blade on the way toward you.
Always wear eye protection. I think it's far more likely that you'll
have a little cutoff piece propelled back at you than the entire
workpiece.
Use a zero-clearance throat plate. If the opening is too big, the
little pieces can cat caught and thrown back.
If it's taking too much force to cut, stop.
If it feels wrong, stop.
Dado blades add to the danger so be extra careful when using them.
Board buddies or a power feeder probably help the situation a lot.
I'm sure other people can suggest other things.
brian
Locutus wrote:
> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I do
> remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw? As
> a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
Speaking from experience, be absolutely certain that any wood that you
use does not have a foreign object in it - such as a nail.
"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I
> do remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
> As a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>
You've had and will have some good responses. However, here is my rule of
thumb (So I can keep mine!) Have respect, not fear of the machine. Learn
how to adjust it and how to know when it needs adjusting. Keep the wood
down and tight against the fence. Don't have anyone help you control the
feed or support the outfeed. (Make or buy an outfeed table.)
Dave
An old solid oak tree is just a nut that refused to give up.
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
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See the first chapter of Ian Kirby's book "The Accurate Table Saw" for
discussion of how to keep extremities attached.
One simple additional way to get a kickback- workpiece and waste not
completely separated, and pinch the blade. (Lotsa ways that can happen,
and when the "kick" causes them to pinch tighter, bada-bing ...)
Definite tummy-tucker.
J
Locutus wrote:
> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I do
> remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw? As
> a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
Yep, mine too as a Sysadmin/Programmer. Depending on the kind of
woodworking you want to do, you might want to consider a bandsaw. I
sold my tablesaw, mainly because of lack of space when we bought a new
car. I now have a bandsaw and really love it. Don't miss my table saw
at all. Have to find different ways to do some things, but I am going
more neander (hand tools) all the time. Course, you can still get
badly hurt on a bandsaw. But I love the added versatility.
HTH
jim
Locutus wrote:
> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I do
> remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw? As
> a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
Yep, mine too as a Sysadmin/Programmer. Depending on the kind of
woodworking you want to do, you might want to consider a bandsaw. I
sold my tablesaw, mainly because of lack of space when we bought a new
car. I now have a bandsaw and really love it. Don't miss my table saw
at all. Have to find different ways to do some things, but I am going
more neander (hand tools) all the time. Course, you can still get
badly hurt on a bandsaw. But I love the added versatility.
HTH
jim
The root cause of kickback is the workpiece getting pinched between the
blade and the fence. There are a couple of reasons why this happens:
The most common reason is that the workpiece turns slightly (i.e.
doesn't stay tight against the fence) while pushing it through. Keep
in mind that the teeth on the blade are slightly wider than the rest of
the "meat" of the blade. This means that during an ideal cut, the only
parts of the blade ever to contact the workpiece are the teeth. In
reality, however, if you're not careful to constantly push the
workpiece up against the fence, it can turn a little, and the front
corner can come into contact with the inner part of the blade. The
friction between the blade and the workpiece causes a force which wants
to further turn the workpiece which causes the workpiece to bind even
harder, causing more friction which causes even more turning and
binding until, a fraction of a second later, the piece comes flying
back at you at mach 10. Inevitably, despite rotating rapidly through
the air, it will strike you in the gut with its sharpest point every
time.
This scenario happens almost exclusively when you are cutting something
which is wider than it is long. It's also the reason why you should
never use the miter gauge at the same time as the fence, unless you're
VERY careful to apply pressure to keep the piece between the blade and
the fence pushed tightly against the fence or against the miter gauge.
This also happens fairly frequently when cutting very large pieces of
plywood. Despite your best efforts to keep the piece held tightly
against the fence, it's way too easy to torque the workpiece and bind
it against the blade. On large sheets of plywood, once it binds on the
blade, it usually rides up on top of the blade where it gets hurled at
you at high velocity, leaving a nice rustic scarring pattern (and
possibly some blood stains) across the face of the plywood.
Note that in opposition to Brian's advice, ripping a 1" strip off a 24"
piece is LESS likely to cause binding (and, hence, kickback) by keeping
only 1" between the blade and the fence. The larger the ratio of
length:width of the piece between the blade and the fence, the better.
Another common reason for kickback is improper use of a pushstick. If
you're ripping a piece 2" or wider, you can pretty safely push the
piece through with your fingers. When the piece is narrower than that,
however, you'll want to use a pushstick or scrap of wood to push it
through without getting your fingers too close to the blade. If you
don't use a pushstick and simply guide the piece along from outside the
blade, the part between the blade and the fence will most likely be
shot backwards once you finish the cut. This is a lot less violent
than the other scenario, however. Depending on it's length, the piece
usually only flies 5 or 10 feet.
Kickback can also occur when cutting warped boards. Sometimes even
straight boards will warp once you cut them and release the tension
from the grain. This warping can sometimes cause the piece to push
away from the fence and bind into the blade. In most cases where
warping is an issue, you'll be talking about ripping boards that are at
least a couple of feet long. That usually means that the length:width
ratio is high, so you're not that likely to experience kickback. You
may, however, experience enough binding to burn the wood or even bring
the blade to a screeching halt. This can be a dangerous situation, as
you don't want to remove you hands from the workpiece allowing the
blade to start back up and throw it backwards, but you also need to
shut the power off as soon as possible. Often, the circuit breaker on
the motor or in your breaker panel will trip in this case. A splitter
can help immensely to avoid this problem.
You can also experience kickback (and rough looking cuts) when the
blade isn't perfectly parallel to the fence. You'll want to make sure
your saw is adjusted to keep the blade, fence, and miter slot all
parallel to each other.
Last, if you try to cut pieces that are exremely small, especially
without a zero clearance insert, you're almost guaranteed that the
piece will kick back at you. The good news it that the pieces are
light enough not to break any ribs when they hit you. The bad news is
that such pieces are sometimes small enough to penetrate the skin
rather than just bruise. They also tend to ricochet in random
directions adding to the fun and sport.
"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote
> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I
> do remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
> As a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
The fairly comprehensive notes on my web site - Circular Sawbench Safety
(including Buying a Circular Sawbench) might be of some use.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
If you want to avoid kickback, watch David Marks work on DIY with his
home made cutting sleds. The work is held or clamped firmly on the sled
and the whole assembly slides nicely through the blade. . . . and
NUMERO UNO! Always have safety glasses on. Ripping should be done with
guide rollers or home made featherboards clamped in place to control
the board. Always use a push stick and auxiliary roller stand for long
boards.
Bugs
Actually, as stated below, ripping is a fairly easy opertaion for a
bandsaw. Really, it depends on what you want to do. I just thru it
out there as I wish I had thought about a bandsaw when I first bought
my tablesaw. If you are doing mostly cabinets, shelves and remodeling,
then a tablesaw would be better. If, on the other hand, you are more
interested in building furniture, then (IMHO) a bandsaw would be
better. They're quieter, less intimidating (the dado blade on my
tablesaw sounded like it could rip your arm off, chew it up, spit it
out and not blink), can resaw, cut curves, etc. But, also, as stated
below, no good for dados. Then you either get out a hand plane or a
router.
HTH
jim
Locutus wrote:
> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I do
> remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
This has been addressed in a number of places online. Some places to read:
http://www.cariboo.bc.ca/hsafety/procedures/list/tablesaw.html
http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=317
You may wish to consider looking at some books at the library as well.
Finally, you might consider the "Sawstop" saw. It costs more, but will
bring the saw to a stop very quickly if the blade touches part of your
body. There are some caveats though, a google search in this newsgroup
will give some discussion threads.
Chris
"Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Locutus wrote:
>> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one
>> since Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from
>> a kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it.
>> I do remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>>
>> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
>
> This has been addressed in a number of places online. Some places to read:
>
> http://www.cariboo.bc.ca/hsafety/procedures/list/tablesaw.html
> http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=317
>
> You may wish to consider looking at some books at the library as well.
>
> Finally, you might consider the "Sawstop" saw. It costs more, but will
> bring the saw to a stop very quickly if the blade touches part of your
> body. There are some caveats though, a google search in this newsgroup
> will give some discussion threads.
>
> Chris
Thanks, I did some looking and turned mostly the information that is in the
first link you gave, information that anyone with common sense should know.
I am looking for more specific information about what can cause kickbacks
and obviously how to prevent them.
"brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
> >As
>>a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>
> I'm a develoepr also. The table saw scares the daylights out of me.
> I'm considering getting a full face shield for the table saw just in
> case of a kickback.
>
> I experienced a kickback from my benchtop saw when I had it. It was a
> piece of laminate floor maybe 12" long, 6" wide, and 1/4" thick. I'm
> still not quite sure of the chain of events. The entire experience was
> over in a fraction of a second. The board hit me low in the chest. It
> caused a shallow gash that I still have a scar from. It was enough to
> cause me to bleed, but did nothing to my shirt. After hitting me, the
> board came up and smacked me in the face. It was enough force that it
> felt like someone was pushing the board in my face. No injuries there,
> but it sure felt strange.
>
> Now I have a 1.5hp contractor's saw. I haven't had any kickback on it
> yet. I think the day is coming though. Here's what I do:
>
> Use a splitter. I'm not currently using one since the one that came
> with the saw was so bad that I felt it was more dangerous. Boards kept
> hanging up on it. I have a new splitter that I just bought, but havn't
> put on yet.
>
> Stand to the side of the workpiece so that if it does go, it goes past
> you instead of in to you. This may not always be feasible, but when
> cutting skinny stuff, it should keep you from getting impaled.
>
> Similarly, have extra people in the shop not stand behind you while you
> make a cut.
>
> Don't cut thin stuff. In other words, if you have a 24" wide board and
> you need to cut 1" off, put the remaining 23" between the fence and
> blade while letting the 1" fall off. If you put the 1" between the
> fence and blade, that's a kickback hazzard.
>
> Don't reach behind a running saw blade to get a piece you just cut. If
> you bump the loose piece, it can catch the blade and force your hand
> into the blade on the way toward you.
>
> Always wear eye protection. I think it's far more likely that you'll
> have a little cutoff piece propelled back at you than the entire
> workpiece.
>
> Use a zero-clearance throat plate. If the opening is too big, the
> little pieces can cat caught and thrown back.
>
> If it's taking too much force to cut, stop.
>
> If it feels wrong, stop.
>
> Dado blades add to the danger so be extra careful when using them.
>
> Board buddies or a power feeder probably help the situation a lot.
>
> I'm sure other people can suggest other things.
>
> brian
>
Brian, thanks for the exccellent reply, this kind of info is what I was
looking for.
Locutus wrote:
> I am looking for more specific information about what can cause kickbacks
> and obviously how to prevent them.
Kickbacks are caused by the blade teeth catching in the work, grabbing
it, and flinging it at you. Generally this occurs when the teeth at the
back of the saw catch on the cut.
This in turn can be triggered by any number of things:
1) not holding down the back of the board (helps to use a push block,
not just a push stick, can also use a featherboard on the fence to hold
the wood down)
2) the wood warping and pinching the blade at the back (use a
splitter/riving knife the exact width of the blade, or even a hair wider)
3) offcuts catching on the back (don't use the mitre guage and fence
together--if the offcut pivots slightly it can catch between the fence
and blade and get flung)
Chris
"jimg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Locutus wrote:
>> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one
>> since
>> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
>> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I
>> do
>> remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>>
>> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
>> As
>> a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>
> Yep, mine too as a Sysadmin/Programmer. Depending on the kind of
> woodworking you want to do, you might want to consider a bandsaw. I
> sold my tablesaw, mainly because of lack of space when we bought a new
> car. I now have a bandsaw and really love it. Don't miss my table saw
> at all. Have to find different ways to do some things, but I am going
> more neander (hand tools) all the time. Course, you can still get
> badly hurt on a bandsaw. But I love the added versatility.
>
> HTH
>
> jim
>
Jim, thanks for the advice. I can't imagine ripping stock with a bandsaw?
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Locutus wrote:
>>
>> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one
>> since
>> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
>> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I
>> do
>> remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>>
>> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
>> As
>> a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>
> If you write software you probably are good at solving
> problems. Not sure how many engineering courses a
> software engineer is required to take but just in case
> you didn't take physics, statics or dynamics this may
> provide many of the parameters of kickback - with
> diagrams with colored arrows and all.
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/KickBack1.html
>
> If you understand how and why things happen you don't
> have to memorize a bunch of rules - and remember to
> apply them.
>
> charlie b
Charlie, excellent link!
"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 14:57:03 -0500, "Locutus" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
>>Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
>>kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I
>>do
>>remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>>
>>What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
>>As
>>a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>>
>
>
> Manufacturers of table saws are so gun shy of lawsuits that might
> result from"failure to warn" or "failure to guard" that it would
> surprise me if you didn't have pages of both general and specific
> warning information in your instruction manual when you purchase your
> saw. Read it.
>
> Frank
Thanks for the smug answer, but I was looking for more personal experiences
and opinions that you can't get from manual.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to share your thoughts and experiences.
"Lee Gordon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey Locutus ...
>
> You shop at the Borg?
>
Absolutely, resistance is futile.
Michael E. Kempke wrote:
> I have an anti kickback device my Dad gave me several years ago it's
> from Leichtung (spelling) workshops. I dont remember the actual name
> of the device but its similar to the "board buddies" I have been using
> these devices for about 10 years and have never (knock on wood) had a
> kickback either. The device has a wheel which can be set up to rotate
> freely (no kickback but fence pressure) or to rotate in 1 direction
> only so you get kickback protection in addition to fence pressure..
I've got the same ones. They can be set to run on either side of the
fence and the "against the fence" force can be adjusted as well by
changing the wheel angle.
I've had mine for many years. As you say, I've never had a kickback (or
a pushback) when using them.
--
It's turtles, all the way down
Locutus wrote:
>
> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I do
> remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw? As
> a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
If you write software you probably are good at solving
problems. Not sure how many engineering courses a
software engineer is required to take but just in case
you didn't take physics, statics or dynamics this may
provide many of the parameters of kickback - with
diagrams with colored arrows and all.
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/KickBack1.html
If you understand how and why things happen you don't
have to memorize a bunch of rules - and remember to
apply them.
charlie b
Locutus wrote:
> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I do
> remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw? As
> a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>
>
A Google search of "table saw safety rules" yielded this site:
http://www.cariboo.bc.ca/Hsafety/procedures/list/tablesaw.html
They have a lot of rules listed. The ones I remember from high school were:
- Never use rip fence and miter gauge together (kickback)
- If it feels dangerous, don't do it
- Use a blade guard
I've heard varying arguments regarding the height of the blade. The URL
I cited says keep the blade just slightly above the workpiece to
minimize injury if you slip. Other sources I've read say raise the blade
as high as possible. This makes the cutting action *downward* onto the
table versus *sideways* into the direction of the cut. I tend to keep
the blade high. Good luck, have fun and be safe. I used to be a software
engineer, now I'm just overhead :-) But I *do* have all 10.
~Mark.
I've had one real kickback, luckily without injury. If you search the
archives of this newsgroup (Google groups "advanced search") you'll find
quite a bit on this subject. If I were you, would immerse myself in the
literature on tablesaw safety, become an expert at it, and put the rules
into practice. That's the only thing preventing what could be a
life-changing event.
"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
> Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
> kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I
> do remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
> What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
> As a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>
Locutus wrote:
> "Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Locutus wrote:
>>
>>>Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one
>>>since Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from
>>>a kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it.
>>>I do remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>>>
>>>What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
>>
>>This has been addressed in a number of places online. Some places to read:
>>
>>http://www.cariboo.bc.ca/hsafety/procedures/list/tablesaw.html
>>http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=317
>>
>>You may wish to consider looking at some books at the library as well.
>>
>>Finally, you might consider the "Sawstop" saw. It costs more, but will
>>bring the saw to a stop very quickly if the blade touches part of your
>>body. There are some caveats though, a google search in this newsgroup
>>will give some discussion threads.
>>
>>Chris
>
>
> Thanks, I did some looking and turned mostly the information that is in the
> first link you gave, information that anyone with common sense should know.
> I am looking for more specific information about what can cause kickbacks
> and obviously how to prevent them.
>
>
Grab one of the taunton books from your local library and read up a bit.
kickback can occur when a piece is wedged between the blade and the
fence. or it can occur as the density of the wood changes which i think
happens when wood is not fully aclimated to its new environment. I
think its more likely in solid wood than plywood.
But hey im new too.
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
In article <[email protected]>, "brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Use a splitter. I'm not currently using one since the one that came
>with the saw was so bad that I felt it was more dangerous. Boards kept
>hanging up on it. I have a new splitter that I just bought, but havn't
>put on yet.
>
>Stand to the side of the workpiece so that if it does go, it goes past
>you instead of in to you. This may not always be feasible, but when
>cutting skinny stuff, it should keep you from getting impaled.
>
>Similarly, have extra people in the shop not stand behind you while you
>make a cut.
>
>Don't cut thin stuff. In other words, if you have a 24" wide board and
>you need to cut 1" off, put the remaining 23" between the fence and
>blade while letting the 1" fall off. If you put the 1" between the
>fence and blade, that's a kickback hazzard.
>
>Don't reach behind a running saw blade to get a piece you just cut. If
>you bump the loose piece, it can catch the blade and force your hand
>into the blade on the way toward you.
>
>Always wear eye protection. I think it's far more likely that you'll
>have a little cutoff piece propelled back at you than the entire
>workpiece.
>
>Use a zero-clearance throat plate. If the opening is too big, the
>little pieces can cat caught and thrown back.
>
>If it's taking too much force to cut, stop.
>
>If it feels wrong, stop.
>
>Dado blades add to the danger so be extra careful when using them.
>
>Board buddies or a power feeder probably help the situation a lot.
>
>I'm sure other people can suggest other things.
All good advice, and I'll add one more to your "wear eye protection": there
are other things on your face besides your eyes that need protection, e.g.
your nose and your teeth. That's one reason I *always* wear a full face shield
when using any of my big power tools. Other reasons are:
- it's more comfortable than goggles
- it's easier to put on
- it doesn't fog up, ever
- it fits easily over my prescription eyeglasses, much better than goggles.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
I have an anti kickback device my Dad gave me several years ago it's from
Leichtung (spelling) workshops. I dont remember the actual name of the
device but its similar to the "board buddies" I have been using these
devices for about 10 years and have never (knock on wood) had a kickback
either. The device has a wheel which can be set up to rotate freely (no
kickback but fence pressure) or to rotate in 1 direction only so you get
kickback protection in addition to fence pressure..
they run about $50 for a pair. You will usually need to mount them on on an
auxillary fence on top of your saw fence, owever, its not that big of a
project.
I have mine on a Craftsman saw and my Dad had his on a Powermatic with a
Beismeyer fence and the setup was not too bad with either.
Being a Physical Therapist I also am very dependant on my hands so a kick
back could make for a "bad day"
Hopefully this helped you with your decision making.
Mike Kempke
"Jeff Heyen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 14:57:03 -0500, "Locutus" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one
>>>>since
>>>>Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
>>>>kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it.
>>>>I do
>>>>remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>>>>
>>>>What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
>>>>As
>>>>a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Manufacturers of table saws are so gun shy of lawsuits that might
>>> result from"failure to warn" or "failure to guard" that it would
>>> surprise me if you didn't have pages of both general and specific
>>> warning information in your instruction manual when you purchase your
>>> saw. Read it.
>>>
>>> Frank
>>
>> Thanks for the smug answer, but I was looking for more personal
>> experiences and opinions that you can't get from manual.
>>
>> Thanks to everyone who took the time to share your thoughts and
>> experiences.
>>
> As has been said here, the two most important words I can give you are:
>
> Board Buddies - http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/main/308
>
> I've been using them for over twenty years and never had a kick back. An
> added
> side benefit is the design of the board buddies keep your board flush to
> the rip
> fence, resulting in a truer cut.
>
> Jeff
>
>
"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> >What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
>> >As
>>>a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>>
>> I'm a develoepr also. The table saw scares the daylights out of me.
>> I'm considering getting a full face shield for the table saw just in
>> case of a kickback.
>>
>> I experienced a kickback from my benchtop saw when I had it. It was a
>> piece of laminate floor maybe 12" long, 6" wide, and 1/4" thick. I'm
>> still not quite sure of the chain of events. The entire experience was
>> over in a fraction of a second. The board hit me low in the chest. It
>> caused a shallow gash that I still have a scar from. It was enough to
>> cause me to bleed, but did nothing to my shirt. After hitting me, the
>> board came up and smacked me in the face. It was enough force that it
>> felt like someone was pushing the board in my face. No injuries there,
>> but it sure felt strange.
>>
>> Now I have a 1.5hp contractor's saw. I haven't had any kickback on it
>> yet. I think the day is coming though. Here's what I do:
>>
>> Use a splitter. I'm not currently using one since the one that came
>> with the saw was so bad that I felt it was more dangerous. Boards kept
>> hanging up on it. I have a new splitter that I just bought, but havn't
>> put on yet.
>>
>> Stand to the side of the workpiece so that if it does go, it goes past
>> you instead of in to you. This may not always be feasible, but when
>> cutting skinny stuff, it should keep you from getting impaled.
>>
>> Similarly, have extra people in the shop not stand behind you while you
>> make a cut.
>>
>> Don't cut thin stuff. In other words, if you have a 24" wide board and
>> you need to cut 1" off, put the remaining 23" between the fence and
>> blade while letting the 1" fall off. If you put the 1" between the
>> fence and blade, that's a kickback hazzard.
>>
>> Don't reach behind a running saw blade to get a piece you just cut. If
>> you bump the loose piece, it can catch the blade and force your hand
>> into the blade on the way toward you.
>>
>> Always wear eye protection. I think it's far more likely that you'll
>> have a little cutoff piece propelled back at you than the entire
>> workpiece.
>>
>> Use a zero-clearance throat plate. If the opening is too big, the
>> little pieces can cat caught and thrown back.
>>
>> If it's taking too much force to cut, stop.
>>
>> If it feels wrong, stop.
>>
>> Dado blades add to the danger so be extra careful when using them.
>>
>> Board buddies or a power feeder probably help the situation a lot.
>>
>> I'm sure other people can suggest other things.
>>
>> brian
>>
>
> Brian, thanks for the exccellent reply, this kind of info is what I was
> looking for.
>
Only one thing to add. Put your "other" hand behind your back. This will
help stop the impulse to try to grab if something goes wrong.
"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 14:57:03 -0500, "Locutus" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one
>>>since
>>>Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
>>>kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I
>>>do
>>>remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>>>
>>>What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw?
>>>As
>>>a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>>>
>>
>>
>> Manufacturers of table saws are so gun shy of lawsuits that might
>> result from"failure to warn" or "failure to guard" that it would
>> surprise me if you didn't have pages of both general and specific
>> warning information in your instruction manual when you purchase your
>> saw. Read it.
>>
>> Frank
>
> Thanks for the smug answer, but I was looking for more personal
> experiences and opinions that you can't get from manual.
>
> Thanks to everyone who took the time to share your thoughts and
> experiences.
>
As has been said here, the two most important words I can give you are:
Board Buddies - http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/main/308
I've been using them for over twenty years and never had a kick back. An
added
side benefit is the design of the board buddies keep your board flush to the
rip
fence, resulting in a truer cut.
Jeff
On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 14:57:03 -0500, "Locutus" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
>Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
>kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I do
>remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
>What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw? As
>a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>
Manufacturers of table saws are so gun shy of lawsuits that might
result from"failure to warn" or "failure to guard" that it would
surprise me if you didn't have pages of both general and specific
warning information in your instruction manual when you purchase your
saw. Read it.
Frank
In article <[email protected]>, "brianlanning" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Use a splitter. I'm not currently using one since the one that came
>with the saw was so bad that I felt it was more dangerous. Boards kept
>hanging up on it.
Proper cure for that problem was not to remove the splitter, but to adjust it
so that boards would not hang up.
>I have a new splitter that I just bought, but havn't
>put on yet.
Put it on before you use the saw again. Using a TS without a splitter is just
asking for trouble.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
In article <[email protected]>, "Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Jim, thanks for the advice. I can't imagine ripping stock with a bandsaw?
Ripping with a bandsaw is actually a lot easier than with a table saw, and
much safer too. You just have to clean up the edge afterward, either with a
jointer or a hand plane.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 14:57:03 -0500, "Locutus" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hey all, going to be buying a table saw soon, and I haven't used one since
>Highschool woodshop. I remember getting some stinging fingers from a
>kickback, but it's been so long I don't really remember what caused it. I do
>remember that using the table saw after that was quite intimidating.
>
>What are the main things I need to be careful of when using a table saw? As
>a software engineer, my fingers are important to me. :)
>
I'm a software person too and still have all ten fingers. It's
important to read about table saw safety and there are several rules
to follow. Off the top of my head are these:
Wear safety glasses.
Work with a clear mind.
Use featherboards properly.
Have several types of push sticks and blocks nearby.
Use a splitter and guard.
Tune up the saw.
Use a DC, this protects your health and improves safety.
Have plenty of lighting.
Before you turn on the saw, stop a moment, and think if there is a way
to make the cut more safely (I use this method ALL the time).
A table saw is actually very safe when used properly. It is probably
my most important power tool in the shop.