A little Milk Paint help please

>Making a new table or getting a new daughter will not be
>considered <grin>
>
>Jerry


I know a guy who knows a guy who knows Louie the Lip and his second
cousin Tommy TwoToes. They can straighten this whole problem out very
quietly and make sure it never comes back. You want I should give
them a call? Might be cheaper and easier than getting a new kid.

P

On Sep 2, 8:43=A0am, A Lurker <[email protected]> wrote:

> I was afraid you were going to say that! FYI, first coat of BLO was light
> and second built up heavier. It's really soaked in and although dry, your
> right, it's not cured. =A0I tried getting some off with rubbing with pain=
t
> thinner and very little is coming off.

BLO is strange stuff sometimes. Thinner won't budge once it starts to
set up, but the other solvents work fine. I would move up the ladder
to "hotter" solvents. My choice would be lacquer thinner and some
abrasive pads IF I were just going to take the BLO off. Don't use
rags or steel wool (this is the voice of experience) as they will
dissolve into the syrup of resolvated BLO and get lint and particles
in every little crevice.

>Three of the four apron pieces can
> be run through the planer to get all finish off. The top, shelf, and
> front will have to be hand sanded, since they won't fit though the
> planer. The turned legs will have to be re-turned. None of this will be
> fun, but you are probably correct. Any chemical stripper suggestions to
> get the BLO off as an option?

I would go down to the big box store by you and get some of their
chemical stripper. Since this is a new project, I would be that picky
about brands as just about any of them should eat the finish off well
since it is still green. I have personally had the best luck with the
Kleen Strip line of removers.

I have personally NEVER had any kind of luck with the citrus or soy
strippers, but your luck may be different. Don't forget your gloves,
protection for eyes and nose, and a big place to work so you won't get
any on you.

I wouldn't re-turn anything. The stripper will get off what you
need. If you can get your project apart, depending on the complexity
of the profile on the legs it might be easier to sand them on the
lathe, and certainly easier to strip of you can easily handle all
sides. The returning would be up to you.

> By the way, I've used this finish with a light coat of Briwax on a
> Windsor stool that I made a few years ago and it has worn like iron in
> kitchen use with spills and all.

Remember that the things that make your finish wear resistant are the
things that will make your project "new finish" resistant as well.
Briwax is well known for its high quality blend of waxes. Your
particular blend may have a few different things in it, but if you
used the finishing wax, it will have a high carnauba wax content.
This component is very successful at repelling new finishes.

It is no match for Kleen Strip and its related solvent based strippers
though.

Personally, I would strip it, sand it, wash it with a good solvent,
let it dry overnight and start again.

Robert

Have you seen:

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/unknownsurface.html

and

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/remover.html



A Lurker wrote:
> My daughter requested a nightstand/endtable for her new studio apartment.
> After agreeing on dimensions 21"square she changed her mind, unsure if it
> would fit. The table with a drawer and lower shelf was already, cut, legs
> turned, morticed, edge routed, drawer dovetailed, dry assembled, just not
> glued. Rather than stop altogether to await new measurements, I asked for
> a color choice. The table is all poplar since I knew it was to be
> painted. I talked her out of Home Depot latex and she chose pumpkin
> colored milk paint. So two coats of milk paint and two coats of BLO were
> applied.
>
> Now some good news and some bad news. A change in purchase of a couch.
> The table will now fit with no modification, BUT the pumpkin color really
> sucks with the new couch. I must now recolor. Looking at a pale green.
>
> I am not sure about milk paint adhesion and covering over the darker
> pumpkin and two coats of BLO (linseed oil). I'm thinking of shooting the
> parts with a coat of Zinser BIN (shelac based primer) and then proceding
> with 2 coats of light green milk paint, more BLO, and wax top coat. This
> is certainly a lot of layers on the wood.
>
> Other options include just milk paint over the BLO or since the table is
> not assembled, sanding all down, and returning the legs slightly to get
> the milk paint off. I will be calling the Milk Paint manufacturer
> tomorrow for their take, but suggestions from this group would be
> appreciated. Making a new table or getting a new daughter will not be
> considered <grin>
>
> Jerry

"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in news:a7177148-
[email protected]:

> Just my opinion, so take it for exactly what you get from it.
>
> I would be inclined to strip it off and start again. When I am
> finishing, I have had all manner of results with BLO as a finish. Now
> if you put a couple of coats on the paint and left it, you would
> probably be fine with a simple prime and recolor.
>
> But the BLO is a different part of the equation. While it may be dry
> to the touch, it may take a few weeks (as in 4 - 6) to cure out. You
> say you put on a couple of coats - two heavy ones? Two light ones?
>
> With humidity, temps, brand of BLO etc., being factors, the longer you
> wait to recoat the better. I have put primer/sealer over BLO in an
> effort to stabilize it, and failed miserably, both times. It simply
> leached slowly through my primer.
>
> I also see that on your second attempt, you will be putting wax on the
> finish. (Wax on painted furniture?) Anyway, if you waxed the first
> attempt as well, it isn't only silicones that you will contend with to
> get your finish right.
>
> You will also have to contend (depending on the quality of the wax)
> with just how much waxy resin is left behind when you buff off. Paint/
> primer doesn't stick to wax well, no matter how you try to sand it
> off.
>
> Stripping is the only way to make sure you do it one more time. If
> you are like me, I would be undone if the finish didn't look right or
> the pigments/BLO leached through my finish. I would then have to
> start from square one and do it all over again anyway.
>
> Robert
>

I was afraid you were going to say that! FYI, first coat of BLO was light
and second built up heavier. It's really soaked in and although dry, your
right, it's not cured. I tried getting some off with rubbing with paint
thinner and very little is coming off. Three of the four apron pieces can
be run through the planer to get all finish off. The top, shelf, and
front will have to be hand sanded, since they won't fit though the
planer. The turned legs will have to be re-turned. None of this will be
fun, but you are probably correct. Any chemical stripper suggestions to
get the BLO off as an option?

By the way, I've used this finish with a light coat of Briwax on a
Windsor stool that I made a few years ago and it has worn like iron in
kitchen use with spills and all.

Thanks

Jerry

Just my opinion, so take it for exactly what you get from it.

I would be inclined to strip it off and start again. When I am
finishing, I have had all manner of results with BLO as a finish. Now
if you put a couple of coats on the paint and left it, you would
probably be fine with a simple prime and recolor.

But the BLO is a different part of the equation. While it may be dry
to the touch, it may take a few weeks (as in 4 - 6) to cure out. You
say you put on a couple of coats - two heavy ones? Two light ones?

With humidity, temps, brand of BLO etc., being factors, the longer you
wait to recoat the better. I have put primer/sealer over BLO in an
effort to stabilize it, and failed miserably, both times. It simply
leached slowly through my primer.

I also see that on your second attempt, you will be putting wax on the
finish. (Wax on painted furniture?) Anyway, if you waxed the first
attempt as well, it isn't only silicones that you will contend with to
get your finish right.

You will also have to contend (depending on the quality of the wax)
with just how much waxy resin is left behind when you buff off. Paint/
primer doesn't stick to wax well, no matter how you try to sand it
off.

Stripping is the only way to make sure you do it one more time. If
you are like me, I would be undone if the finish didn't look right or
the pigments/BLO leached through my finish. I would then have to
start from square one and do it all over again anyway.

Robert

On Mon, 01 Sep 2008 13:09:14 -0500, A Lurker wrote:

> I am not sure about milk paint adhesion and covering over the darker
> pumpkin and two coats of BLO (linseed oil). I'm thinking of shooting the
> parts with a coat of Zinser BIN (shelac based primer) and then proceding
> with 2 coats of light green milk paint, more BLO, and wax top coat. This
> is certainly a lot of layers on the wood.

The shellac should do the trick. The casein alkali (or is it acid) might
work OK without it, but why take the chance?