Re: Lew's Drill Bit Post - Speaking of Drill Bits and Possible Heads-Up For Karl & Leon

Sonny <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I have lots of drill bits that need sharpening. I've often thought
> to get a drill bit sharpener. This idea has, again, recently come to
> the fore, as per discovering two sharpeners up for auction, in
> Houston. I'm not sure I want to trouble my cousins for pick-up
> assistance, should I decide to bid and win. Have to wait and see how
> the bidding goes, as to, if I bid.
>
> Not sure if Karl or Leon would be interested in a sharpener, but
> thought to bring this sale to their attention, since it's more
> convenient for them. If Karl or Leon would have an interest, I'd pass
> on bidding against them.
> http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=9237752&convertTo=
> USD
>
> If not us, would either Karl or Leon have a machinist/hobbyist friend
> that might be interested in these sharpeners? Give them this auction
> info.
>
> I contacted Darex about their SN 110 sharpener. Darex said that
> sharpener (the olive green one) is discontinued and replacement parts
> (except for the stones) are no longer available. The model is an M3
> model, vintage 1983-2001. The auction write-up says it was funtional,
> when removed from service, but ones never knows its exact condition,
> unless inspected & tested. Darex said its value is about $700, if in
> good working order.
>
> The Lisle is worth about $700, also, if in good working condition, as
> per my online research. I don't know if its a discontinued model or
> whether parts are still available.
>
> I'm not sure if sharpening my bits is more feasible than buying new.
> I do a poor job sharpening, by hand. I don't suppose either of those
> sharpeners will sharpen auger or brad point bits.
>
> Do any of you have/use a sharpener, hand sharpen or buy new, when need
> be? I'm trying to judge whether a sharpener would be best for me. I
> suppose a machinist would have more use for this kind of dedicated
> sharpener, than a woodworker, so it may be impractical for me.
>
> Sonny

I learned how to sharpen bits freehand on a grinder. It's not really
freehand, it's using the parts of the grinder to act as various rests and
stops. I'm only at the beginning stages of this, which means that given
enough bit I can make a sharp one. It's worth it, though, when you get
one that's shaped exactly how it needs to be to cut through the material.

I've heard good and bad things about the drill doctor series of
sharpeners. For woodworking, they'll probably do just fine.

There's also jigs for bench grinders, but I don't have any experience to
offer there.

Even if you do buy new bits, knowing how to sharpen a bit might just bail
you out when you break the last one after the store's closed.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Somebody wrote:

>> I just hit mine on my 6" grinder. As best as I know - a lot
>> cheaper
>> than a dedicated machine.
------------------------------------------------------
Somebody else wrote:

> BTW - sharpening a bit can be equally as easy by hitting it on a
> belt sander if one does not own a bench grinder. Still - cheaper
> and IMHO, better than buying one of the sharpening tools.
----------------------------------------------------------
A 1" x 40", 80 grit belt was my go to sharpening device.

Drill bits, shears for cutting fiber glass, chisels, pry bars, etc.

OTOH, precision cutting tools never got close to that puppy.

The bench grinder was equipped with wire wheels to get epoxy
crap off C-Clamps, etc.


Lew

On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 11:11:35 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 3/20/2015 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 10:22:10 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Thanks for the heads up but I already have a Drill DR. It works great=
!
> >> No sharpener that I know of sharpens a brad point yet...
> >
> > ...snip...
> >
> > What about the JOOLTOOL? I have no experience or direct knowledge relat=
ed to this tool, but it seems pretty neat.
>=20
> I have seen her and her tool at trade shows and have not yet been=20
> inspired to buy one. You can sharpen brad points with it but I would=20
> like to see how well the bit works after sharpening. =20

...snip...

The next time you and Anie are hobnopping at a trade show, try this:

1 - Before you leave home, grab a beat up brad point bit. Oh, wait, you pro=
bably don't have a beat up brad point bit. ;-) OK, go to the borg, buy a br=
ad point bit and beat it up.
2 - At the trade show, go to a tool booth and borrow a cordless drill (or b=
ring your own)
3 - Go to a wood booth and grab some samples of various types of wood (or b=
ring your own)
4 - Bring everything to Anie, have her sharpen your bit (!) and then test i=
t.

If Anie is willing to let you do that, that will be the first indication th=
at she is confident in her product. If she flat out refuses, well, we know =
what that could indicate. Assuming she lets you do that, you'll have your a=
nswer as to whether or not the JOOLTOOL (or the operator) is any good at sh=
arpening brad point bits.

I know you like your Colt bits, but you would doing the the rest of a huge =
service. We all thank you for your efforts. ;-)

I should learn how to better sharpen, by hand, on a grinding wheel. I'm getting more lazy, these days, looking for the easiest way out of doing work, in less time. The Drill Dr option looks promising, probably for most of my dull bits.

Sonny

On 3/20/2015 1:08 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> What do you sharpen your bit's with? Do you need a grinder and maybe
>>> a special wheel? I wonder how that compares in price to a machine
>>> dedicated to sharpening bits. ;~)
>>
>> I just hit mine on my 6" grinder. As best as I know - a lot cheaper
>> than a dedicated machine.
>
> BTW - sharpening a bit can be equally as easy by hitting it on a belt sander
> if one does not own a bench grinder. Still - cheaper and IMHO, better than
> buying one of the sharpening tools.
>


You know if the tool does not have some hint of green on it I am not
interested. ;~)

On 3/20/2015 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 10:22:10 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> Thanks for the heads up but I already have a Drill DR. It works great!
>> No sharpener that I know of sharpens a brad point yet...
>
> ...snip...
>
> What about the JOOLTOOL? I have no experience or direct knowledge related to this tool, but it seems pretty neat.

I have seen her and her tool at trade shows and have not yet been
inspired to buy one. You can sharpen brad points with it but I would
like to see how well the bit works after sharpening. There is a world
of difference in how different brad point bits cut and how they are
sharpened makes a big difference. If you don't evenly grind at precise
angles you might as well be using a file.
Colt brand 5 star brad point bits, in most all but the smallest, cut so
well that you don't need a backer board to drill through and it is
difficult to tell which side the bit exited.



>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wwn4CS74KnQ
>
> That video, as well as many others, can be found here, under "Videos and Support".
>
> (I'd post the link that takes you directly to the videos page, but then you wouldn't get to meet Anie.)
>
> http://jooltool.com/
>
> Jooltool has a master's kit for $610, but Amazon carries a stripped-down(?) kit for $399.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/JoolTool-JTX-PK-Polishing-Kit/dp/B00HCBFXUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426861747&sr=8-1&keywords=jool+tool
>

My new Drill Dr. was about 1/3 the price of the entry level Jooltool and
it does precisely sharpen regular twist bits with their multi
curve/angle. While the Drill Dr is pricey $75~$150 considering it only
sharpens two types of bits, it does do a factory quality job.

On 3/20/2015 12:38 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> What do you sharpen your bit's with? Do you need a grinder and maybe
>> a special wheel? I wonder how that compares in price to a machine
>> dedicated to sharpening bits. ;~)
>
> I just hit mine on my 6" grinder. As best as I know - a lot cheaper than a
> dedicated machine.
>

I think you might save a little but do you use the standard rough wheels
that come on the grinder vs. a finer sharpening wheel?

And inexpensive Drill Doctor shipped from Amazon is $50.

Sonny <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Do any of you have/use a sharpener, hand sharpen or buy new, when need
> be? I'm trying to judge whether a sharpener would be best for me. I
> suppose a machinist would have more use for this kind of dedicated
> sharpener, than a woodworker, so it may be impractical for me.

I have a Drill Doctor. I use it rarely. In my experience,
it does not sharpen bits to "like-new", altho they are
reasonably sharp. It does not work on very small bits,
and I can hand-sharpen just as well on bits of 1/4" or
bigger, so it has limited use.

The sharpeners you're looking at are in a completely
different class, tho. I suspect they will sharpen to
like-new condition, and will handle most any size bit.

John

On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 10:22:10 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

>
> Thanks for the heads up but I already have a Drill DR. It works great!
> No sharpener that I know of sharpens a brad point yet...

...snip...

What about the JOOLTOOL? I have no experience or direct knowledge related to this tool, but it seems pretty neat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wwn4CS74KnQ

That video, as well as many others, can be found here, under "Videos and Support".

(I'd post the link that takes you directly to the videos page, but then you wouldn't get to meet Anie.)

http://jooltool.com/

Jooltool has a master's kit for $610, but Amazon carries a stripped-down(?) kit for $399.

http://www.amazon.com/JoolTool-JTX-PK-Polishing-Kit/dp/B00HCBFXUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426861747&sr=8-1&keywords=jool+tool

Leon wrote:
> On 3/20/2015 7:11 AM, Sonny wrote:
>> I have lots of drill bits that need sharpening. I've often thought
>> to get a drill bit sharpener. This idea has, again, recently come
>> to the fore, as per discovering two sharpeners up for auction, in
>> Houston. I'm not sure I want to trouble my cousins for pick-up
>> assistance, should I decide to bid and win. Have to wait and see
>> how the bidding goes, as to, if I bid.
>>
>> Not sure if Karl or Leon would be interested in a sharpener, but
>> thought to bring this sale to their attention, since it's more
>> convenient for them. If Karl or Leon would have an interest, I'd
>> pass on bidding against them.
>> http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=9237752&convertTo=USD
>>
>> If not us, would either Karl or Leon have a machinist/hobbyist
>> friend that might be interested in these sharpeners? Give them this
>> auction info.
>>
>> I contacted Darex about their SN 110 sharpener. Darex said that
>> sharpener (the olive green one) is discontinued and replacement parts
>> (except for the stones) are no longer available. The model is an M3
>> model, vintage 1983-2001. The auction write-up says it was
>> funtional, when removed from service, but ones never knows its exact
>> condition, unless inspected & tested. Darex said its value is about
>> $700, if in good working order.
>>
>> The Lisle is worth about $700, also, if in good working condition, as
>> per my online research. I don't know if its a discontinued model or
>> whether parts are still available.
>>
>> I'm not sure if sharpening my bits is more feasible than buying new.
>> I do a poor job sharpening, by hand. I don't suppose either of
>> those sharpeners will sharpen auger or brad point bits.
>>
>> Do any of you have/use a sharpener, hand sharpen or buy new, when
>> need be? I'm trying to judge whether a sharpener would be best for
>> me. I suppose a machinist would have more use for this kind of
>> dedicated sharpener, than a woodworker, so it may be impractical for
>> me.
>>
>> Sonny
>>
>
>
>
> Thanks for the heads up but I already have a Drill DR. It works great!
> No sharpener that I know of sharpens a brad point yet but IIRC Drill
> Dr has one that does spades.
> I don't use it often, I mostly use Forstner and brad point. BUT because
> you typically will drill into steel with the regular bits resharpening
> them is quick and convenient. I don't think you will wear the Drill Dr
> out considering how quickly it will resharpen a bit.
>
> IIRC Darex makes the Drill DR.
>
> http://www.drilldoctor.com/drill-sharpeners-and-accessories/drill-sharpeners.html
>
I bought a Drill Dr. 5 or 6 years ago and sharpened a bucket full of
bits and haven't used it since. I don't do a lot of drilling, but it
probably paid for itself in one day.

--
 GW Ross 

 People who live in stone houses 
 shouldn't throw glasses. 

On 3/20/2015 7:11 AM, Sonny wrote:
> I have lots of drill bits that need sharpening. I've often thought
> to get a drill bit sharpener. This idea has, again, recently come
> to the fore, as per discovering two sharpeners up for auction, in
> Houston. I'm not sure I want to trouble my cousins for pick-up
> assistance, should I decide to bid and win. Have to wait and see
> how the bidding goes, as to, if I bid.
>
> Not sure if Karl or Leon would be interested in a sharpener, but
> thought to bring this sale to their attention, since it's more
> convenient for them. If Karl or Leon would have an interest, I'd
> pass on bidding against them.
> http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=9237752&convertTo=USD
>
> If not us, would either Karl or Leon have a machinist/hobbyist
> friend that might be interested in these sharpeners? Give them this
> auction info.
>
> I contacted Darex about their SN 110 sharpener. Darex said that
> sharpener (the olive green one) is discontinued and replacement parts
> (except for the stones) are no longer available. The model is an M3
> model, vintage 1983-2001. The auction write-up says it was
> funtional, when removed from service, but ones never knows its exact
> condition, unless inspected & tested. Darex said its value is about
> $700, if in good working order.
>
> The Lisle is worth about $700, also, if in good working condition, as
> per my online research. I don't know if its a discontinued model or
> whether parts are still available.
>
> I'm not sure if sharpening my bits is more feasible than buying new.
> I do a poor job sharpening, by hand. I don't suppose either of
> those sharpeners will sharpen auger or brad point bits.
>
> Do any of you have/use a sharpener, hand sharpen or buy new, when
> need be? I'm trying to judge whether a sharpener would be best for
> me. I suppose a machinist would have more use for this kind of
> dedicated sharpener, than a woodworker, so it may be impractical for
> me.
>
> Sonny
>



Thanks for the heads up but I already have a Drill DR. It works great!
No sharpener that I know of sharpens a brad point yet but IIRC Drill
Dr has one that does spades.
I don't use it often, I mostly use Forstner and brad point. BUT because
you typically will drill into steel with the regular bits resharpening
them is quick and convenient. I don't think you will wear the Drill Dr
out considering how quickly it will resharpen a bit.

IIRC Darex makes the Drill DR.

http://www.drilldoctor.com/drill-sharpeners-and-accessories/drill-sharpeners.html

DerbyDad03 wrote:

>
> The next time you and Anie are hobnopping at a trade show, try this:
>
> 1 - Before you leave home, grab a beat up brad point bit. Oh, wait,
> you probably don't have a beat up brad point bit. ;-) OK, go to the
> borg, buy a brad point bit and beat it up.
> 2 - At the trade show, go to a tool booth and borrow a cordless drill
> (or bring your own)
> 3 - Go to a wood booth and grab some samples of various types of wood
> (or bring your own)
> 4 - Bring everything to Anie, have her sharpen your bit (!) and then
> test it.
>
> If Anie is willing to let you do that, that will be the first
> indication that she is confident in her product. If she flat out
> refuses, well, we know what that could indicate. Assuming she lets
> you do that, you'll have your answer as to whether or not the
> JOOLTOOL (or the operator) is any good at sharpening brad point bits.
>
> I know you like your Colt bits, but you would doing the the rest of a
> huge service. We all thank you for your efforts. ;-)

That's a good plan but I still cannot understand why people here keep
focusing on drill bit sharpeners. Sharpening a drill bit on a grinding
wheel is really a very simple thing once you are shown, or develop the
technique. It might be worth the effort for the less confident members, to
go to a machine shop nearby and have them show you how to do it. You'll be
surprised at how simple the technique is and with just a little practice,
you can master it. Way less money than spending what they get for these
machines - and equally as good. It takes me under 15 seconds to sharpen a
bit. I've taken broken bits and put them back into service in less than one
minute. Anyone can do it.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

"Sonny" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

>Do any of you have/use a sharpener, hand sharpen or buy new, when need be?
>I'm trying to judge whether a >sharpener would be best for me. I suppose
>a machinist would have more use for this kind of dedicated >sharpener, than
>a woodworker, so it may be impractical for me.

I have and use a Drill Doctor 500X. It works great on standard twist drills
with either 118 or 135 degree point angles, either HSS or exotics such as
carbide, cobalt and TIN-coated, plus masonry bits. You can do split-points,
too. A handy feature is that you can adjust how aggressive the grind is, so
that if all you want to do is freshen up a bit you can do it with relatively
little metal being taken off, or make it more aggressive for an extremely
dull bit or for one whose point angle you want to change. Sharpening is
quick and easy and consistent, once you are practiced at loading the bit
into the holder. Watch the video demo on the web site to see how it works.

The manufacturer claims that it sharpens bits from 3/32" to 1/2", but I use
it only on bits larger than 1/8" since it's hard to keep from grinding a
negative rake angle at those smaller sizes. When I dull a small bit I just
throw it away and replace it.

What it won't do is brad-point bits. The way I handle that is to have two
sets - one of the highest quality I can afford, which I treat very
carefully, and another inexpensive set that I use in less demanding
circumstances or when there's any risk of damaging a point.

Amazon has it for $99.99. The 750X is the same except that it goes up to
3/4".

I have no financial interest in the company - I just like the tool.

Tom

Leon wrote:

>
> What do you sharpen your bit's with? Do you need a grinder and maybe
> a special wheel? I wonder how that compares in price to a machine
> dedicated to sharpening bits. ;~)

I just hit mine on my 6" grinder. As best as I know - a lot cheaper than a
dedicated machine.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> What do you sharpen your bit's with? Do you need a grinder and maybe
>> a special wheel? I wonder how that compares in price to a machine
>> dedicated to sharpening bits. ;~)
>
> I just hit mine on my 6" grinder. As best as I know - a lot cheaper
> than a dedicated machine.

BTW - sharpening a bit can be equally as easy by hitting it on a belt sander
if one does not own a bench grinder. Still - cheaper and IMHO, better than
buying one of the sharpening tools.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Leon wrote:
> On 3/20/2015 12:38 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> What do you sharpen your bit's with? Do you need a grinder and
>>> maybe a special wheel? I wonder how that compares in price to a
>>> machine dedicated to sharpening bits. ;~)
>>
>> I just hit mine on my 6" grinder. As best as I know - a lot cheaper
>> than a dedicated machine.
>>
>
> I think you might save a little but do you use the standard rough
> wheels that come on the grinder vs. a finer sharpening wheel?
>
> And inexpensive Drill Doctor shipped from Amazon is $50.

Yeah - I use the standard wheel. But you have to remember that I use that
grinder for a lot of other uses besides just sharpening drill bits. The
cost to me for sharpening bits is just pennies.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

That might do ok on some. Let me mention what I did. I have one of the
plastic units and it is a 3/4" size. I had a 3/4" drill that was
chipped. Useless. I ground it on the unit - and cleaned up the drill
so it was safe to use. Then I had ground flats on it - as the cone
grind wasn't handy - as it touched metal at all times. But preforming
drills is good. Splitting points is good. Has done more good than bad
for me.

Martin

On 3/20/2015 7:11 AM, Sonny wrote:
> I have lots of drill bits that need sharpening. I've often thought to get a drill bit sharpener. This idea has, again, recently come to the fore, as per discovering two sharpeners up for auction, in Houston. I'm not sure I want to trouble my cousins for pick-up assistance, should I decide to bid and win. Have to wait and see how the bidding goes, as to, if I bid.
>
> Not sure if Karl or Leon would be interested in a sharpener, but thought to bring this sale to their attention, since it's more convenient for them. If Karl or Leon would have an interest, I'd pass on bidding against them.
> http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=9237752&convertTo=USD
>
> If not us, would either Karl or Leon have a machinist/hobbyist friend that might be interested in these sharpeners? Give them this auction info.
>
> I contacted Darex about their SN 110 sharpener. Darex said that sharpener (the olive green one) is discontinued and replacement parts (except for the stones) are no longer available. The model is an M3 model, vintage 1983-2001. The auction write-up says it was funtional, when removed from service, but ones never knows its exact condition, unless inspected & tested. Darex said its value is about $700, if in good working order.
>
> The Lisle is worth about $700, also, if in good working condition, as per my online research. I don't know if its a discontinued model or whether parts are still available.
>
> I'm not sure if sharpening my bits is more feasible than buying new. I do a poor job sharpening, by hand. I don't suppose either of those sharpeners will sharpen auger or brad point bits.
>
> Do any of you have/use a sharpener, hand sharpen or buy new, when need be? I'm trying to judge whether a sharpener would be best for me. I suppose a machinist would have more use for this kind of dedicated sharpener, than a woodworker, so it may be impractical for me.
>
> Sonny
>

On 3/20/2015 11:42 AM, tdacon wrote:
>
Snip


>
> What it won't do is brad-point bits. The way I handle that is to have
> two sets - one of the highest quality I can afford, which I treat very
> carefully, and another inexpensive set that I use in less demanding
> circumstances or when there's any risk of damaging a point.

LOL, that is me. I just about keep my Colt 5 star bits under lock and
key. I have several other sets that get used for questionable material
of if there is the slightest possibility I might hit a screw.



>
> Amazon has it for $99.99. The 750X is the same except that it goes up to
> 3/4".
>
> I have no financial interest in the company - I just like the tool.
>
> Tom
>

On 3/20/2015 10:34 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 11:11:35 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/20/2015 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 10:22:10 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the heads up but I already have a Drill DR. It works great!
>>>> No sharpener that I know of sharpens a brad point yet...
>>>
>>> ...snip...
>>>
>>> What about the JOOLTOOL? I have no experience or direct knowledge related to this tool, but it seems pretty neat.
>>
>> I have seen her and her tool at trade shows and have not yet been
>> inspired to buy one. You can sharpen brad points with it but I would
>> like to see how well the bit works after sharpening.
>
> ...snip...
>
> The next time you and Anie are hobnopping at a trade show, try this:
>
> 1 - Before you leave home, grab a beat up brad point bit. Oh, wait, you probably don't have a beat up brad point bit. ;-) OK, go to the borg, buy a brad point bit and beat it up.
> 2 - At the trade show, go to a tool booth and borrow a cordless drill (or bring your own)
> 3 - Go to a wood booth and grab some samples of various types of wood (or bring your own)
> 4 - Bring everything to Anie, have her sharpen your bit (!) and then test it.
>
> If Anie is willing to let you do that, that will be the first indication that she is confident in her product. If she flat out refuses, well, we know what that could indicate. Assuming she lets you do that, you'll have your answer as to whether or not the JOOLTOOL (or the operator) is any good at sharpening brad point bits.
>
> I know you like your Colt bits, but you would doing the the rest of a huge service. We all thank you for your efforts. ;-)
>
Unfortunately Anie probably does not come with the tool.... She most
likely spends way more hours using her tool than any of us would.

On 3/20/2015 11:19 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Sonny <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Do any of you have/use a sharpener, hand sharpen or buy new, when need
>> be? I'm trying to judge whether a sharpener would be best for me. I
>> suppose a machinist would have more use for this kind of dedicated
>> sharpener, than a woodworker, so it may be impractical for me.
>
> I have a Drill Doctor. I use it rarely. In my experience,
> it does not sharpen bits to "like-new", altho they are
> reasonably sharp. It does not work on very small bits,
> and I can hand-sharpen just as well on bits of 1/4" or
> bigger, so it has limited use.
>
> The sharpeners you're looking at are in a completely
> different class, tho. I suspect they will sharpen to
> like-new condition, and will handle most any size bit.
>
> John


I found that if I did not properly mount a bit in the holder I could
actually dull the bit. Other wize mine come out sharp.

On 3/20/2015 11:35 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>>
>> The next time you and Anie are hobnopping at a trade show, try this:
>>
>> 1 - Before you leave home, grab a beat up brad point bit. Oh, wait,
>> you probably don't have a beat up brad point bit. ;-) OK, go to the
>> borg, buy a brad point bit and beat it up.
>> 2 - At the trade show, go to a tool booth and borrow a cordless drill
>> (or bring your own)
>> 3 - Go to a wood booth and grab some samples of various types of wood
>> (or bring your own)
>> 4 - Bring everything to Anie, have her sharpen your bit (!) and then
>> test it.
>>
>> If Anie is willing to let you do that, that will be the first
>> indication that she is confident in her product. If she flat out
>> refuses, well, we know what that could indicate. Assuming she lets
>> you do that, you'll have your answer as to whether or not the
>> JOOLTOOL (or the operator) is any good at sharpening brad point bits.
>>
>> I know you like your Colt bits, but you would doing the the rest of a
>> huge service. We all thank you for your efforts. ;-)
>
> That's a good plan but I still cannot understand why people here keep
> focusing on drill bit sharpeners. Sharpening a drill bit on a grinding
> wheel is really a very simple thing once you are shown, or develop the
> technique. It might be worth the effort for the less confident members, to
> go to a machine shop nearby and have them show you how to do it. You'll be
> surprised at how simple the technique is and with just a little practice,
> you can master it. Way less money than spending what they get for these
> machines - and equally as good. It takes me under 15 seconds to sharpen a
> bit. I've taken broken bits and put them back into service in less than one
> minute. Anyone can do it.
>


What do you sharpen your bit's with? Do you need a grinder and maybe a
special wheel? I wonder how that compares in price to a machine
dedicated to sharpening bits. ;~)