New Band Saw Questions

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:31:09 -0400, eclipsme <[email protected]> wrote:

>I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
>together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
>after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
>saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>
>Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
>the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
>of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
>the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.
>
>The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
>I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
>I need to call the dealer on Monday?
>
>Thanks,
>Harvey

Measuring wheels that are not coplanar can be tricky. Coplanar wheels
are very important for wide blades and when resawing. Sometimes as
the tension is changed the wheels will change as well. This may not
be an indication of poor quality or design. You should install a wide
blade, put it under the proper tension, then measure with a
straightedge. There may be a wheel adjustment on the top wheel,
sometimes in the center. If the owner's manual does not show an
adjustment, call Jet customer support. Monday is a "holiday"--you may
have to wait until Tuesday. Anyway, congratulations on getting a band
saw! It is a wonderful machine when properly tuned, a frustration
when it needs a tune up. Buy "Band Saw Handbook" by Mark Duginske.

I also have the Jet 14" open stand. Mine are not coplanar and the unit
came assembled in the box, the instructions say nothing on this
adjustment, and the blades seem to track fine. I don't plan on
touching mine unless I could be convinced I have a problem.

Also, remember that the blade may be cone-shaped. I weld my own to
length from bulk reel stock and am always able to adjust the wheels,
guides and bearings to suit. Don't worry so much, just mount the thing
and get to work.

No, you do not need to call anybody. That is precisely why there are so
many adjustments on the saw. Remember that the blade runs on the tires
(not the wheels themselves) and they may be very slightly cone-shaped
one way or another, just like the tires on a car. Let the tires wear in
for a while and keep it i tune and it should be fine.

"Enoch Root" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
>>>purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
>>>works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.
>>>
>>
>>
>> 3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a
>> 1/2"
>> on my Jet.
>
> I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
> tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
> imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
> I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
> blade without problems.
>

I use the 3/4 with my 20 year old spring without a problem. The slim
section Suffolk blade. Reasonable feed rates and wood held steady make a
huge difference, of course.

"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George wrote:
>> I use the 3/4 with my 20 year old spring without a problem. The slim
>> section Suffolk blade. Reasonable feed rates and wood held steady make a
>> huge difference, of course.
>>
>>
>
> Perhaps it also depends on how often the blade is on the saw and for how
> long? I would think that occasional use (such as mine) would be much less
> of a potential problem for the tension spring than if the 3/4" blade were
> used continuously.
>

Well, detensioning makes a difference, I should think. Maintaining tension
will exacerbate known problems with blade work-hardening as it is
continuously bent, and any open any cracks accelerated by corrosion.

I took my lathe work blade off the saw yesterday to do some resawing - slats
for the kids' mission-style bed. It's good enough for rough work, but even
with my birthday present - Performax drum sander, it pays to have a good
blade in the saw. My son-in-law, who had never resawn before did a job that
is within one pass with a 120 belt of reality. Back to the less-than fully
sharp and narrower blade today.

"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I am just wondering if this is an issue brought about by the wheels not
> being coplaner. If yours is square, then I will probably look at other
> possibilities.
>
> Anybody else have ideas on this?
>
> And again, let me thank all who have provided help on this issue.
> Harvey
>

Coplanar works in conjunction with the tracking knob. The objective with
crowned tires is to let the blade ride the crown about mid-width. If your
crowns are not coplanar at mid-adjustment, you may not have enough authority
in the tracking mechanism to achieve consistent tracking. The blades will
have a tendency to "surge" forward and than aft

"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Coplanar works in conjunction with the tracking knob. The objective with
>> crowned tires is to let the blade ride the crown about mid-width. If
>> your crowns are not coplanar at mid-adjustment, you may not have enough
>> authority in the tracking mechanism to achieve consistent tracking. The
>> blades will have a tendency to "surge" forward and than aft
>
> Thanks for the thought, but no, this is not what is going on. The blade
> tracks very well, though a bit behind middle on the upper wheel and a bit
> in front of middle on the bottom. The issue that has me continuing this is
> that the blade is not perpendicular to the table in the direction of the
> cut, which seems to me to be a fairly serious issue.

It is exactly the same issue. Move the bottom wheel to get the things
square and upright.
>
> Harvey

"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yes, Charlie. I have called - twice, in fact. The first time I was told to
> loosen the bolt holding the lower and upper units together, and that this
> would give me enough movement for adjustment.
>
> It didn't.
>
> I then called first thing yesterday. I was asked to take pictures and send
> them. I created a web page showing how the blade is not square to the
> table, and sent the technician the link. I have not heard back.
>
> Here is the link:
> http://www.eclipsme.com/bandsaw.htm
>

Doesn't look like they gave you any shim room on that bottom wheel, if I
interpret the picture correctly. It could use to go forward half the
straightedge gap distance, which would give you about twice the correction
to run that blade back to the crown.

Glad I have "old iron" in my shop.Without the blade, when you raise the
upper guard, does the deviation from vertical on a point on it display the
same displacement? If it does, could be that he's right, and it's a riser
block problem.

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 09:48:19 -0700, Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote:

>Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
>>>purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
>>>works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.
>>>
>>
>>
>> 3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a 1/2"
>> on my Jet.
>
>I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
>tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
>imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
>I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
>blade without problems.
>
>er

In my fumbling education on BS blades, I tried 3/4"... I tried a size at a time
and ended up with a 3/8" blade... and I can make straighter cuts with it than
the 3/4" blade and it drags a LOT less on my lil' 3/4 hp motor..
That's a major consideration when you're using an under powered saw with 8 or 10
inch thick wood..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Hello Charlie,

Mine is the JWBS-14CS. Seems to be the same saw with a different base.
As you don't see how it could be off 1/4", I don't see how this could
possibly be adjusted. Most of the saw was preassembled. I had to mount
it to the base, but the wheels, frame, etc were factory assembled, just
like yours.

I don't know if this is really a problem either, but certainly
appreciate hearing that yours is coplaner. I bought mine at Woodcraft,
by mail order. I suppose I will give them a call.

Thanks,
Harvey

Charlie H. wrote:
> I have the Jet JWBS-14OS which is the bottom 14" saw in the line up. I had
> never thought about checking for this alignment. I eyeballed the blade
> tracking to run in the middle of the top wheel when I assembled the saw and
> called it good. I just went to the shop and threw a straight edge on the
> wheels and they are aligned very well, I could not see any gaps with the
> straight edge touching the top of the top wheel and the bottom of the bottom
> wheel.
> I realize that my saw is not exactly like yours, but based off of what I
> just looked at if your wheels really are 1/4" off coplanar I would think
> there is a problem with the saw. I know that others have expressed
> differing opinions and I am not an "expert". But I just don't see how it
> could be off 1/4" if it is assembled correctly. If you bought the saw
> locally go and measure the floor model and see if it is like the one you
> have. Did you have to fully assemble your saw ?? Mine came with the cast
> iron frame / wheels / blade assembled as a unit so there was no opportunity
> for me to miss something that could cause a coplanar alignment issue.
>
> Charlie
>
>
> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
>> together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp. after
>> reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new saws,
>> particularly the Delta band saws.
>>
>> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that the
>> blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out of
>> coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on the
>> upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.
>>
>> The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least I
>> think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do I
>> need to call the dealer on Monday?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Harvey
>
>

Enoch Root wrote:
> eclipsme wrote:
>> Yes, Charlie. I have called - twice, in fact. The first time I was told
>> to loosen the bolt holding the lower and upper units together, and that
>> this would give me enough movement for adjustment.
>>
>> It didn't.
>>
>> I then called first thing yesterday. I was asked to take pictures and
>> send them. I created a web page showing how the blade is not square to
>> the table, and sent the technician the link. I have not heard back.
>>
>> Here is the link:
>> http://www.eclipsme.com/bandsaw.htm
>
> I haven't tried this on my own, but I have read (I think it was in the
> amazon reviews) that for a while delta(?) risers weren't fitting
> properly to their bandsaws and the "solution" was to remove the
> alignment pins on the riser to allow it to be fitted.
>
> You might consider doing something similar to change the relationship of
> the lower and upper frame. You should probably contact Jet first to see
> what they think of it.
>
> er

Thanks for the suggestion. I spoke with Jet yesterday. The tech was
going to contact his supervisor, etc, and get back to me on Monday. I
can only see 2 ways of resolving this - shim the lower wheel out, if
possible, or your suggestion. I hadn't actually thought of removing the
alignment pins, but I don't see how that could hurt. Then it would just
be a matter of sliding the upper unit out until everything lined up.

Harvey

George wrote:
> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>> Coplanar works in conjunction with the tracking knob. The objective with
>>> crowned tires is to let the blade ride the crown about mid-width. If
>>> your crowns are not coplanar at mid-adjustment, you may not have enough
>>> authority in the tracking mechanism to achieve consistent tracking. The
>>> blades will have a tendency to "surge" forward and than aft
>> Thanks for the thought, but no, this is not what is going on. The blade
>> tracks very well, though a bit behind middle on the upper wheel and a bit
>> in front of middle on the bottom. The issue that has me continuing this is
>> that the blade is not perpendicular to the table in the direction of the
>> cut, which seems to me to be a fairly serious issue.
>
> It is exactly the same issue. Move the bottom wheel to get the things
> square and upright.
>> Harvey
>
>

I will look at this.

Harvey

eclipsme wrote:
> I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
> together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
> after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
> saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>
> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
> the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
> of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
> the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.
>
> The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
> I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
> I need to call the dealer on Monday?
>
> Thanks,
> Harvey
Leave it alone. I've been there, and made the mistake of "correcting" a
BS to coplaner. I had to undo the "correction". the manufacturers know
more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about coplaner
"corrections".

Dave

George wrote:
> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I am just wondering if this is an issue brought about by the wheels not
>> being coplaner. If yours is square, then I will probably look at other
>> possibilities.
>>
>> Anybody else have ideas on this?
>>
>> And again, let me thank all who have provided help on this issue.
>> Harvey
>>
>
> Coplanar works in conjunction with the tracking knob. The objective with
> crowned tires is to let the blade ride the crown about mid-width. If your
> crowns are not coplanar at mid-adjustment, you may not have enough authority
> in the tracking mechanism to achieve consistent tracking. The blades will
> have a tendency to "surge" forward and than aft
>
>

Thanks for the thought, but no, this is not what is going on. The blade
tracks very well, though a bit behind middle on the upper wheel and a
bit in front of middle on the bottom. The issue that has me continuing
this is that the blade is not perpendicular to the table in the
direction of the cut, which seems to me to be a fairly serious issue.

Harvey

eclipsme wrote:
> Yes, Charlie. I have called - twice, in fact. The first time I was told
> to loosen the bolt holding the lower and upper units together, and that
> this would give me enough movement for adjustment.
>
> It didn't.
>
> I then called first thing yesterday. I was asked to take pictures and
> send them. I created a web page showing how the blade is not square to
> the table, and sent the technician the link. I have not heard back.
>
> Here is the link:
> http://www.eclipsme.com/bandsaw.htm

I haven't tried this on my own, but I have read (I think it was in the
amazon reviews) that for a while delta(?) risers weren't fitting
properly to their bandsaws and the "solution" was to remove the
alignment pins on the riser to allow it to be fitted.

You might consider doing something similar to change the relationship of
the lower and upper frame. You should probably contact Jet first to see
what they think of it.

er
--
email not valid

Toller wrote:
>> saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>>
>> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that the
>> blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out of
>> coplaner.
>
> My new Delta is perfect. Too bad for you...
>
>

Sometimes it is difficult to restrain oneself from responding to posts
with new posts that add nothing to the general discussion.

I guess we both failed here.

Harvey

Charlie H. wrote:
> Since the Jet tech told you to try to adjust the riser block that would
> suggest that the wheels are supposed to be coplanar. If they try to reverse
> direction and tell you that they are currently correct be very suspicious.
> Someone mentioned possibly removing the alignment pin so the riser could be
> aligned, I don't know about removing the alignment pin, that would make a
> single bolt have to hold everything together on every axis. Stuff happens
> when you are using power tools and without that pin there is nothing to keep
> the two pieces from twisting if something heavy knocks into it. In my
> opinion this would be an unacceptable solution to a manufacturing problem.
> I know all manufacturers have a hiccup once in a while, so hopefully they
> will step up to the plate and get this resolved.

Yes, it will be interesting to hear what Jet says, hopefully tomorrow. I
appreciate your comments regarding removing the locater pins. Perhaps I
will need to drill new holes in the riser block. You are certainly
right, stuff happens.

Harvey

Yes, Charlie. I have called - twice, in fact. The first time I was told
to loosen the bolt holding the lower and upper units together, and that
this would give me enough movement for adjustment.

It didn't.

I then called first thing yesterday. I was asked to take pictures and
send them. I created a web page showing how the blade is not square to
the table, and sent the technician the link. I have not heard back.

Here is the link:
http://www.eclipsme.com/bandsaw.htm

Harvey

Charlie H. wrote:
> Harvey,
> I don't see how the wheels can be adjusted either.
> Have you called the service department at JET ?
> For technical service concerning JET, POWERMATIC, PERFORMAX, and WILTON
> retail products call 800-274-6846 - 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (CST, Monday -
> Friday).
> You never know what to expect from a service department but they might be
> knowledgable and helpful.
>
> Charlie
>
>
> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hello Charlie,
>>
>> Mine is the JWBS-14CS. Seems to be the same saw with a different base. As
>> you don't see how it could be off 1/4", I don't see how this could
>> possibly be adjusted. Most of the saw was preassembled. I had to mount it
>> to the base, but the wheels, frame, etc were factory assembled, just like
>> yours.
>>
>> I don't know if this is really a problem either, but certainly appreciate
>> hearing that yours is coplaner. I bought mine at Woodcraft, by mail order.
>> I suppose I will give them a call.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Harvey
>>
>> Charlie H. wrote:
>>> I have the Jet JWBS-14OS which is the bottom 14" saw in the line up. I
>>> had never thought about checking for this alignment. I eyeballed the
>>> blade tracking to run in the middle of the top wheel when I assembled the
>>> saw and called it good. I just went to the shop and threw a straight
>>> edge on the wheels and they are aligned very well, I could not see any
>>> gaps with the straight edge touching the top of the top wheel and the
>>> bottom of the bottom wheel.
>>> I realize that my saw is not exactly like yours, but based off of what I
>>> just looked at if your wheels really are 1/4" off coplanar I would think
>>> there is a problem with the saw. I know that others have expressed
>>> differing opinions and I am not an "expert". But I just don't see how it
>>> could be off 1/4" if it is assembled correctly. If you bought the saw
>>> locally go and measure the floor model and see if it is like the one you
>>> have. Did you have to fully assemble your saw ?? Mine came with the
>>> cast iron frame / wheels / blade assembled as a unit so there was no
>>> opportunity for me to miss something that could cause a coplanar
>>> alignment issue.
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>>
>>>
>>> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
>>>> together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
>>>> after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
>>>> saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>>>>
>>>> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
>>>> the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
>>>> of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
>>>> the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.
>>>>
>>>> The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
>>>> I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
>>>> I need to call the dealer on Monday?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Harvey
>

eclipsme wrote:

>> I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
>>together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
>>after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their
>>new saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>>
>> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels
that >>the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately
1/4" out >>of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond
centered on >>the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.
>>
>> The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at
>>least I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a
>>problem? Do I need to call the dealer on Monday?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Harvey

>Leave it alone. I've been there, and made the mistake of "correcting"
>a BS to coplaner. I had to undo the "correction". the manufacturers
>know more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about
>coplaner "corrections".
>
>Dave

The problem as I see it with the majority of these responses is that the
experience of each of the responders on this and similar threads is on
one type/size/brand of bandsaw, and so their experience (adjust / not
adjust) reflects what worked well just for that saw and that operator.

But not all saws and not all operators are made alike...

I shimmed the top wheel on my Griz G0555 about .115" out to make them
coplanar and the resaw tracking became perfect. Prior to that the blade
was tracking perfectly centered on the wheels, but the saw needed
constant tweaking and I had to follow the *drift* to get straight cuts.
One of the effects of getting the wheels coplanar and tracked correctly
is (again, for some saws) straight, accurate, easy resawing with the
wood against the fence, without having to tweak to find or follow the
blade "drift". Just throw the wood on the saw and go.

Of course good blades, and good quality, well-adjusted guides are
indispensable and that is where IMO Grizzly falls down. The roller
guides that come with this saw require way too much time and effort to
properly adjust, and also can't be used with small blades. Replaced them
- what a difference. Then again, this is all just *my* experience!

"Sailaway" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I haven't looked into this at all (I use 1/2" or smaller), but I was
> curious... I've seen lots of discussions about 1/2" vs. 3/4" blades, but
> for us 14" owners shouldn't there be a blade that splits the difference,
> like maybe a 5/8" resaw blade? That would let the weaker springs tension
> it better than a 3/4, but perhaps get better cuts than 1/2"?

There are 5/8" blades. IIRC Timberwolf sells them in bi-metal versions.
Also my short lived Rikon BS came with a 5/8" blade.

> saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>
> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that the
> blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out of
> coplaner.

My new Delta is perfect. Too bad for you...

"RM MS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> No, you do not need to call anybody. That is precisely why there are so
> many adjustments on the saw. Remember that the blade runs on the tires
> (not the wheels themselves) and they may be very slightly cone-shaped
> one way or another, just like the tires on a car. Let the tires wear in
> for a while and keep it i tune and it should be fine.
>

Umm, the tires are supposed to be oval and higher in the middle. This high
spot is what helps to keep the blade on the wheel. The thinner blades
naturally track towards the high spot. Saws that predominately use wider
blades tend to work better with tires with less of a high spot but for
thinner blades the high spot is what you want. A tire that is "cone-shaped"
one way or another??? If there is a low spot, cone shaped in another
way,,,,,,, the tire is probably shot.

SNIP
> the manufacturers know
> more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about
>coplaner "corrections".
>
> Dave


BTW, the manual that came with my Griz bandsaw has a section on setup
and tuning *before using the bandsaw* and states that after checking the
wheels for coplanar the top wheel should be shimmed to make the wheels
coplanar. So I guess you're right, the manufacturers know more - but I
suspect they don't always tell...

eclipsme wrote:

> See if the blade is square to the table in the direction of the line of
> cut. Obviously in the other direction, you would simply adjust the
> table, but in this direction, there is no adjustment.

I had/have this. It was more obvious at first, then I did something to
lessen the problem--it's still there, at 1/2 degree (+/- 5'), but it's
not pressing. Don't know what it was I did though.

er
--
email not valid

"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
> purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
> works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.
>

3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a 1/2"
on my Jet.

Sailaway wrote:
> SNIP
> > the manufacturers know
> > more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about
> >coplaner "corrections".
> >
> > Dave
>
>
> BTW, the manual that came with my Griz bandsaw has a section on setup
> and tuning *before using the bandsaw* and states that after checking the
> wheels for coplanar the top wheel should be shimmed to make the wheels
> coplanar. So I guess you're right, the manufacturers know more - but I
> suspect they don't always tell...

Correct, they don't. The Jet only spoke of checking that the motor is
coplaner with the pully, not the blade wheels. I don't see a way of
adjusting it, and what really confused me now is a previous post
regarding the same model saw that arrived coplaner.

Harvey

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 08:52:03 -0400, eclipsme <[email protected]> wrote:

>Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
>purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
>works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.
>
>Harvey
>
I got obsessed with adjustments when I got my RAS... spent WAY too much time
tuning and tweaking...

I realized that when I cut something on my brother's RAS, an old craftsman that
I'd envied for years... it was so "untuned" and "untweaked" that it shouldn't of
cut paper.. but it still cuts things square and works... it just LOOKS weird..
(I think that his table is way off, but his fence and blade seem square to the
table so it works)

With my BS, I took it out of the box, followed the instructions for assembly and
setup, and started sawing... if cuts straight and seems to work, so I don't mess
with it...

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

George wrote:
> "Enoch Root" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>>> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>> Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
>>>> purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
>>>> works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.
>>>>
>>>
>>> 3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a
>>> 1/2"
>>> on my Jet.
>> I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
>> tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
>> imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
>> I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
>> blade without problems.
>>
>
> I use the 3/4 with my 20 year old spring without a problem. The slim
> section Suffolk blade. Reasonable feed rates and wood held steady make a
> huge difference, of course.
>
>

Perhaps it also depends on how often the blade is on the saw and for how
long? I would think that occasional use (such as mine) would be much
less of a potential problem for the tension spring than if the 3/4"
blade were used continuously.

Harvey

George wrote:

SNIP
>>>
>>> 3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I
use a 1/2" on my Jet.
>>
>> I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
>> tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
>> imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
>> I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
>> blade without problems.
SNIP

I haven't looked into this at all (I use 1/2" or smaller), but I was
curious... I've seen lots of discussions about 1/2" vs. 3/4" blades, but
for us 14" owners shouldn't there be a blade that splits the difference,
like maybe a 5/8" resaw blade? That would let the weaker springs tension
it better than a 3/4, but perhaps get better cuts than 1/2"?

On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:31:09 -0400, eclipsme <[email protected]> wrote:

>I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
>together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
>after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
>saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>
>Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
>the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
>of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
>the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.
>
>The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
>I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
>I need to call the dealer on Monday?
>
>Thanks,
>Harvey

Sounds like a voice of experience . . .

Always wonder about some of these "tune-ups" that are needed according to
authors of Woodworking Books . . .

Would we go to Cher for piano repair and tune up expertise?


"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> eclipsme wrote:
> > I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
> > together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
> > after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
> > saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
> >
> > Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
> > the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
> > of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
> > the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.
> >
> > The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
> > I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
> > I need to call the dealer on Monday?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Harvey
> Leave it alone. I've been there, and made the mistake of "correcting" a
> BS to coplaner. I had to undo the "correction". the manufacturers know
> more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about coplaner
> "corrections".
>
> Dave

Charlie H. wrote:
> Did this issue ever get resolved ?
> If so what was the solution ?
>
> Regards,
> Charlie

Yes, Charlie, it has. I posted a report yesterday under a different
heading, but include it below for you:
=================================================
As I wrote earlier, my new 14" JET bandsaw arrived with the wheels about
1/4" out of plane, though the saw cut well. However, the blade was not
square to the table in the direction of cut. I created a web page to
show the JET tech what was going on.

See:

http://www.eclipsme.com/bandsaw.htm

The tech thought that the riser block may have been machined badly,
which I didn't believe as the saw had the problem before I put the riser
block in. However, he offered to send me a new one, which I accepted.

Sure enough, there was no improvement, but I took the opportunity of
having 2 riser blocks to experiment on one.

As mentioned here, I though of cutting off the pins to allow me to
adjust the upper part of the saw, but somebody on this group (sorry, I
don't remember who) pointed out that it could be dangerous if the bolt
loosened for any reason as there would be nothing to stop the upper part
of the saw from twisting around the bolt.

So instead, I drilled new locater holes in the riser block 1/4" offset.
after installing it so the upper part is now 1/4" further back than
originally, the wheels are ever so close to being coplaner, the blade is
square, and I just re-sawed some 5" southern yellow pine into 1/8"
veneers, plus or minus 1/16" (thicknesses from 1/16 - 3/16") which I
considered very good indeed. The surface is also much cleaner than I had
before, though that could be due to better guide setup.

I don't have any idea why the saw was designed this way, but I am very
happy with the solution. I can recommend this saw to others, but with
the caveat that you may want to either perform the same modification, or
perhaps shim the bottom wheel out. BTW - tech okeyed shimming, and
promised it wouldn't affect the warranty. I was concerned about the
wheel riding 1/4" further out on the shaft, with added wear. Anyway, I
am now happy with what I have.

Thank you for everyone's suggestions.

Harvey

>
> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Enoch Root wrote:
>>> eclipsme wrote:
>>>> Yes, Charlie. I have called - twice, in fact. The first time I was told
>>>> to loosen the bolt holding the lower and upper units together, and that
>>>> this would give me enough movement for adjustment.
>>>>
>>>> It didn't.
>>>>
>>>> I then called first thing yesterday. I was asked to take pictures and
>>>> send them. I created a web page showing how the blade is not square to
>>>> the table, and sent the technician the link. I have not heard back.
>>>>
>>>> Here is the link:
>>>> http://www.eclipsme.com/bandsaw.htm
>>> I haven't tried this on my own, but I have read (I think it was in the
>>> amazon reviews) that for a while delta(?) risers weren't fitting
>>> properly to their bandsaws and the "solution" was to remove the
>>> alignment pins on the riser to allow it to be fitted.
>>>
>>> You might consider doing something similar to change the relationship of
>>> the lower and upper frame. You should probably contact Jet first to see
>>> what they think of it.
>>>
>>> er
>> Thanks for the suggestion. I spoke with Jet yesterday. The tech was going
>> to contact his supervisor, etc, and get back to me on Monday. I can only
>> see 2 ways of resolving this - shim the lower wheel out, if possible, or
>> your suggestion. I hadn't actually thought of removing the alignment pins,
>> but I don't see how that could hurt. Then it would just be a matter of
>> sliding the upper unit out until everything lined up.
>>
>> Harvey
>
>

"eclipsme" wrote in message

> The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
> I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
> I need to call the dealer on Monday?

Apparently that is not untypical with Jet bandsaws, doesn't usually cause a
problem, and is most likely nothing to worry about. If the blade tracks
well, in the middle of the tires, and you are satisfied with the cut, I
would leave it alone.

Many folks screw up perfectly good bandsaws obsessing with getting the
wheels exactly "co-planar".

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

Since the Jet tech told you to try to adjust the riser block that would
suggest that the wheels are supposed to be coplanar. If they try to reverse
direction and tell you that they are currently correct be very suspicious.
Someone mentioned possibly removing the alignment pin so the riser could be
aligned, I don't know about removing the alignment pin, that would make a
single bolt have to hold everything together on every axis. Stuff happens
when you are using power tools and without that pin there is nothing to keep
the two pieces from twisting if something heavy knocks into it. In my
opinion this would be an unacceptable solution to a manufacturing problem.
I know all manufacturers have a hiccup once in a while, so hopefully they
will step up to the plate and get this resolved.
In the event that you cannot get satisfaction dealing directly with Jet,
since you ordered the saw through Woodcraft, what is their opinion on this ?
Can you return the saw for a full refund ? If this is an option I might go
for it instead of continuing to mess with what you have.
In the 14" saws I found very little difference between Jet, Delta, and
Rigid. The only reason I ended up buying a Jet instead of a Rigid was a
combination offer from Rockler of sale price, rebate, and free table vise,
otherwise I would have bought the Rigid saw from Home Depot because it was
$150 cheaper at regular price.

Hang in there,
Charlie

eclipsme wrote:
> George wrote:
>
>> "Enoch Root" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>>>
>>>> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>>> Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
>>>>> purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If
>>>>> that
>>>>> works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use
>>>> a 1/2"
>>>> on my Jet.
>>>
>>> I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
>>> tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
>>> imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
>>> I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
>>> blade without problems.
>>>
>>
>> I use the 3/4 with my 20 year old spring without a problem. The slim
>> section Suffolk blade. Reasonable feed rates and wood held steady
>> make a huge difference, of course.
>>
>>
>
> Perhaps it also depends on how often the blade is on the saw and for how
> long? I would think that occasional use (such as mine) would be much
> less of a potential problem for the tension spring than if the 3/4"
> blade were used continuously.

In any case, the Ittura Bandsaw catalog has replacements, and Grizzly
keeps lots of parts (speaking to my bandsaw), and I think you may even
be able to use springs from kbctools, McMaster-Carr, and similar.

I'm thinking the "Die Springs" could be used, and are very cheap, but I
don't know if the medium or heavy duty ones are more appropriate. The
medium duty ones have a greater efficient range of deflection, the heavy
duty ones (at kbctools) offer greater loads at maximum deflection.

er
--
email not valid

Jerry wrote:
> I also have the Jet 14" open stand. Mine are not coplanar and the unit
> came assembled in the box, the instructions say nothing on this
> adjustment, and the blades seem to track fine. I don't plan on
> touching mine unless I could be convinced I have a problem.
>

Thanks for the report Jerry. I wonder if you would check something for me.

See if the blade is square to the table in the direction of the line of
cut. Obviously in the other direction, you would simply adjust the
table, but in this direction, there is no adjustment.

With mine, I have found that it is out by perhaps 3 degrees, or the
depth of a tooth over about 6". Although the blade tracks well, etc,
this seems to be a much more serious issue.

I am just wondering if this is an issue brought about by the wheels not
being coplaner. If yours is square, then I will probably look at other
possibilities.

Anybody else have ideas on this?

And again, let me thank all who have provided help on this issue.
Harvey

Sailaway wrote:

> SNIP
> > the manufacturers know
> > more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about
>coplaner "corrections".
> >
> > Dave


> BTW, the manual that came with my Griz bandsaw has a section on setup
>and tuning *before using the bandsaw* and states that after checking
>the wheels for coplanar the top wheel should be shimmed to make the
>wheels coplanar. So I guess you're right, the manufacturers know more
- >but I suspect they don't always tell...

eclipsme wrote:
>Correct, they don't. The Jet only spoke of checking that the motor is
>coplaner with the pully, not the blade wheels. I don't see a way of
>adjusting it, and what really confused me now is a previous post
>regarding the same model saw that arrived coplaner.
>
>Harvey

One other thing the manufacturers don't tell you is weather or not your
chiwanese bandsaw has a thrust spacer between bearings inside the
upper wheel (the one you shim). Depending on the way your upper wheel is
mounted, if you shim the wheel and you do not have this spacer, you may
place undue side-load on the bearings and damage your saw during use.
The Grizzly BS (which does not have this thrust sleeve) mounts the wheel
on a shouldered bolt, and the mounting nut tightens up on the shoulder
rather than on the inside race of the bearing. If you have this type and
you shim behind the wheel to bring the wheel out (as was in my case),
the bearings will now be pressed tightly against the nut creating
side-load on the bearings - then you must have this sleeve in between
the bearings to take the load. So I had to pull the bearings and make a
sleeve. Doing these easy, relatively minor adjustments has made this
into a well behaved saw. YMMV

I have the Jet JWBS-14OS which is the bottom 14" saw in the line up. I had
never thought about checking for this alignment. I eyeballed the blade
tracking to run in the middle of the top wheel when I assembled the saw and
called it good. I just went to the shop and threw a straight edge on the
wheels and they are aligned very well, I could not see any gaps with the
straight edge touching the top of the top wheel and the bottom of the bottom
wheel.
I realize that my saw is not exactly like yours, but based off of what I
just looked at if your wheels really are 1/4" off coplanar I would think
there is a problem with the saw. I know that others have expressed
differing opinions and I am not an "expert". But I just don't see how it
could be off 1/4" if it is assembled correctly. If you bought the saw
locally go and measure the floor model and see if it is like the one you
have. Did you have to fully assemble your saw ?? Mine came with the cast
iron frame / wheels / blade assembled as a unit so there was no opportunity
for me to miss something that could cause a coplanar alignment issue.

Charlie


"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
>together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp. after
>reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new saws,
>particularly the Delta band saws.
>
> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that the
> blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out of
> coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on the
> upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.
>
> The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least I
> think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do I
> need to call the dealer on Monday?
>
> Thanks,
> Harvey

"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
> No, just you. He said he was impressed with the Jet, since it was so much
> better than the Deltas; yet he had a problem. I was just pointing out
> that I avoided his problem by buying a Delta that was just fine.

No one that ever bought a Delta has had a problem? I didn't know that.
Conversely, does everyone that buys a Jet have a problem? I didn't.

Harvey,
I don't see how the wheels can be adjusted either.
Have you called the service department at JET ?
For technical service concerning JET, POWERMATIC, PERFORMAX, and WILTON
retail products call 800-274-6846 - 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (CST, Monday -
Friday).
You never know what to expect from a service department but they might be
knowledgable and helpful.

Charlie


"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello Charlie,
>
> Mine is the JWBS-14CS. Seems to be the same saw with a different base. As
> you don't see how it could be off 1/4", I don't see how this could
> possibly be adjusted. Most of the saw was preassembled. I had to mount it
> to the base, but the wheels, frame, etc were factory assembled, just like
> yours.
>
> I don't know if this is really a problem either, but certainly appreciate
> hearing that yours is coplaner. I bought mine at Woodcraft, by mail order.
> I suppose I will give them a call.
>
> Thanks,
> Harvey
>
> Charlie H. wrote:
>> I have the Jet JWBS-14OS which is the bottom 14" saw in the line up. I
>> had never thought about checking for this alignment. I eyeballed the
>> blade tracking to run in the middle of the top wheel when I assembled the
>> saw and called it good. I just went to the shop and threw a straight
>> edge on the wheels and they are aligned very well, I could not see any
>> gaps with the straight edge touching the top of the top wheel and the
>> bottom of the bottom wheel.
>> I realize that my saw is not exactly like yours, but based off of what I
>> just looked at if your wheels really are 1/4" off coplanar I would think
>> there is a problem with the saw. I know that others have expressed
>> differing opinions and I am not an "expert". But I just don't see how it
>> could be off 1/4" if it is assembled correctly. If you bought the saw
>> locally go and measure the floor model and see if it is like the one you
>> have. Did you have to fully assemble your saw ?? Mine came with the
>> cast iron frame / wheels / blade assembled as a unit so there was no
>> opportunity for me to miss something that could cause a coplanar
>> alignment issue.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
>>> together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
>>> after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
>>> saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>>>
>>> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
>>> the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
>>> of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
>>> the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.
>>>
>>> The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
>>> I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
>>> I need to call the dealer on Monday?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Harvey
>>

George wrote:
> "Enoch Root" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>>
>>>"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
>>>>purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
>>>>works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a
>>>1/2"
>>>on my Jet.
>>
>>I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
>>tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
>>imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
>>I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
>>blade without problems.
>>
>
>
> I use the 3/4 with my 20 year old spring without a problem. The slim
> section Suffolk blade. Reasonable feed rates and wood held steady make a
> huge difference, of course.

I think I'm using the same blade. Thanks.

er
--
email not valid

Did this issue ever get resolved ?
If so what was the solution ?

Regards,
Charlie

"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Enoch Root wrote:
>> eclipsme wrote:
>>> Yes, Charlie. I have called - twice, in fact. The first time I was told
>>> to loosen the bolt holding the lower and upper units together, and that
>>> this would give me enough movement for adjustment.
>>>
>>> It didn't.
>>>
>>> I then called first thing yesterday. I was asked to take pictures and
>>> send them. I created a web page showing how the blade is not square to
>>> the table, and sent the technician the link. I have not heard back.
>>>
>>> Here is the link:
>>> http://www.eclipsme.com/bandsaw.htm
>>
>> I haven't tried this on my own, but I have read (I think it was in the
>> amazon reviews) that for a while delta(?) risers weren't fitting
>> properly to their bandsaws and the "solution" was to remove the
>> alignment pins on the riser to allow it to be fitted.
>>
>> You might consider doing something similar to change the relationship of
>> the lower and upper frame. You should probably contact Jet first to see
>> what they think of it.
>>
>> er
>
> Thanks for the suggestion. I spoke with Jet yesterday. The tech was going
> to contact his supervisor, etc, and get back to me on Monday. I can only
> see 2 ways of resolving this - shim the lower wheel out, if possible, or
> your suggestion. I hadn't actually thought of removing the alignment pins,
> but I don't see how that could hurt. Then it would just be a matter of
> sliding the upper unit out until everything lined up.
>
> Harvey

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
>>purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
>>works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.
>>
>
>
> 3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a 1/2"
> on my Jet.

I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
blade without problems.

er
--
email not valid

"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Toller wrote:
>>> saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>>>
>>> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
>>> the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
>>> of coplaner.
>>
>> My new Delta is perfect. Too bad for you...
>
> Sometimes it is difficult to restrain oneself from responding to posts
> with new posts that add nothing to the general discussion.
>
> I guess we both failed here.
>
No, just you. He said he was impressed with the Jet, since it was so much
better than the Deltas; yet he had a problem. I was just pointing out that
I avoided his problem by buying a Delta that was just fine.

mac davis wrote:
> On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 09:48:19 -0700, Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>>
>>>"eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
>>>>purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
>>>>works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a 1/2"
>>>on my Jet.
>>
>>I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
>>tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
>>imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
>>I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
>>blade without problems.
>>
>>er
>
>
> In my fumbling education on BS blades, I tried 3/4"... I tried a size at a time
> and ended up with a 3/8" blade... and I can make straighter cuts with it than
> the 3/4" blade and it drags a LOT less on my lil' 3/4 hp motor..
> That's a major consideration when you're using an under powered saw with 8 or 10
> inch thick wood..

So far my biggest problem with the 3/4" blade is starting the cut in
hard wood: the first bite into the stock must be made very tentative,
or those big 3tpi teeth will grab hard and jerk--deeper and it'll stop
the motor! Then it's modest feed rate (for the 1hp motor) and smooth
sailing.

er
--
email not valid

"eclipsme" wrote in message
> Sailaway wrote:
> > SNIP
> > > the manufacturers know
> > > more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about
> > >coplaner "corrections".
> > >
> > > Dave
> >
> >
> > BTW, the manual that came with my Griz bandsaw has a section on setup
> > and tuning *before using the bandsaw* and states that after checking the
> > wheels for coplanar the top wheel should be shimmed to make the wheels
> > coplanar. So I guess you're right, the manufacturers know more - but I
> > suspect they don't always tell...
>
> Correct, they don't. The Jet only spoke of checking that the motor is
> coplaner with the pully, not the blade wheels. I don't see a way of
> adjusting it, and what really confused me now is a previous post
> regarding the same model saw that arrived coplaner.


IIRC, the Ittura catalog (most likely Louis, himself) mentions that Jet
engineers claim their 14" band saw wheels are designed to NOT be co-planar.

Now, he seems to think that is BS and his argument makes sense, but he also
states that if you are going to attempt to shim a Jet co-planar (and he
recommends doing it), you need to shim the bottom wheel outward to match the
top wheel, unlike with the Delta, where the top wheel is easier to shim.

Point is that anyone who owns a Jet/Delta/Grizzly 14" should definitely call
Iturra and have them mail you a copy of their informative "catalog".

1-888-722-7078

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 15:30:03 -0400, Sailaway <[email protected]> wrote:

>George wrote:
>
>SNIP
> >>>
> >>> 3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I
>use a 1/2" on my Jet.
> >>
> >> I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
> >> tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
> >> imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
> >> I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
> >> blade without problems.
>SNIP
>
>I haven't looked into this at all (I use 1/2" or smaller), but I was
>curious... I've seen lots of discussions about 1/2" vs. 3/4" blades, but
>for us 14" owners shouldn't there be a blade that splits the difference,
>like maybe a 5/8" resaw blade? That would let the weaker springs tension
>it better than a 3/4, but perhaps get better cuts than 1/2"?

Sure, my local saw shop carries 5/8" blades... I thought that was a common size?
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.

Harvey

Steve DeMars wrote:
> Sounds like a voice of experience . . .
>
> Always wonder about some of these "tune-ups" that are needed according to
> authors of Woodworking Books . . .
>
> Would we go to Cher for piano repair and tune up expertise?
>
>
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> eclipsme wrote:
>>> I just got a new Jet 14" closed base band saw. As I was putting it
>>> together, I was impressed with the fit and finish of the pieces, esp.
>>> after reading some of the comments others have made concerning their new
>>> saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>>>
>>> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
>>> the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
>>> of coplaner. This results in the blade being a bit beyond centered on
>>> the upper wheel and a bit before centered on the lower wheel.
>>>
>>> The saw seems to cut ok, without excessive noise or vibration - at least
>>> I think so. I have never owned a band saw before. Is this a problem? Do
>>> I need to call the dealer on Monday?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Harvey
>> Leave it alone. I've been there, and made the mistake of "correcting" a
>> BS to coplaner. I had to undo the "correction". the manufacturers know
>> more about building band saws than Duginske. skip his BS about coplaner
>> "corrections".
>>
>> Dave
>
>

Enoch Root wrote:
> Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> Thank you all for the replies. I will try it with a resaw blade - I
>>> purchased a 3/4" blade along with the saw for just that purpose. If that
>>> works out, I guess I will leave well enough alone.
>>>
>>
>> 3/4" is pretty wide for a 14" saw and needs a lot of tension. I use a 1/2"
>> on my Jet.
>
> I want to agree with this. I have a 3/4" for my saw and the saw
> tensions it just fine, but it is a new saw with a new spring and I
> imagine I'll have to replace the tension spring sooner than I would if
> I'd gotten a 1/2" blade for resawing if I hope to keep using the big
> blade without problems.
>
> er

Thanks. I may have jumped the gun on getting the blade. I saved shipping
by ordering it now. That's ok, there are lots of blades out there.

I appreciate all the helpful advice.

Harvey

Toller wrote:
> "eclipsme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Toller wrote:
>>>> saws, particularly the Delta band saws.
>>>>
>>>> Once I got it all together, I put a straightedge on the 2 wheels that
>>>> the blade goes around, and found that they were approximately 1/4" out
>>>> of coplaner.
>>> My new Delta is perfect. Too bad for you...
>> Sometimes it is difficult to restrain oneself from responding to posts
>> with new posts that add nothing to the general discussion.
>>
>> I guess we both failed here.
>>
> No, just you. He said he was impressed with the Jet, since it was so much
> better than the Deltas; yet he had a problem. I was just pointing out that
> I avoided his problem by buying a Delta that was just fine.
>
>

I'm sorry. the 'He' that you refer to is me, and I did not say how much
better my Jet was than delta, but rather that I was aware of problems
reported with other saws, particularly Delta, and was glad that I was
finding good fit and finish with the Jet.

You were not "just pointing out" that you avoided this problem by buying
a Delta, which would have been fine, but you said "Too bad for you...",
which was both insensitive and useless in terms of information conveyed,
or rather the lack of information conveyed. You were apparently just
stroking your ego at my expense. I don't appreciate that.

Well, I don't normally take the bait, but this time I did. Oh well. You
may now have the last word, as I am done with this discussion.

Once again, I thank everyone else for your constructive comments and
suggestions.

Harvey