I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board
I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in
between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and
sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any
suggestions?
Thanks
I don't know WHAT your problem is, sir, but I'll just steer around you
in the future.
David
[email protected] wrote:
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I'm not talking about blotch. I'm talking about the difference of
>>>absorption between late wood and early wood. one is generally harder,
>>>darker and less porous (can't remember which is which...). the
>>>lighter, more porous grain absorbs more stain and ends up darker. the
>>>result, to my eye is unnatural and unattractive. YMMV.
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 08:37:24 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>"Unnatural"? :) Wood, by it's very nature is NATURAL. If you want
>>eveness, use plastic or paint.
>>
>>David
>
>
>
>
> Dave, you were doing well for a while there. I was really happy to see
> you drop the B.A.D. boy act.
>
>
>
> too good to last, I guess.
"Unnatural"? :) Wood, by it's very nature is NATURAL. If you want
eveness, use plastic or paint.
David
[email protected] wrote:
>
> I'm not talking about blotch. I'm talking about the difference of
> absorption between late wood and early wood. one is generally harder,
> darker and less porous (can't remember which is which...). the
> lighter, more porous grain absorbs more stain and ends up darker. the
> result, to my eye is unnatural and unattractive. YMMV.
I believe the OP was asking about a solution for glue squeeze out- not
a diatribe against staining. There isn't always "the right color of
wood" hence the reason people have been staining or otherwise coloring
wood for centuries. And even if he decided to "glaze", tone, etc. the
glue squeeze out would still be visible. Not a lot of helpful
information in your post to help the OP.
What in your answer is going to help the OP? He didn't ask for your
opinion about staining. Is there always "the right color of wood"? If
so why have people been staining or otherwise coloring wood for
centuries? If he decided to "glaze" or tone instead of staining the
glue squeeze out would still be visible, would it not?
1. In the future, you can wipe the project down with mineral spirits
snd it will show all the glue spots before you stain.
2. In the future, don't follow Norm's advice (I rarely say that) and
use a sponge or wet cloth like he does. Let the glue squeeze and about
an hour later (depending on the weather), scrape it off witha chisel or
scraper.
3. In your current situation, don't bother sanding. It's too
ineffective in tight spots. Get an actuall scraper, sharpen that sucker
up, burnish it, etc. and reomve peels until you hit fresh wood.
Alternatively you can use a razor glue scraper or a crazy sharp chisel.
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> 2. In the future, don't follow Norm's advice (I rarely say that) and
> use a sponge or wet cloth like he does. Let the glue squeeze and about
> an hour later (depending on the weather), scrape it off witha chisel or
> scraper.
I'll second or third that one. Wiping the glue is a recipe for disaster
IME. It just gets it way down deep into the wood and makes it almost
impossible to clean up. This is evident at finishing time even if you
don't stain, which, of course, I don't, being an official member of the
Placating Larry Jacques Society. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
Larry Jaques wrote:
>>don't stain, which, of course, I don't, being an official member of the
>>Placating Larry Jacques Society. :)
>
> After all this time, Silvie, you still misspell my name. <sigh>
Oh hell. Have you pointed that out to me before? If so, I probably missed
it. I'm pretty anal about details like that, and I almost certainly would
have remembered if I had noticed your mentioning it sooner.
Speaking of Placating Larry Jaques and Shellaques... I think it was Tom or
Keith who said something about using shellac on cast iron. Maybe Charlie.
Anyway, I painted the base of my DP with the stuff umpty moons ago, and I
was just noticing the other day that it's still in perfect shape. Good way
to use up stuff that's about to go bad. Might even be suitable for the DP
table or such. Though probably not a TS top or other surface that sees a
great deal of sliding.
(And yeah, I realize that even though I associate you in my own twisted mind
as the guy who badgered me into trying shellac, you actually tout Waterlox,
IIRC, as your finish of choice. I'm perfectly well aware of the irony
Monsieur.)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
stoutman wrote:
>
> I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board
> I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in
> between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and
> sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks
Little trick from Michael Fortune - Waxalit (or it could be Waxilit)
- available
from Lee Valley. It's a wax like material with a consistency
somewhere
between valaline and a paste wax. Put it on with a Q-tip around the
joints,
glue pops right off when dry, get it off with alcohol on a Q-tip. A
little goes
a long way so get the small can.
charlie b
"stoutman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head
board
> I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was
in
> between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and
> sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any
> suggestions?
>
Frustrating, isn't it? Best I've found is a scrape and scratch, followed by
restaining. If you try to restain over wood compressed by scraping, it
still won't work, so 220 will help.
A bit of creative color mixing with artist color might blend them a bit.
I built that bed for/with my eldest, and we just mortised (new task - new
tool) so we could go with tight tenons and a drop at the bottom. Any
squeeze can be left, as others have said, until leathery. Scrape and then
give the whole area a reveal wipe with mineral spirits to make _sure_
you're clear before final sanding and staining. Do this even if you try to
mask.
Daughter now wants one, but I've got until the wedding in May to finish it.
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of
> "Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for
> those particular "colors" of wood, my friend?
>
> Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood!
>
> David
Y'know, both of those are designed to mimic the aged color of a couple of
different kinds of oak. Now if he was going green....
On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 11:55:07 -0500, the inscrutable Silvan
<[email protected]> spake:
>SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>
>> 2. In the future, don't follow Norm's advice (I rarely say that) and
>> use a sponge or wet cloth like he does. Let the glue squeeze and about
>> an hour later (depending on the weather), scrape it off witha chisel or
>> scraper.
>
>I'll second or third that one. Wiping the glue is a recipe for disaster
>IME. It just gets it way down deep into the wood and makes it almost
>impossible to clean up. This is evident at finishing time even if you
>don't stain, which, of course, I don't, being an official member of the
>Placating Larry Jacques Society. :)
After all this time, Silvie, you still misspell my name. <sigh>
--
People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but
most of the time they'll pick themselves up and carry on.
--anon
The problem with "Glazing" is the colour is only on the service of the
timber, hence any scratches or chips show the original colour.
By "Soaking" staining the raw timber you achieve a penetration of the
applied colour, thus meaning that chips and scratches have to be much
more severe to make themselves noticeable.
John
[email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 08:01:35 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of
>>"Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for
>>those particular "colors" of wood, my friend?
>
>
> see option (2)
>
>>Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood!
>
>
> glazing looks a lot better to my eye. stain absorbs unevenly, and
> usually it's the light grain that absorbs more, so the color reverses.
> just looks cheap and fake to me.
>
>
>
>
>>David
>>
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>>1) use the right color of wood to start with. don't stain.
>>>2) glaze instead of stain. put the color between coats of finish, not
>>>soaked into the wood.
>
>
3M blue masking tape.
David
stoutman wrote:
> I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board
> I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in
> between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and
> sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
>
:)
David
George wrote:
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of
>>"Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for
>>those particular "colors" of wood, my friend?
>>
>>Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood!
>>
>>David
>
>
> Y'know, both of those are designed to mimic the aged color of a couple of
> different kinds of oak. Now if he was going green....
>
>
If you knew better techniques, you wouldn't think that staining equals
uneveness, even on blotch prone woods.
David
[email protected] wrote:
>
> glazing looks a lot better to my eye. stain absorbs unevenly, and
> usually it's the light grain that absorbs more, so the color reverses.
> just looks cheap and fake to me.
>
>
>
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> 2. In the future, don't follow Norm's advice (I rarely say that) and
> use a sponge or wet cloth like he does. Let the glue squeeze and about
> an hour later (depending on the weather), scrape it off witha chisel or
> scraper.
Think snots.
When the glue gets to the consistency of snot, it's easily zipped off
with the chisel or scraper.
Barry
Try the less is more approach, many folks don't glue the slats. I personally
would stay outta the tape business as what you're talking about would be as
much a pain in the hiney as the glue. You may think about very minimal
gorilla glue, I mean minimal! if there is any foam out it is easily cleaned
up with a sharp chisel.
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm not talking about blotch. I'm talking about the difference of
>> absorption between late wood and early wood. one is generally harder,
>> darker and less porous (can't remember which is which...). the
>> lighter, more porous grain absorbs more stain and ends up darker. the
>> result, to my eye is unnatural and unattractive. YMMV.
On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 08:37:24 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Unnatural"? :) Wood, by it's very nature is NATURAL. If you want
>eveness, use plastic or paint.
>
>David
Dave, you were doing well for a while there. I was really happy to see
you drop the B.A.D. boy act.
too good to last, I guess.
Some wipe off the excess when it's still wet using a wet cloth. This works,
but can thin the glue and spread it around resulting it what you're seeing.
If possible, let the squeeze out set up to the point where it's almost, but
not quite dry. Then you can scrape the "chunks" off using a sharp chisel.
Good luck
Rob
--
http://www.robswoodworking.com
"stoutman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head
board
> I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was
in
> between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and
> sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>
>>
>> glazing looks a lot better to my eye. stain absorbs unevenly, and
>> usually it's the light grain that absorbs more, so the color reverses.
>> just looks cheap and fake to me.
>>
On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:45:35 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>If you knew better techniques, you wouldn't think that staining equals
>uneveness, even on blotch prone woods.
>
>David
I'm not talking about blotch. I'm talking about the difference of
absorption between late wood and early wood. one is generally harder,
darker and less porous (can't remember which is which...). the
lighter, more porous grain absorbs more stain and ends up darker. the
result, to my eye is unnatural and unattractive. YMMV.
On 23 Jan 2005 23:01:00 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>What in your answer is going to help the OP? He didn't ask for your
>opinion about staining. Is there always "the right color of wood"? If
>so why have people been staining or otherwise coloring wood for
>centuries? If he decided to "glaze" or tone instead of staining the
>glue squeeze out would still be visible, would it not?
I assume you're talking to me.
as far as cleaning up his current situation, he's on the right track.
scrape, sand, try to blend the stain.
most of the stains on the market are made to either fake up one wood
to look like another or simulate the effects of age. what the hell is
wrong with an honest piece of wood?
a little glue squeezeout- especially down in the wood rather than a
glob on the surface- is a lot less visible under a glaze.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 23 Jan 2005 23:01:00 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >What in your answer is going to help the OP? He didn't ask for your
> >opinion about staining. Is there always "the right color of wood"? If
> >so why have people been staining or otherwise coloring wood for
> >centuries? If he decided to "glaze" or tone instead of staining the
> >glue squeeze out would still be visible, would it not?
>
>
> I assume you're talking to me.
>
> as far as cleaning up his current situation, he's on the right track.
> scrape, sand, try to blend the stain.
I would think that the correct track would be to try and prevent it in the
first place.
>
> most of the stains on the market are made to either fake up one wood
> to look like another or simulate the effects of age. what the hell is
> wrong with an honest piece of wood?
Perhaps some of us don't have an endless supply of money or don't want to
deal with the characteristics of some wood types.
>
> a little glue squeezeout- especially down in the wood rather than a
> glob on the surface- is a lot less visible under a glaze.
--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 02:37:17 GMT, "stoutman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I made a mission bed and inbetween the slats on the footboard and head board
>I have glue leakage. I applied my stain and I can see where the glue was in
>between the slats. I have spent the last few hours trying to scrape and
>sand in between the slats. How do you guys prevent this problem? Any
>suggestions?
>
>Thanks
>
1) use the right color of wood to start with. don't stain.
2) glaze instead of stain. put the color between coats of finish, not
soaked into the wood.
On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 08:01:35 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of
>"Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for
>those particular "colors" of wood, my friend?
see option (2)
>
>Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood!
glazing looks a lot better to my eye. stain absorbs unevenly, and
usually it's the light grain that absorbs more, so the color reverses.
just looks cheap and fake to me.
>
>David
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>
>> 1) use the right color of wood to start with. don't stain.
>> 2) glaze instead of stain. put the color between coats of finish, not
>> soaked into the wood.
On 23 Jan 2005 20:50:38 -0800, the inscrutable "Phil at small (vs at
large)" <[email protected]> spake:
>Found some 2" blue masking tape at big lots for 2.99 for 2 rolls--
>works just like the 3M brand but is WAY cheaper. I'm going back for
>more tomorrow-- bet they're out.
The Dollar Tree has 2" regular masking tape for a buck. If you're
only using it for glueup time, regular tape works just fine. Don't
leave it on for a few weeks, though.
--
People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but
most of the time they'll pick themselves up and carry on.
--anon
Hmmm...last time I checked at the lumberyard they were all out of
"Golden Oak" oak and "Revival" oak. Could you point me to a source for
those particular "colors" of wood, my friend?
Imagine wooddorkers having the nerve to "soak" stain into their wood!
David
[email protected] wrote:
> 1) use the right color of wood to start with. don't stain.
> 2) glaze instead of stain. put the color between coats of finish, not
> soaked into the wood.