I needed to make some kind of froofy storage for my chess pieces. One
thought was to just Forstner some holes in a block, and leave the pieces
standing up inside the rather large box I built. I also considered various
trace/cutout routes designed to have the pieces lay flat.
After I put the velvet in the box, the flat idea won out. I spent a couple
of hours fooling around with ways to get the cutouts made with the tools I
had available (no scrollsaw or bandsaw, and my jigsaw is pretty lame...)
including trying to hog out some shapes with paring chisels.
I was getting pretty frustrated with my results, and was about to give up
when I had a marvelous idea.
I cut two boards at king height, and two boards at pawn height, both to the
width required to fit into my box. I bored and marked sizing holes in a
piece of scrap. I determined what size bit to use for the bases, then I
picked out the best fit for the widest part of each piece, with the king
requiring a third size for the cross.
After picking my bits, I clamped two of the king boards together. I laid
out the pieces by eyeball for the best fit, then traced them. I set up a
fence to ensure that I would be going precisely down the center. Next, I
bored the base holes first, taking care to use backup blocks and to keep a
pair of clamps right where the action was. After boring down until the
Forstner bit was flush with the wood surface, I switched to all the
secondary bits in turn, using the dimple from the first bit as a reference.
I determined the depth I needed by frequently test fitting. Once I could
drop a piece of the correct type into the hole with 1/16" of extra space at
the bottom, I set the depth adjustment on my drill press so that I could
bore the other hole(s) to the same depth. I continued in this fashion
until I had bored holes for all the pieces, and then I repeated the process
for the pawns.
I went back with a chisel and made some minor adjustments to the spaces for
the king and knights. Then I cut off a bottom piece, bored holes for a
couple of dowels in each set of trays, then glued and clamped everything
together. When the glue was dry, I planed both trays to roughly level up
the surface.
Then I made judicious use of Aileen's tacky glue and carefully attached some
red velvet. After doing this, I realized that the edges looked stupid. I
had cut them too close to size to have room for even a 1/4" tray
surrounding them, so I made little edge wrappers out of aluminum angle
iron.
I didn't get all the wrinkles out of the velvet. The pieces protrude a bit
more than I would have liked, and these recesses don't have the sharp,
form-fitting look I could have achieved with one of the sawing methods.
Brass would have been better, and it would look better if I hadn't had to
pop rivet corner pieces on, but all in all they look pretty damn
presentable in spite of the flaws. I open up this box and I can't believe
I actually MADE this thing. It looks awesome!
Best of all, I think spending two weeks making a chess set (well, all but
the pieces) has done wonders for my game. I slaughtered Dad tonight,
trying out my new baby. It's about damn time!
I'm going to borrow a digital camera tomorrow and post some pictures. I
don't have shots of the work in progress, but I'll photograph some early
prototypes to put some pictures behind these words.
Anybody with a scroll or other suitable curvy cutting saw would probably do
better to use a more traditional method for this, but if all you have is a
drill press and some Forstner bits (or spade bits, hole saws, etc...) then
this technique yields pretty impressive results IMHO.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Fri, Oct 10, 2003, 10:12pm [email protected] (Silvan)
says:
<snip> Anybody with a scroll or other suitable curvy cutting saw would
probably do better to use a more traditional method for this, <snip>
Sorry, I've got a scroll saw, but I probably wouldn't have used it.
I just don't think like the rest of you. I'd maybe have made something
with little dividers. Then a batch of playdough.
http://www.mcps.k12.md.us/curriculum/pep/playdo.htm Some playdough in
each section, press an appropriate chess piece in, making a form fit.
Let it set for a few days and it hardens up, or I believe you can bake
playdough a bit, to harden it. You can color it when it's made, put
velvet over it, or flock it. Could either tack a strip of elastic
across to hold the men in place, or have a box with a cover lined with
foam rubber to hold them in place. Of course, you can use that method
with anything you want to make a custom, form-fitting, case for.
You've got a lot of leeway, because it wont set up for quite awhile.
You can make it for your kids too, just as good as the store-bought
stuff, and one Hell of a lot cheaper, even if you make it in large
amounts.
JOAT
There must be a hundred silver dollars in here. I can't handle that sort
o' money, you've gotta be in the league of lawyers to steal that much.
- J. H. "Flannelfoot" Boggis
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 9 Oct 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
A way I read about not too long ago to store them in the drawer of a
board box was to use molding pieces (the proper term escapes me) - the
molding would be similar to taking a 1x1 piece of stock for instance,
drilling down the center lengthwise with a forstner bit, then cutting
lengthwise into 2 pieces - glueing them side by side into the drawer,
then covering with velvet. A small dowel pin was used as a means of
keeping the short pieces from sliding along the length of the molding.
Silvan wrote:
> I needed to make some kind of froofy storage for my chess pieces. One
> thought was to just Forstner some holes in a block, and leave the pieces
> standing up inside the rather large box I built. I also considered various
> trace/cutout routes designed to have the pieces lay flat.