JJ

29/01/2006 7:56 PM

ZERO-CLEARANCE TOP

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip020419sn.html?1009130201181825

Interesting.



JOAT
You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and
it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.


This topic has 4 replies

Do

"Don"

in reply to [email protected] (J T) on 29/01/2006 7:56 PM

04/02/2006 3:24 AM

"J T"> wrote
> http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip020419sn.html?1009130201181825
>
> Interesting.

Now I like that.
Its one of those things that makes you say, "Why didn't I think of that?"
Just 2 caveats.
1) You lose 1/4" of sawblade depth and,
2) I don't think I'd rely on the double stick tape to hold it down, when
raising the blade.
After the slot is cut the double stick will probably work fine.
But while cutting the slot I think additional *down* pressure would be
required.

Hell, if you use a piece of 24" wide hardboard, and move it over about 1"
each time you cut a new slot......it would last quite awhile.

Cs

"CW"

in reply to [email protected] (J T) on 29/01/2006 7:56 PM

04/02/2006 5:10 AM

Don't underestimate the tape. I've taped aluminum blocks to milling machine
tables for milling. Never had one come loose. Clean the table first. The wax
that most have on their table doesn't promote adhesion.
"Don" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "J T"> wrote
> > http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip020419sn.html?1009130201181825
> >
> > Interesting.
>
> Now I like that.
> Its one of those things that makes you say, "Why didn't I think of that?"
> Just 2 caveats.
> 1) You lose 1/4" of sawblade depth and,
> 2) I don't think I'd rely on the double stick tape to hold it down, when
> raising the blade.
> After the slot is cut the double stick will probably work fine.
> But while cutting the slot I think additional *down* pressure would be
> required.
>
> Hell, if you use a piece of 24" wide hardboard, and move it over about 1"
> each time you cut a new slot......it would last quite awhile.
>
>

Do

"Don"

in reply to [email protected] (J T) on 29/01/2006 7:56 PM

04/02/2006 5:55 AM


"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Don't underestimate the tape.

Yep.
I'd try it.
But I'd also be ready for a 2nd means too.

I've taped aluminum blocks to milling machine
> tables for milling. Never had one come loose. Clean the table first. The
> wax
> that most have on their table doesn't promote adhesion.
> "Don" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "J T"> wrote
>> > http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip020419sn.html?1009130201181825
>> >
>> > Interesting.
>>
>> Now I like that.
>> Its one of those things that makes you say, "Why didn't I think of that?"
>> Just 2 caveats.
>> 1) You lose 1/4" of sawblade depth and,
>> 2) I don't think I'd rely on the double stick tape to hold it down, when
>> raising the blade.
>> After the slot is cut the double stick will probably work fine.
>> But while cutting the slot I think additional *down* pressure would be
>> required.
>>
>> Hell, if you use a piece of 24" wide hardboard, and move it over about 1"
>> each time you cut a new slot......it would last quite awhile.
>>
>>
>
>

WB

"Wood Butcher"

in reply to [email protected] (J T) on 29/01/2006 7:56 PM

29/01/2006 7:58 PM

I like this one. It's a fast & cheap alternative for those
times when my ZCI's slot is too long and I need to cross
cut HW ply with those infernally thin skins.
Thanks.

Art

"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip020419sn.html?1009130201181825
>
> Interesting.
>
>
>
> JOAT
> You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and
> it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
>


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