x-no-archive:yes
I got my straight cutting bits out that had bears on them trying to
understand jointing a board with the router. I am trying to understand
how I keep the bearing on the metal straigtedge and the cutter only on
the wood to be joined if that makes sense. The bearing on mine seem to
be the same diamter as the cutter and it looks like to me the cutter
could cut into the straight edge. Or am I missing something?
I am also going to try again to make a shim for the router fence. I
took it off and brought it to work to try to see if I can fabricate
soem sort of shim around 1/32 of an inch.
x-no-archive:yes
What is the idea thickness? Seems someone told me 1/32 on here.
dadiOH wrote:
> stryped wrote:
> > x-no-archive:yes
> >
> > I got my straight cutting bits out that had bears on them trying to
> > understand jointing a board with the router. I am trying to
> > understand how I keep the bearing on the metal straigtedge and the
> > cutter only on the wood to be joined if that makes sense. The
> > bearing on mine seem to be the same diamter as the cutter and it
> > looks like to me the cutter could cut into the straight edge. Or am
> > I missing something?
>
> You are missing the fact that the bearing rides on the straight edge
> which is on top of or under your work piece and the cutter cuts the
> wood. Stated another way, the cutter never comes into contact with
> the straight edge because an astute user sets the protrusion of the
> bit that way.
> _______________
>
> > I am also going to try again to make a shim for the router fence. I
> > took it off and brought it to work to try to see if I can fabricate
> > soem sort of shim around 1/32 of an inch.
>
> Try...
> 1. A 1/2-3/4 wide strip of formica, about 1/16
> 2. 7 strips of masking tape (one on top of another), about 1/32.
> 3. A strip of wood, whatever
> 4. A strip of chipboard (cardboard), depends
> 5. An aluminum yardstick, about 1/8
>
> All except the strips of masking tape require a piece of double sided
> tape on the back of the shim so it can be stuck to the fence.
> Alternatively, the double sided tape could be applied to the fence so
> the shim could be stuck to it. So many possibilities for
> over-engineering...:)
>
>
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
x-no-archive:yes
I have both the bearing on top and the bottom.
You think it is worth 250: I am about 30 minutes from Scottsvillr/
Tim Taylor wrote:
> "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > x-no-archive:yes
> >
> > I got my straight cutting bits out that had bears on them trying to
> > understand jointing a board with the router. I am trying to understand
> > how I keep the bearing on the metal straigtedge and the cutter only on
> > the wood to be joined if that makes sense. The bearing on mine seem to
> > be the same diamter as the cutter and it looks like to me the cutter
> > could cut into the straight edge. Or am I missing something?
> >
> > I am also going to try again to make a shim for the router fence. I
> > took it off and brought it to work to try to see if I can fabricate
> > soem sort of shim around 1/32 of an inch.
> >
> Stryped, I was just perusing Craigslist and went to the Nashville listing.
> There's a guy down in Scottsville that has a newer orange Ridgid jointer for
> 250 bucks. Don't know how close you are to Scottsville, but it might be
> worth a trip if you could pick it up for a couple hundred. He's got a few
> other things too.
> As far as your trimming bit goes, does your bit have the bearing closest to
> the router base?
I've only ever seen a router used a a jointer in conjunction with a
fence - with the router mounted on a table. The idea is that the
out-feed side of the fence is set slightly forward (toward the bit and
even with it) of the infeed. This arrangement looks like a
conventional jointer, but in a vertical configuration - and with a much
smaller cutting head. ;) Since the fence supports the material the
bearing isn't necessary.
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/rtrplnr.htm
Good luck.
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I have both the bearing on top and the bottom.
>
> You think it is worth 250: I am about 30 minutes from Scottsvillr/
> Tim Taylor wrote:
> > "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > x-no-archive:yes
> > >
> > > I got my straight cutting bits out that had bears on them trying to
> > > understand jointing a board with the router. I am trying to understand
> > > how I keep the bearing on the metal straigtedge and the cutter only on
> > > the wood to be joined if that makes sense. The bearing on mine seem to
> > > be the same diamter as the cutter and it looks like to me the cutter
> > > could cut into the straight edge. Or am I missing something?
> > >
> > > I am also going to try again to make a shim for the router fence. I
> > > took it off and brought it to work to try to see if I can fabricate
> > > soem sort of shim around 1/32 of an inch.
> > >
> > Stryped, I was just perusing Craigslist and went to the Nashville listing.
> > There's a guy down in Scottsville that has a newer orange Ridgid jointer for
> > 250 bucks. Don't know how close you are to Scottsville, but it might be
> > worth a trip if you could pick it up for a couple hundred. He's got a few
> > other things too.
> > As far as your trimming bit goes, does your bit have the bearing closest to
> > the router base?
x-no-archive:yes
But no bits I have will cover 2 inches of material? AM I missing
something?
Al wrote:
> "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in news:1157632670.894924.174190
> @i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
>
> > x-no-archive:yes
> >
> > I got my straight cutting bits out that had bears on them trying to
> > understand jointing a board with the router. I am trying to understand
> > how I keep the bearing on the metal straigtedge and the cutter only on
> > the wood to be joined if that makes sense. The bearing on mine seem to
> > be the same diamter as the cutter and it looks like to me the cutter
> > could cut into the straight edge. Or am I missing something?
> >
> > I am also going to try again to make a shim for the router fence. I
> > took it off and brought it to work to try to see if I can fabricate
> > soem sort of shim around 1/32 of an inch.
> >
>
> Clamp the two boards edge to edge. Use a straight bit with no pilot
> bearing and freehand Once down the edge cutting both boards simultaneously.
> Any concave on the left board will have a matching convex on the right
> board. The joint may be slightly off straight but it will be tight.
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I got my straight cutting bits out that had bears on them trying to
> understand jointing a board with the router. I am trying to understand
> how I keep the bearing on the metal straigtedge and the cutter only on
> the wood to be joined if that makes sense. The bearing on mine seem to
> be the same diamter as the cutter and it looks like to me the cutter
> could cut into the straight edge. Or am I missing something?
>
> I am also going to try again to make a shim for the router fence. I
> took it off and brought it to work to try to see if I can fabricate
> soem sort of shim around 1/32 of an inch.
>
Stryped, I was just perusing Craigslist and went to the Nashville listing.
There's a guy down in Scottsville that has a newer orange Ridgid jointer for
250 bucks. Don't know how close you are to Scottsville, but it might be
worth a trip if you could pick it up for a couple hundred. He's got a few
other things too.
As far as your trimming bit goes, does your bit have the bearing closest to
the router base?
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I got my straight cutting bits out that had bears on them trying to
> understand jointing a board with the router. I am trying to
> understand how I keep the bearing on the metal straigtedge and the
> cutter only on the wood to be joined if that makes sense. The
> bearing on mine seem to be the same diamter as the cutter and it
> looks like to me the cutter could cut into the straight edge. Or am
> I missing something?
You are missing the fact that the bearing rides on the straight edge
which is on top of or under your work piece and the cutter cuts the
wood. Stated another way, the cutter never comes into contact with
the straight edge because an astute user sets the protrusion of the
bit that way.
_______________
> I am also going to try again to make a shim for the router fence. I
> took it off and brought it to work to try to see if I can fabricate
> soem sort of shim around 1/32 of an inch.
Try...
1. A 1/2-3/4 wide strip of formica, about 1/16
2. 7 strips of masking tape (one on top of another), about 1/32.
3. A strip of wood, whatever
4. A strip of chipboard (cardboard), depends
5. An aluminum yardstick, about 1/8
All except the strips of masking tape require a piece of double sided
tape on the back of the shim so it can be stuck to the fence.
Alternatively, the double sided tape could be applied to the fence so
the shim could be stuck to it. So many possibilities for
over-engineering...:)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Tht only works if you don't wander to far from strait. Better to use a
straitedge guide.
"Al" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Clamp the two boards edge to edge. Use a straight bit with no pilot
> bearing and freehand Once down the edge cutting both boards
simultaneously.
> Any concave on the left board will have a matching convex on the right
> board. The joint may be slightly off straight but it will be tight.
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in news:1157632670.894924.174190
@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> I got my straight cutting bits out that had bears on them trying to
> understand jointing a board with the router. I am trying to understand
> how I keep the bearing on the metal straigtedge and the cutter only on
> the wood to be joined if that makes sense. The bearing on mine seem to
> be the same diamter as the cutter and it looks like to me the cutter
> could cut into the straight edge. Or am I missing something?
>
> I am also going to try again to make a shim for the router fence. I
> took it off and brought it to work to try to see if I can fabricate
> soem sort of shim around 1/32 of an inch.
>
Clamp the two boards edge to edge. Use a straight bit with no pilot
bearing and freehand Once down the edge cutting both boards simultaneously.
Any concave on the left board will have a matching convex on the right
board. The joint may be slightly off straight but it will be tight.