I just finished making a bathroom cabinet. Construction is birch ply
panels with poplar for trim work. SWMBO wants it painted to sort of
complement the floor tile. Are there any paints that are particularly
good for this. I prefer water based and will spray with a 4 stage
turbine. How about paint with a couple of coats of lacquer on top?
Somebody on the rec suggested milk paint in an earlier discussion.
Len
On Oct 25, 1:21=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> While you may prefer water based I strongly suggest an alkyd oil based
> paint. =A0Water based tends to soften up in a warm humid environment like=
a
> bathroom.
Once again, I agree with Leon.
If you are willing to spray lacquer, water or solvent based, just
spray the alkyd and be done with it. A prime coat of BIN, the two of
oil based gloss/semi gloss enamel and you will have a finish that
should last 20 years in a bathroom.
And you can easily get the color you want, too.
Robert
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> [email protected] wrote:
> > I just finished making a bathroom cabinet. Construction is birch ply
> > panels with poplar for trim work. SWMBO wants it painted to sort of
> > complement the floor tile. Are there any paints that are particularly
> > good for this. I prefer water based and will spray with a 4 stage
> > turbine. How about paint with a couple of coats of lacquer on top?
> > Somebody on the rec suggested milk paint in an earlier discussion.
>
>
> Lacquer will eat the paint. Use poly on top of the paint; water base if you
> don't want the slight yellow from oil base. IMO, it would be simpler to use
> oil base paint from the git-go and skip the poly.
I don't see the original post.
It's the 21st Century. "Waterborne" and "water-based" are not the same
and there are many waterborne finishes that hold up fine when exposed to
water. In fact some modern automotive finishes are waterborne. So no
real need for oil based paint.
Pick a good brand of waterborne polyurethane and shoot that and you're
done. No topcoat needed.
Or since he's set up with a good spray rig and can handle lacquer
without gassing himself or blowing the place up, a precatalyzed lacquer
would be another good option.
M. L. Campbell has both. And compatible topcoats and primers.
In article <[email protected]>, lcb11211
@swbell.dotnet says...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I just finished making a bathroom cabinet. Construction is birch ply
> > panels with poplar for trim work. SWMBO wants it painted to sort of
> > complement the floor tile. Are there any paints that are particularly
> > good for this. I prefer water based and will spray with a 4 stage
> > turbine. How about paint with a couple of coats of lacquer on top?
> > Somebody on the rec suggested milk paint in an earlier discussion.
> >
> > Len
>
>
> While you may prefer water based I strongly suggest an alkyd oil based
> paint. Water based tends to soften up in a warm humid environment like a
> bathroom.
Latex will. Waterborne polyurethane is a different story.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just finished making a bathroom cabinet. Construction is birch ply
> panels with poplar for trim work. SWMBO wants it painted to sort of
> complement the floor tile. Are there any paints that are particularly
> good for this. I prefer water based and will spray with a 4 stage
> turbine. How about paint with a couple of coats of lacquer on top?
> Somebody on the rec suggested milk paint in an earlier discussion.
>
> Len
While you may prefer water based I strongly suggest an alkyd oil based
paint. Water based tends to soften up in a warm humid environment like a
bathroom.
[email protected] wrote:
> I just finished making a bathroom cabinet. Construction is birch ply
> panels with poplar for trim work. SWMBO wants it painted to sort of
> complement the floor tile. Are there any paints that are particularly
> good for this. I prefer water based and will spray with a 4 stage
> turbine. How about paint with a couple of coats of lacquer on top?
> Somebody on the rec suggested milk paint in an earlier discussion.
Lacquer will eat the paint. Use poly on top of the paint; water base if you
don't want the slight yellow from oil base. IMO, it would be simpler to use
oil base paint from the git-go and skip the poly.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 11:18:07 -0400, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> I just finished making a bathroom cabinet. Construction is birch ply
>> panels with poplar for trim work. SWMBO wants it painted to sort of
>> complement the floor tile. Are there any paints that are particularly
>> good for this. I prefer water based and will spray with a 4 stage
>> turbine. How about paint with a couple of coats of lacquer on top?
>> Somebody on the rec suggested milk paint in an earlier discussion.
>
>
>Lacquer will eat the paint. Use poly on top of the paint; water base if you
>don't want the slight yellow from oil base. IMO, it would be simpler to use
>oil base paint from the git-go and skip the poly.
FWIW, I've seen some others comment that with an oil based paint,
there is no reason to topcoat with poly or whatever.
Agreed, but I can say that I've done some clear topcoat over paint and
there is a distinctly different look, that I happen to like. However I
used shellac, not poly, which is probably not the best choice in a
bathroom. Try it first with a sample to see what you think.
On 10/25/2010 10:18 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>> I just finished making a bathroom cabinet. Construction is birch ply
>> panels with poplar for trim work. SWMBO wants it painted to sort of
>> complement the floor tile. Are there any paints that are particularly
>> good for this. I prefer water based and will spray with a 4 stage
>> turbine. How about paint with a couple of coats of lacquer on top?
>> Somebody on the rec suggested milk paint in an earlier discussion.
>
>
> Lacquer will eat the paint. Use poly on top of the paint; water base if you
> don't want the slight yellow from oil base. IMO, it would be simpler to use
> oil base paint from the git-go and skip the poly.
Nor is lacquer (the regular nitrocellulose variety) the greatest choice for wet
environments like a bathroom.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/