Hi all
In the next month or so I am going to lift the foor boards in the lounge and
straighten the edges and then re-lay them.
My question is this would you do it any other way?
I'm planning to take each floorboard Screw a straight edge on to the back of
the floorboard and then run a router up against the straight edge to give me
a nice edge. Then working from the other side of the straight edge I will
straighten up the other edge.
This will enable me to screw the straight edge onto the board whilst working
on it and when it's removed the holes will be on the underside of the board.
Any suggestions on making sure that the following board is the same width
would be welcome. I'm currently planning to measure and use the straight
edge technique on all boards. Is there a better way?
Here's a link to a picture for you to see the type of problem I have.
http://www.songcity.co.uk/MyPictures/Floorboards1.jpg The largest part of
the gap is about 1 inch
Many thanks for any replys.
Martin
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:FsuCf.536$K17.178@trnddc03...
>
> Keep in mind that commercial, solid wood floor boards do *NOT* touch
> adjacent boards except for a small area at the tops; i.e., the edges are
> not perpendicular to the faces.
>
Why is that?
Martin Noakes wrote:
> Hi all
>
> In the next month or so I am going to lift the foor boards in the
> lounge and straighten the edges and then re-lay them.
>
> My question is this would you do it any other way?
>
> I'm planning to take each floorboard Screw a straight edge on to the
> back of the floorboard and then run a router up against the straight
> edge to give me a nice edge. Then working from the other side of the
> straight edge I will straighten up the other edge.
>
> This will enable me to screw the straight edge onto the board whilst
> working on it and when it's removed the holes will be on the
> underside of the board.
>
> Any suggestions on making sure that the following board is the same
> width would be welcome. I'm currently planning to measure and use the
> straight edge technique on all boards. Is there a better way?
Any tool that will index one side from the other would work. That
includes table saws, planers, drum sanders, etc. However, you would
either have to do all boards at one time or set up the tool and not
change it until all were done if you were doing a few at a time.
You could also do it with a hand router with a bearing bit and a
template of the desired width.
Keep in mind that commercial, solid wood floor boards do *NOT* touch
adjacent boards except for a small area at the tops; i.e., the edges are
not perpendicular to the faces.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Fantastic tips
thank you for that
Martin
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:FsuCf.536$K17.178@trnddc03...
> Martin Noakes wrote:
> > Hi all
> >
> > In the next month or so I am going to lift the foor boards in the
> > lounge and straighten the edges and then re-lay them.
> >
> > My question is this would you do it any other way?
> >
> > I'm planning to take each floorboard Screw a straight edge on to the
> > back of the floorboard and then run a router up against the straight
> > edge to give me a nice edge. Then working from the other side of the
> > straight edge I will straighten up the other edge.
> >
> > This will enable me to screw the straight edge onto the board whilst
> > working on it and when it's removed the holes will be on the
> > underside of the board.
> >
> > Any suggestions on making sure that the following board is the same
> > width would be welcome. I'm currently planning to measure and use the
> > straight edge technique on all boards. Is there a better way?
>
> Any tool that will index one side from the other would work. That
> includes table saws, planers, drum sanders, etc. However, you would
> either have to do all boards at one time or set up the tool and not
> change it until all were done if you were doing a few at a time.
>
> You could also do it with a hand router with a bearing bit and a
> template of the desired width.
>
> Keep in mind that commercial, solid wood floor boards do *NOT* touch
> adjacent boards except for a small area at the tops; i.e., the edges are
> not perpendicular to the faces.
>
>
> --
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>
Not at the moment, but I'm prepared to buy one if I need to.
Cheers
Martin
"Josh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do you have a table saw? After you straighten one edge, you can rip
> all the boards to equal width on the TS.
>
"Locutus" <[email protected]> writes:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:FsuCf.536$K17.178@trnddc03...
>>
>> Keep in mind that commercial, solid wood floor boards do *NOT* touch
>> adjacent boards except for a small area at the tops; i.e., the edges are
>> not perpendicular to the faces.
>>
>
>
> Why is that?
To cope with expansion of the board if they get more humid.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23