Hi Guys,
I hate to come around only when I have a question, but I confess I haven't even
been lurking I've been so swamped.
Now, the question....
Didn't I see once upon time here mention of an alternative conveyor belt for the
Performax? I did a Google search on the group and I've searched the web, but I
didn't turn up anything.
My problem is that many times I use my thickness sander to take woods down from
4mm to 2.2mm (.090) sometimes even less. After the material passes through, the
drum skins the conveyor and in very short time they are too slick to pull the
workpiece through. I tried making the conveyor really snug, but that didn't
help at all. I can't just lift the drum or I risk making a mistake on the next
pass. Some of my guitar builder buddies make carrier boards that ride on the
belt and the piece to be sanded gets passed through on top of the boards, but
frankly a day of lifting a 5/8' baltic ply workboard 18x22 is more than I can
do! I have worn out three conveyor belts now, and I'm about through the fourth.
Other than running a piece of garbage wood on the heels of the piece I'm working
on, I'm out of ideas. Have you heard of an alternative conveyor or did I dream
that? Does anyone know of a way to renew these things?
Thanks for listening,
Kathy
Kathy Wingert Guitars
Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
Hello Kathy,
I do not have a Performax, so forgive me if my suggestions are silly. I do
know something about conveyors however. It seems that .090 should be plenty
of clearance between belt and drum. Unless the conveyor belt is not riding
the slider bed, or unless the drum head is flexing upward during sanding and
dropping down after the workpiece is gone. This second problem is what
causes snipe on portable planers.
I suspect the belt is not riding the slider bed, because you tried to fix it
by tightening the belt. If so, could you add something to the top of the
slider bed? A piece of 1/8" UHMW sheet for example between bed and belt?
Or perhaps the end rollers are not level with the slider bed. Is there an
adjustment for that?
If the drum head is flexing, well I don't know the machine well enough to
suggest a fix for that except taking very, very light passes.
Bill Pounds
http://www.bill.pounds.net/woodshop
"Kathy Wingert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Guys,
>
> I hate to come around only when I have a question, but I confess I haven't
even
> been lurking I've been so swamped.
>
> Now, the question....
>
> Didn't I see once upon time here mention of an alternative conveyor belt
for the
> Performax? I did a Google search on the group and I've searched the web,
but I
> didn't turn up anything.
>
> My problem is that many times I use my thickness sander to take woods down
from
> 4mm to 2.2mm (.090) sometimes even less. After the material passes
through, the
> drum skins the conveyor and in very short time they are too slick to pull
the
> workpiece through. I tried making the conveyor really snug, but that
didn't
> help at all. I can't just lift the drum or I risk making a mistake on the
next
> pass. Some of my guitar builder buddies make carrier boards that ride on
the
> belt and the piece to be sanded gets passed through on top of the boards,
but
> frankly a day of lifting a 5/8' baltic ply workboard 18x22 is more than I
can
> do! I have worn out three conveyor belts now, and I'm about through the
fourth.
>
> Other than running a piece of garbage wood on the heels of the piece I'm
working
> on, I'm out of ideas. Have you heard of an alternative conveyor or did I
dream
> that? Does anyone know of a way to renew these things?
>
> Thanks for listening,
> Kathy
>
> Kathy Wingert Guitars
> Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
>
Sorry I cant help you with your question. I just want to say I visited your
web site and your work is truly wonderful. You sure do beautiful work.
Leo
>Hi Guys,
>
>I hate to come around only when I have a question, but I confess I haven't
>even
>been lurking I've been so swamped.
>
>Now, the question....
>
>Didn't I see once upon time here mention of an alternative conveyor belt for
>the
>Performax? I did a Google search on the group and I've searched the web, but
>I
>didn't turn up anything.
>
>My problem is that many times I use my thickness sander to take woods down
>from
>4mm to 2.2mm (.090) sometimes even less. After the material passes through,
>the
>drum skins the conveyor and in very short time they are too slick to pull the
>workpiece through. I tried making the conveyor really snug, but that didn't
>help at all. I can't just lift the drum or I risk making a mistake on the
>next
>pass. Some of my guitar builder buddies make carrier boards that ride on the
>belt and the piece to be sanded gets passed through on top of the boards, but
>frankly a day of lifting a 5/8' baltic ply workboard 18x22 is more than I can
>do! I have worn out three conveyor belts now, and I'm about through the
>fourth.
>
>Other than running a piece of garbage wood on the heels of the piece I'm
>working
>on, I'm out of ideas. Have you heard of an alternative conveyor or did I
>dream
>that? Does anyone know of a way to renew these things?
>
>Thanks for listening,
>Kathy
>
>Kathy Wingert Guitars
>Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
>
> Some of my guitar builder buddies make carrier boards that ride on the
> belt and the piece to be sanded gets passed through on top of the boards, but
> frankly a day of lifting a 5/8' baltic ply workboard 18x22 is more than I can
> do!
I use backing boards with my performax and the weight isn't
overwhelming at all. 1/2" lightweight MDF at about 16"x 22" should be
fine for guitar backs. The lightweight MDF is a bit more expensive
than regular MDF, but it's WAY lighter. 1/2" should be plenty thick
to stay flat, especially if you have the infeed and outfeed tables.
I use MDF and sometimes even particle board as a backer when sanding
dulcimer parts. I also take them down to 0.090" to 0.070".
Insert gloat of pride here:
http://www.brouelette.com/dulcimer/dulcimertour1.html
Another trick I use is that I glue my kerfed linings slightly proud of
the sides (As do all luthiers) and I put my dulcimer into this jig:
http://www.brouelette.com/dulcimer/images/dulcimerform1.jpg
and then run the whole thing through the performax to take the
kerfling down to the sides smoothly and absolutly flat. The 4 bolted
blocks you see on the jig are there for clamping end blocks. They
come off when going through the Performax.
BTW, my workshop page is here: http://www.brouelette.com/workshop.html
It's a bit smaller than yours. ;-) But I enjoy spending every minute
I can in there.
I'd also like to say that I've admired your work and your web site for
quite a while. It's nice to get a chance to chat with you.
Greg
Kathy Wingert <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Is "lightweight" MDF something other than what I would find at the Depot? That
> sounds like just the trick.
I get mine in San Diego at Hardwood & Hardware. The word "Ultra
Light" is stenciled on the edge. One 4x8 sheet of LightWeight MDF
weighs about 1/2 what a regular sheet does.
> Nice dulcimer design, btw. Thanks for sharing that.
>
> Being a builder using radiused tops on radiused sides, you made me jealous with
> your cool fixture for making your ribs flat!
>
> Kathy
Thank you very much. Wait until you see the spinning radius dish
sanding jig I'm going to build. Then you'll really be jealous. ;-)
Greg
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
> Is "lightweight" MDF something other than what I would find at the Depot? That
> sounds like just the trick.
>
>
Kathy,
I'm in Long Beach, and Long Beach Plywood just started carrying
"ultralight" mdf. I had been getting it from Reel Lumber in Anaheim. If
you try other cabinet lumber yards, you should be able to find it. It is
a much superior product than plain mdf: not only lighter, but much finer
textured internally, with a very smooth surface.
Kim
In article <[email protected]>, "Mike says...
>
>--
>In His Name, be Blessed,
>
>This is only a suggestion and I am not sure it will even work, but for such
>light cuts, the rubber on your belt has most likely hardened and need
>softening. I know that automotive break fluid is used to soften tires for
>more traction on cars and maybe it will work on your belt. You may also want
>to try the belt treatments used on drive belts such as the V-Belt. However
>there may be a draw-back of oil residue remaining on your belt which may be
>over come by wiping the belt down with Surface Planer wood chips. After
>treating your belt with the Break Fluid to soften the rubber surface and
>wiping it down with woodchips to get the oil off the belt, I would try a
>scrap piece of wood to make sure you got all the oil off the belt.. Just an
>idea mind you. Hope this helps.
>
>God Bless,
>
>Mike
>
Mike,
Thanks for that, and same to you!
The conveyor on the Performax is a wide sanding belt, looks like about 300 grit,
so your softening idea won't work. I wouldn't be able to handle any part of the
tool being contaminated with anything that messes with the finish process
because the parts come off the sander very close to the dimension they will be
when finished.
Kathy
Kathy Wingert Guitars
Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
In article <[email protected]>, "Bill says...
>
>I suspect the belt is not riding the slider bed, because you tried to fix it
>by tightening the belt. If so, could you add something to the top of the
>slider bed? A piece of 1/8" UHMW sheet for example between bed and belt?
>Or perhaps the end rollers are not level with the slider bed. Is there an
>adjustment for that?
>
Hmm.... you may be onto something there. That is something I can try. I may
have actually bent the rollers that tension the belt in my frustration which
accounts for the lousy way it all fits now. If I can figure out a more robust
tensioning roller with a mod to the table, all that will be left to do is find a
belt that is just the right size, but I suppose I can get them made... thanks
for the good thought.
Kathy
>
>"Kathy Wingert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hi Guys,
>>
>> I hate to come around only when I have a question, but I confess I haven't
>even
>> been lurking I've been so swamped.
>>
>> Now, the question....
>>
>> Didn't I see once upon time here mention of an alternative conveyor belt
>for the
>> Performax? I did a Google search on the group and I've searched the web,
>but I
>> didn't turn up anything.
>>
>> My problem is that many times I use my thickness sander to take woods down
>from
>> 4mm to 2.2mm (.090) sometimes even less. After the material passes
>through, the
>> drum skins the conveyor and in very short time they are too slick to pull
>the
>> workpiece through. I tried making the conveyor really snug, but that
>didn't
>> help at all. I can't just lift the drum or I risk making a mistake on the
>next
>> pass. Some of my guitar builder buddies make carrier boards that ride on
>the
>> belt and the piece to be sanded gets passed through on top of the boards,
>but
>> frankly a day of lifting a 5/8' baltic ply workboard 18x22 is more than I
>can
>> do! I have worn out three conveyor belts now, and I'm about through the
>fourth.
>>
>> Other than running a piece of garbage wood on the heels of the piece I'm
>working
>> on, I'm out of ideas. Have you heard of an alternative conveyor or did I
>dream
>> that? Does anyone know of a way to renew these things?
>>
>> Thanks for listening,
>> Kathy
>>
>> Kathy Wingert Guitars
>> Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
>>
>
>
Kathy Wingert Guitars
Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
In article <[email protected]>, "Bill says...
>
>Kathy, I was not implying that you bent anything. I meant that you may have
>noticed the belt was not riding the bed and that you reasoned that
>tightening the belt would correct it. In fact the rollers may not be level
>with the bed when shipped from the factory. I see how my comments were
>misleading. Sorry.
>
Hi Bill,
I think my comments mislead too! I was commenting on my
heavy-handed-I-know-I-shouldn't-make-this-this-tight adjustment as an addition
to the description of the mess I'm in.
I received an email privately from a lurker with a suggestion of a Klingspor
belt and a set of ceramic rollers as an upgrade. Somewhere in this combination
of ideas is a way to make this thing work more reliably.
I liked your site.
Kathy
>
Kathy Wingert Guitars
Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
In article <[email protected]>, Gene T says...
>
>Kathy,
>There is a polyurethane belt available for the 16/32 but it costs approx.
>$150.00. I you are having problems with your sander you may want to address
>them before sanding away an expensive belt. You may also want to try
>wrapping an old belt with duct or gaffers tape.
>Gene
Gene,
Thanks. I did run into one of those on a web search, but I couldn't find a
description of it anywhere. Do you know anything about it? My Performax is
actually a 22-44, btw. I think it is adjusted about as well as it can be, I mic
the materials as they come out, and it's very consistent side to side.
Kathy
Kathy Wingert Guitars
Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
In article <[email protected]>, Greg B says...
>
>> Some of my guitar builder buddies make carrier boards that ride on the
>> belt and the piece to be sanded gets passed through on top of the boards, but
>> frankly a day of lifting a 5/8' baltic ply workboard 18x22 is more than I can
>> do!
>
>I use backing boards with my performax and the weight isn't
>overwhelming at all. 1/2" lightweight MDF at about 16"x 22" should be
>fine for guitar backs. The lightweight MDF is a bit more expensive
>than regular MDF, but it's WAY lighter. 1/2" should be plenty thick
>to stay flat, especially if you have the infeed and outfeed tables.
>
>
Is "lightweight" MDF something other than what I would find at the Depot? That
sounds like just the trick.
Nice dulcimer design, btw. Thanks for sharing that.
Being a builder using radiused tops on radiused sides, you made me jealous with
your cool fixture for making your ribs flat!
Kathy
Kathy Wingert Guitars
Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
In article <[email protected]>, Kim Whitmyre
says...
>
>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>says...
>>Is "lightweight" MDF something other than what I would find at the Depot? That
>> sounds like just the trick.
>>
>>
>Kathy,
>
>I'm in Long Beach, and Long Beach Plywood just started carrying
>"ultralight" mdf. I had been getting it from Reel Lumber in Anaheim. If
>you try other cabinet lumber yards, you should be able to find it. It is
>a much superior product than plain mdf: not only lighter, but much finer
>textured internally, with a very smooth surface.
>
>Kim
Thank you, Kim.
Now that makes three good solutions to come out of my query. Thanks for your
time guys, I'll be doing a combination of parts replacement and making the
carriages.
Kathy
Kathy Wingert Guitars
Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
Kathy,
There is a poly belt also available for the 22-44 , but I'm not sure of the
cost.
Gene
"Gene T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Kathy,
> There is a polyurethane belt available for the 16/32 but it costs approx.
> $150.00. I you are having problems with your sander you may want to
address
> them before sanding away an expensive belt. You may also want to try
> wrapping an old belt with duct or gaffers tape.
> Gene
> "Kathy Wingert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi Guys,
> >
> > I hate to come around only when I have a question, but I confess I
haven't
> even
> > been lurking I've been so swamped.
> >
> > Now, the question....
> >
> > Didn't I see once upon time here mention of an alternative conveyor belt
> for the
> > Performax? I did a Google search on the group and I've searched the
web,
> but I
> > didn't turn up anything.
> >
> > My problem is that many times I use my thickness sander to take woods
down
> from
> > 4mm to 2.2mm (.090) sometimes even less. After the material passes
> through, the
> > drum skins the conveyor and in very short time they are too slick to
pull
> the
> > workpiece through. I tried making the conveyor really snug, but that
> didn't
> > help at all. I can't just lift the drum or I risk making a mistake on
the
> next
> > pass. Some of my guitar builder buddies make carrier boards that ride
on
> the
> > belt and the piece to be sanded gets passed through on top of the
boards,
> but
> > frankly a day of lifting a 5/8' baltic ply workboard 18x22 is more than
I
> can
> > do! I have worn out three conveyor belts now, and I'm about through the
> fourth.
> >
> > Other than running a piece of garbage wood on the heels of the piece I'm
> working
> > on, I'm out of ideas. Have you heard of an alternative conveyor or did
I
> dream
> > that? Does anyone know of a way to renew these things?
> >
> > Thanks for listening,
> > Kathy
> >
> > Kathy Wingert Guitars
> > Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
> >
>
>
Kathy,
There is a polyurethane belt available for the 16/32 but it costs approx.
$150.00. I you are having problems with your sander you may want to address
them before sanding away an expensive belt. You may also want to try
wrapping an old belt with duct or gaffers tape.
Gene
"Kathy Wingert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Guys,
>
> I hate to come around only when I have a question, but I confess I haven't
even
> been lurking I've been so swamped.
>
> Now, the question....
>
> Didn't I see once upon time here mention of an alternative conveyor belt
for the
> Performax? I did a Google search on the group and I've searched the web,
but I
> didn't turn up anything.
>
> My problem is that many times I use my thickness sander to take woods down
from
> 4mm to 2.2mm (.090) sometimes even less. After the material passes
through, the
> drum skins the conveyor and in very short time they are too slick to pull
the
> workpiece through. I tried making the conveyor really snug, but that
didn't
> help at all. I can't just lift the drum or I risk making a mistake on the
next
> pass. Some of my guitar builder buddies make carrier boards that ride on
the
> belt and the piece to be sanded gets passed through on top of the boards,
but
> frankly a day of lifting a 5/8' baltic ply workboard 18x22 is more than I
can
> do! I have worn out three conveyor belts now, and I'm about through the
fourth.
>
> Other than running a piece of garbage wood on the heels of the piece I'm
working
> on, I'm out of ideas. Have you heard of an alternative conveyor or did I
dream
> that? Does anyone know of a way to renew these things?
>
> Thanks for listening,
> Kathy
>
> Kathy Wingert Guitars
> Visit http://www.wingertguitars.com
>