Moneywise, it is hard to beat the hitachi m12v. It has been on sale
for around $160 for months now and I recently saw an amazon coupon
somewhere to knock it down further. I have 3 of these (router table,
freehand and CNC), great power, variable speed and soft start. Haven't
had any issues yet, my router table unit is probably 7 years old
already. I removed the springs, waxed the guides and removed a few
other unnecessary parts. The height adjust knob is okay, not really
ideal for 0.01 inch adjustments, just have to use trial and error. I
made my own at the time, now it is included (I got one last winter for
my CNC). In combo with a lift would solve that issue.
jaime
The other great value, I think, is the Freud FT2000E 3-1/4 HP plunge
router. $169 at Amazon. Micro-adjust knob works well for fine depth
settings.
It's my only router right now, but I'm thinking about making it the
permanent table fixture, and getting another, smaller router for
handheld. PC690? Gonna searach the archives for feedback on that one.
FYI,
Chris
"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Tim,
> I haven't checked recently, but, when I bought my last table router the
> Triton was the best bang for the buck. JG
Yeah, that's the conclusion I came to when I bought mine.
Triton + router table plate = $269 (one time sale at amazon) + $70 = $339
total
Porter Cable 7518 + bench dog router lift = $300 +$325 = $625 total
It was a hands-down value proposition for me, not a selection of the best.
I took the savings and bought the Veritas router table and fence.
Besides, Leon uses a Triton. :-)
Bob
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> The power switch must be turned off to allow the mechanism to work, and
>> too much dust clogs the switch (a slide switch) such that it can't be
>> moved. Thus the router jams and won't move.
>
> The switch must be in the off position as opposed to cutting the power
> with an auxiliary switch? While a good safety measure, it would be a PITA
> when making a series of small adjustments if the router is enclosed.
>
Yes to both questions. After this happened a few times, I learned to keep
that switch free of dust.
It does seem that PC uses this method to insure that the router is turned
off. Mine is not only turned off, it is also unplugged from AC power.
Jim
Hi Tim,
I haven't checked recently, but, when I bought my last table router the
Triton was the best bang for the buck. JG
Tim Sauerwein wrote:
> What are folks opinions on the best router for a router table? I'm
> looking for ease of adjustment from the top of the table and bit
> changing from the top.
>
> Tim
"Jim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The power switch must be turned off to allow the mechanism to work, and
> too much dust clogs the switch (a slide switch) such that it can't be
> moved. Thus the router jams and won't move.
The switch must be in the off position as opposed to cutting the power with
an auxiliary switch? While a good safety measure, it would be a PITA when
making a series of small adjustments if the router is enclosed.
"Tim Sauerwein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What are folks opinions on the best router for a router table? I'm
> looking for ease of adjustment from the top of the table and bit
> changing from the top.
Triton TRC001
Milwaukee 5625-20
Porter Cable 895PK
The other choice is to get a PC 7518 and good lift kit (about $200+ more
expensive).
All of the router choices have pros and cons. There is no perfect router.
Bob
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "BillyBob" wrote in message
>
> >I betcha every person
> > who brags about their 7518 in a table has spent at least $100 extra
(over
> > and above the plate) to address height adjustment.
>
> How much you wanna bet? :)
>
> Some of us wooddorkers are masochistic bastids ... my stock 7518 has been
> running for a few years, _exclusively_ in a router table. The lack of
height
> adjustment has never been a problem for me (as long as the 'dedicated' set
> of waterpump pliers for the router table hasn't been relocated by the same
> bastid that moved my cheese).
I humbly stand corrected.
Bob
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Moneywise, it is hard to beat the hitachi m12v.
> my CNC). In combo with a lift would solve that issue.
And that last statement blows the price advantage. The cheapest solution
I've seen is a router raizer or Lee Valley bit jack which adds another
$90-$100 to the cost.
Bob
"BillyBob" wrote in message
>I betcha every person
> who brags about their 7518 in a table has spent at least $100 extra (over
> and above the plate) to address height adjustment.
How much you wanna bet? :)
Some of us wooddorkers are masochistic bastids ... my stock 7518 has been
running for a few years, _exclusively_ in a router table. The lack of height
adjustment has never been a problem for me (as long as the 'dedicated' set
of waterpump pliers for the router table hasn't been relocated by the same
bastid that moved my cheese).
That is because of the *#*%^#ing large wing nut that loosens (if you're
lucky) the body from the housing when the tool gets hot ... which is
whenever it's used.
There was a fix using a bicycle seat adjustment clamp, but I never got
around to doing that either. Somehow the $$ always seem better spent on
little things, like wood, or college tuition.
The 7518 may lack refinements, but it is hell for stout, unlike many of the
more recent entries with plastic parts, and was the first BIG kahauna to
come down the pike, IIRC ... I've never regretted owning the beast despite
it lack of height adjustment.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/29/05
Festool has to be top dog for expense. Triton appears over all recommended.
Porter-Cable most widely used.
But I'm very happy with my $158. Milwaukee 5616.
But the Table can make a bad router look good or a good router look bad!
"Tim Sauerwein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What are folks opinions on the best router for a router table? I'm
> looking for ease of adjustment from the top of the table and bit
> changing from the top.
>
> Tim
"BillyBob" <[email protected]> writes:
> "JGS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi Tim,
>> I haven't checked recently, but, when I bought my last table router the
>> Triton was the best bang for the buck. JG
>
> Yeah, that's the conclusion I came to when I bought mine.
>
> Triton + router table plate = $269 (one time sale at amazon) + $70 = $339
> total
>
> Porter Cable 7518 + bench dog router lift = $300 +$325 = $625 total
>
> It was a hands-down value proposition for me, not a selection of the best.
> I took the savings and bought the Veritas router table and fence.
Well, that's not really a apples to apples comparison for someone
asking for advice today.
What it should be is
Triton TRC001 ($319) + router table plate ($70) = $389 Total
Porter Cable 895PK ($269) + router table plate ($70) = $339 Total
So the PC has the advantage today - pricewise.
I'm looking at the PC 895PK, but so far no one here has reviewed it.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
"Tim Sauerwein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What are folks opinions on the best router for a router table? I'm
> looking for ease of adjustment from the top of the table and bit
> changing from the top.
>
> Tim
The best router is the one you already own.
I use a PC 895 which allows you to adjust the router from the top of the
table provided that the plate has the correct holes drilled in it. The only
problem I have had is that dust tends to accumulate around the power switch.
The power switch must be turned off to allow the mechanism to work, and too
much dust clogs the switch (a slide switch) such that it can't be moved.
Thus the router jams and won't move.
The solution is, of course, to keep the switch clean. That is what I do now
that I have identified the reason.
Sometimes the router drops down slightly when I open the lock, but that is
of small importance. I am, after all, going to move the router up to change
the bit.
Jim
"Tim Sauerwein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What are folks opinions on the best router for a router table? I'm
> looking for ease of adjustment from the top of the table and bit
> changing from the top.
>
> Tim
You want to do it with just the router or in combination with a lift? If
you use a lift, most any router will work. If you want that feature "built
in" your choices are more limited.
Porter Cable is one http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=4858
I've not seen it so I have no idea how well it is to adjust. If you go that
way, see if you can adapt your drill tot he bit used for raising and
lowering it. I have a Benchdog lift and can run it up in a few seconds to
change bits. Very handy.
"Bruce Barnett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, that's not really a apples to apples comparison for someone
> asking for advice today.
>
> What it should be is
>
> Triton TRC001 ($319) + router table plate ($70) = $389 Total
>
> Porter Cable 895PK ($269) + router table plate ($70) = $339 Tota
That is certainly not an equal comparison either. The Triton has way more
power than the PC895's The comparison of the Triton to the bigger PC is at
least in the same class of router.
"Bruce Barnett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, that's not really a apples to apples comparison for someone
> asking for advice today.
>
> What it should be is
>
> Triton TRC001 ($319) + router table plate ($70) = $389 Total
>
> Porter Cable 895PK ($269) + router table plate ($70) = $339 Total
>
> So the PC has the advantage today - pricewise.
Hi Bruce. I think my point was valid but perhaps subtle. The OP asked for
routers to use in a table. A bare PC 7518 sucks for table use, if you don't
provide some add-on means for adjusting the height. I betcha every person
who brags about their 7518 in a table has spent at least $100 extra (over
and above the plate) to address height adjustment. The three routers I
originally mentioned can be used satisfactorily in a table right out of the
box. My quick view on them:
Triton - power for big bits, the best above the table bit change period,
excellent micro-adjust
Milwaukee - power for big bits, known for falling out of its base if you
don't hold it with your hand when doing coarse adjustments, micro-adjust is
a bit coarse compared to the Triton
PC 895 - insufficient power for big bits, great design - poor manufacturing
(too many report experience with plastic parts breaking).
Bob