I have a shop with electric baseboard heat, which is quite expensive
to use. I also have a fireplace in the shop and there is a gas main
just outside. It has occurred to me that using a gas log fire would
have the advantage of permitting quick extinguishment if I was using
some flammable substance. That would be an advantage. However, it also
occurred to me that any flame in the shop coult cause the sawdust
particles in the air to combust, which would not be a good thing. I do
have a vac that I use to get most of the dust, but not high quality
dust control. Has anyone used gas logs to heat a shop? Are there other
problems with which I should be concerned? I want to start now so that
it will be in place by cold weather (here in VA that is late October,
mostly)
Dokker
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"Nelson R. Kerr, Jr." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> However, it also
> occurred to me that any flame in the shop coult cause the sawdust
> particles in the air to combust, which would not be a good thing. I do
> have a vac that I use to get most of the dust, but not high quality
> dust control. Has anyone used gas logs to heat a shop?
Sawdust is not a problem in the concentrations you will have. I use a
propane open flame heater that has a small fan. I've never had a problem.
After is sits a few day and accumulates dust, it may burn a few little
embers for a second.
There may be other more efficient heaters than a gas log to check out.
There is one called a Hot Dawg that some here have touted as working very
well.
Ed
On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 01:25:09 -0400, "Nelson R. Kerr, Jr."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a shop with electric baseboard heat, which is quite expensive
>to use. I also have a fireplace in the shop and there is a gas main
>just outside. It has occurred to me that using a gas log fire would
>have the advantage of permitting quick extinguishment if I was using
>some flammable substance. That would be an advantage. However, it also
>occurred to me that any flame in the shop coult cause the sawdust
>particles in the air to combust, which would not be a good thing. I do
>have a vac that I use to get most of the dust, but not high quality
>dust control. Has anyone used gas logs to heat a shop? Are there other
>problems with which I should be concerned? I want to start now so that
>it will be in place by cold weather (here in VA that is late October,
>mostly)
>Dokker
>
dust explosions require a *lot* of sawdust suspended in the air. way
more than you could breathe in.
however, a steady supply of small amounts of dust in the air can
present a fire danger with your gas logs as the dust settles out and
accumulates in those hard to clean areas between and behind the logs
and burners.
best bet is to collect the dust before it gets into the air in the
first place.
Thanks all for the helpful comments. Even less efficient logs (I
already have a set at home) will be better than electric heat, and I
feel safe from explosions.
Dokker
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On a related topic, what are your (the whole group, not just bridger)
thoughts on insulated garage doors? I've heard there are pre-sized
foam panels you can snap into existing non-insulated garage doors. Is
there a problem keeping them in? Do they work well?
Alteratively, Lowes and Home Deport sell metal insulated doors (R15, I
think). This option is more expensive but looks better. R-15 ounds
better than I could get with the snap-in foam pannel method above....
Comments?
Seems I could get a lot more out of my 85,000 BTU propane unit if so
much heat wasn't escaping through the doors. Plus, in the summer, the
afternoon sun would turn the garage into a slow roasting oven...
[email protected] wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 01:25:09 -0400, "Nelson R. Kerr, Jr."
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I have a shop with electric baseboard heat, which is quite expensive
> >to use. I also have a fireplace in the shop and there is a gas main
> >just outside. It has occurred to me that using a gas log fire would
> >have the advantage of permitting quick extinguishment if I was using
> >some flammable substance. That would be an advantage. However, it also
> >occurred to me that any flame in the shop coult cause the sawdust
> >particles in the air to combust, which would not be a good thing. I do
> >have a vac that I use to get most of the dust, but not high quality
> >dust control. Has anyone used gas logs to heat a shop? Are there other
> >problems with which I should be concerned? I want to start now so that
> >it will be in place by cold weather (here in VA that is late October,
> >mostly)
> >Dokker
> >
>
>
>
> dust explosions require a *lot* of sawdust suspended in the air. way
> more than you could breathe in.
>
> however, a steady supply of small amounts of dust in the air can
> present a fire danger with your gas logs as the dust settles out and
> accumulates in those hard to clean areas between and behind the logs
> and burners.
>
> best bet is to collect the dust before it gets into the air in the
> first place.
Thanks. You are correct about the R values. I went to Lowes and their
brand is R 5.85.
Not sure where I got the idea it was R 15!
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On a related topic, what are your (the whole group, not just bridger)
> > thoughts on insulated garage doors? I've heard there are pre-sized
> > foam panels you can snap into existing non-insulated garage doors. Is
> > there a problem keeping them in? Do they work well?
> >
> > Alteratively, Lowes and Home Deport sell metal insulated doors (R15, I
> > think). This option is more expensive but looks better. R-15 ounds
> > better than I could get with the snap-in foam pannel method above....
> >
> > Comments?
>
> The door will make a difference. If you need a new door, buy insulated, but
> it is possible to retrofit just by adding some rigid foam panels on the
> inside. R-15 is pretty good considering the thickness you have to work with.
> Most foam panels are about R-4 or R-5 per inch.
>
> Make sure you have a good fit also. Drafts can suck a lot of heat.
>
> I spent some time this morning adding some insulation to the back wall of my
> garage. I did most of it last year and now I'm finishing it up. It does make
> a difference.
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 08:57:22 -0400, "Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hang a direct vent wall unit and use the natural gas on your site.
This makes sense to me from a heating standpoint. A fireplace that has
enough draft to handle logs would seem to be too loss-y for a gas log setup
that you want to heat the shop. As for fire hazzard mentioned by OP, that
concern seems quite real and I do not have any advice on that .
Both of my wood shops used direct vent propane units, they work well, I
don't worry about fires and cost me about $1500/yr for the two buildings.
Natural gas may be less to use.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 08:57:22 -0400, "Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Hang a direct vent wall unit and use the natural gas on your site.
>
> This makes sense to me from a heating standpoint. A fireplace that has
> enough draft to handle logs would seem to be too loss-y for a gas log
setup
> that you want to heat the shop. As for fire hazzard mentioned by OP, that
> concern seems quite real and I do not have any advice on that .
Never Enough Money wrote:
> On a related topic, what are your (the whole group, not just bridger)
> thoughts on insulated garage doors? I've heard there are pre-sized
> foam panels you can snap into existing non-insulated garage doors. Is
> there a problem keeping them in? Do they work well?
>
I have an insulated garage door. With winter temps in the 0 to 30dF
range, the inside of the door will be cold to the touch. The bigger
difference is the weatherstripping that keeps out the drafts. I can
keep the inside temp at 60 dF with a small gas heater without problem.
mahalo,
jo4hn
Hang a direct vent wall unit and use the natural gas on your site.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Nelson R. Kerr, Jr." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a shop with electric baseboard heat, which is quite expensive
> to use. I also have a fireplace in the shop and there is a gas main
> just outside. It has occurred to me that using a gas log fire would
> have the advantage of permitting quick extinguishment if I was using
> some flammable substance. That would be an advantage. However, it also
> occurred to me that any flame in the shop coult cause the sawdust
> particles in the air to combust, which would not be a good thing. I do
> have a vac that I use to get most of the dust, but not high quality
> dust control. Has anyone used gas logs to heat a shop? Are there other
> problems with which I should be concerned? I want to start now so that
> it will be in place by cold weather (here in VA that is late October,
> mostly)
> Dokker
>
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On a related topic, what are your (the whole group, not just bridger)
> thoughts on insulated garage doors? I've heard there are pre-sized
> foam panels you can snap into existing non-insulated garage doors. Is
> there a problem keeping them in? Do they work well?
>
> Alteratively, Lowes and Home Deport sell metal insulated doors (R15, I
> think). This option is more expensive but looks better. R-15 ounds
> better than I could get with the snap-in foam pannel method above....
>
> Comments?
The door will make a difference. If you need a new door, buy insulated, but
it is possible to retrofit just by adding some rigid foam panels on the
inside. R-15 is pretty good considering the thickness you have to work with.
Most foam panels are about R-4 or R-5 per inch.
Make sure you have a good fit also. Drafts can suck a lot of heat.
I spent some time this morning adding some insulation to the back wall of my
garage. I did most of it last year and now I'm finishing it up. It does make
a difference.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome