The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Frame-Cabinet-Hinge-Overlay/dp/B000KPZC80
Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
> >maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
> >The hinges are similar to these:
> >http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Frame-Cabinet-Hinge-Overlay/dp/B000KPZC80
> >
> >Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
> >loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
> >them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
> >thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
> >be removeable.
>
> Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold the
> screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker, or
> both.
> >
>
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
> >maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
> >The hinges are similar to these:
> >http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Frame-Cabinet-Hinge-Overlay/dp/B000KPZC80
> >
> >Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
> >loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
> >them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
> >thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
> >be removeable.
>
> Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold the
> screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker, or
> both.
> >
>
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
> >maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
> >The hinges are similar to these:
> >http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Frame-Cabinet-Hinge-Overlay/dp/B000KPZC80
> >
> >Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
> >loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
> >them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
> >thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
> >be removeable.
>
> Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold the
> screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker, or
> both.
> >
>
Sorry about the earlier blank posts.
For whatever reason the screws are not 'standard' wood screws. They
have a very harsh thread pattern more like particle board or MDF
screws. They are also only about 5/8 long. Longer screws are probably
the best idea plus it will give me an excuse to order something from
McFeeley's.
BTW by silicone I meant silicone caulk. If it holds well enough to
make a car jack necessary to remove a sink I figured it should hold a
screw.
RayV wrote:
> The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
> maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
> The hinges are similar to these:
> http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Frame-Cabinet-Hinge-Overlay/dp/B000KPZC80
>
> Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
> loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
> them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
> thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
> be removeable.
I'd try a tiny dab of polyurethane. It's supposed to stick anything to
anything.
DonkeyHody
[email protected] wrote:
SNIP
> The right way is to remove the screws and doors and insert a wooden dowel
> impregnated with epoxy glue.
Screwing into end grain? BTDT didn't like it.
Besides, the screws are not stripped they just loosen up a little. I
suppose they will eventually strip out if I don't fix them properly but
by then SWMBO will want a new kitchen,... or house.
J T wrote:
> Wed, Dec 20, 2006, 8:24am (EST-3) [email protected] (RayV) doth
> mumble:
> <snip> Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw. <snip> I
> was thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and
> still be removeable.
>
> Looks like three screw holes to me. I think four would be better.
>
> You ask about silicone, but the subject says loctite. That's an
> interesting thought. Personally, I think loctite might well hold, but
> could give problems when removing screws. So I nominate you try
> loctite, and get back to us on it. All in favor say aye. All opposed
> say nay. OK, the ayes have it.
>
OK, since the motion has carried for me to try loctite what color
should I use?
How much should I apply to each screw?
What setting on my torque rench should I use?
Damn, these are European hinges and my wrench only reads in ft/lbs.
Anyone have a conversion chart for torque wrenches?
RayV wrote:
> The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
> maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
> The hinges are similar to these:
> http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Frame-Cabinet-Hinge-Overlay/dp/B000KPZC80
>
> Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
> loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
> them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
> thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
> be removeable.
Before I read the end of your post, clear silicone was what came to my
mind too.
The real problem here is the single screw holding the frame. This
allows for some rotation, which eventually loosens the screw. How about
replacing the hinges with a better design using at least two screws on
each hinge flange? Of course that could take a lot of time to do.
If you do go the glue route (which is probably what I would do), ask
yourself if you might ever want to undo the screw for any reason some
day. Epoxies and polyurethane/Gorilla glue would make that job
difficult or impossible; silicone would be a better choice IMO.
Mark
RayV wrote:
> J T wrote:
> > Wed, Dec 20, 2006, 8:24am (EST-3) [email protected] (RayV) doth
> > mumble:
> > <snip> Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw. <snip> I
> > was thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and
> > still be removeable.
> >
> > Looks like three screw holes to me. I think four would be better.
> >
> > You ask about silicone, but the subject says loctite. That's an
> > interesting thought. Personally, I think loctite might well hold, but
> > could give problems when removing screws. So I nominate you try
> > loctite, and get back to us on it. All in favor say aye. All opposed
> > say nay. OK, the ayes have it.
> >
>
> OK, since the motion has carried for me to try loctite what color
> should I use?
>
> How much should I apply to each screw?
>
> What setting on my torque rench should I use?
>
> Damn, these are European hinges and my wrench only reads in ft/lbs.
> Anyone have a conversion chart for torque wrenches?
Go for the green- sleeve retainer. Keep it moving. Improvise the rest.
J
redbelly98 wrote:
> If you do go the glue route (which is probably what I would do), ask
> yourself if you might ever want to undo the screw for any reason some
> day. Epoxies and polyurethane/Gorilla glue would make that job
> difficult or impossible; silicone would be a better choice IMO.
[email protected] wrote:
> Mark
>
> Maybe, however I have been using polyurethane to re-bed the SS screws on the
> spray hood of my sailboat.
> I remove the spray hood every 2 to 3 years and I do not have any problem to
> remove the screws.
> I also used Gorilla glue to re-bed screws in wood, presswood and plywood
> with no problem.
Thanks for the info, that is good to know. Surprising to me, but now I
can keep that in mind in the future.
> As long as the Robertson, Phillip or slotted head is clean and the screw
> driver has a firm and positive contact with the screw's head it works fine.
> Over the years I have learned that it was better to use a old awl to clean
> the screw head first
> The worst are the Phillip head. A worn out Phillip screw driver is the worst
> thing to use especially with a powered driver.
> Using Locktite on metal to metal is a different kettle of fish.
Depends on which Loctite product you mean. Besides their superglue,
they do make threadlocker for machine screws where you can still remove
the screw later if you want.
Mark
I think it was "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> who stated:
>Likewise, I've had good luck over the decades using toothpicks.
That's what I've always used . . . .
>I know -
>it's a travesty in this group, but I've done it on exterior door hinges,
>small scale work, and all sorts of things and I've never had a problem.
>Works for me.
How could it be a travesty?
WOOD toothpicks WORKed into the hole with some
WOOD glue WORKed in there too to keep them in place seems right in a
WOODWORKING newsgroup . . . .
--
"Ladies and gentlemen take my advice.
Pull down your pants and slide on the ice."
-- Sidney Freedman
[email protected] wrote:
> Whatever fills the gap. Foil probably conforms better than some things
>
> On board my sailboat I carry a two parts epoxy putty stick. When I
am in
> trouble I fill the screw hole with that epoxy putty.
> Then I wait 15 minutes. Make sure it has harden and drill the
proper size
> of pilot hole.
> I have use that epoxy putty (gray) to fill holes in my wooden
dinghy and it
> works well.
Similar to the above, the following is a sure fire way to repair
stripped screw holes.
1) Drill out stripped hole with a 1/4"-5/16" drill.
2) Fill with an epoxy putty which is nothing more than epoxy thickened
with micro-balloons.
3) When cured, drill pilot hole which is about 75% of thread OD.
SFWIW, IMHO, wood screws are worthless except when you are building a
wooden boat.
Coarse thread, self tapping sheet metal screws provide much greater
holding power, especially in thickened epoxy as described above.
Yes, you can remove the screws, if required.
Have fun.
Lew
"Don Fearn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> How could it be a travesty?
>
> WOOD toothpicks WORKed into the hole with some
>
> WOOD glue WORKed in there too to keep them in place seems right in a
>
> WOODWORKING newsgroup . . . .
>
Beats me, but I've seen where it has upset folks. Seems the preferred
method is the dowel method, but I always defer to the good old toothpick.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mark Jerde (in WmCih.3330$Iy5.1541@trnddc01) said:
| "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
| news:[email protected]...
|
|| You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and
|| try this search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't
|| include the quotation marks. I've found very few units that it
|| won't convert.
|
| Huh, I'm impressed. Whoda thunk they covered this one?
|
| 14.3 (inches per second) = 1.14621067 W 10**20 angstroms per
| millenium
|
|
http://www.google.com/search?&q=14.3+inches+per+second+in+angstroms+pe
r+millenium
|
| Maybe density, in AMUs per cubic parsec?
Or if you'd like to solve physics problems in user-friendly units, you
can ask for "c in furlongs per fortnight" (the speed of light =
1.8026175 × 1012 furlongs per fortnight.)
Watch out for rounding errors <eg>
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Yup, used to be wooden matches (without the head of course). Prolly b4 a lot
of you were born...
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> I've had better luck using bamboo skewers instead of dowels.
>
> Likewise, I've had good luck over the decades using toothpicks. I know -
> it's a travesty in this group, but I've done it on exterior door hinges,
> small scale work, and all sorts of things and I've never had a problem.
> Works for me.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
>
>
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
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Wed, Dec 20, 2006, 8:24am (EST-3) [email protected] (RayV) doth
mumble:
<snip> Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw. <snip> I
was thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and
still be removeable.
Looks like three screw holes to me. I think four would be better.
You ask about silicone, but the subject says loctite. That's an
interesting thought. Personally, I think loctite might well hold, but
could give problems when removing screws. So I nominate you try
loctite, and get back to us on it. All in favor say aye. All opposed
say nay. OK, the ayes have it.
JOAT
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
- Eric Hoffer
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had better luck using bamboo skewers instead of dowels.
Likewise, I've had good luck over the decades using toothpicks. I know -
it's a travesty in this group, but I've done it on exterior door hinges,
small scale work, and all sorts of things and I've never had a problem.
Works for me.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
If you do go the glue route (which is probably what I would do), ask
yourself if you might ever want to undo the screw for any reason some
day. Epoxies and polyurethane/Gorilla glue would make that job
difficult or impossible; silicone would be a better choice IMO.
Mark
Maybe, however I have been using polyurethane to re-bed the SS screws on the
spray hood of my sailboat.
I remove the spray hood every 2 to 3 years and I do not have any problem to
remove the screws.
I also used Gorilla glue to re-bed screws in wood, presswood and plywood
with no problem.
As long as the Robertson, Phillip or slotted head is clean and the screw
driver has a firm and positive contact with the screw's head it works fine.
Over the years I have learned that it was better to use a old awl to clean
the screw head first
The worst are the Phillip head. A worn out Phillip screw driver is the worst
thing to use especially with a powered driver.
Using Locktite on metal to metal is a different kettle of fish.
"redbelly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> RayV wrote:
>> The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
>> maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
>> The hinges are similar to these:
>> http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Frame-Cabinet-Hinge-Overlay/dp/B000KPZC80
>>
>> Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
>> loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
>> them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
>> thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
>> be removeable.
>
> Before I read the end of your post, clear silicone was what came to my
> mind too.
>
> The real problem here is the single screw holding the frame. This
> allows for some rotation, which eventually loosens the screw. How about
> replacing the hinges with a better design using at least two screws on
> each hinge flange? Of course that could take a lot of time to do.
>
> If you do go the glue route (which is probably what I would do), ask
> yourself if you might ever want to undo the screw for any reason some
> day. Epoxies and polyurethane/Gorilla glue would make that job
> difficult or impossible; silicone would be a better choice IMO.
>
> Mark
>
I like the idea of using bamboo skewers.
I'll give it a try.
Do you think the skewers should be dip in two parts epoxy or urethane glue
before using?
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had better luck using bamboo skewers instead of dowels.
>
> On 20 Dec 2006 10:50:15 -0800, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>SNIP
>>> The right way is to remove the screws and doors and insert a wooden
>>> dowel
>>> impregnated with epoxy glue.
>>
>>Screwing into end grain? BTDT didn't like it.
>>
>>Besides, the screws are not stripped they just loosen up a little. I
>>suppose they will eventually strip out if I don't fix them properly but
>>by then SWMBO will want a new kitchen,... or house.
You can either improve the hole or glue the screw.
(1) find a dowel or match stick that just barely
fits in the hole. Dip in a epoxy glue and insert
it in the hole and let it dry. Using a "good"
screw, reinstall hinge.
(2) Dip screw in expoxy and reinstall hinge.
(Just a dab will it)
(3) Replace the hinges with a different model and
different screw locations.
I have "never" seen a hinge with "one" screw.
RayV wrote:
> The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
> maple frame.
Whatever fills the gap. Foil probably conforms better than some things
On board my sailboat I carry a two parts epoxy putty stick. When I am in
trouble I fill the screw hole with that epoxy putty.
Then I wait 15 minutes. Make sure it has harden and drill the proper size
of pilot hole.
I have use that epoxy putty (gray) to fill holes in my wooden dinghy and it
works well.
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Rob Lee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I've had better luck using bamboo skewers instead of dowels.
>>
>> (snip)
>>
>> Don't laugh... but rolling up little bits of aluminum foil works really
>> well too....
>>
>> at least.... so I've heard .....
>
> Whatever fills the gap. Foil probably conforms better than some things.
You do what you like its your problem.
AFAIC I have used this procedure (with two part epoxy) for a long time
without any problem.
"RayV" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> [email protected] wrote:
> SNIP
>> The right way is to remove the screws and doors and insert a wooden dowel
>> impregnated with epoxy glue.
>
> Screwing into end grain? BTDT didn't like it.
>
> Besides, the screws are not stripped they just loosen up a little. I
> suppose they will eventually strip out if I don't fix them properly but
> by then SWMBO will want a new kitchen,... or house.
>
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and try this
> search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't include the quotation
> marks. I've found very few units that it won't convert.
Huh, I'm impressed. Whoda thunk they covered this one?
14.3 (inches per second) = 1.14621067 × 10**20 angstroms per millenium
http://www.google.com/search?&q=14.3+inches+per+second+in+angstroms+per+millenium
Maybe density, in AMUs per cubic parsec?
-- Mark
"Rob Lee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I've had better luck using bamboo skewers instead of dowels.
>
> (snip)
>
> Don't laugh... but rolling up little bits of aluminum foil works really
> well too....
>
> at least.... so I've heard .....
Whatever fills the gap. Foil probably conforms better than some things.
RayV wrote:
> Doug Miller wrote:
>
>>In article <[email protected]>, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
>>>maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
>>>The hinges are similar to these:
>>>http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Frame-Cabinet-Hinge-Overlay/dp/B000KPZC80
>>>
>>>Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
>>>loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
>>>them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
>>>thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
>>>be removeable.
>>
>>Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold the
>>screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker, or
>>both.
>>
>
> Sorry about the earlier blank posts.
>
> For whatever reason the screws are not 'standard' wood screws. They
> have a very harsh thread pattern more like particle board or MDF
> screws. They are also only about 5/8 long. Longer screws are probably
> the best idea plus it will give me an excuse to order something from
> McFeeley's.
>
> BTW by silicone I meant silicone caulk. If it holds well enough to
> make a car jack necessary to remove a sink I figured it should hold a
> screw.
>
Silicone is a royal PITA. On some surfaces it sticks like nothing else.
e.g. electrical grade silicone used to secure the circuit board to the
neck of a TV or monitor tube typically cannot be removed from the glass
neck even with a razor blade. You can get the bulk of it off but the
last traces just will not come loose. OTOH we have all experienced
peeling silicone in the bathroom or kitchen, and its extremely difficult
to get a new bead to stick well.
My war stories with it all involve boats, and after many fastenings
backing out, sealing fillets peeling etc. I vowed *NEVER* to use it
again if there was any alternative. It only sticks properly to
perfectly clean surfaces and when it cures it contaminates any surface
that it doesnt stick to and in fact when its cured a fresh application
wont even stick to it. When it has failed to bond, it definately acts
as a lubricant and helps screws back out.
Many years ago, a professional boat-builder taught me to never put a
screw in dry. (Boats are a bit different to cabinet work as there is
always movement and changing humidity to contend with) He favoured
dipping the screws in varnish. I've had no trouble with screws working
loose unless they were seriously overloaded but have seen many screws
that were put in dry work loose.
If you are overloading the wood and the fibres are getting crushed, wood
hardener on the screws might help if varnish isn't enough but if you
have a real problem and cant go to longer screws, West Systems have a
lot of helpfull info at
<http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/userinfo/manual/#bondingfastenersandhardware>
The same technique can be used with most other brands of Epoxy but you
*MUST* follow the specific brand's mixing instructions, not the WEST ones.
If you ever want to get the screws out, they should be clean and shiny
(no rusty or chewed up ones) and you need to scrape a trace of candle
wax onto them then flow it evenly over the whole thread by applying
enough heat to melt the wax before inserting them into the hole with the
wet emoxy. Easy enough to do one at a time with a lighter flame or you
can wax a batch of screws in the bottom of a tin with a small lump of
wax and a hot air gun or other heat source. Waxing the screws
apparently weakens the fastening by about 10%. Even if you dont wax
them they can be got out by heating the head of the screw for about half
a minute with a 100W soldering gun immediately before trying to unscrew
them.
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.
On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 08:37:51 -0500, J T wrote:
> Wed, Dec 20, 2006, 8:24am (EST-3) [email protected] (RayV) doth
> mumble:
> <snip> Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw. <snip> I
> was thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and
> still be removeable.
>
> Looks like three screw holes to me. I think four would be better.
>
> You ask about silicone, but the subject says loctite. That's an
> interesting thought. Personally, I think loctite might well hold, but
> could give problems when removing screws. So I nominate you try
> loctite, and get back to us on it. All in favor say aye. All opposed
> say nay. OK, the ayes have it.
There are different grades of Loctite with different degrees of holding
strength, from "easily adjustable" to "heat it red hot and _maybe_ it'll
come out if you're having a good day".
When using Loctite with wood, go to the Loctite site and read the
technical information--it may need a primer in order to cure, the same
way that CA needs an accelerator.
>
>
> JOAT
> Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. - Eric Hoffer
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 05:50:59 -0800, RayV wrote:
> J T wrote:
>> Wed, Dec 20, 2006, 8:24am (EST-3) [email protected] (RayV) doth
>> mumble:
>> <snip> Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw. <snip> I
>> was thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and
>> still be removeable.
>>
>> Looks like three screw holes to me. I think four would be better.
>>
>> You ask about silicone, but the subject says loctite. That's an
>> interesting thought. Personally, I think loctite might well hold, but
>> could give problems when removing screws. So I nominate you try
>> loctite, and get back to us on it. All in favor say aye. All opposed
>> say nay. OK, the ayes have it.
>>
>
> OK, since the motion has carried for me to try loctite what color
> should I use?
>
> How much should I apply to each screw?
>
> What setting on my torque rench should I use?
>
> Damn, these are European hinges and my wrench only reads in ft/lbs.
> Anyone have a conversion chart for torque wrenches?
You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and try this
search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't include the quotation
marks. I've found very few units that it won't convert.
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 20:44:38 +0000, Mark Jerde wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and try this
>> search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't include the quotation
>> marks. I've found very few units that it won't convert.
>
> Huh, I'm impressed. Whoda thunk they covered this one?
>
> 14.3 (inches per second) = 1.14621067 Ã 10**20 angstroms per millenium
>
> http://www.google.com/search?&q=14.3+inches+per+second+in+angstroms+per+millenium
>
> Maybe density, in AMUs per cubic parsec?
Managed that one fine. The only thing I've tried that it won't handle is
inches of mercury as a unit of pressure.
> -- Mark
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 16:52:57 -0500, Roy Smith wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 20:44:38 +0000, Mark Jerde wrote:
>>
>> > "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >
>> >> You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and try this
>> >> search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't include the quotation
>> >> marks. I've found very few units that it won't convert.
>> >
>> > Huh, I'm impressed. Whoda thunk they covered this one?
>> >
>> > 14.3 (inches per second) = 1.14621067 Ã 10**20 angstroms per millenium
>> >
>> > http://www.google.com/search?&q=14.3+inches+per+second+in+angstroms+per+mill
>> > enium
>> >
>> > Maybe density, in AMUs per cubic parsec?
>>
>> Managed that one fine. The only thing I've tried that it won't handle is
>> inches of mercury as a unit of pressure.
>>
>> > -- Mark
>
> The calculator that comes with Mac OSX can convert to in-Hg.
Then maybe you ought to get on google feedback and tell them to start
running Macs.
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
I do not know what kind of screws or how much threads are going into the
maple wood.
You may have a long shoulder without threads not leaving enough thread
contact with the wood.
The quick fix is to remove the screw wet it with water and apply a little
drop of Gorilla Glue.
Then screw it back in to place and wait overnight before using the door or
doors.
The right way is to remove the screws and doors and insert a wooden dowel
impregnated with epoxy glue. Wait about 24 hours.
Then you have to measure the bottom of the screw thread and select a drill
size to match it. I recommend that you get a screw that has thread up to
its shoulder and make sure it is the right length.
The pilot holes have to be bored perpendicular to the vertical structure.
If you have many holes to make a drill jig would be a real asset. It will
save you time and make sure that you are boring the holes perpendicular (90
degrees) to the surface.
Before inserting the screws apply a little gorilla glue on it. If you are
using a drill to drive the screws make sure that the toque is adjusted as
not to strip the wood. It would be best to practice on a scrap piece of
wood first to validate your drill bit size and driving toque.
"RayV" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Doug Miller wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>, "RayV"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
>> >maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
>> >The hinges are similar to these:
>> >http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Frame-Cabinet-Hinge-Overlay/dp/B000KPZC80
>> >
>> >Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
>> >loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
>> >them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
>> >thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
>> >be removeable.
>>
>> Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold
>> the
>> screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker,
>> or
>> both.
>> >
>>
>
> Sorry about the earlier blank posts.
>
> For whatever reason the screws are not 'standard' wood screws. They
> have a very harsh thread pattern more like particle board or MDF
> screws. They are also only about 5/8 long. Longer screws are probably
> the best idea plus it will give me an excuse to order something from
> McFeeley's.
>
> BTW by silicone I meant silicone caulk. If it holds well enough to
> make a car jack necessary to remove a sink I figured it should hold a
> screw.
>
I've had better luck using bamboo skewers instead of dowels.
On 20 Dec 2006 10:50:15 -0800, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>SNIP
>> The right way is to remove the screws and doors and insert a wooden dowel
>> impregnated with epoxy glue.
>
>Screwing into end grain? BTDT didn't like it.
>
>Besides, the screws are not stripped they just loosen up a little. I
>suppose they will eventually strip out if I don't fix them properly but
>by then SWMBO will want a new kitchen,... or house.
In article <[email protected]>, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
>maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
>The hinges are similar to these:
>http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Frame-Cabinet-Hinge-Overlay/dp/B000KPZC80
>
>Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
>loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
>them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
>thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
>be removeable.
Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold the
screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker, or
both.
>
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
In article <[email protected]>,
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 20:44:38 +0000, Mark Jerde wrote:
>
> > "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >> You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and try this
> >> search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't include the quotation
> >> marks. I've found very few units that it won't convert.
> >
> > Huh, I'm impressed. Whoda thunk they covered this one?
> >
> > 14.3 (inches per second) = 1.14621067 Ã 10**20 angstroms per millenium
> >
> > http://www.google.com/search?&q=14.3+inches+per+second+in+angstroms+per+mill
> > enium
> >
> > Maybe density, in AMUs per cubic parsec?
>
> Managed that one fine. The only thing I've tried that it won't handle is
> inches of mercury as a unit of pressure.
>
> > -- Mark
The calculator that comes with Mac OSX can convert to in-Hg.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had better luck using bamboo skewers instead of dowels.
(snip)
Don't laugh... but rolling up little bits of aluminum foil works really well
too....
at least.... so I've heard .....
:)