On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 09:18:39 GMT, "Tim Henrion" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Could someone recommend techniques/jigs for making
>dentil molding? My local dealers charge an outrageous
>amount of money for it and I'd like to make my own...
>
I use a scms with the depth stop set, to make crosscuts every inch or
so on a wide board and then rip the board into strips of the
appropriate width on the ts.
Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 12:02:56 GMT, "Groggy" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Tom,
>
>I tried that but had a reasonable amount of tearout (from the SCMS), any
>tips?
I put a board between the fence and the board that I'm cutting, so
that the back edge of the board to be cut is at, or a bit forward of
the center line of the blade.
Make sure the blade is sharp, clean and that you cut on the pull
strike.
Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
Tom,
I tried that but had a reasonable amount of tearout (from the SCMS), any
tips?
Greg
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 09:18:39 GMT, "Tim Henrion" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Could someone recommend techniques/jigs for making
> >dentil molding? My local dealers charge an outrageous
> >amount of money for it and I'd like to make my own...
> >
> I use a scms with the depth stop set, to make crosscuts every inch or
> so on a wide board and then rip the board into strips of the
> appropriate width on the ts.
On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 09:18:39 +0000, Tim Henrion wrote:
> Could someone recommend techniques/jigs for making
> dentil molding? My local dealers charge an outrageous
> amount of money for it and I'd like to make my own...
Not sure if they still sell it, but Sears had a router attachment called a
"Molding Maker". I have one and have used it twice and it does work.
I've also used my RAS with a dado stack, then ripping the finished profile
to the desired thickness.
-Doug
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I put a board between the fence and the board that I'm cutting, so
> that the back edge of the board to be cut is at, or a bit forward of
> the center line of the blade.
>
> Make sure the blade is sharp, clean and that you cut on the pull
> strike.
Now that you mention it, I vaguely recall cutting both ways in a bit of a
hurry, that'd explain the "lifted" splinters. The blade and saw are new so
that is the likely culprit!
Thank you,
Greg
On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 09:18:39 GMT, "Tim Henrion" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Could someone recommend techniques/jigs for making
>dentil molding? My local dealers charge an outrageous
>amount of money for it and I'd like to make my own...
>
>Thanks,
>Tim
>
Make a jig similar to a box joint jig on your table saw. It will have
an index pin the same width as your dado blade, and a cleat rides in
the miter groove. I made 700 dentils, but I ganged four pieces of
stock to save time. This was the one time in 15 years I had to turn
my saw 90 degrees to accomodate the length of the molding. It took an
hour to setup and make the jig, and less than an hour to actually make
70 feet of molding. You should get details of a box-joint jig in many
woodworking books or do a Google search.