Router Table

On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:47:50 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Could I build a "portable" router table, being building a sawhorse the same
>height as my workmate, then a board that would go between. Would this work?

My Really Rubbish Router Table is a table of MDF on a frame of 1"x2"
softwood, all supported on a ten quid folding workbench leg frame.
The insert is cement board from the back of an old gas fire surround
(a much under-rated material !) It folds for storage and hangs on a
wall.

The fence is an L-girder of MDF.

An old router table of mine was made from plywood and a pair of spare
jaw mounting blocks for a workmate (a cheap spare from B&D). It went
onto my Workmate in place of the rear jaw, then the front jaw clamped
it in place. Not a bad table, but access to the router was poor
because the Workmate frame gets in the way.

I wouldn't build a router table as a "bridge" between two things. It
sounds awkward, it sound big, and it would tie up both your workmate
and your saw horse when you might want to be using them. Giving it
its own legs isn't hard.

--
Smert' spamionam

Some people with lots of years in woodworking are still using an MDO box
which stores under the JET 12"disc 6" belt sander when not in use, then
clamps into the Workmate for action.

Others pay as much for a router/table as they would pay for a decent shaper.

"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:qZ-
> >
> > Could I build a "portable" router table, being building a sawhorse the
> same
> > height as my workmate, then a board that would go between. Would this
> work?
>
> Absolutely. Many people get started with a piece of plywood with a hole in
> it as their first router table. After using something like that for
awhile,
> you'll be much more knowledgeable about what you want in buying a router
> table. You may even find depending on your use of it, that you may not
need
> to buy one.
>
>

Sam Berlyn wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Could I build a "portable" router table, being building a sawhorse
> the same height as my workmate, then a board that would go between.
> Would this work?

To give you ideas of what others have done, this is a multifunction table
that has a router table option. I may build one someday... ;-)

http://christophermerrill.net/ww/plans/UTS/Tool_Stand_1.html

-- Mark

"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I would think that making one that just clamped into the Workmate
> would be easier.

Yep...like this one :-)
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1108


ken

"Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> Could I build a "portable" router table, being building a sawhorse the
> same
> height as my workmate, then a board that would go between. Would this
> work?
>
There are lots of opportunities to drop up to $1,000 in a router table -
even more. Some of the best ones I have seen are shop-built, and not
necessarily elaborate.

A local custom woodworker, who does a lot of detail router work including
many jewelry and music boxes (fine-routing intensive) has a pretty basic
setup.

- The tabletop is a section of salvaged kitchen countertop
- The plate is this $35 special:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html#All-In_One_router_plate_kit_anchor
- Fence is fairly beefy but simple 1x4 construction, held to the tabletop
with glue clamps. No laminates, inserts, etc. He does have a simple dust
collection port screwed to it.
- The table is 2x4s, a recent upgrade from sawhorses.

He considers this a vast improvement over the sheet of plywood with a router
screwed to its bottom that he used for 20 years. Did damn good work on it
though.

Sam Berlyn wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Could I build a "portable" router table, being building a sawhorse the
> same height as my workmate, then a board that would go between. Would this
> work?

I would think that making one that just clamped into the Workmate would be
easier. As to why you would want one, the bottom line is that if you don't
know why then you don't need one.

The main benefit is that you move the stock and not the router--that in many
cases gives you more control. Beyond that you can add features to the
table that let you do things more precisely than you can easily do
hand-held.

You might want to look through Pat Warner's site <http://www.patwarner.com>
to get some ideas of what you can do with one.


>
> Sam
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:13:11 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >Hi,
>> >
>> >Can you please tell me what's the point of using a router in a table.. I
>> >could make one but I need to know why first :-)
>>
>>
>> lots of reasons.
>>
>> control. think about trying to use your router on small pieces of
>> wood, then think about the router being held still and running the
>> wood through it.
>>
>> safety. with the router held down and the wood controlled by fences
>> and featherboards you can pay more attention to making sure your
>> fingers stay the heck away from that spinning cutter.
>>
>> accuracy. think of the router table as a great big base plate, with
>> the whole thing turned upside down. there is that much more of your
>> control surface touching the wood.
>>
>> versatility. with all of that table area available to clamp stuff to
>> and lots of stuff to clamp to it like fences, featherboards, starting
>> pins, dust collection nozzles and a pretty much infinite array of bits
>> and pieces you make up as you go along...
>>
>> spend a little time surfing over to here:
>> http://www.patwarner.com/
>>
>>

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Sam Berlyn" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:qZ-
>
> Could I build a "portable" router table, being building a sawhorse the
same
> height as my workmate, then a board that would go between. Would this
work?

Absolutely. Many people get started with a piece of plywood with a hole in
it as their first router table. After using something like that for awhile,
you'll be much more knowledgeable about what you want in buying a router
table. You may even find depending on your use of it, that you may not need
to buy one.

Hi,

Could I build a "portable" router table, being building a sawhorse the same
height as my workmate, then a board that would go between. Would this work?

Sam


<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:13:11 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Hi,
> >
> >Can you please tell me what's the point of using a router in a table.. I
> >could make one but I need to know why first :-)
>
>
> lots of reasons.
>
> control. think about trying to use your router on small pieces of
> wood, then think about the router being held still and running the
> wood through it.
>
> safety. with the router held down and the wood controlled by fences
> and featherboards you can pay more attention to making sure your
> fingers stay the heck away from that spinning cutter.
>
> accuracy. think of the router table as a great big base plate, with
> the whole thing turned upside down. there is that much more of your
> control surface touching the wood.
>
> versatility. with all of that table area available to clamp stuff to
> and lots of stuff to clamp to it like fences, featherboards, starting
> pins, dust collection nozzles and a pretty much infinite array of bits
> and pieces you make up as you go along...
>
> spend a little time surfing over to here:
> http://www.patwarner.com/
>
>

On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:13:11 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi,
>
>Can you please tell me what's the point of using a router in a table.. I
>could make one but I need to know why first :-)


lots of reasons.

control. think about trying to use your router on small pieces of
wood, then think about the router being held still and running the
wood through it.

safety. with the router held down and the wood controlled by fences
and featherboards you can pay more attention to making sure your
fingers stay the heck away from that spinning cutter.

accuracy. think of the router table as a great big base plate, with
the whole thing turned upside down. there is that much more of your
control surface touching the wood.

versatility. with all of that table area available to clamp stuff to
and lots of stuff to clamp to it like fences, featherboards, starting
pins, dust collection nozzles and a pretty much infinite array of bits
and pieces you make up as you go along...

spend a little time surfing over to here:
http://www.patwarner.com/