RonB wrote:
> I have used Watco Danish Oil for years and it provides a nice finish. The
> main thing you have to remember with Danish or any oil is to wipe on initial
> coats heavy (saturate), Allow 15-30 minutes soak/dry time, then WIPE UNDRIED
> PRODUCT FROM THE SURFACE (this is most important as you build past coat 2 or
> farther). Allow the product to dry to the manufacturer's recommendation
> (longer with humidity) and repeat. Subsequent coats require less saturation
> but you still have to wipe undried product from the surface. Otherwise you
> will be among those posting "My oiled project won't dry!". One of my early
> oiled projects sat in our sunroom for 2 days drying. By then, I had a lot
> of dust to sand out.
>
> Don't take this wrong - It provides a nice, natural finish with slight
> ambering. If you remember to wipe undried oil, the rest is nearly mindless.
>
> Once you get experience with oil, try one of the wipe on polys. They
> provide the same simplicity, very nice natural finish and more durability.
>
>
BTW - the amber hue is with the Natural version. Watco is available in
various "tints" ie light walnut, dark walnut etc. A neat trick when
applying Watco is to use a wooden sanding block and 600 wet-or-dry paper
to "sand" it in. Supposedly builds up a slurry of Watco and wood
particles that help fill the pores. I let others pass judgement on this
effectiveness. You could always try it on a small scrap before tackling
a big project. I have used Watco for 25 years or so and it is pretty
much hassle free. DO OBSERVE the proper disposal of your rags and/or
papers. They will start a fire.
Philski
George wrote:
> Producing a look similar to a wood-print Formica. Real wood has pores, wood
> prints do not.
>
> "philski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> A neat trick when
>
>>applying Watco is to use a wooden sanding block and 600 wet-or-dry paper
>>to "sand" it in. Supposedly builds up a slurry of Watco and wood
>>particles that help fill the pores. I let others pass judgement on this
>>effectiveness.
>
>
>
george,
i have to agree to some extent. but good looking hand-rubbed finishes
usually have the pores sealed. i am not sure you can achieve an
absolutely smooth (poreless) finish with a Danish Oil but French
Polished shellacs and even good sprayed lacquers don't exhibit the
dimples that are there because of porous woods. the pores are usually
filled. following a Watco finish with a varnish is a common finish as
well. i guess it is a matter of preference huh?
Philski
I frequently use Watco Danish oil and like it. I've never used any
other Watco product.
"Frosty Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> What is everyone's take on the Watco Finishes? Good, Bad or Indifferent?
> I'm looking for a good all around finishes for small crafted items and maybe
> some furniture items.
>
> Thanks
> George
Producing a look similar to a wood-print Formica. Real wood has pores, wood
prints do not.
"philski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
A neat trick when
> applying Watco is to use a wooden sanding block and 600 wet-or-dry paper
> to "sand" it in. Supposedly builds up a slurry of Watco and wood
> particles that help fill the pores. I let others pass judgement on this
> effectiveness.
I guess the fillers are contrasting in most others.
"philski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George wrote:
>
> > Producing a look similar to a wood-print Formica. Real wood has pores,
wood
> > prints do not.
> >
> > "philski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > A neat trick when
> >
> >>applying Watco is to use a wooden sanding block and 600 wet-or-dry paper
> >>to "sand" it in. Supposedly builds up a slurry of Watco and wood
> >>particles that help fill the pores. I let others pass judgement on this
> >>effectiveness.
> >
> >
> >
> george,
> i have to agree to some extent. but good looking hand-rubbed finishes
> usually have the pores sealed. i am not sure you can achieve an
> absolutely smooth (poreless) finish with a Danish Oil but French
> Polished shellacs and even good sprayed lacquers don't exhibit the
> dimples that are there because of porous woods. the pores are usually
> filled. following a Watco finish with a varnish is a common finish as
> well. i guess it is a matter of preference huh?
>
> Philski
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
> What is everyone's take on the Watco Finishes? Good, Bad or Indifferent?
> I'm looking for a good all around finishes for small crafted items and maybe
> some furniture items.
>
> Thanks
> George
>
>
>
Personal opinion, Watco is a good finish and there is no such thing as a
good all a round finish. That is, a finish that meets the two major
requirements of a finish.
However, if you just want a finish you can put on everything with no
thought in the matter use a polyurethane varnish. It will cover the
major bases quite nicely.
--
MikeG
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
[email protected]
Thanks Kevin
"Kevin Singleton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"Frosty Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is everyone's take on the Watco Finishes? Good, Bad or Indifferent?
> I'm looking for a good all around finishes for small crafted items and
> maybe
> some furniture items.
>
I like Watco. Be aware that it's not a finish that builds a surface film.
I just let it soak in, and keep wiping it down, now and then. You really
can't go wrong.
--
Kevin
-=#=-
www.freerepublic.com
On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 22:02:56 -0400, "Frosty Thunder"
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>What is everyone's take on the Watco Finishes? Good, Bad or Indifferent?
>I'm looking for a good all around finishes for small crafted items and maybe
>some furniture items.
I used to use Watco exclusively until I met Waterlox. It
combined the nice aspects of Watco with a tung oil and
more varnish, so it builds more quickly. It's less work
and stinks less than Watco.
Try them both.
==============================================================
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==============================================================
I have used Watco Danish Oil for years and it provides a nice finish. The
main thing you have to remember with Danish or any oil is to wipe on initial
coats heavy (saturate), Allow 15-30 minutes soak/dry time, then WIPE UNDRIED
PRODUCT FROM THE SURFACE (this is most important as you build past coat 2 or
farther). Allow the product to dry to the manufacturer's recommendation
(longer with humidity) and repeat. Subsequent coats require less saturation
but you still have to wipe undried product from the surface. Otherwise you
will be among those posting "My oiled project won't dry!". One of my early
oiled projects sat in our sunroom for 2 days drying. By then, I had a lot
of dust to sand out.
Don't take this wrong - It provides a nice, natural finish with slight
ambering. If you remember to wipe undried oil, the rest is nearly mindless.
Once you get experience with oil, try one of the wipe on polys. They
provide the same simplicity, very nice natural finish and more durability.
"Frosty Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is everyone's take on the Watco Finishes? Good, Bad or Indifferent?
> I'm looking for a good all around finishes for small crafted items and
> maybe
> some furniture items.
>
I like Watco. Be aware that it's not a finish that builds a surface film.
I just let it soak in, and keep wiping it down, now and then. You really
can't go wrong.
--
Kevin
-=#=-
www.freerepublic.com