This tool is sort of on the fringe of this newsgroup, but I never
saw it before today.
https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Complete-Metric/dp/B06ZYD4SS8
It's gotta be doable for (much?) less than $50. You can treat it
as a "Guess what it's for" post! : ) I thought it would nicely
accessorize a tap and die set. I sought to find a tap and die
set at my local Sears "going out of business" sale, which my wife
told me about yesterday... but I could see I was late to the
party. It felt like a funeral at the store...I'll miss it. I
couldn't help but think of happier times (concrete memories of
this, that, and the other)...details omitted.
On Sat, 12 Jan 2019 03:54:35 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Kraus wrote:
>
>> A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot cheaper.
>>
>> See
>> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=pitch+gauge
>>
>
>I ordered one of those tonight. I'll keep my eyes open for the
>right tap and die set. "Hanson" apparently was a recommended
>brand. Looks like "Irwin" may have bought it up. Handmade tap
>and die wrenches might make satisfying projects...though that's
>probably the sort of project that may be most successful when you
>have a working example (and/or specifications) in front of you.
>
>Another project I have, and have had for a number of years,
>involves bending 1/2"x1/8"cold steel bar into a circular shape
>about 12" in diameter, and then a 2nd piece of the same material
>which wraps snugly around the first piece. Since I only need
>these 2 pieces I don't intend to buy new tooling for it. I hope
>that a homemade "wooden anvil" of the right curvature may work.
>I actually already bought a small tap and tap wrench for this
>project. The 2nd piece shows up very well in the following
>picture (if you click on it, it will play a video).
>
>http://bell.20m.com/banjosrelicpage.html
>
Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you
just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable
roller as you go untill you get the radius you need.
Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Clare Snyder wrote:
>>
>>> Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you
>>> just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable
>>> roller as you go untill you get the radius you need.
>>
>>
>> I thought of trying that. Wood rollers okay? If I make them like
>> "spools" of the right width, I might even end up with concentric
>> rings that lay flat. I bought enough material (soft steel) to
>> allow me at least one mistake, and of course, I can always buy
>> more. I already have the Oak hoop and the calf skin. Any
>> difference between the suitability of soft maple versus hard
>> maple for the neck? I suppose, besides work-ability, the main
>> issue is the resistance to any twisting and turning. More than 10
>> years ago, when I started this project, increasingly aware of how
>> little I knew about woodworking, I was better-versed in the
>> details. That's when I switched from reading rec.banjomaking to
>> rec.woodworking. The former may not be very active anymore.
>> I can think up projects for myself faster than I can do them...
>> When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
>> This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
>> deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
> A set of ball bearings will work better. I've seen it done with a
> vice. Bolt a plate with 2 bearings to one jaw, and 1 bearing to the
> other jaw. Bearings running horizontally - You could use hardwood
> blocks - 2X2 oak for instance, with bearings bolted through one
> way,and jaw-bolts the other direction. Pull the metal through,
> crankthe vise 1/4 turn orwhatever, and pull through again - repeat
> untill you have your hoop.
>
I made some sketches, and got it right on the 3rd try! It seems
like a very good idea! I'll let you know about how it goes.
Thank you!
Bill
On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 1:48:40 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
> Clare Snyder wrote:
>
> > Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times -
> > as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when
> > used after soaking it with bleach.
> >
>
> I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?)
> parts water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10
> minutes. Am I on the right track?
These images show the results of cleaning a 30+ year old deck with a low-end
Greenworks 1600 psi power washer and Krud Kutter deck wash. This is the first
time the deck had been cleaned other than an occasional rinse with a hose.
This image is mid-cleaning, with the clean portion still wet.
https://i.imgur.com/d2Wt0gY.jpg
This image was taken the next day, when the deck was mostly dry. This deck
hardly gets any sun, so it takes a while to dry out.
https://i.imgur.com/ER8tQjf.jpg
I chose Krud Kutter because it is supposed to be safe for plants and animals.
My cat lapped up a little water from a puddle and is still around. Obviously
the puddle was more water than Krud Kutter, but the cat isn't walking around
sideways or falling over a lot. ;-)
At 1600 PSI, there was negligible damage to the wood itself. Some corners of
the railings, where there were sharp edges, ended up with some "hair". The
balusters and deck boards, which have rounded edges, were not impacted at all.
I'm going to stain it this spring, so I'll probably give it a quick wash again
and then hit the edges of the railings with some sandpaper once it dries.
I do suggest that you wet down any nearby vegetation before you start and
rinse it every now and then just to be extra safe.
On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 21:35:40 -0600, [email protected] (Jerry
Osage) wrote:
>On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
>>This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
>>deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )
>>
>Bill, I suggest that before you use a power washer on a wooden deck that you
>check it out on an inconspicuous place. A high pressure water jet can do bad
>things to wood.
Yes, be very careful and use a wide spray. Before using a pressure
washer, I'd try TSP, then if that didn't do enough, oxalic acid.
On 12/18/2018 3:41 AM, Bill wrote:
> This tool is sort of on the fringe of this newsgroup, but I never saw it
> before today.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Complete-Metric/dp/B06ZYD4SS8
>
> It's gotta be doable for (much?) less than $50. You can treat it as a
> "Guess what it's for" post! : ) I thought it would nicely accessorize a
> tap and die set. I sought to find a tap and die set at my local Sears
> "going out of business" sale, which my wife told me about yesterday... but
> I could see I was late to the party. It felt like a funeral at the
> store...I'll miss it. I couldn't help but think of happier times (concrete
> memories of this, that, and the other)...details omitted.
I've had one of those, in a more limited form and not so all-inclusive, for
decades now. Most of the time it isn't needed but when it is usually
_really_ needed. Has definitely been useful in the WW shop since most of my
big equipment is metric and I don't have a huge stock of that hardware on hand.
Clare Snyder wrote:
> Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times -
> as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when
> used after soaking it with bleach.
>
I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?)
parts water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10
minutes. Am I on the right track?
Clare Snyder wrote:
> Doesn't matter what lathe you buy, it will either be "too big" or "two
> small" for some project you decide you would like to make.
>
> I thought my 7 inch would suit most of my "needs" but many times I
> wish I had a 10.
>
> Then there are times the 7 incher is too cumbersome for some fiddly
> little job and I withI had a 3 inch sherline or a jeweller's lathe.
tubalcain has *3* full size lathes (he seems to prefer the
Craftsman Atlas for his smaller work). And it's hard to see how
you can have a lathe and not also have a mill... I mean, it's
like a natural pair... ; )
>>
>> I still have the pitch gauge on my "wish list" ($12.49). I
>> noticed that Starrett has one for $45.00.
>
>
> There is nothing wrong with a $45 Starrett thread gauge, for sure -
> but there are plenty of perfectly adequate thread gauges available for
> significantly less. >Try your local Harbor Freight or equivalent.
Yes, I haven't checked at HF, but I will. They have been
threatening to quit sending me their catalogs if I don't use one
of their coupons...
>> The only four-jawed 5"
>> chuck having independent jaws at McMaster-Carr is $849. That was
>> the first place I looked--I was glad to see that you can get
>> similar ones at other places for significantly less. I think you
>> still need a "backing plate", but I'm not sure why (because I
>> don't believe that the 3 jawed chuck requires one).
>
>
> Any "universal" chuck needs a backing plate as the backing plate has
> the threaded mounting to couple to the spindle. The 3 jaw chuck that
> comes with your lathe is either designed to fit the lathe or has a
> backing plate. If the manufacturer makes the check specifically for
> that lathe and it does not have a "backing plate" there is a good
> chance they also make a similar 4 jaw. My Myford Super 7 came with
> both 3 and 4 jaw chucks to fit the lathe.
Thank you for answering my question. Many of the lathes I had
been viewing, at precisionmatthews.com came with 3 and 4 jaw
chucks (I don't believe the Grizzly's are packaged like that). It
sort of bothered me that the PM machines were all 110v and not
220v. I know 3 phase generally improves results on a lathe (the
motor getting 3 pulses per revolution instead of 1), so I assume
that 220v would be better than 110v. I could be mistaken.
Here is a link to one I can't justify anyway:
https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1228vf-lb/
Incidentally, the price shown is without DRO ("digital read
out"), which seems to be highly regarded. That add-on is $500,
with installation being $300 more! It just gets stupid'er and
stupid'er (for a hobbyist)--I'll keep my eyes on craigslist, etc.
How has your 7" lathe worked out for you? Make anything cool?
Best,
Bill
Puckdropper wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> tubalcain has *3* full size lathes (he seems to prefer the
>> Craftsman Atlas for his smaller work). And it's hard to see how
>> you can have a lathe and not also have a mill... I mean, it's
>> like a natural pair... ; )
>
> You can put an endmill in the lathe and use it as a mill, but it doesn't
> seem to work all that well. At least it didn't on my little Taig. It
> seems to me that milling on the lathe is more of a "checkbox" feature than
> anything actually useful.
>
> Puckdropper
>
I bought myself a very inexpensive angle grinder as a Christmas
gift at Menards on "Black Friday". I never had one before. But
for $14.99 with 20 grinding and cutting disks in the box, I have
one now. HF even had one for the low price of $9.99, but w/o the
disks. It's only about 4 Amps, which I observed is low compared
to many other models, but like I said, I never had one before;
I'll see how I like it. For its first test, come spring, I have
some nice heavy galvanized sheet metal that I am recycling for my
own use (I need to cut the "bended-appendages" off of it).
I mention the above because for the precision I need, an angle
grinder appears to be able to accomplish much of what a mill does
(not the drilling of course). I'm seen people on YouTube use them
to shape knife blades. Of course, it would be of any help for an
convex cut such as a hole.
Bill
A endmill takes some power to cut with. In a lathe one takes light cuts
at the correct
surface speed. A taig may not be enough mass to keep it working well.
I assume you have a tool post vice. And you are using the compound to
slot..... moving work into and away from the mill.
I have an 11x44 and it came with two precision chucks. It is a nice
Horse Power or so on it
and is oversized to stay cool. The ways are chrome which make it like
new. One of the
items I bought was a nice digital indicator.
Martin
On 1/1/2019 6:16 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> tubalcain has *3* full size lathes (he seems to prefer the
>> Craftsman Atlas for his smaller work). And it's hard to see how
>> you can have a lathe and not also have a mill... I mean, it's
>> like a natural pair... ; )
>
> You can put an endmill in the lathe and use it as a mill, but it doesn't
> seem to work all that well. At least it didn't on my little Taig. It
> seems to me that milling on the lathe is more of a "checkbox" feature than
> anything actually useful.
>
> Puckdropper
>
Bill wrote:
> Larry Kraus wrote:
>
>> A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot
>> cheaper.
>>
>> See
>> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=pitch+gauge
>>
>
> Thanks, I appreciate the lesson!
>
> Bill
I thought I would share how things went for me since this thread.
Following my nose, I watched a YouTube video of someone sharing
his collection of his 3rd generation collection of tapping
wrenches (heirlooms!)--up to size #9, I believe. Good "Old
iron"...I haven't seen many nice tap and die sets at our favorite
BORGs--I had hoped to pick up one at Sears on its way out...the
product reviews were not raves however. Then YouTube served me a
video of someone tapping threads on a lathe. That rekindled my
recollection of using a metal lathe in high school. After that,
I'm sure I watched no less than 50 lathe-related videos: Some of
the best content by "tubalcain/MrPete222" and "This Old Tony", in
case you are interested in following any of my tracks. One of the
best ones concerned how to shape a cutting tool. I find blades
and sharpening an interesting matter, and that part was done for
me in high school--I struggled to sharpen a drill bit back then
and never got over it. Then I drifted to hobby-machinist.com and
found some things to read (including a famous little owners
manual by the South Bend Lathe Co. that has been printed into a
72 page book). Then yesterday I started comparing lathes from one
web site against another. Bracket creep is real (remember
"Computer Shopper" magazine?) I learned that by the time you get
to a variable speed machine which weighs 450 pounds or more, with
basic (and still incomplete) tooling, you are up to $4000 or more
($200-250 of any machine is for shipping). I guess the whole
journey fed my "toolitis", but the last realization sobered me up
a bit. When I think about what I "need to turn out of metal", I
have a pretty short list. Seems like many things you can think
about building in metal, you can also think about building in
wood--transferable thinking. Even many of the people
(non-professionals) at hobby-machinist.com are lacking for ideas
of what to make. Of course, many have "mini-lathes", which to
some (including me, a week ago, for instance) aren't "real"
lathes--but in another sense they may make more sense. I mean,
I'm not sure if anyone would notice if the homemade knobs on my
woodworking projects were off by more than "two tenths" (of a
thou)". I'm picking up some of the lingo :)
I still have the pitch gauge on my "wish list" ($12.49). I
noticed that Starrett has one for $45.00. The only four-jawed 5"
chuck having independent jaws at McMaster-Carr is $849. That was
the first place I looked--I was glad to see that you can get
similar ones at other places for significantly less. I think you
still need a "backing plate", but I'm not sure why (because I
don't believe that the 3 jawed chuck requires one). I assume the
$849 chuck is made of tool steel, but I am just guessing.
By the way, did you know that standardized metal screws (not ones
made by blacksmiths) were invented about 1870. I find it simply
"awesome" to think about how that technology proliferated. I only
need to look back 4, or at most 5, generations to get back to 1870.
Cheers (and best wishes for 2019!),
Bill
Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> tubalcain has *3* full size lathes (he seems to prefer the
> Craftsman Atlas for his smaller work). And it's hard to see how
> you can have a lathe and not also have a mill... I mean, it's
> like a natural pair... ; )
You can put an endmill in the lathe and use it as a mill, but it doesn't
seem to work all that well. At least it didn't on my little Taig. It
seems to me that milling on the lathe is more of a "checkbox" feature than
anything actually useful.
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
"Larry Kraus" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot cheaper.
>See
>https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=pitch+gauge
They are handy for sure...
From a practical standpoint, if I don't have needed bolts or nuts in
inventory I have to go out and buy them. The hardware store where I buy such
things has a test board full of nuts and bolts, both SAE and metric, in
various diameters and thread pitches, with which I can test hardware for
size. To a large degree I can eyeball bolts and nuts and tell what they are
but some SAE and metric hardware is very similar looking so having the test
board is very useful.
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Clare Snyder wrote:
>
> > Doesn't matter what lathe you buy, it will either be "too big" or "two
> > small" for some project you decide you would like to make.
> >
> > I thought my 7 inch would suit most of my "needs" but many times I
> > wish I had a 10.
> >
> > Then there are times the 7 incher is too cumbersome for some fiddly
> > little job and I withI had a 3 inch sherline or a jeweller's lathe.
>
>
> tubalcain has *3* full size lathes (he seems to prefer the
> Craftsman Atlas for his smaller work). And it's hard to see how
> you can have a lathe and not also have a mill... I mean, it's
> like a natural pair... ; )
>
>
> >>
> >> I still have the pitch gauge on my "wish list" ($12.49). I
> >> noticed that Starrett has one for $45.00.
> >
> >
> > There is nothing wrong with a $45 Starrett thread gauge, for sure -
> > but there are plenty of perfectly adequate thread gauges available for
> > significantly less. >Try your local Harbor Freight or equivalent.
>
> Yes, I haven't checked at HF, but I will. They have been
> threatening to quit sending me their catalogs if I don't use one
> of their coupons...
Last day to use your 25% off coupon!
http://www.hfqpdb.com/coupons/25_percent_off_1544389355.1516.jpg
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-x-12-inch-precision-benchtop-lathe-44859.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-12-inch-precision-mini-lathe-93799.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-horsepower-heavy-duty-milling-drilling-machine-33686.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/vertical-milling-machine-40939.html
On Mon, 31 Dec 2018 03:01:51 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>> Larry Kraus wrote:
>>
>>> A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot
>>> cheaper.
>>>
>>> See
>>> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=pitch+gauge
>>>
>>
>> Thanks, I appreciate the lesson!
>>
>> Bill
>
>
>I thought I would share how things went for me since this thread.
>Following my nose, I watched a YouTube video of someone sharing
>his collection of his 3rd generation collection of tapping
>wrenches (heirlooms!)--up to size #9, I believe. Good "Old
>iron"...I haven't seen many nice tap and die sets at our favorite
>BORGs--I had hoped to pick up one at Sears on its way out...the
>product reviews were not raves however. Then YouTube served me a
>video of someone tapping threads on a lathe. That rekindled my
>recollection of using a metal lathe in high school. After that,
>I'm sure I watched no less than 50 lathe-related videos: Some of
>the best content by "tubalcain/MrPete222" and "This Old Tony", in
>case you are interested in following any of my tracks. One of the
>best ones concerned how to shape a cutting tool. I find blades
>and sharpening an interesting matter, and that part was done for
>me in high school--I struggled to sharpen a drill bit back then
>and never got over it. Then I drifted to hobby-machinist.com and
>found some things to read (including a famous little owners
>manual by the South Bend Lathe Co. that has been printed into a
>72 page book). Then yesterday I started comparing lathes from one
>web site against another. Bracket creep is real (remember
>"Computer Shopper" magazine?) I learned that by the time you get
>to a variable speed machine which weighs 450 pounds or more, with
>basic (and still incomplete) tooling, you are up to $4000 or more
>($200-250 of any machine is for shipping). I guess the whole
>journey fed my "toolitis", but the last realization sobered me up
>a bit. When I think about what I "need to turn out of metal", I
>have a pretty short list. Seems like many things you can think
>about building in metal, you can also think about building in
>wood--transferable thinking. Even many of the people
>(non-professionals) at hobby-machinist.com are lacking for ideas
>of what to make. Of course, many have "mini-lathes", which to
>some (including me, a week ago, for instance) aren't "real"
>lathes--but in another sense they may make more sense. I mean,
>I'm not sure if anyone would notice if the homemade knobs on my
>woodworking projects were off by more than "two tenths" (of a
>thou)". I'm picking up some of the lingo :)
Doesn't matter what lathe you buy, it will either be "too big" or "two
small" for some project you decide you would like to make.
I thought my 7 inch would suit most of my "needs" but many times I
wish I had a 10.
Then there are times the 7 incher is too cumbersome for some fiddly
little job and I withI had a 3 inch sherline or a jeweller's lathe.
>
>I still have the pitch gauge on my "wish list" ($12.49). I
>noticed that Starrett has one for $45.00.
There is nothing wrong with a $45 Starrett thread gauge, for sure -
but there are plenty of perfectly adequate thread gauges available for
significantly less. Try your local Harbor Freight or equivalent.
> The only four-jawed 5"
>chuck having independent jaws at McMaster-Carr is $849. That was
>the first place I looked--I was glad to see that you can get
>similar ones at other places for significantly less. I think you
>still need a "backing plate", but I'm not sure why (because I
>don't believe that the 3 jawed chuck requires one).
Any "universal" chuck needs a backing plate as the backing plate has
the threaded mounting to couple to the spindle. The 3 jaw chuck that
comes with your lathe is either designed to fit the lathe or has a
backing plate. If the manufacturer makes the check specifically for
that lathe and it does not have a "backing plate" there is a good
chance they also make a similar 4 jaw. My Myford Super 7 came with
both 3 and 4 jaw chucks to fit the lathe.
> I assume the
>$849 chuck is made of tool steel, but I am just guessing.
>
>By the way, did you know that standardized metal screws (not ones
>made by blacksmiths) were invented about 1870. I find it simply
>"awesome" to think about how that technology proliferated. I only
>need to look back 4, or at most 5, generations to get back to 1870.
>
The beauty of standards (as in either the computer world or machining)
is there are SO MANY to choose from!!!!
>Cheers (and best wishes for 2019!),
>Bill
And to you too!
On Mon, 14 Jan 2019 07:15:05 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 1:48:40 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
>> Clare Snyder wrote:
>>
>> > Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times -
>> > as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when
>> > used after soaking it with bleach.
>> >
>>
>> I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?)
>> parts water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10
>> minutes. Am I on the right track?
I used about 8:1 sprayed on with a garden sprayer onto a still-wet
pre-washed deck
>
>These images show the results of cleaning a 30+ year old deck with a low-end
>Greenworks 1600 psi power washer and Krud Kutter deck wash. This is the first
>time the deck had been cleaned other than an occasional rinse with a hose.
>
>This image is mid-cleaning, with the clean portion still wet.
>
>https://i.imgur.com/d2Wt0gY.jpg
>
>This image was taken the next day, when the deck was mostly dry. This deck
>hardly gets any sun, so it takes a while to dry out.
>
>https://i.imgur.com/ER8tQjf.jpg
Looks about like my SYP deck after cleaning.
>
>I chose Krud Kutter because it is supposed to be safe for plants and animals.
>My cat lapped up a little water from a puddle and is still around. Obviously
>the puddle was more water than Krud Kutter, but the cat isn't walking around
>sideways or falling over a lot. ;-)
>
>At 1600 PSI, there was negligible damage to the wood itself. Some corners of
>the railings, where there were sharp edges, ended up with some "hair". The
>balusters and deck boards, which have rounded edges, were not impacted at all.
>I'm going to stain it this spring, so I'll probably give it a quick wash again
>and then hit the edges of the railings with some sandpaper once it dries.
>
>I do suggest that you wet down any nearby vegetation before you start and
>rinse it every now and then just to be extra safe.
About what I did with the bleach.
I did try the "active oxygen" cleaner and it was pretty much useless.
I then made the mistake of applying a "deck restore" product that
started peeling about 3 days later. What a DISASTER. I got my money
back but I'm left dealing with the aftermath - which includes trapped
moisture causing some boards to rot faster than they otherwise would
have - as well as sheets of the product blowing across the yard in
wind storms.
On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 21:35:40 -0600, [email protected] (Jerry
Osage) wrote:
>On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
>>This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
>>deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )
>>
>Bill, I suggest that before you use a power washer on a wooden deck that you
>check it out on an inconspicuous place. A high pressure water jet can do bad
>things to wood.
Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times -
as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when
used after soaking it with bleach.
On Mon, 31 Dec 2018 17:59:45 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Clare Snyder wrote:
>
>> Doesn't matter what lathe you buy, it will either be "too big" or "two
>> small" for some project you decide you would like to make.
>>
>> I thought my 7 inch would suit most of my "needs" but many times I
>> wish I had a 10.
>>
>> Then there are times the 7 incher is too cumbersome for some fiddly
>> little job and I withI had a 3 inch sherline or a jeweller's lathe.
>
>
>tubalcain has *3* full size lathes (he seems to prefer the
>Craftsman Atlas for his smaller work). And it's hard to see how
>you can have a lathe and not also have a mill... I mean, it's
>like a natural pair... ; )
>
>
>>>
>>> I still have the pitch gauge on my "wish list" ($12.49). I
>>> noticed that Starrett has one for $45.00.
>>
>>
>> There is nothing wrong with a $45 Starrett thread gauge, for sure -
>> but there are plenty of perfectly adequate thread gauges available for
>> significantly less. >Try your local Harbor Freight or equivalent.
>
>Yes, I haven't checked at HF, but I will. They have been
>threatening to quit sending me their catalogs if I don't use one
>of their coupons...
>
>
>
>>> The only four-jawed 5"
>>> chuck having independent jaws at McMaster-Carr is $849. That was
>>> the first place I looked--I was glad to see that you can get
>>> similar ones at other places for significantly less. I think you
>>> still need a "backing plate", but I'm not sure why (because I
>>> don't believe that the 3 jawed chuck requires one).
>>
>>
>> Any "universal" chuck needs a backing plate as the backing plate has
>> the threaded mounting to couple to the spindle. The 3 jaw chuck that
>> comes with your lathe is either designed to fit the lathe or has a
>> backing plate. If the manufacturer makes the check specifically for
>> that lathe and it does not have a "backing plate" there is a good
>> chance they also make a similar 4 jaw. My Myford Super 7 came with
>> both 3 and 4 jaw chucks to fit the lathe.
>
>Thank you for answering my question. Many of the lathes I had
>been viewing, at precisionmatthews.com came with 3 and 4 jaw
>chucks (I don't believe the Grizzly's are packaged like that). It
>sort of bothered me that the PM machines were all 110v and not
>220v. I know 3 phase generally improves results on a lathe (the
>motor getting 3 pulses per revolution instead of 1), so I assume
>that 220v would be better than 110v. I could be mistaken.
>
>Here is a link to one I can't justify anyway:
>https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1228vf-lb/
>
>Incidentally, the price shown is without DRO ("digital read
>out"), which seems to be highly regarded. That add-on is $500,
>with installation being $300 more! It just gets stupid'er and
>stupid'er (for a hobbyist)--I'll keep my eyes on craigslist, etc.
>
>How has your 7" lathe worked out for you? Make anything cool?
>
>Best,
>Bill
First of all, 120 vs 240 makes no difference in smoothness - just
cuts the current in half. I wouldn't worry about getting 240 for
anything under a 9 inch.
The 7 has been fine - I've made lots of little parts for projects over
the years - pins and bushings for linkages on the airplane project,
some modified parts for the cars over the years - most recently a new
gearshift for the '96 Ranger. Some bicycle parts and repair parts for
the lawn mower.
No major lathe projects
On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Clare Snyder wrote:
>
>> Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you
>> just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable
>> roller as you go untill you get the radius you need.
>
>
>I thought of trying that. Wood rollers okay? If I make them like
>"spools" of the right width, I might even end up with concentric
>rings that lay flat. I bought enough material (soft steel) to
>allow me at least one mistake, and of course, I can always buy
>more. I already have the Oak hoop and the calf skin. Any
>difference between the suitability of soft maple versus hard
>maple for the neck? I suppose, besides work-ability, the main
>issue is the resistance to any twisting and turning. More than 10
>years ago, when I started this project, increasingly aware of how
>little I knew about woodworking, I was better-versed in the
>details. That's when I switched from reading rec.banjomaking to
>rec.woodworking. The former may not be very active anymore.
>I can think up projects for myself faster than I can do them...
>When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
>This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
>deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )
>
>Bill
>
>
A set of ball bearings will work better. I've seen it done with a
vice. Bolt a plate with 2 bearings to one jaw, and 1 bearing to the
other jaw. Bearings running horizontally - You could use hardwood
blocks - 2X2 oak for instance, with bearings bolted through one
way,and jaw-bolts the other direction. Pull the metal through,
crankthe vise 1/4 turn orwhatever, and pull through again - repeat
untill you have your hoop.
Clare Snyder wrote:Some bicycle parts and repair parts for> the
lawn mower.> No major lathe projects
Funny you should mention lawnmowers. Having replaced the lower
portion of the handle on my lawnmower twice (at about $45 each
time for the part), I decided that the next time I'd try to find
another way to repair it. The handle is made of hollow tubing.
If I fitted and inserted (and bolted) into the top half a *solid"
steel extension, that would definitely take care of the
connection there. And I could cut off enough meat at the other
end, as necessary, to fit two bolts that attach to the
frame/base. I never thought of the "joinery/fabrication" in the
previous sentence before. Until now, I have been trying to think
of a way to use angle iron, since it is strong and available, but
I have not envisioned an easy way to attach it at the base. I
like your approach, of using the lathe, better. Appears I would
need one having a 1" bore or so. I'll add a stroke to the
"reasons to have a lathe column"... ; )
Bill
Larry Kraus wrote:
> A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot cheaper.
>
> See
> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=pitch+gauge
>
I ordered one of those tonight. I'll keep my eyes open for the
right tap and die set. "Hanson" apparently was a recommended
brand. Looks like "Irwin" may have bought it up. Handmade tap
and die wrenches might make satisfying projects...though that's
probably the sort of project that may be most successful when you
have a working example (and/or specifications) in front of you.
Another project I have, and have had for a number of years,
involves bending 1/2"x1/8"cold steel bar into a circular shape
about 12" in diameter, and then a 2nd piece of the same material
which wraps snugly around the first piece. Since I only need
these 2 pieces I don't intend to buy new tooling for it. I hope
that a homemade "wooden anvil" of the right curvature may work.
I actually already bought a small tap and tap wrench for this
project. The 2nd piece shows up very well in the following
picture (if you click on it, it will play a video).
http://bell.20m.com/banjosrelicpage.html
On 12/18/2018 3:41 AM, Bill wrote:
> This tool is sort of on the fringe of this newsgroup, but I never saw it
> before today.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Complete-Metric/dp/B06ZYD4SS8
>
> It's gotta be doable for (much?) less than $50. You can treat it as a
> "Guess what it's for" post! : ) I thought it would nicely accessorize
> a tap and die set. I sought to find a tap and die set at my local Sears
> "going out of business" sale, which my wife told me about yesterday...
> but I could see I was late to the party. It felt like a funeral at the
> store...I'll miss it. I couldn't help but think of happier times
> (concrete memories of this, that, and the other)...details omitted.
I have two basic sets of taps and dies, one with inch sizes, one metric.
Each came with a pitch gauge, which is all I've ever needed. I don't
see the point of a "thread checker". The gauge lets me verify the pitch,
I have calipers to measure the diameter, and if I need to check the
condition of a thread, I likely already have a bolt or nut to test it.
A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot cheaper.
See
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=pitch+gauge
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 13:52:56 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"Larry Kraus" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
>>A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot cheaper.
>
>>See
>>https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=pitch+gauge
>
>They are handy for sure...
>
>From a practical standpoint, if I don't have needed bolts or nuts in
>inventory I have to go out and buy them. The hardware store where I buy such
>things has a test board full of nuts and bolts, both SAE and metric, in
>various diameters and thread pitches, with which I can test hardware for
>size. To a large degree I can eyeball bolts and nuts and tell what they are
>but some SAE and metric hardware is very similar looking so having the test
>board is very useful.
>
+1
I keep most SAE screws around but once in a while I come across one
that's unusual (larger or smaller than I normally use, or fine where
coarse is "normal" and vers-visa). I generally don't keep metric
screws around so, as you say, they're great for identifying these so I
don't cross-thread the wrong screw. Well worth the money.
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> These images show the results of cleaning a 30+ year old deck with a low-end
> Greenworks 1600 psi power washer and Krud Kutter deck wash. This is the first
> time the deck had been cleaned other than an occasional rinse with a hose.
>
> This image is mid-cleaning, with the clean portion still wet.
>
> https://i.imgur.com/d2Wt0gY.jpg
>
> This image was taken the next day, when the deck was mostly dry. This deck
> hardly gets any sun, so it takes a while to dry out.
>
> https://i.imgur.com/ER8tQjf.jpg
>
> I chose Krud Kutter because it is supposed to be safe for plants and animals.
I went and checked, and I have most of a gallon of "Jomax" (which
one adds bleach to) left over from another project. It is safer
than using pure bleach too, which appeals to me. I'll try that
first. I still will need to cover all the plants/spirea which
surround the deck (not hard to do). Thanks for the tips! It's
nice to have a plan, so that after the snow melts--and maybe a
few weeks after that, I can hit the ground running! I'll take
before/after pics, because I think they are motivating to others! : )
Bill
On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
>This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
>deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )
>
Bill, I suggest that before you use a power washer on a wooden deck that you
check it out on an inconspicuous place. A high pressure water jet can do bad
things to wood.
--
Jerry O.
On Tue, 18 Dec 2018 03:41:30 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>This tool is sort of on the fringe of this newsgroup, but I never
>saw it before today.
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Complete-Metric/dp/B06ZYD4SS8
I picked up a set of something like this at Woodcraft a couple of
years ago. The set of four (large/small x SAE/metric) was more
expensive than that, though.
<https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=thread+checker&button=search>
They're well worth the money.
>It's gotta be doable for (much?) less than $50. You can treat it
>as a "Guess what it's for" post! : ) I thought it would nicely
>accessorize a tap and die set. I sought to find a tap and die
>set at my local Sears "going out of business" sale, which my wife
>told me about yesterday... but I could see I was late to the
>party. It felt like a funeral at the store...I'll miss it. I
>couldn't help but think of happier times (concrete memories of
>this, that, and the other)...details omitted.
Sears has been dead for four decades but just haven't admitted it.
Pull the plug, already.
"Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
This tool is sort of on the fringe of this newsgroup, but I never
saw it before today.
https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Complete-Metric/dp/B06ZYD4SS8
It's gotta be doable for (much?) less than $50. You can treat it
as a "Guess what it's for" post! : ) I thought it would nicely
accessorize a tap and die set. I sought to find a tap and die
set at my local Sears "going out of business" sale, which my wife
told me about yesterday... but I could see I was late to the
party. It felt like a funeral at the store...I'll miss it. I
couldn't help but think of happier times (concrete memories of
this, that, and the other)...details omitted.
*************
I've got a set of those or very similar. I use them once in a while to see
what something is, but never to check a thread I am cutting. If I am using
a tap or die I just trust the tap or die to be what it is. If I am single
form thread milling or or turning an external thread I use pitch wires and a
micrometer. If itâs a one off single application I may just check it
against its mating part.
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"Larry Kraus" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot cheaper.
>See
>https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=pitch+gauge
They are handy for sure...
From a practical standpoint, if I don't have needed bolts or nuts in
inventory I have to go out and buy them. The hardware store where I buy such
things has a test board full of nuts and bolts, both SAE and metric, in
various diameters and thread pitches, with which I can test hardware for
size. To a large degree I can eyeball bolts and nuts and tell what they are
but some SAE and metric hardware is very similar looking so having the test
board is very useful.
*********************
5/16-24 and 8M1 will get you. If threads are H3 or looser they will thread
together 3-4 turns before they bind up.
On 1/14/2019 1:48 AM, Bill wrote:
> Clare Snyder wrote:
>
>> Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times -
>> as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when
>> used after soaking it with bleach.
>>
>
> I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?) parts
> water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10 minutes. Am I on
> the right track?
Bleach is your friend, Power washer not. I removed a 16x32' above
ground pool a few years ago that was abutted to my deck. The wolmanized
2x12's that were exposed for the first time in 20+ years were black. I
got a brush and used straight bleach and with no effort, and I mean no
effort, the wolmanized lumber looked brand new. I used just a hose to
wash it off, no pressure washer. I have already done damage to my deck
with a pressure washer because it is very difficult not to get carried
away with stubborn spots when using a PW and weak chemicals.
If you _need_ a pressure washer to clean your deck, your cleaning
chemicals are not working and need to be stronger. I learned this the
hard way. The problem with bleach is it is not friendly to vegetation,
so if that's an issue, cover with plastic or something.I still use a
pressure washer because I can, but am very careful with it.
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com
Jerry Osage wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
>> This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
>> deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )
>>
> Bill, I suggest that before you use a power washer on a wooden deck that you
> check it out on an inconspicuous place. A high pressure water jet can do bad
> things to wood.
I have to powerspray the porous decking floor of the deck and the
many wooden slats that make up the fence around it. I have read
to start at 8-12" away on the deck. I didn't realize the wood was
so vulnerable too (but I will keep your caution in mind)! While
look at a copy of "Consumer Reports", I noted that they evaluated
the way the stain looked after 1, 2, and 3 years. Heck, I haven't
re-stained mine (ever) in 9 years, so I'm expected a big
improvement! I used inexpensive "deck cleaner" with a brush
once, but I wasn't overly-impressed with the results--it looked
cleaner when I was through, but I sensed that I may as well have
been using water. I am expecting significant before/after
results this time, so I am sort of looking forward to getting on
with it.
Bill
Clare Snyder wrote:
> Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you
> just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable
> roller as you go untill you get the radius you need.
I thought of trying that. Wood rollers okay? If I make them like
"spools" of the right width, I might even end up with concentric
rings that lay flat. I bought enough material (soft steel) to
allow me at least one mistake, and of course, I can always buy
more. I already have the Oak hoop and the calf skin. Any
difference between the suitability of soft maple versus hard
maple for the neck? I suppose, besides work-ability, the main
issue is the resistance to any twisting and turning. More than 10
years ago, when I started this project, increasingly aware of how
little I knew about woodworking, I was better-versed in the
details. That's when I switched from reading rec.banjomaking to
rec.woodworking. The former may not be very active anymore.
I can think up projects for myself faster than I can do them...
When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )
Bill