Time to organize the garage. I plan to build my own storage cabinets
using 1/2" or 3/4" plywood - I'm leaning towards 1/2". These will be
sitting on adjustable "feet" so the bottom would most likely be 3/4". I
plan on having some adjustable shelves and sliding shelves. There will
be doors on most if not all of the cabinets. I would like these to look
fairly nice, durable and easy to clean. Should I paint or finish with
urethane?
Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
--
On Mar 21, 9:54=A0am, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On 21 Mar 2008 13:40:36 GMT, "dan" <> wrote:
>
>
>
> >Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
>
> Use melamine.
Best make sure those edges are really sealed up well.... PB in a
garage???
MDO, 3/4" and paint. Assemble with stainless deck screws.... pre-
drilled.
"Dennis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Save your self some time and work by searching the cabinet shops for
> returns or overstock. Kitchen cabinets have been the main stay in my
> Florida Garage shop for 20 years. With little modification they will work
> wonders for all your storage needs.
>
I don't use cabinets any more. With all the spam postings here for Louis
Vuitton handbags and luggage, I figured I'd take advantage of the bargains.
Now, all my tools are in fine looking, stylish handbags.
Pat Barber wrote:
> I would use 3/4" plywood and pocket hole joinery.
>
> I would make flat slab doors(3/4") banded with iron
> on tape and use euro hinges.
> (1/2" will not work with euro)
>
> I would alo hang them with a french cleat.(1/2" back)
>
> With a table saw and Kreg jig, you could crank them out
> in day or two.
>
> A wipe on poly or even my newest favorite, gel varnish
> would be a good choice with stain being optional.
>
> dan wrote:
>
> > Time to organize the garage. I plan to build my own storage cabinets
> > using 1/2" or 3/4" plywood - I'm leaning towards 1/2". These will be
> > sitting on adjustable "feet" so the bottom would most likely be
> > 3/4". I plan on having some adjustable shelves and sliding shelves.
> > There will be doors on most if not all of the cabinets. I would
> > like these to look fairly nice, durable and easy to clean. Should I
> > paint or finish with urethane?
> >
> > Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
> >
I planned on the Euro style. The pocket hole joinery. Will it provide
enough "bite" into the 3/4" ply or would I need to add some "support".
I've not done pocket hole joinery so if it seems like a dumb question
...
--
Robatoy wrote:
> On Mar 21, 9:54 am, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On 21 Mar 2008 13:40:36 GMT, "dan" <> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
> >
> > Use melamine.
>
> Best make sure those edges are really sealed up well.... PB in a
> garage???
>
> MDO, 3/4" and paint. Assemble with stainless deck screws.... pre-
> drilled.
Can I use 1/2" backing if dadoed in?
--
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 13:41:52 -0700 (PDT), [email protected]
wrote:
>You've seen Bulgarian hookers in kitchens and basements?! the basement
>I can understand, but not in the KITCHEN fer cryin' out loud!
The goulash is fantastic.
On Mar 24, 9:48=A0am, Pat Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
> Yes.. pocket holes have been used for many years in
> the cabinet industries. With the Kreg jig available
> now, it makes a perfect joint for cabinets.
>
> Go here:http://www.kregtool.com/
>
> and look around.
>
> http://www.kregtool.com/information_center/index.php#eurostyleCabinets
>
> I have built "many" cabinets using
> glue and pocket holes joinery with ZERO failure.
>
> The screws are really just a replacement for clamps
> and make the assemble twice as fast.
>
> After you have done one cabinet, you will be standing
> there wondering where this has been during your woodworking.
>
I am exactly there right now, in the middle of assemblig a carcase
with my new Kreg master system. It's too freakin' easy!
Tom
On Mar 25, 11:02=A0pm, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*[email protected]> wrote:
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > "Dennis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Save your self some time and work by searching the cabinet shops for
> >> returns or overstock. Kitchen cabinets have been the main stay in my
> >> Florida Garage shop for 20 years. With little modification they will wo=
rk
> >> wonders for all your storage needs.
>
> > I don't use cabinets any more. =A0With all the spam postings here for Lo=
uis
> > Vuitton handbags and luggage, I figured I'd take advantage of the
> > bargains. Now, all my tools are in fine looking, stylish handbags.
>
> After seeing your webpage on down home roasting of a whole pig, I never to=
ok
> you for a designer handbag kind of guy.
As Edwin is a wrecker of note, the whole pig idea came about when he
attempted to make silk purses. After using the sow's ears, what to do
with the rest of the pig... what to do... BURN the thing... and that
smelled kinda good. The rest is history.
My connection with pigs is trying to make them fly.
On Mar 21, 1:06=A0pm, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 09:42:40 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >PB and moisture will end up looking like the ankles on a 60 year old
> >Bulgarian hooker.
>
> I know, I've seen it in kitchens and basements.
I knew you knew... just saw it as an opening to use the Bulgarian
hooker image.
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 13:50:16 -0400, Phisherman <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Instead of building cabinets, you can get unwanted cabinets from a
>kitchen remodel for much less than the plywood you plan to buy.
Just this week, I missed one of those opportunities.
They were all stacked up in front of the house, but before I could get
back with the truck, it had poured!
"Lee Michaels" wrote
> After seeing your webpage on down home roasting of a whole pig, I never
> took you for a designer handbag kind of guy.
As with all shop endeavors, you gotta do something with the scraps, and pig
skin is more suitable for shop use.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/8/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
Robatoy wrote:
> On Mar 21, 12:27 pm, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 08:34:08 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Best make sure those edges are really sealed up well.... PB in a
>>> garage???
>>
>> True, I should clarify that it depends on the climate and the
>> details of the garage.
>>
>> I've had PB / melamine cabinets in my attached garage for 15 years.
>
> PB and moisture will end up looking like the ankles on a 60 year old
> Bulgarian hooker.
If it gets wet, yes. From high humidity, no.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Pat Barber wrote:
>> 2. If you want your doors to stay flat, do NOT make plywood slab
>> doors; do not make frame and panel doors with plywood panels - not
>> even 1/4" ply, 1/4" masonite (especially tempered) is OK.
> Uhhhhh. You just used up the only two basic styles
> of cabinet doors.
>
> What type of door would you recommend ?
What I said...
4. I would make overlay doors in one of three ways...
a) T&G or half lap frame and hardboard panel
b) solid, glued up from whatever - even ripped up 2x4s
c) frame of 1/2 - 3/4 stock with 1/8" ply door skins or hardboard
glued to each side
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
dan wrote:
> Time to organize the garage. I plan to build my own storage cabinets
> using 1/2" or 3/4" plywood - I'm leaning towards 1/2". These will be
> sitting on adjustable "feet" so the bottom would most likely be 3/4". I
> plan on having some adjustable shelves and sliding shelves. There will
> be doors on most if not all of the cabinets. I would like these to look
> fairly nice, durable and easy to clean. Should I paint or finish with
> urethane?
>
> Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
>
Before you make the final plan you may consider movable cabinets. My
main work bench is on wheels with storage underneath. It is the same
height as my table saw so can be used as either and indeed or out feed
table. I can also arrange it into the most convenient arrangement for
either the router or table saw. (Putting parts that I am working on)
I don't remember where but I recently saw a short video of someone's
workshop garage, where the made four or five common cabinets all on
wheels and the same height. he also made other modules for drill press,
table saw, router, etc. that were all of he same working height of the
cabinets.
When not in use he would line them up along one of the garage walls.
when doing a project he would arrange the cabinets to gain the optimally
work flow.
If he were working on a car he could then move the appropriate modules
to make it convenient for working on the car.
If we ever get into a position where we are going to be in one house
long enough I plan to make my work shop similarly.
Save your self some time and work by searching the cabinet shops for returns
or overstock. Kitchen cabinets have been the main stay in my Florida Garage
shop for 20 years. With little modification they will work wonders for all
your storage needs.
Regards,
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
www.woodworkinghobby.com
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yes...makes a much stronger cabinet if you
> decide to use a french cleat.
>
> dan wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Can I use 1/2" backing if dadoed in?
>>
In article <[email protected]>, "dan" <> says...
> Robatoy wrote:
>=20
> > On Mar 21, 9:54=A0am, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > On 21 Mar 2008 13:40:36 GMT, "dan" <> wrote:
> > >=20
> > >=20
> > >=20
> > > > Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
> > >=20
> > > Use melamine.
> >=20
> > Best make sure those edges are really sealed up well.... PB in a
> > garage???
> >=20
> > MDO, 3/4" and paint. Assemble with stainless deck screws.... pre-
> > drilled.
>=20
> Can I use 1/2" backing if dadoed in?
For the backing I'd even go 1/4.
S.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:e93f04b5-d46f-4d89-9bcf-70ea854f2c8f@d62g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
<snip>
> I've had PB / melamine cabinets in my attached garage for 15 years.
PB and moisture will end up looking like the ankles on a 60 year old
Bulgarian hooker
First hand knowledge???
BTW thanks for the mental image; ruined my lunch!
Tom
<dan> wrote in message
> Time to organize the garage. I plan to build my own storage cabinets
> using 1/2" or 3/4" plywood - I'm leaning towards 1/2".
3/4" for your casework ... you be will sorry otherwise, particularly when it
comes to fastening all the various hardware.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/8/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
I would use 3/4" plywood and pocket hole joinery.
I would make flat slab doors(3/4") banded with iron
on tape and use euro hinges.
(1/2" will not work with euro)
I would alo hang them with a french cleat.(1/2" back)
With a table saw and Kreg jig, you could crank them out
in day or two.
A wipe on poly or even my newest favorite, gel varnish
would be a good choice with stain being optional.
dan wrote:
> Time to organize the garage. I plan to build my own storage cabinets
> using 1/2" or 3/4" plywood - I'm leaning towards 1/2". These will be
> sitting on adjustable "feet" so the bottom would most likely be 3/4". I
> plan on having some adjustable shelves and sliding shelves. There will
> be doors on most if not all of the cabinets. I would like these to look
> fairly nice, durable and easy to clean. Should I paint or finish with
> urethane?
>
> Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
>
On Mar 27, 8:55=A0am, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" wrote
>
> > My connection with pigs is trying to make them fly.
>
> http://sivers.org/images/diving_pig.jpg
>
I see your pig and raise you Elvis in an elegant swine dive into Swine
Lake.
http://www.nauert.com/pictures/ranelvis.jpg
(Randy is an old connection from the AMUG hay days. That picture is
NOT shopped.)
On Mar 21, 12:06=A0pm, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 09:42:40 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >PB and moisture will end up looking like the ankles on a 60 year old
> >Bulgarian hooker.
>
> I know, I've seen it in kitchens and basements.
You've seen Bulgarian hookers in kitchens and basements?! the basement
I can understand, but not in the KITCHEN fer cryin' out loud!
On 21 Mar 2008 13:40:36 GMT, "dan" <> wrote:
>Time to organize the garage. I plan to build my own storage cabinets
>using 1/2" or 3/4" plywood - I'm leaning towards 1/2". These will be
>sitting on adjustable "feet" so the bottom would most likely be 3/4". I
>plan on having some adjustable shelves and sliding shelves. There will
>be doors on most if not all of the cabinets. I would like these to look
>fairly nice, durable and easy to clean. Should I paint or finish with
>urethane?
>
>Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
Instead of building cabinets, you can get unwanted cabinets from a
kitchen remodel for much less than the plywood you plan to buy. If
you recycle the cabinets they are already finished, otherwise consider
pre-finished 3/4" ply.
On Mar 21, 12:27=A0pm, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 08:34:08 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Best make sure those edges are really sealed up well.... PB in a
> >garage???
>
> True, I should clarify that it depends on the climate and the details
> of the garage.
>
> I've had PB / melamine cabinets in my attached garage for 15 years.
PB and moisture will end up looking like the ankles on a 60 year old
Bulgarian hooker.
On Mar 21, 6:51=A0pm, "dan" <> wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> > On Mar 21, 9:54=A0am, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > On 21 Mar 2008 13:40:36 GMT, "dan" <> wrote:
>
> > > > Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
>
> > > Use melamine.
>
> > Best make sure those edges are really sealed up well.... PB in a
> > garage???
>
> > MDO, 3/4" and paint. Assemble with stainless deck screws.... pre-
> > drilled.
>
> Can I use 1/2" backing if dadoed in?
>
> --
1/4" would be okay as samson said. A rabbet will do as well.
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 08:34:08 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Best make sure those edges are really sealed up well.... PB in a
>garage???
>
True, I should clarify that it depends on the climate and the details
of the garage.
I've had PB / melamine cabinets in my attached garage for 15 years.
Robatoy wrote:
>As Edwin is a wrecker of note, the whole pig idea came about when he
attempted to make silk purses. After using the sow's ears, what to do
with the rest of the pig... what to do... BURN the thing... and that
smelled kinda good. The rest is history.
Is that the same pig that had an artifical back leg?
Pig was so good the didn't want to eat him all at once.
Lew
dan wrote:
> Time to organize the garage. I plan to build my own storage cabinets
> using 1/2" or 3/4" plywood - I'm leaning towards 1/2". These will be
> sitting on adjustable "feet" so the bottom would most likely be
> 3/4". I plan on having some adjustable shelves and sliding shelves.
> There will be doors on most if not all of the cabinets. I would
> like these to look fairly nice, durable and easy to clean. Should I
> paint or finish with urethane?
>
> Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
1. If you want them to look nice, do NOT use fir/pine plywood. The
grain will telegraph through anything. Birch ply would not telegraph.
In any case, use 3/4.
2. If you want your doors to stay flat, do NOT make plywood slab
doors; do not make frame and panel doors with plywood panels - not
even 1/4" ply, 1/4" masonite (especially tempered) is OK.
_____________
If it were me, I would...
1. Make the boxes of 3/4 melmine board. Bottoms with a 3/8 x 3/8
tongue at the top (of the edge) glued into a dado on the sides. Tops
the same with the tongue glued into a rabbet at the top of the sides.
2. I would put a 3/4 x 2-3" nailing board under the back edge of the
top. I usually screw it on through the top but if the top of the
cabinet is visible I would rout off just the melamine and glue it on.
If the wall of the garage where the cabinet will be looks decent I
would do nothing else; if not, I would rabbet the back edge of the
cabinet all around so I could glue/screw on a piece of 1/8" white tile
board.
3. I would make a plinth of 2x4 pressure treated lumber (smaller than
the cabinet so as to create a toe kick), set the cabinet on it, shim
as necessary, screw through the nailing board into garage wall, screw
through cabinet bottom into 2x4 plinth. The plinth itself should be
fastened to garage floor.
4. I would make overlay doors in one of three ways...
a) T&G or half lap frame and hardboard panel
b) solid glued up from whatever - even ripped up 2x4s
c) frame of 1/2 - 3/4 stock with 1/8" ply door skins or hardboard
glued to each side
5. Most base cabinets are around 24" deep. If you have room, that's
the depth I would make them. However, cabinets that deep are a
nuisance in as much as it is hard to get to stuff in the back;
consequently, I usually make a frame with shelves that I attach to the
back of the door. I have made them in depths varying from 4" - 12".
Naturally, the main cabinet shelves have to have a width narrow enough
to accomodate the door shelves. The doors (and hinges) also have to
be strong enough and allow for their attachment...b & c above are
suitable, "a" may be too if the frames are wide enough and the weight
to be hung on them isn't a lot.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Yes.. pocket holes have been used for many years in
the cabinet industries. With the Kreg jig available
now, it makes a perfect joint for cabinets.
Go here: http://www.kregtool.com/
and look around.
http://www.kregtool.com/information_center/index.php#eurostyleCabinets
I have built "many" cabinets using
glue and pocket holes joinery with ZERO failure.
The screws are really just a replacement for clamps
and make the assemble twice as fast.
After you have done one cabinet, you will be standing
there wondering where this has been during your woodworking.
dan wrote:
>
> I planned on the Euro style. The pocket hole joinery. Will it provide
> enough "bite" into the 3/4" ply or would I need to add some "support".
> I've not done pocket hole joinery so if it seems like a dumb question
> ...
>
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 09:42:40 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>PB and moisture will end up looking like the ankles on a 60 year old
>Bulgarian hooker.
I know, I've seen it in kitchens and basements.
Uhhhhh. You just used up the only two basic styles
of cabinet doors.
What type of door would you recommend ?
dadiOH wrote:
> 1. If you want them to look nice, do NOT use fir/pine plywood. The
> grain will telegraph through anything. Birch ply would not telegraph.
> In any case, use 3/4.
>
> 2. If you want your doors to stay flat, do NOT make plywood slab
> doors; do not make frame and panel doors with plywood panels - not
> even 1/4" ply, 1/4" masonite (especially tempered) is OK.
>
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 10:41:12 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mar 21, 1:06 pm, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 09:42:40 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >PB and moisture will end up looking like the ankles on a 60 year old
>> >Bulgarian hooker.
>>
>> I know, I've seen it in kitchens and basements.
>
>I knew you knew... just saw it as an opening to use the Bulgarian
>hooker image.
I do appreciate that image.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dennis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Save your self some time and work by searching the cabinet shops for
>> returns or overstock. Kitchen cabinets have been the main stay in my
>> Florida Garage shop for 20 years. With little modification they will work
>> wonders for all your storage needs.
>>
>
> I don't use cabinets any more. With all the spam postings here for Louis
> Vuitton handbags and luggage, I figured I'd take advantage of the
> bargains. Now, all my tools are in fine looking, stylish handbags.
>
After seeing your webpage on down home roasting of a whole pig, I never took
you for a designer handbag kind of guy.