I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much budget
constrained.
For 10+ years I've been running with:
Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth
Advanced Anti-Kickback Design
and haven't done too badly.
Rockler currently has:
Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943
How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make? Speculation
is encouraged.
Thx,
Will
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:28:39 -0400, Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 14:51:11 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>Now if you have 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
>
>We should all be so lucky to be able to afford two table saws *and*
>have a large enough shop to be able to use them.
We just moved into a house with a 2000 ft^2 basement but there are a *lot* of
toys I want to buy before even thinking about another table saw. Changing
blades isn't all that tough. ;-)
On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote:
> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will =
find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better wit=
h a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 to=
oth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the vene=
ered plywood.
To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one r=
ip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip =
blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change bl=
ades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry wi=
th a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own=
.
On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wro=
te:
> I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much bud=
get constrained. For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carbide Fi=
nishing 40 Tooth Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too badly. =
Rockler currently has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #4=
7943 How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make? Specula=
tion is encouraged. Thx, Will
You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much b=
etter with a rip blade. Any serious WWkr with a TS should at least have a r=
ip and cross cut blade. I use Freud blades quite a bit. I think maybe a mor=
e expensive version, that sounds like a heck of a deal.
For A long time I used thin kerf but have gravitated towards full kerf and =
find I get less chatter on rips so less sanding of edges.
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 11:13:29 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>He said some are thinner kerf versions, some are smaller tooth versions
>(less sharpening), but many are the exact same blade as their marquee
>lines except with different printing and no "slippery red"paint job.
>
>If the ones in this pack are the latter, it is an exceptional deal. If
>they are thinner kerf, even "Diablo" blades, they are still pretty good
>for the price. The plate thickness is the real issue on those blade,
>because the teeth with be great. But if they have a thin plate, they
>will wobble too much and have a less that perfect cut.
Do you know about what plate thickness the "good" blades are?
I can pack a caliper, maybe make an actual measurement at Rockler.
Thx,
Will
"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."
Wilfred Xavier Pickles <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much
> budget constrained.
>
> For 10+ years I've been running with:
>
> Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth
> Advanced Anti-Kickback Design
>
> and haven't done too badly.
>
> Rockler currently has:
> Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943
>
> How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make?
> Speculation is encouraged.
>
> Thx,
> Will
>
If you haven't had your blade sharpened, it'll make a huge difference.
If you've had it sharpened every now and again, maybe not so much.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
>
> I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very
> much budget
> constrained.
>
> For 10+ years I've been running with:
>
> Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth
> Advanced Anti-Kickback Design
>
> and haven't done too badly.
>
> Rockler currently has:
> Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943
>
> How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make?
> Speculation
> is encouraged.
------------------------------------------------------------
If funds are tight, consider getting existing blade sharpened.
$20 a blade doesn't get you much of a blade, IMHO.
Lew
On 10/11/2012 09:41 PM, Mike M wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 13:53:11 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Thursday, October 11, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
>>> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you have
>> 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
>>
>> IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer.
>>
>> I have one I throw on when making plywood boxes, etc. for around the shop or sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc.
>
> Out of curiousity have you ever tried a WWII Blade. Just curious if
> you've felt you were doing better with the other blades.
>
> Mike M
>
I have a WW and a WWII for the RAS and the TS. I love 'em both, but I
have found that a good rip blade on the TS helps immensely when ripping
redwood. It is much faster and doesn't build up resin nearly as fast as
the WWII.
I rip a load of 8' 2x6 redwood and plough out a 1" x 7/8" centered
groove (with a dado stack) on 8' 2.5" wide lengths every month to supply
hand railings for metal RV deck/stairs for a RV accessory manufacturer.
I route a 1/2" radius on all four edges. He cuts to length and finishes
as orders come in.
Pays green fees...
http://www.hofmannccr.com/rvproducts/decks.htm
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 9:26:03 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
> On 10/11/2012 3:53 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Thursday, October 1=
1, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote: >> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProd=
ucts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale=
wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >=
You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much b=
etter with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always use=
d a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on=
the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cros=
s cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they=
are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less=
than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I =
doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But=
as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a=
combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting =
with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you hav e 2 table saw=
, that might change considerations. > > IMNSHO combo blades are only appror=
iate for basic cabinet work or other similar (good enough is OK) jobs and n=
ot the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only b=
ecause the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up=
the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer. If you believe that a "good"=
combo blade is only appropriate for basic cabinet work something was/is no=
t right. I no longer own a jointer as I never used the one I had and I neve=
r over size a cut. I get what might be considered perfect cuts 98% of the t=
ime and sanding is most often not necessary other than to prep the cut surf=
ace to be consistent with the face surface for a consistent application of =
a stain or finish. Any tooth marks are pretty much non existent. I sell my =
work too and it is pretty intricate. I don't tolerate sub par results from =
my equipment and don't use another machine to clean up what another has not=
left done properly.
I don't dispute your claim. Sounds like you have a well tuned instrument (s=
aw) and good technique.
On 10/11/2012 12:34 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
>> I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much budget constrained. For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too badly. Rockler currently has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943 How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make? Speculation is encouraged. Thx, Will
>
> You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Any serious WWkr with a TS should at least have a rip and cross cut blade. I use Freud blades quite a bit. I think maybe a more expensive version, that sounds like a heck of a deal.
+1
I use a Forrest WWII for all critical projects crosscuts (combination
blade, but still cuts sterling crosscuts), and a Freud Glue-Line-Rip for
all critical project rips to dimension after jointing.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 9:41:09 PM UTC-7, Mike M wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 13:53:11 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" <bwx200@ya=
hoo.com> wrote: >On Thursday, October 11, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrot=
e: >> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, Octo=
ber 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34=
:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting =
with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went t=
he ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did =
fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each h=
is own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarel=
y use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do=
cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and =
just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cros=
s cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The t=
rick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blad=
e. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross =
cut blade. Now if you have >2 table saw, that might change considerations. =
> >IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other =
similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am =
usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually overs=
ize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in th=
e planer. > >I have one I throw on when making plywood boxes, etc. for arou=
nd the shop or sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc. Out o=
f curiousity have you ever tried a WWII Blade. Just curious if you've felt =
you were doing better with the other blades. Mike M
Yes I have used Forests. Mostly loved them. I get pretty much the same resu=
lts from full kerf Freuds but I do recall some fricking glass like smooth c=
ross cuts with a Woodworker cross cut (maybe 60 tooth) blade. I have never =
done side-by-side. I keep my blades sharp. Probably feels like Forests hold=
an edge longer but I am usually buying a few blades at a time and like to =
save a few bucks.
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 23:54:40 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 10/11/2012 11:41 PM, Mike M wrote:
>> On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 13:53:11 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On Thursday, October 11, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you ha
>ve
>>> 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
>>>
>>> IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer.
>>>
>>> I have one I throw on when making plywood boxes, etc. for around the shop or sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc.
>>
>> Out of curiousity have you ever tried a WWII Blade. Just curious if
>> you've felt you were doing better with the other blades.
>>
>> Mike M
>>
>
>
>IIRC he mentioned using a Forrest blade and IIRC Forrest does not make a
>rip blade. So my "guess" is that he has used a Forrest General cut
>blade, maybe not. If he was not happy with the results of a WWII
>"something" was not right.
I found Deb's recent results interesting. (No defined increase in
quality of cuts over a cheaper blade, at least initially. But we all
know that cheaper blades don't last as long.)
--
Energy and persistence alter all things.
--Benjamin Franklin
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:45:51 -0400, "[email protected]"
>We just moved into a house with a 2000 ft^2 basement but there are a *lot* of
>toys I want to buy before even thinking about another table saw. Changing
>blades isn't all that tough. ;-)
Given (reasonable) aspirations for a workshop, I'd want a shop big
enough to house several machines the size of a decent Felder table
saw. It would have to be capable of handing entire 8' sheets of ply
and completely outfitted with a power feeder.
Punch a couple of numbers into a computer screen and then watch it
happen.
This one would do. :)
http://www.format-4.ca/products_features.php?parent=9e5e5cc98dc03df70393&xat_code=dfe29b2ff457bc0b6430®ion=ca-us
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>
> You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be
> much better with a rip blade. Any serious WWkr with a TS should at
> least have a rip and cross cut blade.
>
I find that a good rip blade is all that is necessary. Use it for the rips
and the cutting torches for the cross cuts. I'd use the oxy/acetalene for
rips too, but it's too hard to hold the torch at the exact right angle to
get a nice clean edge on a long run...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 7:18:28 AM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
> On 10/11/2012 12:34 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October=
10, 2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote: >> I'm just a hob=
byist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much budget constrained.=
For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth=
Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too badly. Rockler currentl=
y has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943 How much of=
an improvement (if any) might the new blades make? Speculation is encourag=
ed. Thx, Will > > You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain directi=
on) will be much better with a rip blade. Any serious WWkr with a TS should=
at least have a rip and cross cut blade. I use Freud blades quite a bit. I=
think maybe a more expensive version, that sounds like a heck of a deal. +=
1 I use a Forrest WWII for all critical projects crosscuts (combination bla=
de, but still cuts sterling crosscuts), and a Freud Glue-Line-Rip for all c=
ritical project rips to dimension after jointing. -- www.eWoodShop.com Last=
update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
When those glue line rips first came out I did seem to have some success. W=
ith my saw stop I have that fence dialed in with just a few thou lean out o=
n and I still get teeth marks on my rips with that blade or any thin kerf a=
ctually. I checked for run out and there is esentially none. I actually ret=
urned a glue line saying it was flawed and was just going to get my money b=
ack but the sad looking Woodcraft owner got me to agree to swap for another=
one. I went back the next day and bought a full kerf ripper and have glass=
like rips ever since. I guess I am just a softee. Still have the glue line=
but it has worked its way to the back of the stack on the blade nail next =
to the saw.
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October =
10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 =
-0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with=
te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the r=
ipping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine=
for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his o=
wn I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely us=
e a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut=
about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just=
kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cu=
t very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick=
to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I=
would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut =
blade. Now if you have 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other sim=
ilar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usu=
ally building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize=
their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the p=
laner.=20
I have one I throw on when making plywood boxes, etc. for around the shop o=
r sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc.
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 7:18:28 AM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
> On 10/11/2012 12:34 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October
> 10, 2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote: >> I'm just a
> hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much budget
> constrained. For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carbide
> Finishing 40 Tooth Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too
> badly. Rockler currently has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut
> ... $40 #47943 How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades
> make? Speculation is encouraged. Thx, Will > > You will find that ripping
> (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade.
> Any serious WWkr with a TS should at least have a rip and cross cut blade.
> I use Freud blades quite a bit. I think maybe a more expensive version,
> that sounds like a heck of a deal. +1 I use a Forrest WWII for all
> critical projects crosscuts (combination blade, but still cuts sterling
> crosscuts), and a Freud Glue-Line-Rip for all critical project rips to
> dimension after jointing. -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
When those glue line rips first came out I did seem to have some success.
With my saw stop I have that fence dialed in with just a few thou lean out
on and I still get teeth marks on my rips with that blade or any thin kerf
actually. I checked for run out and there is esentially none. I actually
returned a glue line saying it was flawed and was just going to get my money
back but the sad looking Woodcraft owner got me to agree to swap for another
one. I went back the next day and bought a full kerf ripper and have glass
like rips ever since. I guess I am just a softee. Still have the glue line
but it has worked its way to the back of the stack on the blade nail next to
the saw.
===================================================================================================================================
I have been using a full kerf glue line rip for some time. Works great. They
do make that blade in two thicknesses.
On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote:
>> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood.
>
> To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own.
>
The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general
purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor
ripping with a cross cut blade.
Now if you have 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
On 10/12/2012 11:28 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 22:05:21 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>
>> Yes I have used Forests. Mostly loved them. I get pretty much the same
>> results from full kerf Freuds but I do recall some fricking glass like
>> smooth cross cuts with a Woodworker cross cut (maybe 60 tooth) blade.
>
> I've never owned a Forrest blade but a year or two back I bought Freud's
> then new "Fusion" blade. I don't see how any other blade could cut any
> smoother. Can't yet testify to longevity - as a hobby woodworker it
> takes me a while to dull a blade.
I have heard similar comments about HF blades. The Forrest is good for
tens of thousands of cuts with the same quality of cut.
>
> My only quibble is that it's ATB and not ATBR.
>
I had 2 WWII blades, got another about 2 years ago and had one of the
older ones ground to cut flat bottom groves. Perhaps you could have it
reground.
On 10/11/2012 2:29 PM, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 21:51:29 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> If you keep this up one day you will buy a Forrest. With it be sooner
>> or later?
>
> Much later. Would first require a new and better TS. And I'm now too
> old/decrepit to lug/setup. So, much, Much, MUCH later. :-)
>
> Will
>
Seriously I put a new Forrest "REGULAR KERF 40 tooth WWII on my saw
just under 2 years ago, the job paid for it. Since I have mounted that
blade I have built over 100 drawers, 40+ MDF kitchen door and drawer
blanks, several components to that kitchen re-do, A Murphy bed with
matching tower cabinets on both sides, a queen side bed with drawers
underneath, a quilters cutting table, an 8'x8' wall pantry, a corner
curio cabinet, three double cabinet book cases, an additional full wall
of book cases, and a bedroom TV chest with drawers and 7 or 8 picture
frames. The blade is still cutting quite well without having been
sharpened yet.
I know you feel you need a better saw for this blade but you really do
not. Prior to buying a cabinet saw 13 or so years ago I used a good
quality Systematic regular kerf blade on my 1hp Craftsman TS. It cut
better than any think kerf blade I had used.
A Forrest could be the last blade you ever buy, maybe. ;~) I keep 2
Forrest blades on hand. When one goes to Forrest for resharpening I
mount the other for the next 3~4 years of use. You will save money on
the long run and never be able to blame the blade for poor results.
Sounds like a good deal, provided they have the tooth geometry for the
material you plan to work with. You can always find out by visiting their
web site. They have a host of information to guide you to the right blade
for the job. I love Freud blades. I've never had one that didn't do exactly
what it was designed for, and provide better than expected results.
On 10/11/2012 1:23 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Thursday, October 11, 2012 7:18:28 AM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
>> On 10/11/2012 12:34 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote: >> I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much budget constrained. For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too badly. Rockler currently has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943 How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make? Speculation is encouraged. Thx, Will > > You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Any serious WWkr with a TS should at least have a rip and cross cut blade. I use Freud blades quite a bit. I think maybe a more expensive version, that sounds like a heck of a deal. +1 I use a Forrest WWII for all critical projects crosscuts (combination blade, but still cuts sterling crosscuts), and a Freud Glue-Line-Rip for all critical project rips
to dimension after jointing. -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
>
> When those glue line rips first came out I did seem to have some success. With my saw stop I have that fence dialed in with just a few thou lean out on and I still get teeth marks on my rips with that blade or any thin kerf actually. I checked for run out and there is esentially none. I actually returned a glue line saying it was flawed and was just going to get my money back but the sad looking Woodcraft owner got me to agree to swap for another one. I went back the next day and bought a full kerf ripper and have glass like rips ever since. I guess I am just a softee. Still have the glue line but it has worked its way to the back of the stack on the blade nail next to the saw.
>
The problem with the thin kerf is that they may measure out fine, they
are not spinning, but once spinning they may no longer run true.
Additionally unless you are working with perfect lumber that is equal in
hardness all the way through, is there such a thing, the thin kerf
blades will flex to some degree often to a great degree when they go to
the hard and soft spots.
in 1539868 20121011 121315 "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:
>SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>
>>
>> You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be
>> much better with a rip blade. Any serious WWkr with a TS should at
>> least have a rip and cross cut blade.
>>
>
>I find that a good rip blade is all that is necessary. Use it for the rips
>and the cutting torches for the cross cuts. I'd use the oxy/acetalene for
>rips too, but it's too hard to hold the torch at the exact right angle to
>get a nice clean edge on a long run...
Angle grinder.
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 7:01:27 PM UTC-7, CW wrote:
> "SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message news:822ff3b3-9b3a-4caa-a4d7-83bfa9=
[email protected]... On Thursday, October 11, 2012 7:18:28 AM UTC-7, =
Swingman wrote: > On 10/11/2012 12:34 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On We=
dnesday, October > 10, 2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:=
>> I'm just a > hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much=
budget > constrained. For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carb=
ide > Finishing 40 Tooth Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too=
> badly. Rockler currently has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut =
> ... $40 #47943 How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades >=
make? Speculation is encouraged. Thx, Will > > You will find that ripping =
> (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. >=
Any serious WWkr with a TS should at least have a rip and cross cut blade.=
> I use Freud blades quite a bit. I think maybe a more expensive version, =
> that sounds like a heck of a deal. +1 I use a Forrest WWII for all > crit=
ical projects crosscuts (combination blade, but still cuts sterling > cross=
cuts), and a Freud Glue-Line-Rip for all critical project rips to > dimensi=
on after jointing. -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 > KarlCaillo=
uet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop When those glue line rips firs=
t came out I did seem to have some success. With my saw stop I have that fe=
nce dialed in with just a few thou lean out on and I still get teeth marks =
on my rips with that blade or any thin kerf actually. I checked for run out=
and there is esentially none. I actually returned a glue line saying it wa=
s flawed and was just going to get my money back but the sad looking Woodcr=
aft owner got me to agree to swap for another one. I went back the next day=
and bought a full kerf ripper and have glass like rips ever since. I guess=
I am just a softee. Still have the glue line but it has worked its way to =
the back of the stack on the blade nail next to the saw. =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
I have been using a full kerf glue line rip for some time. Works great. Th=
ey do make that blade in two thicknesses.
I should try that. I usually pick up blades at local Woodcraft. I like to s=
upport the guy but his inventory is pretty weak. Usually never has the blad=
es I want. Offers to order them but why bother. I just go home and order it=
myself online if it is something O can wait for. Never saw the full kerf g=
lue line there.
On 10/11/2012 1:24 AM, Dave wrote:
> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
>> You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade.
>
> Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth
> combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the
> veneered plywood.
>
Kinda agree, using a cabinet saw I used a decent brand rip blade long
enough to dull it and never saw/realized the point of switching blades
from a WWII.
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 13:53:11 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thursday, October 11, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
>> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you have
>2 table saw, that might change considerations.
>
>IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer.
>
>I have one I throw on when making plywood boxes, etc. for around the shop or sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc.
Out of curiousity have you ever tried a WWII Blade. Just curious if
you've felt you were doing better with the other blades.
Mike M
Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
> I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much
> budget constrained.
>
> For 10+ years I've been running with:
>
> Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth
> Advanced Anti-Kickback Design
>
> and haven't done too badly.
>
> Rockler currently has:
> Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943
>
> How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make?
> Speculation is encouraged.
Speculation would be "little to none" with the info you gave. If you had
said how many teeth and what grind, it would have helped (I looked, couldn't
find the special at Rockler).
If the crosscut blade has more teeth than your current one, it will probably
make a smoother crosscut.
If the rip blade has 24 or 30 flat top teeth (not ATB or TCG) it will
probably rip better.
Of course, you either have to change blades for different cuts or accept
less than optimal results. I like to use a rip blade on my table saw and a
crosscut blade on the RAS. I do crosscuts on the TS too when I don't
want/need the slightly improved cross cut results from the RAS.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 10/11/12 12:00 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very
>> much budget
>> constrained.
>>
>> For 10+ years I've been running with:
>>
>> Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth
>> Advanced Anti-Kickback Design
>>
>> and haven't done too badly.
>>
>> Rockler currently has:
>> Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943
>>
>> How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make?
>> Speculation
>> is encouraged.
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> If funds are tight, consider getting existing blade sharpened.
>
> $20 a blade doesn't get you much of a blade, IMHO.
>
> Lew
>
They are marked down quite a bit... a whole lot of a bit. :-)
I couldn't see the model numbers in that Rockler ad, nor if they were
thin kerf/thin plate blade. But the rip blade looks like it might be
their glue line rip blade without the fancy paint job. Same with the
cross cut blade. Both of those would be very good blade, if the same as
their high end.
When I called Freud a while back when researching blades, one of their
tech guys told me that they often have these large runs of "plain"
blades to sell in bulk for many different reasons. Some are for
industrial use, some are for huge retailers so they can have a unique
sku number, and other reasons.
He said some are thinner kerf versions, some are smaller tooth versions
(less sharpening), but many are the exact same blade as their marquee
lines except with different printing and no "slippery red"paint job.
If the ones in this pack are the latter, it is an exceptional deal. If
they are thinner kerf, even "Diablo" blades, they are still pretty good
for the price. The plate thickness is the real issue on those blade,
because the teeth with be great. But if they have a thin plate, they
will wobble too much and have a less that perfect cut.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/11/12 12:49 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:
>
> On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 11:13:29 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> He said some are thinner kerf versions, some are smaller tooth versions
>> (less sharpening), but many are the exact same blade as their marquee
>> lines except with different printing and no "slippery red"paint job.
>>
>> If the ones in this pack are the latter, it is an exceptional deal. If
>> they are thinner kerf, even "Diablo" blades, they are still pretty good
>> for the price. The plate thickness is the real issue on those blade,
>> because the teeth with be great. But if they have a thin plate, they
>> will wobble too much and have a less that perfect cut.
>
> Do you know about what plate thickness the "good" blades are?
> I can pack a caliper, maybe make an actual measurement at Rockler.
>
> Thx,
> Will
>
> "Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."
>
You won't need a caliper. :-)
Just go look at the expensive full kerf blades and take note of how
thick their plates are. There are about 3 thicknesses in general... much
thinner than the kerf, by about 1/2; a bit thinner than kerf; and darn
near the same thickness as kerf.
The latter two will be much heavier than the thinner plate blades. They
will have no flex if you try to bend them. They will be much heavier.
They will have a high, long, bell-like tone if you hold them by the hole
and strike them with your knuckle.
The thinner plate blade will have a bit of flex when you try to bend it.
It will feel much lighter than you think it should. When struck with the
knuckle, the sound will be a lower pitched and shorter tone.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/12/12 8:07 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 10/11/2012 1:23 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>> When those glue line rips first came out I did seem to have some
>> success. With my saw stop I have that fence dialed in with just a few
>> thou lean out on and I still get teeth marks on my rips with that
>> blade or any thin kerf actually.
>
> Although I do own one special purpose thin kerf, as a general rule I
> don't use thin kerf blades ... the Freud blade I was referring to is
> 1/8" kerf, Glue-Line-Rip.
>
I have the same blade, the LM74R010. They do make a thin kerf version,
LM75R010, but with the thinner plate, I would not want to use it and I
really doubt it would yield the same results no matter how perfect the
table saw was set up.
I have noticed that you can still get burn marks on the fence side of
the cut with the full kerf blade if you stall the feed rate anywhere in
the cut. I think that's probably just the nature of the beast, however.
I try to make sure I can get an uninterrupted feed for anything on which
I need a "finished" surface.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 22:05:21 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Yes I have used Forests. Mostly loved them. I get pretty much the same
> results from full kerf Freuds but I do recall some fricking glass like
> smooth cross cuts with a Woodworker cross cut (maybe 60 tooth) blade.
I've never owned a Forrest blade but a year or two back I bought Freud's
then new "Fusion" blade. I don't see how any other blade could cut any
smoother. Can't yet testify to longevity - as a hobby woodworker it
takes me a while to dull a blade.
My only quibble is that it's ATB and not ATBR.
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
On 10/12/2012 12:42 AM, Dave wrote:
> Given (reasonable) aspirations for a workshop, I'd want a shop big
> enough to house several machines the size of a decent Felder table
> saw. It would have to be capable of handing entire 8' sheets of ply
> and completely outfitted with a power feeder.
>
> Punch a couple of numbers into a computer screen and then watch it
> happen.
>
> This one would do. :)
> http://www.format-4.ca/products_features.php?parent=9e5e5cc98dc03df70393&xat_code=dfe29b2ff457bc0b6430®ion=ca-us
>
>
While attending the Atlanta IWF a few years back, I got to feel one of
those saws. The slider moves with one finger and very little pressure.
I also got to touch a big ass Felder(similar saw)
http://www.felderusa.com/us-us/products/table-saws.html
and of course these big boys:
http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/tablesaws/4saw.htm
On 10/13/2012 8:02 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Sounds like a good deal, provided they have the tooth geometry for the
> material you plan to work with. You can always find out by visiting their
> web site. They have a host of information to guide you to the right blade
> for the job. I love Freud blades. I've never had one that didn't do exactly
> what it was designed for, and provide better than expected results.
I have a Freud 10" dado set I hate. Partly because it is 10" and not 7"
like my old set. It's way harder to set up than my old set, and doesn't
cut any better. Only thing I like about it is it's carbide.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 10/13/2012 12:57 PM, Mike M wrote:
> On Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:04:16 -0400, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 10/13/2012 8:02 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> Sounds like a good deal, provided they have the tooth geometry for the
>>> material you plan to work with. You can always find out by visiting their
>>> web site. They have a host of information to guide you to the right blade
>>> for the job. I love Freud blades. I've never had one that didn't do exactly
>>> what it was designed for, and provide better than expected results.
>>
>> I have a Freud 10" dado set I hate. Partly because it is 10" and not 7"
>> like my old set. It's way harder to set up than my old set, and doesn't
>> cut any better. Only thing I like about it is it's carbide.
>
> I splurged and got there adjustable set, so far very happy with it.
I've been using the dial-a-width 8" Freud set for a few years, and
literally thousands of linear feet of dadoes, and could not be happier
with the set. My beloved Amana dado stack and shims were put away and
have not seen the light of day since.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On Fri, 12 Oct 2012 08:38:24 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>I think I would opt for going totally CNC if room were not a factor, I
>think less waste might be a plus factor.
I (think) I know what CNC can do, but my main woodworking desire is
the easiest way to slice up veneered plywood. Cabinet making is my
main focus with woodworking.
CNC is a whole other ball game.
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 13:42:36 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>You won't need a caliper. :-)
>Just go look at the expensive full kerf blades and take note of how
>thick their plates are. There are about 3 thicknesses in general... much
>thinner than the kerf, by about 1/2; a bit thinner than kerf; and darn
>near the same thickness as kerf.
>
>The latter two will be much heavier than the thinner plate blades. They
>will have no flex if you try to bend them. They will be much heavier.
>They will have a high, long, bell-like tone if you hold them by the hole
>and strike them with your knuckle.
>
>The thinner plate blade will have a bit of flex when you try to bend it.
>It will feel much lighter than you think it should. When struck with the
>knuckle, the sound will be a lower pitched and shorter tone.
I'll check 'em out.
Many Thanks
"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 14:47:54 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 10/11/2012 2:29 PM, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
>> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 21:51:29 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> If you keep this up one day you will buy a Forrest. With it be sooner
>>> or later?
>>
>> Much later. Would first require a new and better TS. And I'm now too
>> old/decrepit to lug/setup. So, much, Much, MUCH later. :-)
>>
>> Will
>>
>
>Seriously I put a new Forrest "REGULAR KERF 40 tooth WWII on my saw
>just under 2 years ago, the job paid for it. Since I have mounted that
>blade I have built over 100 drawers, 40+ MDF kitchen door and drawer
>blanks, several components to that kitchen re-do, A Murphy bed with
>matching tower cabinets on both sides, a queen side bed with drawers
>underneath, a quilters cutting table, an 8'x8' wall pantry, a corner
>curio cabinet, three double cabinet book cases, an additional full wall
>of book cases, and a bedroom TV chest with drawers and 7 or 8 picture
>frames. The blade is still cutting quite well without having been
>sharpened yet.
WHAT? You mean that one blade did your entire Bridge of Sighs Bedroom
Suite without being sharpened? ;) That's a good blade.
>I know you feel you need a better saw for this blade but you really do
>not. Prior to buying a cabinet saw 13 or so years ago I used a good
>quality Systematic regular kerf blade on my 1hp Craftsman TS. It cut
>better than any think kerf blade I had used.
I finally upgraded from HF to a Freud blade for my circ saw and it
really is an improvement. Well, was, until the blade height
adjustment loosened and it started cutting the blacktop. She cuts a
mite slower nowadays. I'll replace it some day soon.
--
Energy and persistence alter all things.
--Benjamin Franklin
On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
>You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade.
Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth
combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the
veneered plywood.
On 10/10/2012 6:54 PM, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
>
> I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much budget
> constrained.
>
> For 10+ years I've been running with:
>
> Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth
> Advanced Anti-Kickback Design
>
> and haven't done too badly.
>
> Rockler currently has:
> Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943
>
> How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make? Speculation
> is encouraged.
>
> Thx,
> Will
>
If you keep this up one day you will buy a Forrest. With it be sooner
or later?
On 10/11/2012 3:53 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Thursday, October 11, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
>> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you hav
e 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
>
> IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer.
If you believe that a "good" combo blade is only appropriate for basic
cabinet work something was/is not right. I no longer own a jointer as I
never used the one I had and I never over size a cut. I get what might
be considered perfect cuts 98% of the time and sanding is most often not
necessary other than to prep the cut surface to be consistent with the
face surface for a consistent application of a stain or finish. Any
tooth marks are pretty much non existent.
I sell my work too and it is pretty intricate. I don't tolerate sub par
results from my equipment and don't use another machine to clean up what
another has not left done properly.
On 10/11/2012 7:45 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:28:39 -0400, Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 14:51:11 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> Now if you have 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
>>
>> We should all be so lucky to be able to afford two table saws *and*
>> have a large enough shop to be able to use them.
>
> We just moved into a house with a 2000 ft^2 basement but there are a *lot* of
> toys I want to buy before even thinking about another table saw. Changing
> blades isn't all that tough. ;-)
>
Changing blade is not tough but changing set ups can be a PIA.
Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
> I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much
> budget constrained.
>
> For 10+ years I've been running with:
>
> Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth
> Advanced Anti-Kickback Design
>
> and haven't done too badly.
>
> Rockler currently has:
> Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943
>
> How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make?
> Speculation is encouraged.
>
About the same difference as the difference between an occasionally-used
10-year old razor blade and a new one.
On Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:04:16 -0400, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 10/13/2012 8:02 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> Sounds like a good deal, provided they have the tooth geometry for the
>> material you plan to work with. You can always find out by visiting their
>> web site. They have a host of information to guide you to the right blade
>> for the job. I love Freud blades. I've never had one that didn't do exactly
>> what it was designed for, and provide better than expected results.
>
>I have a Freud 10" dado set I hate. Partly because it is 10" and not 7"
>like my old set. It's way harder to set up than my old set, and doesn't
>cut any better. Only thing I like about it is it's carbide.
I splurged and got there adjustable set, so far very happy with it.
Mike M
On 10/11/2012 11:41 PM, Mike M wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 13:53:11 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Thursday, October 11, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
>>> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you ha
ve
>> 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
>>
>> IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer.
>>
>> I have one I throw on when making plywood boxes, etc. for around the shop or sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc.
>
> Out of curiousity have you ever tried a WWII Blade. Just curious if
> you've felt you were doing better with the other blades.
>
> Mike M
>
IIRC he mentioned using a Forrest blade and IIRC Forrest does not make a
rip blade. So my "guess" is that he has used a Forrest General cut
blade, maybe not. If he was not happy with the results of a WWII
"something" was not right.
On 10/11/2012 1:23 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> When those glue line rips first came out I did seem to have some success. With my saw stop I have that fence dialed in with just a few thou lean out on and I still get teeth marks on my rips with that blade or any thin kerf actually.
Although I do own one special purpose thin kerf, as a general rule I
don't use thin kerf blades ... the Freud blade I was referring to is
1/8" kerf, Glue-Line-Rip.
--
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On 10/12/2012 2:42 AM, Dave wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:45:51 -0400, "[email protected]"
>> We just moved into a house with a 2000 ft^2 basement but there are a *lot* of
>> toys I want to buy before even thinking about another table saw. Changing
>> blades isn't all that tough. ;-)
>
> Given (reasonable) aspirations for a workshop, I'd want a shop big
> enough to house several machines the size of a decent Felder table
> saw. It would have to be capable of handing entire 8' sheets of ply
> and completely outfitted with a power feeder.
>
> Punch a couple of numbers into a computer screen and then watch it
> happen.
>
> This one would do. :)
> http://www.format-4.ca/products_features.php?parent=9e5e5cc98dc03df70393&xat_code=dfe29b2ff457bc0b6430®ion=ca-us
>
>
I think I would opt for going totally CNC if room were not a factor, I
think less waste might be a plus factor.
On 10/12/2012 12:01 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Thursday, October 11, 2012 9:26:03 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
>> On 10/11/2012 3:53 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Thursday, October 11, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote: >> On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: > On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or gener
al purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you hav e 2 table saw, that might change considerations. > > IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer. If you believe that a "good" combo blade is only appropriate for basic cabinet work something was/is not right. I no longer own a jointer as I never used the one I had and I never over size a cut. I get what might be considered perfect cuts 98% of the time and sanding is most often not necessary other than to prep the cut surface to be consistent with the face surface for a consistent application of a stain or finish. Any tooth marks are pretty much non existent. I sell my work too and it is pretty intricate. I don't
tolerate sub par results from my equipment and don't use another machine to clean up what another has not left done properly.
>
> I don't dispute your claim. Sounds like you have a well tuned instrument (saw) and good technique.
>
Well I do only use a 40 tooth general blade which might make the big
difference and I seldom rip material thicker than 3/4" thick, another
big factor.