I want to attempt a piano style finish on MDF with BIN then some Flecto
Varathane Liquid Plastic. Anyone do this before ?
Sean.
Ba r r y wrote:
> On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 02:31:51 -0300, SDogg <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Somebody suggested to me that B-I-N was good for priming MDF.
>
>
> It's awesome for MDF. It dries hard and sands very well. Plain old
> Seal Coat also works well, but I give the nod to BIN for the white
> pigment. I've also tried auto body primer, glue size, drywall
> compound, and others. I always seem to go back to BIN or Seal Coat.
>
> FWIW, we've gone around on the 'wreck a few times on what BIN is. The
> latest cans I've purchased have "Shellac Base" in yellow, right on the
> front of the can.
>
> Does Zinnser lurk? <G>
>
> Barry
I'll agree with your conclusion, but not how you got there. Lacquer also
requires time to cure, especially to rub to a very high sheen. Poly may take a
little longer, or much longer depending on the type. In any case, they are
both very hard. Lacquer (or shellac, also), however, will fracture much
sharper than most any poly, and will give you a higher sheen with less work.
GerryG
On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 10:35:36 GMT, Ba r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 19 Sep 2004 23:21:17 -0300, SDogg <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>What process do you go through for that ? Something Ive never done. Is
>>it durable ?
>
>It's plenty durable. High-end furniture, musical instruments, like
>pianos and custom guitars, and custom cars are finished with
>Nitrocellulose lacquer.
>
>It involves, priming & filling, wet sanding, color coats, and clear
>coats. Dewaxed shellac, like Zinnser Seal Coat, works great as a
>barrier coat between products. The final coats are rubbed out to a
>wet-like shine with automotive polishing compounds. This process
>isn't difficult, but it is time consuming.
>
>Lacquer dries hard, so it rubs out well. Liquid plastics and
>polyurethanes build quickly, but stay soft for a long time.
>
><http://groups.google.com/groups?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&q=high+gloss+lacquer+finish>
>
>Try some test boards, write your steps on the back for troubleshooting
>or success duplication, and have at it!
>
>Barry
Sorry to be ignorant, but what is MDF short for?
"SDogg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Somebody suggested to me that B-I-N was good for priming MDF.
>
> Anybody have any experience with this or wish to make a recommendation ?
>
> Thanks.
no sweat = only way to learn is to ask
medium density fiberboard
"Donald Guzzetta" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Sorry to be ignorant, but what is MDF short for?
"SDogg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Somebody suggested to me that B-I-N was good for priming MDF.
>
> Anybody have any experience with this or wish to make a recommendation ?
>
> Thanks.
Exposed core of MDF can sure suck up paint.
I happened to have a can of latex galvanized steel primer out for
a different project. What the heck, tried it on a small project.
Brush primed the edges. Sprayed project with rattle can paint -
great.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"SDogg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Somebody suggested to me that B-I-N was good for priming MDF.
>
> Anybody have any experience with this or wish to make a
> recommendation ?
>
> Thanks.
GerryG wrote:
> I'll agree with your conclusion, but not how you got there. Lacquer also
> requires time to cure, especially to rub to a very high sheen. Poly may
> take a little longer, or much longer depending on the type. In any case,
> they are both very hard.
"Polyurethane" covers a wide range of compositions--some are quite soft,
some are quite hard.
> Lacquer (or shellac, also), however, will
> fracture much sharper than most any poly, and will give you a higher sheen
> with less work. GerryG
>
> On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 10:35:36 GMT, Ba r r y
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 19 Sep 2004 23:21:17 -0300, SDogg <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>What process do you go through for that ? Something Ive never done. Is
>>>it durable ?
>>
>>It's plenty durable. High-end furniture, musical instruments, like
>>pianos and custom guitars, and custom cars are finished with
>>Nitrocellulose lacquer.
>>
>>It involves, priming & filling, wet sanding, color coats, and clear
>>coats. Dewaxed shellac, like Zinnser Seal Coat, works great as a
>>barrier coat between products. The final coats are rubbed out to a
>>wet-like shine with automotive polishing compounds. This process
>>isn't difficult, but it is time consuming.
>>
>>Lacquer dries hard, so it rubs out well. Liquid plastics and
>>polyurethanes build quickly, but stay soft for a long time.
>>
>><http://groups.google.com/groups?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&q=high+gloss+lacquer+finish>
>>
>>Try some test boards, write your steps on the back for troubleshooting
>>or success duplication, and have at it!
>>
>>Barry
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Sun, 19 Sep 2004 23:21:17 -0300, SDogg <[email protected]> wrote:
>What process do you go through for that ? Something Ive never done. Is
>it durable ?
It's plenty durable. High-end furniture, musical instruments, like
pianos and custom guitars, and custom cars are finished with
Nitrocellulose lacquer.
It involves, priming & filling, wet sanding, color coats, and clear
coats. Dewaxed shellac, like Zinnser Seal Coat, works great as a
barrier coat between products. The final coats are rubbed out to a
wet-like shine with automotive polishing compounds. This process
isn't difficult, but it is time consuming.
Lacquer dries hard, so it rubs out well. Liquid plastics and
polyurethanes build quickly, but stay soft for a long time.
<http://groups.google.com/groups?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&q=high+gloss+lacquer+finish>
Try some test boards, write your steps on the back for troubleshooting
or success duplication, and have at it!
Barry
On Sun, 19 Sep 2004 20:22:38 -0300, SDogg <[email protected]> wrote:
>I want to attempt a piano style finish on MDF with BIN then some Flecto
>Varathane Liquid Plastic. Anyone do this before ?
No, but I've done it with BIN and lacquer.
Lacquers really rub out to a killer gloss.
Barry
On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 02:31:51 -0300, SDogg <[email protected]> wrote:
>Somebody suggested to me that B-I-N was good for priming MDF.
It's awesome for MDF. It dries hard and sands very well. Plain old
Seal Coat also works well, but I give the nod to BIN for the white
pigment. I've also tried auto body primer, glue size, drywall
compound, and others. I always seem to go back to BIN or Seal Coat.
FWIW, we've gone around on the 'wreck a few times on what BIN is. The
latest cans I've purchased have "Shellac Base" in yellow, right on the
front of the can.
Does Zinnser lurk? <G>
Barry
What process do you go through for that ? Something Ive never done. Is
it durable ?
Ba r r y wrote:
> On Sun, 19 Sep 2004 20:22:38 -0300, SDogg <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I want to attempt a piano style finish on MDF with BIN then some Flecto
>>Varathane Liquid Plastic. Anyone do this before ?
>
>
> No, but I've done it with BIN and lacquer.
>
> Lacquers really rub out to a killer gloss.
>
> Barry
> FWIW, we've gone around on the 'wreck a few times on what BIN is. The
> latest cans I've purchased have "Shellac Base" in yellow, right on the
> front of the can
I've always understood BIN to be a 4 pound cut shellac with a hefty amount
of white pigment added. Probably has a few other minor ingredients as well.
Ian
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 02:31:51 -0300, SDogg <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Somebody suggested to me that B-I-N was good for priming MDF.
>
> It's awesome for MDF. It dries hard and sands very well. Plain old
> Seal Coat also works well, but I give the nod to BIN for the white
> pigment. I've also tried auto body primer, glue size, drywall
> compound, and others. I always seem to go back to BIN or Seal Coat.
>
> FWIW, we've gone around on the 'wreck a few times on what BIN is. The
> latest cans I've purchased have "Shellac Base" in yellow, right on the
> front of the can.
>
> Does Zinnser lurk? <G>
>
> Barry