Hi, folks,
Using lots of advice I've found on this group, I set about adjusting
my Grizzly contractor tablesaw to correct its extreme blade heel
problem--the back of the blade was over to the left at least 1/4 inch
more than the front of the blade!
I loosened the two back trunnion bolts and whacked, to no avail.
I loosened one of the front ones--still no better.
I have now loosened all four.
The whole assemble is will move around, but it seems to be moving
AROUND a point at the front of the blade. In other words, I can push
the back of the blade (via the trunnions below) and move the assembly
and the blade back and forth--but it's basically pivoting at the front
of the blade.
Just moving the back doesn't make enough of a correction. I need to
move the front one way and the back the other, but the front doesn't
seem to want to move.
Can anyone offer any advice? Thanks!
DS
On Apr 25, 7:12 pm, VeryLargeCorp <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi, folks,
>
> Using lots of advice I've found on this group, I set about adjusting
> my Grizzly contractor tablesaw to correct its extreme blade heel
> problem--the back of the blade was over to the left at least 1/4 inch
> more than the front of the blade!
>
> I loosened the two back trunnion bolts and whacked, to no avail.
>
> I loosened one of the front ones--still no better.
>
> I have now loosened all four.
>
> The whole assemble is will move around, but it seems to be moving
> AROUND a point at the front of the blade. In other words, I can push
> the back of the blade (via the trunnions below) and move the assembly
> and the blade back and forth--but it's basically pivoting at the front
> of the blade.
>
> Just moving the back doesn't make enough of a correction. I need to
> move the front one way and the back the other, but the front doesn't
> seem to want to move.
>
> Can anyone offer any advice? Thanks!
>
> DS
Had a similar problem with my Jet CTS so you are not alone. Make sure
you loosen up the tilt wheel from the case that could keep the front
from moving.
So, when you "put a clamp on the back trunnion," what exactly did you
clamp TO?
I'm glad to hear I'm not the only who has had this problem. I've
talked to the folks at Grizzly and they've tried to be helpful, but
they're giving me the basic troubleshooting tips that are in the
manual, and don't seem to apply when the amount off is SO much.
(I have ordered a set of PALs--thanks for the tip.)
Thanks!
ds
Thanks for the suggestions. Because the difference from front to back
is so extreme (more than 1/4 inch), I haven't been very precise in my
measurements. I'm trying to just get it in the ballpark before
bothering with precision.
But to answer your question, I'm measuring with a stick clamped to the
miter bar. The stick has a screw in the end. Not the ultimate in
precision, I know, but good enough to get a least kinda close, I would
hope.
ds
Is this a new saw? If so, return it, it's defective. That is assuming
you didn't forget to loosen a bolt or two!!
I don't like the idea of using clamps to get a casting to line up.
Whats actually moving when you use the clamps? Is something bending?
Maybe this is why we hear of broken trunions?
Be careful with it. I've seen cast iron pieces snap, when tightened
down, and not aligned properly.
On Apr 26, 12:10 pm, sailor <[email protected]> wrote:
> Is this a new saw? If so, return it, it's defective. That is assuming
> you didn't forget to loosen a bolt or two!!
It's new--still under warranty. The Grizzly folks actually offered to
start a return procedure, at least for the main table with the
trunnion mechanism. That's such a hassle, I'm just trying everything I
can before doing a return.
DS
On Apr 26, 2:01 pm, Pat Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
> In my opinion, you have to have two things to align
> any contractor saw:
>
> (1) TS-Aligner ttp://www.ts-aligner.com/
> (2)http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html
My Delta CS cuts better than most PM66s, thanks to the PALS
upgrade, so well I've forgetten they're there. Aligned the blade
with a homemade sled-style dial gauge carriage.
Only prob was the inside corner fillets on the PALS brackets required
a
bit of filing to get the washers to sit dead flat.
> Without these two devices, you are in for a very long
> day or night.......
>
> You also need the instructions I gave you in a earlier
> message from the B&D site.
>
> VeryLargeCorp wrote:
> > Hi, folks,
>
> > Using lots of advice I've found on this group, I set about adjusting
> > my Grizzly contractor tablesaw to correct its extreme blade heel
> > problem--the back of the blade was over to the left at least 1/4 inch
> > more than the front of the blade!
On Apr 26, 6:09 pm, "<<<__ Bob __>>>" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Stoutman wrote:
> > Was he using the same spot on the blade for the front and back measurements?
> > If he wasn't, he is introducing even more error onto his "stick on a miter
> > gauge" alignment method technique.
>
> Damn, Sam .. .. when you're talking about .250"+ discrepency, I wouldn't
> be too concerned with WHAT tooth he used .. UNLESS his blade is warped
> by that amount .. get real here. For what he's trying to accomplish
> here, a high-dollar alignment tool would be a waste of time and money.
> The ONLY thing a TS-Aligner would do is to more accurately inform him
> of the degree of his problem.
> Hell, I have one or two test indicators whose total travel is probably
> less than .250", but they are extremely accurate within their range.
> Maybe that's what he needs .. an indicator that reads in ten-thousandths
> of an inch .. .. that'll make his error appear 10 times greater .. ..
> AND it will be super-accurate !! !! !!
>
> sheesh !!!
Agreed, to a point. All you really need to align the blade to the slot
is a consistent reference point (provided by the screw on the stick on
the gauge) and a set of feeler gauges. Tom
On Apr 26, 6:29 pm, tom <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 26, 6:09 pm, "<<<__ Bob __>>>" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Stoutman wrote:
> > > Was he using the same spot on the blade for the front and back measurements?
> > > If he wasn't, he is introducing even more error onto his "stick on a miter
> > > gauge" alignment method technique.
>
> > Damn, Sam .. .. when you're talking about .250"+ discrepency, I wouldn't
> > be too concerned with WHAT tooth he used .. UNLESS his blade is warped
> > by that amount .. get real here. For what he's trying to accomplish
> > here, a high-dollar alignment tool would be a waste of time and money.
> > The ONLY thing a TS-Aligner would do is to more accurately inform him
> > of the degree of his problem.
> > Hell, I have one or two test indicators whose total travel is probably
> > less than .250", but they are extremely accurate within their range.
> > Maybe that's what he needs .. an indicator that reads in ten-thousandths
> > of an inch .. .. that'll make his error appear 10 times greater .. ..
> > AND it will be super-accurate !! !! !!
>
> > sheesh !!!
>
> Agreed, to a point. All you really need to align the blade to the slot
> is a consistent reference point (provided by the screw on the stick on
> the gauge) and a set of feeler gauges. Tom- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Sorry to the TSaligner clan... Tom
On Apr 26, 7:18 pm, "<<<__ Bob __>>>" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Stoutman wrote:
> > Feeler gauge?? Won't the feeler gauge flex the blade over as you slip it
> > between?
>
> Not if you learn how to use one .. .. .. a rare skill in this day of
> digital-mania !! The skill of "feeling" the drag on a feeler gauge is
> the secret to it's use. BTW, that's how the "feeler gauge" got it's
> name .. .. .. you FEEL the drag.
Ahh, rare skills, indeed. Tom
On Apr 25, 7:12 pm, VeryLargeCorp <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi, folks,
>
> Using lots of advice I've found on this group, I set about adjusting
> my Grizzly contractor tablesaw to correct its extreme blade heel
> problem--the back of the blade was over to the left at least 1/4 inch
> more than the front of the blade!
>
> I loosened the two back trunnion bolts and whacked, to no avail.
>
> I loosened one of the front ones--still no better.
>
> I have now loosened all four.
>
> The whole assemble is will move around, but it seems to be moving
> AROUND a point at the front of the blade. In other words, I can push
> the back of the blade (via the trunnions below) and move the assembly
> and the blade back and forth--but it's basically pivoting at the front
> of the blade.
>
> Just moving the back doesn't make enough of a correction. I need to
> move the front one way and the back the other, but the front doesn't
> seem to want to move.
>
> Can anyone offer any advice? Thanks!
>
> DS
Just got this offer via email
http://www.ptreeusa.com/edirect_042707.htm
can't speak to the quality just passing it along.
On Apr 28, 6:09 pm, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> You can get closer than that with a piece of paper. Always available, were a
> feeler gage may not be.
Rolling papers = 0.001".
3 x 5 index cards = 1/128" exactly.
> "Jim Weisgram" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > When you are ready for precision, you can add a feeler guage to the
> > mix. Get the screw close but not touching, and the feeler guage will
> > get you to within .001".
On May 4, 7:39 pm, Bill in Detroit <[email protected]> wrote:
> Father Haskell wrote:
> > On Apr 28, 6:09 pm, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> You can get closer than that with a piece of paper. Always available, were a
> >> feeler gage may not be.
>
> > Rolling papers = 0.001".
>
> > 3 x 5 index cards = 1/128" exactly.
>
> Most notebook papers ~.003" ... but this sort of measurement doesn't
> care how thick the paper is as long as he uses the same piece of paper
> for both front and back measurement. We don't care how big the gap is
> ... only that it is the same front to back. That is enough to establish
> parallelism. For that matter, he could also use the shank end of a drill
> bit as his feeler stock.
>
> Bill
>
> --http://nmwoodworks.com/cube
>
> ---
> avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
> Virus Database (VPS): 000738-2, 05/04/2007
> Tested on: 5/4/2007 10:39:52 PM
> avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.http://www.avast.com
Hi, just to follow up on this (I'm the OP)--I wound up sending it back
to Grizzly. They were very easy to deal with and paid shipping. I
still don't know what the problem was, but I'm glad I can have some
experts take care of it for me. Thanks to everyone for the advice and
opinions.
ds
VeryLargeCorp wrote:
> On Apr 26, 12:10 pm, sailor <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Is this a new saw? If so, return it, it's defective. That is assuming
>> you didn't forget to loosen a bolt or two!!
>
> It's new--still under warranty. The Grizzly folks actually offered to
> start a return procedure, at least for the main table with the
> trunnion mechanism. That's such a hassle, I'm just trying everything I
> can before doing a return.
>
I missed the beginning of this thread, but if it's a contractor saw check to
be sure the error is the same at 90 and at 45. If not, the two bars
connecting the front and back trunnions are not parallel.
--
It's turtles, all the way down
Stoutman wrote:
>
> If you really serious about getting your table saw aligned. Give this a
> try:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_aligner.htm
>
> Disclaimer: No affiliation. Just a satisfied customer.
>
If he's actually 1/4" out, he should be able to eyeball it. Extending
the blade on a try-square and dropping its frame into the miter slot
will get him even closer.
Once he gets it -that- close, he can start casting about for a way to
bring it on home. But if he can't get it straight by eye, then he's got
more problems than a TS-Aligner can help him with.
I think you know that I'm all in favor of using indicators when
appropriate. But until he can get it as close as the try-square --or
even the screw on a stick-- will allow, he isn't ready for an indicator.
Bill
--
http://nmwoodworks.com/cube
---
avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
Virus Database (VPS): 000738-2, 05/04/2007
Tested on: 5/4/2007 10:27:57 PM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com
<<<__ Bob __>>> wrote:
> Stoutman wrote:
>
>> Feeler gauge?? Won't the feeler gauge flex the blade over as you
>> slip it between?
>
>
> Not if you learn how to use one .. .. .. a rare skill in this day of
> digital-mania !! The skill of "feeling" the drag on a feeler gauge is
> the secret to it's use. BTW, that's how the "feeler gauge" got it's
> name .. .. .. you FEEL the drag.
>
Same sense of touch is used with a micrometer ... even if you have a
ratchet or friction thimble. I always adjusted mine for a light sense of
touch, not full-on with the thimble.
Bill
--
http://nmwoodworks.com/cube
---
avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
Virus Database (VPS): 000738-2, 05/04/2007
Tested on: 5/4/2007 10:33:28 PM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com
Father Haskell wrote:
> On Apr 28, 6:09 pm, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> You can get closer than that with a piece of paper. Always available, were a
>> feeler gage may not be.
>
> Rolling papers = 0.001".
>
> 3 x 5 index cards = 1/128" exactly.
>
>
Most notebook papers ~.003" ... but this sort of measurement doesn't
care how thick the paper is as long as he uses the same piece of paper
for both front and back measurement. We don't care how big the gap is
... only that it is the same front to back. That is enough to establish
parallelism. For that matter, he could also use the shank end of a drill
bit as his feeler stock.
Bill
--
http://nmwoodworks.com/cube
---
avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
Virus Database (VPS): 000738-2, 05/04/2007
Tested on: 5/4/2007 10:39:52 PM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com
Again,
How are you checking for alignment? If you are checking for alignment
parallel with the miter slot, make sure you use the SAME spot on the blade
for the front and back measurement. Mark the blade with a sharpie and take
a measurement in the front then spin the
blade positioning the sharpie spot in the back and remeasure.
What are you using to make these measurements?
--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com
"VeryLargeCorp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the suggestions. Because the difference from front to back
> is so extreme (more than 1/4 inch), I haven't been very precise in my
> measurements. I'm trying to just get it in the ballpark before
> bothering with precision.
>
> But to answer your question, I'm measuring with a stick clamped to the
> miter bar. The stick has a screw in the end. Not the ultimate in
> precision, I know, but good enough to get a least kinda close, I would
> hope.
>
> ds
>
If you really serious about getting your table saw aligned. Give this a
try:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_aligner.htm
Disclaimer: No affiliation. Just a satisfied customer.
--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com
"<<<__ Bob __>>>" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Stoutman wrote:
>
>> If you really serious about getting your table saw aligned. Give this a
>> try:
>>
>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_aligner.htm
>>
>> Disclaimer: No affiliation. Just a satisfied customer.
>>
> I don't think his problen is being able to measure how far off it is .. ..
> he can't move it enough to get it in proper alignment .. .. how will a
> TS-Aligner help him with that ??
Once he is able to move it, how is he going to align it? (the stick on a
miter gauge technique gets you close; the TS-Aligner gets you there all the
way!).
--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com
"<<<__ Bob __>>>" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Stoutman wrote:
>
>> If you really serious about getting your table saw aligned. Give this a
>> try:
>>
>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_aligner.htm
>>
>> Disclaimer: No affiliation. Just a satisfied customer.
>>
> I don't think his problen is being able to measure how far off it is .. ..
> he can't move it enough to get it in proper alignment .. .. how will a
> TS-Aligner help him with that ??
One more thing. What do you mean by "proper alignment"? I am a little
skeptical that his saw was that out of wack before he started screwing with
it.
How close to "proper alignment" can you get with the stick on a miter gauge
technique? 0.1" 0.01??? As little as 0.005" in error can adversely
effect the quality of your cuts.
Was he using the same spot on the blade for the front and back measurements?
If he wasn't, he is introducing even more error onto his "stick on a miter
gauge" alignment method technique.
--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com
> Damn, Sam .. .. when you're talking about .250"+ discrepency, I wouldn't
> be too concerned with WHAT tooth he used .. UNLESS his blade is warped by
> that amount .. get real here.
Blade warp or highs and lows add to ANY error measurement, regardless of
what tool he used.
> For what he's trying to accomplish here,
He is trying to align his blade parallel (trunnion adjustment) with his
miter gage slot. Why wouldn't you want to align it properly? Stick on a
miter gage isn't the proper way of doing this. I really question the error
he initially reported because of the method he acquired it.
>a high-dollar alignment tool would be a waste of time and money.
This tool is far from "high-dollar". Geesh. How much did he spend on his
TS? Blade?
> The ONLY thing a TS-Aligner would do is to more accurately inform him of
> the degree of his problem.
You hit the nail right on the head.
> Hell, I have one or two test indicators whose total travel is probably
> less than .250", but they are extremely accurate within their range. Maybe
> that's what he needs .. an indicator that reads in ten-thousandths of an
> inch .. .. that'll make his error appear 10 times greater .. ..
NO!! It won't make his error appear 10 times greater. It will make his
error reading more accurate.
> AND it will be super-accurate !! !! !!
Yes. Why not?
>
>
> sheesh !!!
Geesh!
> Using that technique, I can get it within .002, guaranteed. Likely closer.
> Indicator is faster though.
Feeler gauge?? Won't the feeler gauge flex the blade over as you slip it
between? I push on my blade (CMT combo blade) a smidge and I see my
indicator swing like mad (even though the flex is not visible to the eye).
>
> "Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> How close to "proper alignment" can you get with the stick on a miter
> gauge
>> technique? 0.1" 0.01??? As little as 0.005" in error can adversely
>> effect the quality of your cuts.
>
>
>
> I use both my square to measure from the miter track and dial guage to
> check the sawblade for trueness.
> I got my dial gauge and magnetic mount from Harbor Freight both for $16 on
> sale. It works just great. It was made in China, but so what , the TS
> Aligner was probably made there too.
Nope. Made in the good ol' USA by Edward Bennett.
>I also mounted my gauge on a piece of hard wood that fits in the miter
>gauge track and by doing this I was able to slide the gauge forward and
>backward.
>
>
>
In my opinion, you have to have two things to align
any contractor saw:
(1) TS-Aligner ttp://www.ts-aligner.com/
(2) http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html
Without these two devices, you are in for a very long
day or night.......
You also need the instructions I gave you in a earlier
message from the B&D site.
VeryLargeCorp wrote:
> Hi, folks,
>
> Using lots of advice I've found on this group, I set about adjusting
> my Grizzly contractor tablesaw to correct its extreme blade heel
> problem--the back of the blade was over to the left at least 1/4 inch
> more than the front of the blade!
>
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When you first posted, you said that this just happened. It was suggested
> then that you check to be sure that nothing is broken or loose. Have you
> checked? Alignment problems like this don't just happen.
>
> "VeryLargeCorp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Thanks for the suggestions. Because the difference from front to back
>> is so extreme (more than 1/4 inch), I haven't been very precise in my
>> measurements. I'm trying to just get it in the ballpark before
>> bothering with precision.
>>
>> But to answer your question, I'm measuring with a stick clamped to the
>> miter bar. The stick has a screw in the end. Not the ultimate in
>> precision, I know, but good enough to get a least kinda close, I would
>> hope.
>>
>> ds
>>
I use both my square to measure from the miter track and dial guage to check
the sawblade for trueness.
I got my dial gauge and magnetic mount from Harbor Freight both for $16 on
sale. It works just great. It was made in China, but so what , the TS
Aligner was probably made there too. I also mounted my gauge on a piece of
hard wood that fits in the miter gauge track and by doing this I was able to
slide the gauge forward and backward.
Using that technique, I can get it within .002, guaranteed. Likely closer.
Indicator is faster though.
"Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> How close to "proper alignment" can you get with the stick on a miter
gauge
> technique? 0.1" 0.01??? As little as 0.005" in error can adversely
> effect the quality of your cuts.
You can get closer than that with a piece of paper. Always available, were a
feeler gage may not be.
"Jim Weisgram" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> When you are ready for precision, you can add a feeler guage to the
> mix. Get the screw close but not touching, and the feeler guage will
> get you to within .001".
When you first posted, you said that this just happened. It was suggested
then that you check to be sure that nothing is broken or loose. Have you
checked? Alignment problems like this don't just happen.
"VeryLargeCorp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the suggestions. Because the difference from front to back
> is so extreme (more than 1/4 inch), I haven't been very precise in my
> measurements. I'm trying to just get it in the ballpark before
> bothering with precision.
>
> But to answer your question, I'm measuring with a stick clamped to the
> miter bar. The stick has a screw in the end. Not the ultimate in
> precision, I know, but good enough to get a least kinda close, I would
> hope.
>
> ds
>
"VeryLargeCorp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, folks,
>
> Using lots of advice I've found on this group, I set about adjusting
> my Grizzly contractor tablesaw to correct its extreme blade heel
> problem--the back of the blade was over to the left at least 1/4 inch
> more than the front of the blade!
>
> I loosened the two back trunnion bolts and whacked, to no avail.
>
> I loosened one of the front ones--still no better.
>
> I have now loosened all four.
>
> The whole assemble is will move around, but it seems to be moving
> AROUND a point at the front of the blade. In other words, I can push
> the back of the blade (via the trunnions below) and move the assembly
> and the blade back and forth--but it's basically pivoting at the front
> of the blade.
>
> Just moving the back doesn't make enough of a correction. I need to
> move the front one way and the back the other, but the front doesn't
> seem to want to move.
>
> Can anyone offer any advice? Thanks!
>
> DS
>
This sound seems to show that the front trunnion is frozen in place.
You could try freeing the bolts by the use of a very long cheater.
Sometimes bolts can be freed by heating them with a torch, but you might set
the whole place on fire if there is any sawdust around. Sometimes, an
impact wrench will loosen an otherwise stuck bolt.
Otherwise, you might succeed in getting the bolts out by turning the saw
over (to keep things from falling down when you get the bolts loose enough).
Jim
I had the exact same problem with my Grizzly G0444Z saw as you, being 1/4"
off and burning the wood when ripping. I previously posted it in this NG.
I had a lot of trouble moving the trunnion. One person on this NG said that
he put a large clamp on the back trunnion and brought it in by tightening
the clamp. I did this too and was able to bring the blade in. I put a dial
guage on the blade and the best I could acheive was it being 2,000th of and
inch out. I was informed that was good enough. I been toying with the idea
of taking the back trunnion off and elongating the 2 holes so that I could
get it dead on. I may call Grizzly and see what they say.
One thing you should look at is making sure that your fence is not out of
alignment too. Some say the fence should be an 1/8th off in the back and
others say it should be dead on. I put mine dead on.
Take a look at this site http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html
Ive been thinking of getting this item.
Stoutman wrote:
> Was he using the same spot on the blade for the front and back measurements?
> If he wasn't, he is introducing even more error onto his "stick on a miter
> gauge" alignment method technique.
>
>
Damn, Sam .. .. when you're talking about .250"+ discrepency, I wouldn't
be too concerned with WHAT tooth he used .. UNLESS his blade is warped
by that amount .. get real here. For what he's trying to accomplish
here, a high-dollar alignment tool would be a waste of time and money.
The ONLY thing a TS-Aligner would do is to more accurately inform him
of the degree of his problem.
Hell, I have one or two test indicators whose total travel is probably
less than .250", but they are extremely accurate within their range.
Maybe that's what he needs .. an indicator that reads in ten-thousandths
of an inch .. .. that'll make his error appear 10 times greater .. ..
AND it will be super-accurate !! !! !!
sheesh !!!
When I first got my tablesaw I checked and set the alignment only
by setting a combination square body up against the miter slot and
extending the blade til it just kissed the frontmost tooth of the blade.
Turn the blade til that same tooth is at the rear, then move the combination
square back, adjust until the blade makes same degree of contact with
same tooth at the rear. A little time consuming perhaps but effective. IIRC
I read of this method in Kelly Mehler's Tablesaw book. After I got
a dial indicator and rechecked the saw it was within a few thousandths.
--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
"VeryLargeCorp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So, when you "put a clamp on the back trunnion," what exactly did you
> clamp TO?
I took a pipe clamp and put one end on the end of the trunnion and the other
end on the on the side of the saw cabinet and tightened it .
> I'm glad to hear I'm not the only who has had this problem. I've
> talked to the folks at Grizzly and they've tried to be helpful, but
> they're giving me the basic troubleshooting tips that are in the
> manual, and don't seem to apply when the amount off is SO much.
>
> (I have ordered a set of PALs--thanks for the tip.)
>
> Thanks!
> ds
>
On 25 Apr 2007 16:12:54 -0700, VeryLargeCorp <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi, folks,
>
>Using lots of advice I've found on this group, I set about adjusting
>my Grizzly contractor tablesaw to correct its extreme blade heel
>problem--the back of the blade was over to the left at least 1/4 inch
>more than the front of the blade!
>
>I loosened the two back trunnion bolts and whacked, to no avail.
>
>I loosened one of the front ones--still no better.
>
>I have now loosened all four.
>
>The whole assemble is will move around, but it seems to be moving
>AROUND a point at the front of the blade. In other words, I can push
>the back of the blade (via the trunnions below) and move the assembly
>and the blade back and forth--but it's basically pivoting at the front
>of the blade.
>
>Just moving the back doesn't make enough of a correction. I need to
>move the front one way and the back the other, but the front doesn't
>seem to want to move.
>
>Can anyone offer any advice? Thanks!
>
>DS
Are you sure you got all the bolts? On my new saw, I noticed it had 3
bolts in each trunnion compared to the two on my previous saw.
On 25 Apr 2007 16:12:54 -0700, VeryLargeCorp <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi, folks,
>
<snipped>
>
>DS
When you get through knocking it about, don't forget to check at full
45 to make sure you don't have interference with something. You don't
want to find that out when you crank over to make a bevel cut. In
particular, there is a rather small zone that clears the insert. The
blade to slot dimension has a small tolerance.
Frank
Except for the gage, which is made in China. The TSA is a fine piece of work
though and if I was to buy a device such as this, it would be the one.
"Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Nope. Made in the good ol' USA by Edward Bennett.
>
>
Stoutman wrote:
> If you really serious about getting your table saw aligned. Give this a
> try:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_aligner.htm
>
> Disclaimer: No affiliation. Just a satisfied customer.
>
I don't think his problen is being able to measure how far off it is ..
.. he can't move it enough to get it in proper alignment .. .. how will
a TS-Aligner help him with that ??
Stoutman wrote:
> Feeler gauge?? Won't the feeler gauge flex the blade over as you slip it
> between?
Not if you learn how to use one .. .. .. a rare skill in this day of
digital-mania !! The skill of "feeling" the drag on a feeler gauge is
the secret to it's use. BTW, that's how the "feeler gauge" got it's
name .. .. .. you FEEL the drag.
On 26 Apr 2007 08:59:34 -0700, VeryLargeCorp <[email protected]> wrote:
>Thanks for the suggestions. Because the difference from front to back
>is so extreme (more than 1/4 inch), I haven't been very precise in my
>measurements. I'm trying to just get it in the ballpark before
>bothering with precision.
>
>But to answer your question, I'm measuring with a stick clamped to the
>miter bar. The stick has a screw in the end. Not the ultimate in
>precision, I know, but good enough to get a least kinda close, I would
>hope.
>
>ds
When you are ready for precision, you can add a feeler guage to the
mix. Get the screw close but not touching, and the feeler guage will
get you to within .001".
I don't use a feeler gage.
"Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> > Using that technique, I can get it within .002, guaranteed. Likely
closer.
> > Indicator is faster though.
>
> Feeler gauge?? Won't the feeler gauge flex the blade over as you slip it
> between? I push on my blade (CMT combo blade) a smidge and I see my
> indicator swing like mad (even though the flex is not visible to the eye).
>
>
> >
> > "Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >> How close to "proper alignment" can you get with the stick on a miter
> > gauge
> >> technique? 0.1" 0.01??? As little as 0.005" in error can adversely
> >> effect the quality of your cuts.
> >
> >
> >
>
>