I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12) of
drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way is to
attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8 different
sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the right
size.
2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
--
mare
Here's what I do.
Make all fronts the exact size you want.
Make your holes a little oversize, like you said.
Spread a little glue on the (inside) fronts.
Use a spacer (like say 3/4 inch) between all horizontals
& verticals (fronts).
You have 30 minutes or so.
Once spaced the way you like them, shoot 2 pins/brads
to fix the fronts (I shoot toward the lower half).
If you have not attached the top, then you can reach inside
and shoot a few brads from the inside, which is preferable.
Open each drawer & tighten the screws.
Lou
In article
<1gt9w8z.1gnc9lx6gc72aN%mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.inv
alid.com>, mare
<mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com> wrote:
> I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12) of
> drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way is to
> attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8 different
> sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
>
> 1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the right
> size.
>
> 2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
> screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
> oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
>
> How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
> 2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
> screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
> oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
I normally use a block on the back of the drawer to set the drawer about
1/16th proud of the face, shim the drawer front to correct position, use
double-sided tape to hold in position, then screw from the back. The
over-sized hole is probably a good idea. You can also get drawer-adjust
buttons - little round adjusters with concentric cams that let you make
small adjustments.
mp <[email protected]> wrote:
> > 2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
> > screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
> > oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
>
> I normally use a block on the back of the drawer to set the drawer about
> 1/16th proud of the face, shim the drawer front to correct position, use
> double-sided tape to hold in position, then screw from the back. The
> over-sized hole is probably a good idea. You can also get drawer-adjust
> buttons - little round adjusters with concentric cams that let you make
> small adjustments.
Thanks for all the good tips! I'd planned using double sided tape for
method 2, but forgot to mention it.
--
mare
dadiOH <[email protected]> wrote:
> mare wrote:
> > I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12)
> > of drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way
> > is to attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8
> > different sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
> >
> > 1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the
> > right size.
> >
> > 2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
> > screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
> > oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
> >
> > How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
>
> My drawer fronts are part of the drawers, no attached fronts. Overlay
> fronts are attached to the sides via sliding dovetails.
Making dovetails in MDF drawer fronts seems a bit of overkill to me.
besides, the client won't pay me fot that. And because all these drawers
are different sized, and they have to be exactly the right size, I
figured even making dados in the drawer front was too much work.
--
mare
Frank J. Vitale <[email protected]> wrote:
> McFeely square drive screws makes some self-tapping screws that are just the
> right length for attaching faces to drawer fronts.
I'm in Canada, so I almost ALWAYS use square drive screws. There is even
a book about those screws. Nice Xmas presents for woodworker.
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0684867303/qid=1110655317>
--
mare
Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:zsOYd.20011
> > > Just curious, but what does Canada and square drive have to do with each
> > > other?
> > >
> > Robertson, the inventor, is from Canada. They have been around for many
> > years, but many people in the US have never heard of them. Including me
> > until a few years ago.
And they are the most common screw around here. I'd never heard about
them either before I came to Canada. I have screwed in about 30000
PoziDriv screws (I used to built rock climbing walls) a year or so and
wish they had Robertson's heads. It holds the screw so much better, you
do a very long time with a bit and the screws are almost glued to your
bit...
> Common knowledge for many of us up here. Gotta say that robertson screws are
> one of the more useful woodworking accessories to use. Now, if only I could
> find the fool that invented Torx screws and then everything would be
> complete.
He was a Norwegian guy name Tor but he kept his last name secret in case
you'd try to track him down.
--
mare
Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> "mare" wrote in message
> >
> > And they are the most common screw around here. I'd never heard about
> > them either before I came to Canada. I have screwed in about 30000
> > PoziDriv screws (I used to built rock climbing walls) a year or so and
>
> PoziDriv, I've never used. They're the ones like Philips but with an extra
> four wings aren't they?
No, they resemble Philips, but the wings are more square. They are
mainly used in Europe, although you can buy them in North America as
well. Much better than Philips but IMHO not as good as Robertsons.
These where the self tapping screws I used:
<http://www.spax.com/usa/spax.htm>
They have a sort of saw on the spirals and go in like butter, without
pilot holes. If you need to do a lot of screwing (think decks), you
might investigate these screws.
> > wish they had Robertson's heads. It holds the screw so much better, you
> > do a very long time with a bit and the screws are almost glued to your
> > bit...
>
> I haven't come across them too often, but I've seen poorly made Robertson
> screws before. They're either slightly too big, slightly too small or
> they're just not square to the bit. A complete pain in the ass. The two
> times I came across them I knew by the third screw they were garbage. It was
> cheaper just to throw the box out than waste the time taking them back.
That's possible. You always have bad apples.
--
mare
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 19:11:23 -0500,
> mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com (mare) wrote:
>
> >I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12) of
> >drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way is to
> >attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8 different
> >sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
> >
> >1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the right
> >size.
> >
> >2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
> >screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
> >oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
> >
> >How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
>
>
> I do 2)
I do 2 - sorta. I don't use oversized holes though. Just clamp the face in
place, drill the pilot holes and screw the face on.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
This is also how I do it.
Mike
"Gene T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would make them the right size, then use doble stick tape to get tham
all
> ositioned correctly first, then fasten them with screws. Just my two
> cents...
> Gene
> "mare" <mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com> wrote in
> message
>
news:1gt9w8z.1gnc9lx6gc72aN%mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com...
> > I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12) of
> > drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way is to
> > attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8 different
> > sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
> >
> > 1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the right
> > size.
> >
> > 2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
> > screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
> > oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
> >
> > How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
> >
> > --
> > mare
>
>
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 19:11:23 -0500,
>> mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com (mare) wrote:
>>
>> >I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12) of
>> >drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way is to
>> >attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8 different
>> >sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
>> >
>> >1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the right
>> >size.
>> >
>> >2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
>> >screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
>> >oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
>> >
>> >How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
>>
>>
>> I do 2)
>
> I do 2 - sorta. I don't use oversized holes though. Just clamp the face
> in
> place, drill the pilot holes and screw the face on.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
That's my method too.
Max
For kitchens with knobs/handles; I drill the drawer front,
place it where it belongs, and run screws thru the predrilled handle holes
into the box front. Then install with screws from the back and drill the
box front for handle holes and install the handles with screws all the way
though the box and dress front. Note: drill holes in drawer box for the
screws used to hold on the dress front. I use dry wall type screws (2-6)
plus the screws that hold on the handle/knob.
--
Alan Bierbaum
Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
Current project: http://home.comcast.net/~cabierbaum/
"mare" <mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com> wrote in
message
news:1gt9w8z.1gnc9lx6gc72aN%mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com...
>
> 2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
> screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
> oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
>
> How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
>
> --
> mare
"mare" wrote in message
>
> And they are the most common screw around here. I'd never heard about
> them either before I came to Canada. I have screwed in about 30000
> PoziDriv screws (I used to built rock climbing walls) a year or so and
PoziDriv, I've never used. They're the ones like Philips but with an extra
four wings aren't they?
> wish they had Robertson's heads. It holds the screw so much better, you
> do a very long time with a bit and the screws are almost glued to your
> bit...
I haven't come across them too often, but I've seen poorly made Robertson
screws before. They're either slightly too big, slightly too small or
they're just not square to the bit. A complete pain in the ass. The two
times I came across them I knew by the third screw they were garbage. It was
cheaper just to throw the box out than waste the time taking them back.
I have a box of 1,000 special screws--drawer front screws--that hide the
oversized hole. THAT'S how I deal with positioning a drawer front. I
think I've got a lifetime supply... <g>
Dave
mare wrote:
> I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12) of
> drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way is to
> attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8 different
> sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
>
> 1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the right
> size.
>
> 2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
> screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
> oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
>
> How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
>
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:zsOYd.20011
> > Just curious, but what does Canada and square drive have to do with each
> > other?
> >
> Robertson, the inventor, is from Canada. They have been around for many
> years, but many people in the US have never heard of them. Including me
> until a few years ago.
Common knowledge for many of us up here. Gotta say that robertson screws are
one of the more useful woodworking accessories to use. Now, if only I could
find the fool that invented Torx screws and then everything would be
complete.
mare wrote:
> I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12)
> of drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way
> is to attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8
> different sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
>
> 1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the
> right size.
>
> 2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
> screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
> oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
>
> How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
My drawer fronts are part of the drawers, no attached fronts. Overlay
fronts are attached to the sides via sliding dovetails.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
I would make them the right size, then use doble stick tape to get tham all
ositioned correctly first, then fasten them with screws. Just my two
cents...
Gene
"mare" <mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com> wrote in
message
news:1gt9w8z.1gnc9lx6gc72aN%mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com...
> I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12) of
> drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way is to
> attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8 different
> sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
>
> 1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the right
> size.
>
> 2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
> screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
> oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
>
> How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
>
> --
> mare
On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 19:11:23 -0500,
mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com (mare) wrote:
>I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12) of
>drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way is to
>attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8 different
>sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
>
>1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the right
>size.
>
>2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
>screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
>oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
>
>How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
depends on the drawer pulls, if any..
I like to cut the fronts a little over, maybe a couple of plane shavings over,
than drill the holes for the pulls and use the pulls/knobs to hold the faces on
while I'm adjusting the alignment, etc..
The "overhang" is enough to scribe a line for when they're glued on, and a
little "fudge factor" in case one has to slide a little sideways... not that any
of mine ever needed that, of course.. *g*
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 19:11:23 -0500,
mare*Remove*All*0f*This*I*Hate*Spammers*@mac.invalid.com (mare) wrote:
>I'm workin on a built-in entertainment center and made a couple (12) of
>drawers without fronts. Now I'm contemplating what the *best* way is to
>attach the fronts. The drawers are overlay, and there are 8 different
>sizes. I use Accuride full extension slides.
>
>1) Make fronts oversized, glue them on and later trim them to the right
>size.
>
>2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
>screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
>oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
>
>How would you do it? Maybe with be a totally different technique.
I do 2)
>> 2) Make the front the right size on the table saw and mount them with
>> screws from the inside of the drawer. Make the holes in the drawers
>> oversized and use washers, so I can position them.
I've done that. if you put one screw and hold it in place as you say, they
once properly positioned, put a couple of more screws in to hold it. In
some cases you can removed the drawers above it, clamp the front and just
screw from the inside.
If you are going to mount hardware you may also need longer bolts since the
front is thicker than just using a single panel. Mark the location and
drill a large recess in the front of the inside piece.
A fast alternative is to hold the front in place then just drive a 10d nail
through it.
"Rick Samuel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just curious, but what does Canada and square drive have to do with each
> other?
>
Robertson, the inventor, is from Canada. They have been around for many
years, but many people in the US have never heard of them. Including me
until a few years ago.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/