Where to find S4S Hardwoods?

I'm a little confused by your post. Doesn't S2S normally mean that the
two flat surfaces are planed smooth (relatively, anyway), and the edges
are left rough? If that's the case, then just cut the rough edge off in
your table saw. I don't understand why you need smooth edges if you're
gonna cut to width anyway.

--Steve

[email protected] wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am planning a one-time project that will use Spanish Cedar, which so
> far I can only obtain rough-cut, or S2S for an additional 15 cents/bf.
> FWIW, the raw stock available is 4/4 in widths 6 - 8" and 10 - 12 foot
> lenghts. The finished dimensions of the pieces I'll need are:
>
> widths of 2 - 4"
> thickness around 7/8"
> lengths of 12 - 24"
>
> I rarely work with hardwoods, and since this is a one time project, I
> don't want to buy a jointer/planer, and even if I did, I'm not skilled
> in the use of these tools.
>
> Ideally, I would like to simply buy S4S. I have some flexibility in the
> thickness, and I have a table saw so ripping to the correct width is
> not a problem. The problem is finding a source, preferably local
> (Dallas area) but I'm willing to go online. Everything I've found so
> far is S2S. Surely I'm not the first person in this situation. What
> does everyone do?
>
> My best idea so far is to get the S2S stock, and joint it (is that the
> correct term ?) on the table saw or radial arm saw using the long fence
> set-up that has previously been discussed here.
> Any other ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>

Steve wrote:
> I'm a little confused by your post. Doesn't S2S normally mean that
the
> two flat surfaces are planed smooth (relatively, anyway), and the
edges
> are left rough? If that's the case, then just cut the rough edge off
in
> your table saw. I don't understand why you need smooth edges if
you're
> gonna cut to width anyway.
>

Yes, that's my understanding of S2S. It's also my understanding from
reading some old threads here that the rough edges may not be straight
enough to give you good results when placed against the table saw
fence. If the rough cut board is curved, then the table saw will
duplicate the curve on the now smooth side. You have to use one of
those "board straigntener" jigs or a fence extension that is as long as
the board in question.

I guess it depends on how "rough" the edge is.

Anyway, I have found another hardwood store in Dallas that will sell
S2S as described, so I'm on my way.

Tom

Since you are near Dallas, You might try Curly Woods in Mckinney.
Last month I saw he had some Spanish Cedar S2S (surfaced 2 sides which
is S2S)-- The store is located just South of 380 on Tennesee st. He
is listed on the web. Do a Google on Curly woods. Also, he has a
jointer so I imagine he would joint one edge for you for a nominal
price. Another method would be to tack a straight board to one side &
cut the other on the TS.
PH

<[email protected]> wrote in message
> The problem is finding a source, preferably local
> (Dallas area) but I'm willing to go online. Everything I've found so
> far is S2S. Surely I'm not the first person in this situation. What
> does everyone do?

Have you asked? I buy hardwood or specialty wood from three suppliers, and
every one of them will make exactly what I want. Some include planing in
the price, others charge extra.

Steve wrote:

> I'm a little confused by your post. Doesn't S2S normally mean that the
> two flat surfaces are planed smooth (relatively, anyway), and the edges
> are left rough? If that's the case, then just cut the rough edge off in
> your table saw. I don't understand why you need smooth edges if you're
> gonna cut to width anyway.
>
> --Steve

It really depends on the lumber yard. S2S stands for "surfaced two sides".
At the place I purchase my lumber S2S means one face and one edge is
jointed. I've dealt with other dealers where S2S one face is jointed and
then the board is planed to thickness.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Ron wrote in news:[email protected]:

> The local BORGs sell ROak and Poplar S4S.
>
> It look's nice but, it's way overpriced, big surprise huh?
>
> S3S (both sides and one edge) may be easier to find and work just
> as well, since it most cases you'll need to cut to the needed width,
> anyways.
>
> The local Rockler usually has S3S ROak for $3.00/bf, maple was $4.00,
> Poplar was also around $3.00 (or a bit less).
>
> I've also purchased wood online and for a bit extra they'll usually joint
> one or
> both edges.
>
> HTH
>
> Ron
>
>

I was at the Woodcraft in Austin today and started to buy a 4/4 White
Oak board for a small case I am building and they wanted $7.50/bf for it. I
nearly fell over. I went to another place in town (Fine Lumber & Plywood
Inc.) and found some really nice Quarter Sawn White Oak for $4.94/bf.

--
Michael Burton
Thunderbird Hardwoods
Llano, TX

mhburton at tbird-hardwoods dot com

The local BORGs sell ROak and Poplar S4S.

It look's nice but, it's way overpriced, big surprise huh?

S3S (both sides and one edge) may be easier to find and work just
as well, since it most cases you'll need to cut to the needed width,
anyways.

The local Rockler usually has S3S ROak for $3.00/bf, maple was $4.00,
Poplar was also around $3.00 (or a bit less).

I've also purchased wood online and for a bit extra they'll usually joint
one or
both edges.

HTH

Ron