Dust collection/Cyclone lid

igor wrote:
> BTW, one other thing that you may know already: Did you get sale prices on
> all the stuff you ordered? At the PS website if you go through the
> "standard" links to the items you ordered the sale prices are not shown.
> To see/get the sale prices you apparently have to get to the items via the
> "web specials" link. For example, the price of the boom TS guard is $200,
> but if you get to the item via the web specials page the price is currently
> $150. The sale links are also the ones that come in the e-mail if you are
> on the PS e-mail list. Again, you may know this but I thought it was worth
> a mention. -- Igor


Yep... I figured that out before I clicked on "order". At least one thing went
right today.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com

Thanks Bob I had figured the bag would get sucked into the hoses and never
tried it. I'll give that a try it would definitely save some strain on the
back.

Rick



"Robert Galloway" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I line the trash can with a plastic bag. I was afraid it would get
> sucked up into the DC. Doesn't happen. I have a steel band with a
> spring loaded clamp around the side of the trash can which is galvanized
> in my case. Plastic might give a better seal, I don't know. But the
> bag stays down in the can and fills like you would want. You do want to
> empty before it's too full or everything will pass right on through.
>
> bob g.
>
> RKG wrote:
>
> > I've got one on my system and it works reasonably well as long as the
trash
> > can is less than 3/4 full after that a lot of the shavings etc get
carried
> > over to the dust collector bag. Get a large plastic trash can you will
get
> > a better seal between the lid and the can, the less air you have being
> > sucked around the lid the more efficient it will work. You still need
to
> > dump the trash can into a bag for disposal which is a bit of a pain.
> >
> > Before I got the lid the grate at the inlet to the impeller on the dust
> > collector was constantly getting plugged when I used the planer or
jointer,
> > This doesn't happen any more.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > "Keith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>Like most other people I'm continually trying to find ways to improve
the
> >>dust situation in my small shop. Right now I have a King dust collector
> >>installed with 4" piping to the tools that does a pretty good job
(similar
> >>to Delta/jet etc.). In their catalog, Lee Valley lists cyclone lids
that
> >>fit trash cans and from what they say I'm thinking it's an easier way to
> >>"take out the garbage" plus I wouldn't have to empty/clean the collector

> >>dust bags as often and it would mean an even more efficient system. On
> >
> > the
> >
> >>negative side it might mean more demand on the air suction to the
> >
> > collector.
> >
> >>Here's what they say:
> >>
> >>"Capacity is a problem in every dust collection system, but particularly
> >
> > in
> >
> >>small shop systems. This cyclone lid will let you sidetrack up to 99% of
> >>jointer/planer shavings and lesser amounts of fine dust (such as from
> >>sanding) to a barrel or trashcan. It lets you convert a standard shop
> >
> > vacuum
> >
> >>into a high-capacity dust collector. In fact, if your shop vacuum draws
6
> >>amps or more, you can use it with our dust collection network to power a
> >>complete collection system. If you have a lower-powered vacuum (less
than
> >
> > 6
> >
> >>amps), you can still use it with the cyclone on a single machine, such
as
> >
> > a
> >
> >>planer."
> >>
> >>I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone
and
> >>the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what
do
> >>you think ??
> >>
> >>Keith P
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>

I made my lid for about $20 using the plans below. The trash can lid
sold is moulded from and may have some problems sealing around the lip
or where the hoses go in, By using 3/4" partical board, your lid will
sit and you can use hose connections through the top that you can seal.

If you have any questions, you can e-mail me at

[email protected]

--
Woody


Check out my Web Page at:

http://community-1.webtv.net/WoodworkerJoe/WoodworkerJoesInfo

Where you will find:

******** How My Shop Works ******** 5-21-03

* * * Build a $20 DC Separator Can Lid. 1-14-03
* * * DC Relay Box Building Plans. 1-14-03
* * * The Bad Air Your Breath Everyday.1-14-03
* * * What is a Real Woodworker? 2-8-03
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Definitions. 2-8-03
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Laws. 4-6-03
* * * What is the true meaning of life? 1-14-03
* * * Woodworker Shop Signs. 2-8-03

Lid says Woodstock International WI049

Maybe my plastic bag is just waiting its chance. :-)

bob g.

igor wrote:

> bob -- I tried a plastic bag w/ my grizzly lid over a 30 gal metal trash
> can and the bag DID get sucked into the lid. I have an idea for a solution
> but have not tried it yet. Whose/what brand cyclone lid do you have? --
> Igor
>
>
>
> On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:52:20 -0500, Robert Galloway <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I line the trash can with a plastic bag. I was afraid it would get
>>sucked up into the DC. Doesn't happen. I have a steel band with a
>>spring loaded clamp around the side of the trash can which is galvanized
>>in my case. Plastic might give a better seal, I don't know. But the
>>bag stays down in the can and fills like you would want. You do want to
>>empty before it's too full or everything will pass right on through.
>>
>>bob g.
>>
>
>

Lid says Woodstock International WI049

Maybe my plastic bag is just waiting its chance. :-)

bob g.

igor wrote:

> bob -- I tried a plastic bag w/ my grizzly lid over a 30 gal metal trash
> can and the bag DID get sucked into the lid. I have an idea for a solution
> but have not tried it yet. Whose/what brand cyclone lid do you have? --
> Igor
>
>
>
> On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:52:20 -0500, Robert Galloway <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I line the trash can with a plastic bag. I was afraid it would get
>>sucked up into the DC. Doesn't happen. I have a steel band with a
>>spring loaded clamp around the side of the trash can which is galvanized
>>in my case. Plastic might give a better seal, I don't know. But the
>>bag stays down in the can and fills like you would want. You do want to
>>empty before it's too full or everything will pass right on through.
>>
>>bob g.
>>
>
>

Thanks All !! For all the input...Looks like I'll go with it, incorporating
some of the suggestions.

In response to the various answers:

1) The $47 I quoted was in Canadian $ = 35 US$

2) Lee Valley suggest:
"Our large cyclone lids were designed to fit on any round container with a
top diameter between 19" and 23-1/2". The registration ledges on the inside
of the lid fit on standard trashcans from 19" to 20-1/2" in diameter. The
23-1/2" dia. outer ledge fits on 45- to 55-gallon drums. Available in either
black ABS or clear PET, large lids come drilled for use with either 2-1/2"
or 4" dia. hose."
"Since we first introduced our cyclone lid, we found that many of our
customers use the cyclone lid specifically with a shop vacuum and a
Rubbermaid® Roughneck® trashcan and didn't require the larger size for use
with larger dust collection systems. This new smaller lid will closely fit
on 20-gallon trashcans (Rubbermaid model # 2892 in USA and # 2882 in
Canada). At 19-1/2" in diameter, it is more compact and has less overhang
than our large lid. This lid will also fit on commonly available steel
trashcans with a 16-1/2" to 17" top diameter. Available only in clear PET
for use with 2-1/2" dia. hose."

3) The Kind model I have has enough air to handle a cyclone "container"
between the machinery and King collector.

4) I LIKE the idea of having the chip collection before the dust collector
and with the clear lid it would be simple to keep an eye on the material
level.

Keith P

On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 16:19:41 GMT, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>igor wrote:
>> Now that I read your post again, not sure if the overhead guard is all you
>> bought from PS or if you got everything there. -- Igor
>
>
>1) I'm a nurse; not a doctor. I save taxes that way. <G>

So I've heard.

>2) Now you tell me.

Well, I think they do have a decent return policy! Anyway, be sure to run
the boom through its paces early on. (Sometimes the stuff I buy sits and I
then have to hope there is no problem because the warranty has lapsed by
the time I actually use the thing.) And, if you have good news about it to
report, I may well spring for one. You can be "Mikey" in the Life cereal
ad.

>3) Yep... bought it all from Penn State. I guess I'll just have to see how it
>goes.

As I indicated, my experience with their support people is good - of
course, I would prefer not to know this. And, with a bit of luck, you
won't have to find out. -- Igor.

Nick Bozovich wrote:
> Thanks Morris -
> I'm about 90% sure I'm going to get the HF. Can't beat the price!! I've
> been using my shop vac, which really "sucks", but it's still a 2 1/2" hose,
> and it doesn't work to well with my jointer that has a 4" port, even with a
> reducer fitting. I think going 4" to 4" will improve things. I have the
> clear cyclone lid on a 40 gal trash can, and it works good, but the airflow
> is reduced off the shop vac (I'll have to get a new one for the 4" fitting).
> Having a bigger unit like the HF dust collector will probably help that too.


Yesterday's discussion finally got me off the dime: I ordered a 1.5 HP DC2V2
dust collector along with a cyclone lid, muffler, various fittings, etc.; even a
table saw overhead guard from Penn State Industries. Now all I have to do is
pay for it.

Film at 11....



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com

Added the trash can lid years ago. Doesn't reduce the capacity of the
system that I can tell and definitely makes disposal a lot nicer. Only
have to empty/clean the bags once in a blue moon.

bob g.
(I also added the 0.5 micron bags. Wife is convinced it puts a lot less
dust into the house.)

Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:

> Keith wrote:
>
>>I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone and
>>the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what do
>>you think ??
>
>
>
> I'm a little confused by your plan. My understanding of the usual setup is that
> people put one of these cyclone lids / trashcans between their dust collector
> and their sawdust producing tool. Aside from allowing an easier way to dump
> most of your waste, it protects your collector's impellor by snatching the chips
> before they hit the impellor's blades. Only the finest of dust makes it to your
> dust collector itself; the bulk of the sawdust ends up in the trashcan.
>
> I'm actually seriously considering doing this myself. There are several deals
> around for less than $300 that will provide between 1150-1500 cfm, a 1 micron
> bag, and wired for either 110 or 220. Right now I'm trying to decide if I want
> to bite the bullet and get an electrician to add more 220 service to the garage.
>
>
>

Keith wrote:
> I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone and
> the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what do
> you think ??


I'm a little confused by your plan. My understanding of the usual setup is that
people put one of these cyclone lids / trashcans between their dust collector
and their sawdust producing tool. Aside from allowing an easier way to dump
most of your waste, it protects your collector's impellor by snatching the chips
before they hit the impellor's blades. Only the finest of dust makes it to your
dust collector itself; the bulk of the sawdust ends up in the trashcan.

I'm actually seriously considering doing this myself. There are several deals
around for less than $300 that will provide between 1150-1500 cfm, a 1 micron
bag, and wired for either 110 or 220. Right now I'm trying to decide if I want
to bite the bullet and get an electrician to add more 220 service to the garage.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com

I've got one on my system and it works reasonably well as long as the trash
can is less than 3/4 full after that a lot of the shavings etc get carried
over to the dust collector bag. Get a large plastic trash can you will get
a better seal between the lid and the can, the less air you have being
sucked around the lid the more efficient it will work. You still need to
dump the trash can into a bag for disposal which is a bit of a pain.

Before I got the lid the grate at the inlet to the impeller on the dust
collector was constantly getting plugged when I used the planer or jointer,
This doesn't happen any more.

Rick


"Keith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Like most other people I'm continually trying to find ways to improve the
> dust situation in my small shop. Right now I have a King dust collector
> installed with 4" piping to the tools that does a pretty good job (similar
> to Delta/jet etc.). In their catalog, Lee Valley lists cyclone lids that
> fit trash cans and from what they say I'm thinking it's an easier way to
> "take out the garbage" plus I wouldn't have to empty/clean the collector
> dust bags as often and it would mean an even more efficient system. On
the
> negative side it might mean more demand on the air suction to the
collector.
> Here's what they say:
>
> "Capacity is a problem in every dust collection system, but particularly
in
> small shop systems. This cyclone lid will let you sidetrack up to 99% of
> jointer/planer shavings and lesser amounts of fine dust (such as from
> sanding) to a barrel or trashcan. It lets you convert a standard shop
vacuum
> into a high-capacity dust collector. In fact, if your shop vacuum draws 6
> amps or more, you can use it with our dust collection network to power a
> complete collection system. If you have a lower-powered vacuum (less than
6
> amps), you can still use it with the cyclone on a single machine, such as
a
> planer."
>
> I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone and
> the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what do
> you think ??
>
> Keith P
>

One item to add that I haven't seen in this thread.

I use the cyclone pre-separator lid and love it, no plastic bag and have
only had to empty the dust collector bags once every 9-12 months.

However, when I put the bags back on, I use a 20" bicycle tire slit
lengthwise on the flange (underneath both the bag and clamp. Virtually
eliminates any dust leaks there, and all for a couple of bucks!

Joe C.


"Keith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Like most other people I'm continually trying to find ways to improve the
> dust situation in my small shop. Right now I have a King dust collector
> installed with 4" piping to the tools that does a pretty good job (similar
> to Delta/jet etc.). In their catalog, Lee Valley lists cyclone lids that
> fit trash cans and from what they say I'm thinking it's an easier way to
> "take out the garbage" plus I wouldn't have to empty/clean the collector
> dust bags as often and it would mean an even more efficient system. On
the
> negative side it might mean more demand on the air suction to the
collector.
> Here's what they say:
>
> "Capacity is a problem in every dust collection system, but particularly
in
> small shop systems. This cyclone lid will let you sidetrack up to 99% of
> jointer/planer shavings and lesser amounts of fine dust (such as from
> sanding) to a barrel or trashcan. It lets you convert a standard shop
vacuum
> into a high-capacity dust collector. In fact, if your shop vacuum draws 6
> amps or more, you can use it with our dust collection network to power a
> complete collection system. If you have a lower-powered vacuum (less than
6
> amps), you can still use it with the cyclone on a single machine, such as
a
> planer."
>
> I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone and
> the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what do
> you think ??
>
> Keith P
>

I line the trash can with a plastic bag. I was afraid it would get
sucked up into the DC. Doesn't happen. I have a steel band with a
spring loaded clamp around the side of the trash can which is galvanized
in my case. Plastic might give a better seal, I don't know. But the
bag stays down in the can and fills like you would want. You do want to
empty before it's too full or everything will pass right on through.

bob g.

RKG wrote:

> I've got one on my system and it works reasonably well as long as the trash
> can is less than 3/4 full after that a lot of the shavings etc get carried
> over to the dust collector bag. Get a large plastic trash can you will get
> a better seal between the lid and the can, the less air you have being
> sucked around the lid the more efficient it will work. You still need to
> dump the trash can into a bag for disposal which is a bit of a pain.
>
> Before I got the lid the grate at the inlet to the impeller on the dust
> collector was constantly getting plugged when I used the planer or jointer,
> This doesn't happen any more.
>
> Rick
>
>
> "Keith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Like most other people I'm continually trying to find ways to improve the
>>dust situation in my small shop. Right now I have a King dust collector
>>installed with 4" piping to the tools that does a pretty good job (similar
>>to Delta/jet etc.). In their catalog, Lee Valley lists cyclone lids that
>>fit trash cans and from what they say I'm thinking it's an easier way to
>>"take out the garbage" plus I wouldn't have to empty/clean the collector
>>dust bags as often and it would mean an even more efficient system. On
>
> the
>
>>negative side it might mean more demand on the air suction to the
>
> collector.
>
>>Here's what they say:
>>
>>"Capacity is a problem in every dust collection system, but particularly
>
> in
>
>>small shop systems. This cyclone lid will let you sidetrack up to 99% of
>>jointer/planer shavings and lesser amounts of fine dust (such as from
>>sanding) to a barrel or trashcan. It lets you convert a standard shop
>
> vacuum
>
>>into a high-capacity dust collector. In fact, if your shop vacuum draws 6
>>amps or more, you can use it with our dust collection network to power a
>>complete collection system. If you have a lower-powered vacuum (less than
>
> 6
>
>>amps), you can still use it with the cyclone on a single machine, such as
>
> a
>
>>planer."
>>
>>I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone and
>>the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what do
>>you think ??
>>
>>Keith P
>>
>
>
>

Morris -
How's that HF dust collector working for you? I heard good things about it
from other posts. I'm targeting that for my next tool purchase. Is it
quiet? Does it have good suction /volume?

Thanks -

Nick B


"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Keith wrote:
>
>> I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone and
>> the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what do
>> you think ??
>
> Keith...
>
> I have a pair of the large cyclone lids (you can see the setup on my web
> site at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dust_collection.html) and it works
> quite well. I haven't needed to empty the DC bag since installation. (-:
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto, Iowa USA
>

"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Yes, they do work. Yes, they do reduce the air flow. If you consider
> your current air flow marginal, then you don't want one. If you think
> you have good flow now, then you probably will be okay.
>
> Before you buy one, take a look at what I did here:
> http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop/cyclone.html
>
> I no longer have to transfer the chips to a curbside container. I
> just roll it out to the curb.
>
<snip>

Bill, that's pretty clever. You say you have a second bin, for the wife to
fill with rose trimmings?

Patriarch

"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

<snip>
>
> But no, you won't find my wife in the rose garden, or any garden for
> that matter. Too much risk of getting dirty. Anyway, roses come from
> the florist, right?

I guess they do at your house. You sound like a wise man...

Patriarch,
who helps his wife with the rose garden she was never promised....

Thanks Morris -
I'm about 90% sure I'm going to get the HF. Can't beat the price!! I've
been using my shop vac, which really "sucks", but it's still a 2 1/2" hose,
and it doesn't work to well with my jointer that has a 4" port, even with a
reducer fitting. I think going 4" to 4" will improve things. I have the
clear cyclone lid on a 40 gal trash can, and it works good, but the airflow
is reduced off the shop vac (I'll have to get a new one for the 4" fitting).
Having a bigger unit like the HF dust collector will probably help that too.

Thanks again for your input!!

Nick B


"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Nick Bozovich wrote:
>
>> How's that HF dust collector working for you? I heard good
>> things about it from other posts. I'm targeting that for my
>> next tool purchase. Is it quiet? Does it have good suction
>> /volume?
>
> Nick...
>
> It's my first and only dust collector - so I don't have much I can compare
> it to. It's definitely more quiet than my ShopVac. Its sole job is to eat
> the dust from a (really quiet) 5hp router usually running between 90 and
> 150 inches/minute (depending on bit, depth of cut, and material). I did a
> 3-1/2 hour continuous cutting job on a single piece of MDF a while back
> with the shop all closed up - and there wasn't even a detectable haze. I
> doubt that's exceptional behavior; but I've been happy with the
> performance
>
> One of the things I like most about my cobbled-up system is that *nothing*
> gets as far as the dust collector - it all ends up in the drums. FWIW, I
> empty the drums as soon as there's ten gallons or so of dust inside. I
> understand that the fuller they're allowed to become, the more dust will
> flow through to the DC.
>
> I splurged to get the transparent cyclone lids and found that makes it a
> lot easier for a lazy person like myself to check the drums. For me, the
> clear tops have been worth the extra cost. B'sides, it's fun to watch 'em
> in action. (-8
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto, Iowa USA
>

"Keith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Like most other people I'm continually trying to find ways to improve the
> dust situation in my small shop. Right now I have a King dust collector
> installed with 4" piping to the tools that does a pretty good job (similar
> to Delta/jet etc.). In their catalog, Lee Valley lists cyclone lids that
> fit trash cans and from what they say I'm thinking it's an easier way to
> "take out the garbage" plus I wouldn't have to empty/clean the collector
> dust bags as often and it would mean an even more efficient system. On
the
> negative side it might mean more demand on the air suction to the
collector.
> Here's what they say:
>
> "Capacity is a problem in every dust collection system, but particularly
in
> small shop systems. This cyclone lid will let you sidetrack up to 99% of
> jointer/planer shavings and lesser amounts of fine dust (such as from
> sanding) to a barrel or trashcan. It lets you convert a standard shop
vacuum
> into a high-capacity dust collector. In fact, if your shop vacuum draws 6
> amps or more, you can use it with our dust collection network to power a
> complete collection system. If you have a lower-powered vacuum (less than
6
> amps), you can still use it with the cyclone on a single machine, such as
a
> planer."
>
> I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone and
> the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what do
> you think ??

Absolutely! My sh^H^H^cellar is so small I still use the flex line to hook
to the planer, jointer & bandsaw, but right in front of the 1HP Grizzly
G8027 is a G3376(see pg. 129 in catalog). Makes a HUGE difference when
jointing or planing, but you need to sort of keep an eye on it, because when
the trash can gets about 2/3 full, it doesn't collect the stuff, just lets
it pass through to the collector bags.

I have not noticed any decreased air flow with the separator lid. Don't
remember if it has a foam gasket or not, but it seats on top of the metal
garbage can very well. I did find it better to seal around the tubing with
duct tape, it served a dual purpose; made them air-tight, and kept them in
place in the lid.

--
Nahmie
The law of intelligent tinkering: save all the parts.

Tried it and the bag immediately got sucked into the hose. Also tried the
weatherstripping that Igor mentioned and it seems to have improved the
suction. Oh well one suggestion worked for me and one didn't, still
ahead..

Rick

"Robert Galloway" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I line the trash can with a plastic bag. I was afraid it would get
> sucked up into the DC. Doesn't happen. I have a steel band with a
> spring loaded clamp around the side of the trash can which is galvanized
> in my case. Plastic might give a better seal, I don't know. But the
> bag stays down in the can and fills like you would want. You do want to
> empty before it's too full or everything will pass right on through.
>
> bob g.
>
> RKG wrote:
>
> > I've got one on my system and it works reasonably well as long as the
trash
> > can is less than 3/4 full after that a lot of the shavings etc get
carried
> > over to the dust collector bag. Get a large plastic trash can you will
get
> > a better seal between the lid and the can, the less air you have being
> > sucked around the lid the more efficient it will work. You still need
to
> > dump the trash can into a bag for disposal which is a bit of a pain.
> >
> > Before I got the lid the grate at the inlet to the impeller on the dust
> > collector was constantly getting plugged when I used the planer or
jointer,
> > This doesn't happen any more.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > "Keith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>Like most other people I'm continually trying to find ways to improve
the
> >>dust situation in my small shop. Right now I have a King dust collector
> >>installed with 4" piping to the tools that does a pretty good job
(similar
> >>to Delta/jet etc.). In their catalog, Lee Valley lists cyclone lids
that
> >>fit trash cans and from what they say I'm thinking it's an easier way to
> >>"take out the garbage" plus I wouldn't have to empty/clean the collector
> >>dust bags as often and it would mean an even more efficient system. On
> >
> > the
> >
> >>negative side it might mean more demand on the air suction to the
> >
> > collector.
> >
> >>Here's what they say:
> >>
> >>"Capacity is a problem in every dust collection system, but particularly
> >
> > in
> >
> >>small shop systems. This cyclone lid will let you sidetrack up to 99% of
> >>jointer/planer shavings and lesser amounts of fine dust (such as from
> >>sanding) to a barrel or trashcan. It lets you convert a standard shop
> >
> > vacuum
> >
> >>into a high-capacity dust collector. In fact, if your shop vacuum draws
6
> >>amps or more, you can use it with our dust collection network to power a
> >>complete collection system. If you have a lower-powered vacuum (less
than
> >
> > 6
> >
> >>amps), you can still use it with the cyclone on a single machine, such
as
> >
> > a
> >
> >>planer."
> >>
> >>I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone
and
> >>the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what
do
> >>you think ??
> >>
> >>Keith P
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>

On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 16:19:41 GMT, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>igor wrote:
>> Now that I read your post again, not sure if the overhead guard is all you
>> bought from PS or if you got everything there. -- Igor
>
>
>1) I'm a nurse; not a doctor. I save taxes that way. <G>
>2) Now you tell me.
>3) Yep... bought it all from Penn State. I guess I'll just have to see how it
>goes.

BTW, one other thing that you may know already: Did you get sale prices on
all the stuff you ordered? At the PS website if you go through the
"standard" links to the items you ordered the sale prices are not shown.
To see/get the sale prices you apparently have to get to the items via the
"web specials" link. For example, the price of the boom TS guard is $200,
but if you get to the item via the web specials page the price is currently
$150. The sale links are also the ones that come in the e-mail if you are
on the PS e-mail list. Again, you may know this but I thought it was worth
a mention. -- Igor

On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 13:56:50 GMT, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Yesterday's discussion finally got me off the dime: I ordered a 1.5 HP DC2V2
>dust collector along with a cyclone lid, muffler, various fittings, etc.; even a
>table saw overhead guard from Penn State Industries. Now all I have to do is
>pay for it.
>
>Film at 11....

Dr. Schnerd -- Don't want to prematurely rain on your parade, but there was
at least one thread some time back with people expressing disappointment
with the overhead guard from PS. I recall this because I had really wanted
to buy one. I'd appreciate your posting here about your experience w/ it.

I bought a PS DC and it sucks. I also use the trash can w/ cyclone lid
(see comments above in this thread, if interested). I have had switch
problems. The first switch stopped working -- it would flip back and forth
but not "engage" - regardless of the insertion of the kid-safety part.
They replaced it, no problem. While that one works, the snap-in fitting
was broken when it arrived - on my to-do list to get a third switch.

Now that I read your post again, not sure if the overhead guard is all you
bought from PS or if you got everything there. -- Igor

bob -- I tried a plastic bag w/ my grizzly lid over a 30 gal metal trash
can and the bag DID get sucked into the lid. I have an idea for a solution
but have not tried it yet. Whose/what brand cyclone lid do you have? --
Igor



On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:52:20 -0500, Robert Galloway <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I line the trash can with a plastic bag. I was afraid it would get
>sucked up into the DC. Doesn't happen. I have a steel band with a
>spring loaded clamp around the side of the trash can which is galvanized
>in my case. Plastic might give a better seal, I don't know. But the
>bag stays down in the can and fills like you would want. You do want to
>empty before it's too full or everything will pass right on through.
>
>bob g.
>

Nick Bozovich wrote:

> How's that HF dust collector working for you? I heard good
> things about it from other posts. I'm targeting that for my
> next tool purchase. Is it quiet? Does it have good suction
> /volume?

Nick...

It's my first and only dust collector - so I don't have much I
can compare it to. It's definitely more quiet than my ShopVac.
Its sole job is to eat the dust from a (really quiet) 5hp router
usually running between 90 and 150 inches/minute (depending on
bit, depth of cut, and material). I did a 3-1/2 hour continuous
cutting job on a single piece of MDF a while back with the shop
all closed up - and there wasn't even a detectable haze. I doubt
that's exceptional behavior; but I've been happy with the performance

One of the things I like most about my cobbled-up system is that
*nothing* gets as far as the dust collector - it all ends up in
the drums. FWIW, I empty the drums as soon as there's ten gallons
or so of dust inside. I understand that the fuller they're
allowed to become, the more dust will flow through to the DC.

I splurged to get the transparent cyclone lids and found that
makes it a lot easier for a lazy person like myself to check the
drums. For me, the clear tops have been worth the extra cost.
B'sides, it's fun to watch 'em in action. (-8

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

Yes, they do work. Yes, they do reduce the air flow. If you consider your
current air flow marginal, then you don't want one. If you think you have
good flow now, then you probably will be okay.

Before you buy one, take a look at what I did here:
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop/cyclone.html

I no longer have to transfer the chips to a curbside container. I just roll
it out to the curb.

--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com


"Keith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Like most other people I'm continually trying to find ways to improve the
> dust situation in my small shop. Right now I have a King dust collector
> installed with 4" piping to the tools that does a pretty good job (similar
> to Delta/jet etc.). In their catalog, Lee Valley lists cyclone lids that
> fit trash cans and from what they say I'm thinking it's an easier way to
> "take out the garbage" plus I wouldn't have to empty/clean the collector
> dust bags as often and it would mean an even more efficient system. On
the
> negative side it might mean more demand on the air suction to the
collector.
> Here's what they say:
>
> "Capacity is a problem in every dust collection system, but particularly
in
> small shop systems. This cyclone lid will let you sidetrack up to 99% of
> jointer/planer shavings and lesser amounts of fine dust (such as from
> sanding) to a barrel or trashcan. It lets you convert a standard shop
vacuum
> into a high-capacity dust collector. In fact, if your shop vacuum draws 6
> amps or more, you can use it with our dust collection network to power a
> complete collection system. If you have a lower-powered vacuum (less than
6
> amps), you can still use it with the cyclone on a single machine, such as
a
> planer."
>
> I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone and
> the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what do
> you think ??
>
> Keith P
>

"Keith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Like most other people I'm continually trying to find ways to improve the
> dust situation in my small shop. Right now I have a King dust collector
> installed with 4" piping to the tools that does a pretty good job (similar
> to Delta/jet etc.). In their catalog, Lee Valley lists cyclone lids that
> fit trash cans and from what they say I'm thinking it's an easier way to
> "take out the garbage" plus I wouldn't have to empty/clean the collector
> dust bags as often and it would mean an even more efficient system. On
the
> negative side it might mean more demand on the air suction to the
collector.

[snip]

Keith,

You don't say which model you have? I have the 1 HP portable King DC, which
is a great little blower, but a pitiful DC. The biggest problem was the
crappy little bag they give you. It created so much back pressure that the
suction was zilch.

So I bought one of the replacement bags from Lee Valley and two Rubbermaid
garbage cans. The bag went on can #1 with the Lee Valley strap. I also
installed a 5" DC door removed) on can #1 with bolts a backing plate and
lots of silicon. I then took the stand off my 1 HP blower and mounted it to
an MDF plate (approx. 10") with a hole in the middle for the blower intake.
I mounted the blower to this plate with the bolts that held the blower to
the stand. I also routed a groove in this plate about 2" wide around the
intake hole, so that the blower made a nice flush fit. Again lots of
silicon. I then created a second plate out of MDF to sit on top of the
garbage can with a 4" (approx.) hole cut in the center. I then cut a routed
a groove in the face of this plate the same width/depth/size as the rim of
garbage can #2. Plate #1 with the blower attached get screwed to plate #2
with the 4" holes aligned of course. Then plate #2 just friction fits the
top of garbage can #2. I then used 3" PVC (white stuff) to make the input
for can #2. I can't remember what the outside piece was called (it fit my 4"
pipe outside and the elbow inside), but I used PVC glue to attach this to a
45 degree elbow inside garbage can #2. Again all siliconed up. The output of
the blower (sitting on top of G can #2) goes to the input of G Can #1 of
course.

This has been working great for a few months. The increase in suction was
phenomenal (better bag) and I'm now collecting up my chips. There's
virtually no dust escaping my TS now, whereas before I would be dusty the
snowman. I made a whack of dado cuts a few weeks ago and only a small amount
made it to the shop floor. The chip bucket collected about half a can of
oval shaped chips about a 1/4" long.

Keith wrote:

> I would use this with my current system between the trash can cyclone and
> the input to the collector...... Has anyone tried this and if so, what do
> you think ??

Keith...

I have a pair of the large cyclone lids (you can see the setup on
my web site at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dust_collection.html)
and it works quite well. I haven't needed to empty the DC bag
since installation. (-:

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

The city will give us up to 4 for free. I only have 3, 2 for the yard, 1
for chips. They really only want to charge extra for the waste containers.
And they are smaller too.

But no, you won't find my wife in the rose garden, or any garden for that
matter. Too much risk of getting dirty. Anyway, roses come from the
florist, right?

--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com


"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You say you have a second bin, for the wife to
> fill with rose trimmings?
>
> Patriarch

On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 09:21:33 -0400, "RKG"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I've got one on my system and it works reasonably well as long as the trash
>can is less than 3/4 full after that a lot of the shavings etc get carried
>over to the dust collector bag. Get a large plastic trash can you will get
>a better seal between the lid and the can, the less air you have being
>sucked around the lid the more efficient it will work. You still need to
>dump the trash can into a bag for disposal which is a bit of a pain.
>

I could not find a plastic can that was the right size so I ended up with a
traditional metal can. I did buy some basic rubber weather stripping w/
the adhesive backing and put that around the inside if the lid where it
meets the can. That makes a great seal - so good that I wait for the DC to
spin down before pulling off the top to check the contents.

I got mine from Grizzly for 2/3 the Lee Valley price -- $30 vs. $47 -- and
now Grizzly has its on sale for less than 1/2 the LV price - $20:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G3376

Even so, if I had it to do over again I might spring for the extra $$ for
the clear lid that Lee Valley sells. Then again, I may eventually make one
so that I can get the chips to fall into one of those stiff paper leaf/line
bags -- the kind that stand on their own. -- Igor

igor wrote:
> Now that I read your post again, not sure if the overhead guard is all you
> bought from PS or if you got everything there. -- Igor


1) I'm a nurse; not a doctor. I save taxes that way. <G>
2) Now you tell me.
3) Yep... bought it all from Penn State. I guess I'll just have to see how it
goes.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com