kf

kodiakman

19/04/2005 7:51 AM

help with my first table

Novice woodworker here. SWMBO wanted a new table. The requirements: thick
(or thick-looking) table top, with large turned legs and an apron -- farm-
table style. The top is 5/4 walnut with 2" wide 5/4 breadboard ends (to
give the thicker appearance).

My question is how far should the table top overhang the legs/apron? Most
tables I have seen overhang about 1-2 inches. I'm worried that this size
overhang will show shadowing between the apron and breadboard ends, and I
(actually, she) wants it to look "traditional"

Any tips or advice?

Also, the apron and legs will be painted so I'm using pine for those.
Should I attach the top to the apron using the "figure-8" style clips to
allow for the different wood movement between the pine and walnut?

Thanks in advance


This topic has 10 replies

Sb

"SonomaProducts.com"

in reply to kodiakman on 19/04/2005 7:51 AM

19/04/2005 9:54 AM

Just an FYI but you "may" have some trouble where your thicking edges
are running in a different grain direction than the top boards. Sounds
like its to late to take care fo that now but if they seperate you can
use a different attachment method. Just glue the board near the center
and use screws at the outer edges with elongated holes in the piece
being attached.

Also, if your table top starts to warp at all along the top abve the
cross grain thickening boards it could be the tension from the boards
beneath.

One way to mitigate or lessen the problems would be to make sure you
add whatever finish you use to all sides evenly. It will help a lot of
you use a film finish and much less with an oil only finish.

Sounds like a nice project. You should post pictures.

LB

"Larry Bud"

in reply to kodiakman on 19/04/2005 7:51 AM

22/04/2005 5:11 AM


kodiakman wrote:
> Novice woodworker here. SWMBO wanted a new table. The requirements:
thick
> (or thick-looking) table top, with large turned legs and an apron --
farm-
> table style. The top is 5/4 walnut with 2" wide 5/4 breadboard ends
(to
> give the thicker appearance).
>
> My question is how far should the table top overhang the legs/apron?

Pick up the atest Fine Woodworking magazine, and they cover all
different table designs and dimensions.

Td

"Teamcasa"

in reply to kodiakman on 19/04/2005 7:51 AM

19/04/2005 7:56 AM


"kodiakman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Novice woodworker here. SWMBO wanted a new table. The requirements: thick
> (or thick-looking) table top, with large turned legs and an apron -- farm-
> table style. The top is 5/4 walnut with 2" wide 5/4 breadboard ends (to
> give the thicker appearance).
>
> My question is how far should the table top overhang the legs/apron? Most
> tables I have seen overhang about 1-2 inches. I'm worried that this size
> overhang will show shadowing between the apron and breadboard ends, and I
> (actually, she) wants it to look "traditional"
>
> Any tips or advice?
>
> Also, the apron and legs will be painted so I'm using pine for those.
> Should I attach the top to the apron using the "figure-8" style clips to
> allow for the different wood movement between the pine and walnut?
>
> Thanks in advance

The good Dr. Hannappel has good advice for the legs, beech is my choice for
legs as well.
As for the design, Fine Woodworking's newest edition has a good article in
table design. That said, I would set the apron back 3" or so.

Dave



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kf

kodiakman

in reply to kodiakman on 19/04/2005 7:51 AM

19/04/2005 9:49 AM

"Stephen M" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

snip
>
> Pine is soft it will take dings much more easily. Pine is also not the
> easiest thing to turn. It tends to tear out alot. That said, is you are
> paintingyou can youse filler to fix tearout. Dings may not be an issue
> if you are going for a more rustic look.
>

I have no experience or equipment for turning, so I purchased pre-made legs
from osbornewood.com

snip
>
> The purpose of the clip is not because of diffent woods, it is required
> because of the different grain orientation. This is a very important
> concept to understand if you are about to build a table with breadboard
> ends. If you are unclear please ask.
>

Thanks for the advice on the clips. I have seen the examples of cutting a
kerf groove to use for attaching those clips, but I thought the figure-8
style would be easier.

I don't think I used the correct terminology. I guess I didn't do actual
"breadboard ends." After glue-up of the table top, I trimmed the edges with
2" wide bands (faces on vertical plane) to give the appearance of a thicker
top. The are mitered at the corners, attached with large finishing brads.

kf

kodiakman

in reply to kodiakman on 19/04/2005 7:51 AM

19/04/2005 10:17 AM

"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> The good Dr. Hannappel has good advice for the legs, beech is my choice
> for legs as well.
> As for the design, Fine Woodworking's newest edition has a good article
> in table design. That said, I would set the apron back 3" or so.

Thanks I'll pick up a copy of FWW

kf

kodiakman

in reply to kodiakman on 19/04/2005 7:51 AM

22/04/2005 5:59 AM

Thanks for all the advice so far.

The finish will be a stain followed by several coats of poly. Do I need to
finish the underside of the table top as well? If so, does it need the same
number of coats as the top?

SM

"Stephen M"

in reply to kodiakman on 19/04/2005 7:51 AM

19/04/2005 9:26 AM

> My question is how far should the table top overhang the legs/apron? Most
> tables I have seen overhang about 1-2 inches. I'm worried that this size
> overhang will show shadowing between the apron and breadboard ends, and I
> (actually, she) wants it to look "traditional"
>
> Any tips or advice?

Seach the internet for samples to get ideas. Measure as many similar tables
can get your hands on. Figure out what is "normal" and adjust to your liking
from there.

>
> Also, the apron and legs will be painted so I'm using pine for those.

Pine is soft it will take dings much more easily. Pine is also not the
easiest thing to turn. It tends to tear out alot. That said, is you are
paintingyou can youse filler to fix tearout. Dings may not be an issue if
you are going for a more rustic look.

> Should I attach the top to the apron using the "figure-8" style clips to
> allow for the different wood movement between the pine and walnut?

_____
Yes. or Lee Valley sells clip that looks like: ____/

Or you can make your own from wood the look like:

XXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXX


The purpose of the clip is not because of diffent woods, it is required
because of the different grain orientation. This is a very important concept
to understand if you are about to build a table with breadboard ends. If you
are unclear please ask.


-Steve

PB

"Peter Bogiatzidis"

in reply to kodiakman on 19/04/2005 7:51 AM

19/04/2005 10:26 PM

Kodiakman,

Try the following link:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea23sidebar2.html

Hope this helps.

Peter.

"kodiakman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Novice woodworker here. SWMBO wanted a new table. The requirements: thick
> (or thick-looking) table top, with large turned legs and an apron -- farm-
> table style. The top is 5/4 walnut with 2" wide 5/4 breadboard ends (to
> give the thicker appearance).
>
> My question is how far should the table top overhang the legs/apron? Most
> tables I have seen overhang about 1-2 inches. I'm worried that this size
> overhang will show shadowing between the apron and breadboard ends, and I
> (actually, she) wants it to look "traditional"
>
> Any tips or advice?
>
> Also, the apron and legs will be painted so I'm using pine for those.
> Should I attach the top to the apron using the "figure-8" style clips to
> allow for the different wood movement between the pine and walnut?
>
> Thanks in advance

Br

Ba r r y

in reply to kodiakman on 19/04/2005 7:51 AM

22/04/2005 11:19 AM

On Fri, 22 Apr 2005 05:59:21 -0500, kodiakman <[email protected]> wrote:

>The finish will be a stain followed by several coats of poly. Do I need to
>finish the underside of the table top as well? If so, does it need the same
>number of coats as the top?

I would.

This prevents one side of the top from changing due to environmental
influences at different rates than the other.

Finishing the bottom is easy, you don't have to get crazy about the
visual quality of it.

Barry

JH

Juergen Hannappel

in reply to kodiakman on 19/04/2005 7:51 AM

19/04/2005 3:52 PM

"Stephen M" <[email protected]> writes:


[...]

>> Also, the apron and legs will be painted so I'm using pine for those.
>
> Pine is soft it will take dings much more easily. Pine is also not the

... and if you have a cat that thinks the table legs are fine for
sharpening claws pine is a very bad choice, because it looks and feels
like a cactus after a short time. Beech is much better there!
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23


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