I have a slight gloat, but will keep it to just telling that I had
given [free] a whole pile of rough lumber; oak, cherry, walnut.
Looking for minimal waste. Some boards, just a few, are warped
[twisted]. Is there a way to untwist? I know warped can be
straightened with water on one side and heat on the other ["Furniture
doctor".] I can't see putting a warped, twisted board through a
thickness planer since it will want to wobble.
Some, like the oak have a bit of black water stain. I'm assuming that
can be removed with oxalic acid? How about black dry mold?
Thanks.
On Fri, 03 Dec 2004 16:54:54 -0500, Merle <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> Hot-melt is strong enough to hold again any mechanical twisting
>> through the planer? Or do you need shims to make stable on at least
>> three points? Anyhow, it sounds like a good approach with tweaks.
>> Thanks again.
>
>Yes, I got this tip a few months ago (maybe from Todd!) and it works
>great. I have a sled of 13x36 MDF that I glue the "high" corners to and
>take straight to the planer. The board is now stable on four points
>(two wood, and two glue). A few passes later, I pop the corner dobs of
>glue off with an old chisel and then do the other side. I use two
>spots of glue about the size of a nickel for a board up to 20" long,
>plus one in the middle for longer boards.
>
>This method has changed my life. I had a nice piece of figured cherry,
>and was able to salvage the twisted last 2 feet to be able to carry the
>grain around the top and side of a cabinet.
I know this should be another topic, but what the hey, it's about hot
glue. I use it to do the back of frames [mirror, or picture.] Not
the wood, but the brown paper cover. Lay a line of glue around
[near] the inner edge of the back. Let it dry. The paper is pre-cut
to size. Put one corner on the set glue and touch with your hot
flatiron. Stretch a bit to the next corner and tack that down also
using the iron. Complete the other corners. Now run the iron lightly
across the paper edge to melt the glue and adhere the paper to the
back.
"Guess who" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a slight gloat, but will keep it to just telling that I had
> given [free] a whole pile of rough lumber; oak, cherry, walnut.
>
> Looking for minimal waste. Some boards, just a few, are warped
> [twisted]. Is there a way to untwist? I know warped can be
> straightened with water on one side and heat on the other ["Furniture
> doctor".] I can't see putting a warped, twisted board through a
> thickness planer since it will want to wobble.
>
> Some, like the oak have a bit of black water stain. I'm assuming that
> can be removed with oxalic acid? How about black dry mold?
>
> Thanks.
IMO, the best way to deal with a warped board is a) cut it into small enough
pieces that you can minimize the amount of warp within a section to have
something you can work with or b) use it as firewood. The reason it is
warped in the first place is because due to stresses locked into the board,
the naturally sought that shape. Anything like putting water on it is only
going to (maybe) temporarily solve the problem. If you can get the pieces
small enough so they can be planed and still end up with something thick
enough to use, what I do is use a carrier board through my planer and use
hot-melt glue to stabilize the board as it goes through. Once one side is
flat, I take it off the carrier and plane the other side.
todd
In article <[email protected]>,
Guess who <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 23:40:34 -0600, "Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >If you can get the pieces
> >small enough so they can be planed and still end up with something thick
> >enough to use, what I do is use a carrier board through my planer and use
> >hot-melt glue to stabilize the board as it goes through. Once one side is
> >flat, I take it off the carrier and plane the other side.
>
> Good advice. Thanks, I'll try that.
>
> Hot-melt is strong enough to hold again any mechanical twisting
> through the planer? Or do you need shims to make stable on at least
> three points? Anyhow, it sounds like a good approach with tweaks.
> Thanks again.
Yes, I got this tip a few months ago (maybe from Todd!) and it works
great. I have a sled of 13x36 MDF that I glue the "high" corners to and
take straight to the planer. The board is now stable on four points
(two wood, and two glue). A few passes later, I pop the corner dobs of
glue off with an old chisel and then do the other side. I use two
spots of glue about the size of a nickel for a board up to 20" long,
plus one in the middle for longer boards.
This method has changed my life. I had a nice piece of figured cherry,
and was able to salvage the twisted last 2 feet to be able to carry the
grain around the top and side of a cabinet.
m
On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 23:53:00 -0500, Guess who
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a slight gloat, but will keep it to just telling that I had
>given [free] a whole pile of rough lumber; oak, cherry, walnut.
you suck.
>
>Looking for minimal waste. Some boards, just a few, are warped
>[twisted]. Is there a way to untwist?
basically no. what you'll need to do to use them is cut them to
lengths that you can plane flat without losing too much thickness.
> I know warped can be
>straightened with water on one side and heat on the other ["Furniture
>doctor".]
yeah, right.....
> I can't see putting a warped, twisted board through a
>thickness planer since it will want to wobble.
start with a scrub plane, or possibly one of them electrical hand
planes. take off only enough that it doesn't wobble anymore. then run
it through the thicknesser.
>
>Some, like the oak have a bit of black water stain. I'm assuming that
>can be removed with oxalic acid? How about black dry mold?
oxalic, muriatic, chlorine bleach... try them... (no mixing!)
a lot of it may go away with planing.
>
>Thanks.
On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 11:50:33 -0500, "Stephen M"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Some, like the oak have a bit of black water stain. I'm assuming that
>> can be removed with oxalic acid? How about black dry mold?
>
>I see this alot in the rough oak that I have purchased. It's pretty shallow.
>It will go away with planing.
Thanks to all! I'll take and apply all advice. Plane first to see
what's left. Oxalic etc if needed, small pieces first to see what
happens. ...
On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 23:40:34 -0600, "Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>If you can get the pieces
>small enough so they can be planed and still end up with something thick
>enough to use, what I do is use a carrier board through my planer and use
>hot-melt glue to stabilize the board as it goes through. Once one side is
>flat, I take it off the carrier and plane the other side.
Good advice. Thanks, I'll try that.
Hot-melt is strong enough to hold again any mechanical twisting
through the planer? Or do you need shims to make stable on at least
three points? Anyhow, it sounds like a good approach with tweaks.
Thanks again.
A long-bed joiner will remove warp. A surface planer will just follow
the warp. Easiest way to remove stain and mold is with a planer.
On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 23:53:00 -0500, Guess who
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a slight gloat, but will keep it to just telling that I had
>given [free] a whole pile of rough lumber; oak, cherry, walnut.
>
>Looking for minimal waste. Some boards, just a few, are warped
>[twisted]. Is there a way to untwist? I know warped can be
>straightened with water on one side and heat on the other ["Furniture
>doctor".] I can't see putting a warped, twisted board through a
>thickness planer since it will want to wobble.
>
>Some, like the oak have a bit of black water stain. I'm assuming that
>can be removed with oxalic acid? How about black dry mold?
>
>Thanks.