x-no-archive:yes
Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
(Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
flooring company.
Its gonna take 3 machines, unless you want to square lumber by traditional
means, which is fine by me, but someone once told me that if one of the
woodworkers from 100 or 200 years ago had access to power tools.........they
would have jumped on them fast. I tend to agree. Not to put down the purists
out there, but power tools usually make more sense, especially for mundane
tasks such as squaring lumber.
Running board on their edge through a planner? If anyone runs a board (rough
or S4S for that matter) on its edge through a planner..........anywhere near
me....I'm gonna take a few steps back, like about 50.
Using a sled to joint on a planer.......sounds a lot better than it works.
The bottom line is this: if you want your projects to fit and look great you
have to start with damn near perfectly squared lumber on 4 sides.
The only way you are going to convert rough lumber or S2S etc to perfect
square with "power tools" is by using 3 different tools. A jointer, a
planner, and a table saw.
A jointer first; you flatten one face of the board. A planner second; you
run the board you just flattened on one side through the planner with the
face you flatttened on the jointer down. When you are done flattening the
second face in the planner, its back to the jointer to square one edge. When
that is done you run the squared edge against the fence on a table saw and
rip cut the final edge square.
That's the way you square lumber accurately. There really isn't a cheap way
out that delivers excellent results.
If cash is short, you're better off buying fun (less expensive) tools like a
router first and purchasing your hardwoods from a lumber store that will
square the wood for you (at a cost of course). At least then you will have
sqaured stock to begin with and your projects will turn out better.
You can set yourself up for failure by using stock that isn't square. Its
easy for someone starting out to think they just aren't any good at this
stuff because they're working with stock that isn't square to begin with.
The projects they create don't measure up to what they hoped for. They're
liable to think they just don't have the knack when it has nothing to do
with their abilities....sadly they may give up the hobby as a result.
Its like a guy who buys a cheap guitar with terrible action and gives up
because it's too hard to play & learn.....when all the time the cheap guitar
is to blame. Had he started out with a decent instrument, it wouldn't have
been so hard to play.
Don't set yourself up for failure........use square lumber........if you
don't have the funds to buy a table saw and the more boring and expensive
tools (IE jointer & planner) right now.... purchase lumber that is square
and start saving your pennies for these three tools. What order should you
buy them? I think everyone would agree table saw first, then you'd get some
differences of opionion as to what to buy second and third. I'd buy the
planer second and start using prepared S2S lumber instead of S4S which would
be a little cheaper and then I'd have more pennies to stock away to buy the
jointer last.
My $ 0.02,
RRRangerPaul
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
> and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
> (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
> cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
> flooring company.
>
Fri, Feb 17, 2006, 10:40pm (EST-1) [email protected]
(Ranger=A0Paul)
<snip> Using a sled to joint on a planer.......sounds a lot better than
it works. <snip>
Ever try one? Mine does an excellent job.
JOAT
IThere is no vaccine against stupidity!
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
> and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
> (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
> cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
> flooring company.
You can do it, yes.
But it's rather like teaching a pig to sing - the results aren't pretty
and it annoys the hell out of the pig.
You can also joint with a router.
Gus
x-no-archive:yes
IU saw that somewhere but could not understand how it worked.
AAvK wrote:
> > Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
> > and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
> > (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
> > cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
> > flooring company.
> >
>
> Well if you have a table saw you can joint on that if you make the jig for it,
> somewhere on the net is a free plan for one, I recently saw it from a previous
> post. You can also edge joint with a long hand plane like a Stanley No. 7
> and a fence on it, and you can face joint on a jointer, as a planing task. Your
> choice what to buy for how you want to work. There is also (here and there)
> the Incra 570, like a Euro machine it does both jobs over and under using
> one cutter head, take a look, eB*y searcher: 7589185479.... in your situation
> I'd get an electric planer (for width of the boards) and a long hand plane with
> a fence if I didn't have a table saw, and I don't.
>
> --
> Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
> cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
> not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
I did this with passage door stiles - 7' long, 3" wide and 1-1/4" thick
(actually, bi-fold closet door panels, so didn't need the "regular"
1-3/8" thick stock).
Didn't stack them, just one at a time. I have CI infeed and outfeed on
my planer, so probably 4' of material support at one time. No problems
I had my stock at final thickness, but the boards were about 7" wide,
so I could rip them into two stiles. KNEW they would crook (hopefully
not twist, and they didn't), so I cut them at 3-3/16". Re-jointed the
newly-formed concave side :^) and then put them through the planer on
edge to get to final 3" width.
-Chris
Wilson wrote:
> You have to be pretty thick or stack as mentioned.
> I do it with door rails and stiles by stacking them and putting a c clamp on
> each end.
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
> and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
> (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
> cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
> flooring company.
That will give you one edge parrallel to the other. If the reference
edge is not straight, the 'jointed' edge will not be straight either.
If the board to be jointed is firmly mounted to a sled that has a
straight reference face, then that would work.
For small jobs jointing with a hand plane is easy and fun.
--
FF
stoutman wrote:
> Dave,
>
> <reinserted Dave dribble below>
>
> >With the right jig, you can make a tool do damn near anything a different
> >tool can do.
>
> How do you make YOUR voice do that?? "Damn near" in my book is pretty close
> to being "absolute".
>
> How close can you come to making a jointer act like a bandsaw with the right
> jig? I doubt you will get "damn near" close. Do you think you can get
> "damn near" to doing it? Care to recant?
>
> Good day sir!
>
Supposing one wants to make a circular tabletop and does not have
a bandsaw. I can make a jig that allows one to use the jointer to make
the circular tabletop.
ISTM you could cut any convex curve in a similar fashion. One
could also make a concave curve with a jointer, but not with a tight
radius.
Those would not be _my_ first choice for how to do it. But I could.
--
FF
In article <[email protected]>,
stryped <[email protected]> wrote:
> Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
> and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
> (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
> cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
> flooring company.
With the right jig, you can make a tool do damn near anything a
different tool can do. I imagine you could joint with a dremel if you
put enough effort into it.
So, yes you can joint with a planer. You will need to build a sled that
will hold the board on edge, and run it through the planer till you
have a straight edge.
Then you will need a sled to hold the board such that the just-planed
(jointed) edge is perfectly vertical, and plane one face so that you
have a reference face and edge at 90 degrees to each other.
At that point, you can use your table saw to square off the other edge
and your planer to flatten the board.
Then you can take some time to consider how many times you want to do
this, and whether just buying a jointer makes more sense. If you're
doing it occasionally, and like building jigs, this would be a
perfectly reasonable scenario.
djb
--
Do the right thing. It will gratify some people and astonish the rest.
- Mark Twain.
In article <AX%[email protected]>, stoutman
<.@.> wrote:
> Really??
>
> How would you make a jig to convert my table saw into a drill press?
>
> How about a jig that converts my palm sander into a lathe?
>
> <snip remaining dribble>
Dribble? Do you mean that one could not build sleds as I described to
use a planer to joint a board?
Or just that YOU couldn't do it?
--
Do the right thing. It will gratify some people and astonish the rest.
- Mark Twain.
In article <tH0Kf.31241$%[email protected]>, stoutman
<.@.> wrote:
> I want to know how to make a jig to do the things I mentioned. AND I would
> like to add one more.
>
> Since I do not have a band saw how can i build a jig to convert my jointer
> into a band saw?
I'd like to know that, too.
Go back and read the part of my post you quoted again. There was no
absolute statement there.
You can even move your lips if it will help you understand what I wrote.
And now, good day to you, sir. I shall not continue conversing with you.
--
"Usenet is like a herd of performing elephants with diarrhea -- massive,
difficult to redirect, awe-inspiring, entertaining, and a source of
mind-boggling amounts of excrement when you least expect it. "
-- Gene Spafford, 1992
In article <JD2Kf.31250$%[email protected]>, stoutman
<.@.> wrote:
> "Damn near" in my book is pretty close
> to being "absolute".
Is "pretty close" nearly "damn near" in your book, too?
Thanks for the weekend chuckle. Quite amusing.
--
<http://www.balderstone.ca/stfu.jpg>
With credit to Sgt Stryker's Daily Briefing at
http://www.sgtstryker.com/
In article <[email protected]>,
Bugs <[email protected]> wrote:
> There seem to be some misconceptions here. A jointer is specifically
> designed to make boards flat. A planer makes opposite sides parallel.
> If the board isn't flat when you start, it will only duplicate the
> shape of the face, bumps and all.
With the proper sled it is entirely possible to flatten a board with a
thickness planer.
--
Do the right thing. It will gratify some people and astonish the rest.
- Mark Twain.
Fri, Feb 17, 2006, 5:48am (EST-3) [email protected] (stryped) doth
wonder:
x-no-archive:yes
Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
(Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough cut
1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a flooring
company.
Make a planer sled.
JOAT
IThere is no vaccine against stupidity!
Dave Balderstone wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Bugs <[email protected]> wrote:
>>There seem to be some misconceptions here. A jointer is specifically
>>designed to make boards flat. A planer makes opposite sides parallel.
>>If the board isn't flat when you start, it will only duplicate the
>>shape of the face, bumps and all.
>
> With the proper sled it is entirely possible to flatten a board with a
> thickness planer.
Exactly. The combination of the board and sled has one side that's the
sled and one side that's the board. The planer then does what it's
designed to do, which in this case makes the board side parallel to the
sled side. If the side of the sled is flat, then this will obviously
make the side of the board flat.
- Brooks
--
The "bmoses-nospam" address is valid; no unmunging needed.
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:AX%[email protected]...
>
> > With the right jig, you can make a tool do damn near anything a
> > different tool can do.
>
> Really??
>
> How would you make a jig to convert my table saw into a drill press?
>
> How about a jig that converts my palm sander into a lathe?
>
> <snip remaining dribble>
>
>
Might try mounting a lathe headstock to the table saw and drive it with a
pulley from the arbor to the headstock. Drill or mill, maybe..
Can't help ya with the sander conversion.....yet.... ;-)
Aloha...
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The operational word is "near". Both of you are ignoring that.
> So, yeah, I'd say you "could" make a drill press out of a table saw -
> something like Shopsmith did. And, yeah, you "could" probably make a
> small lathe out of your palm sander. Why I don't now, but I would say
> you could, IF you worked hard enough on it.
Especially so, considering that before the advent of powered tools, manual
tools were making most everything that we build today. It's just a question
of how much a jig assists with the construction of something, not that it
can't be done.
Sun, Feb 19, 2006, 3:14pm (EST+5) .@. (stoutman) doth burble:
First he partially quotes Dave Balderstone thusly:
With the right jig, you can make a tool do damn near anything a
different tool can do.
Then he doth put out:
Really??
How would you make a jig to convert my table saw into a drill press?
How about a jig that converts my palm sander into a lathe?
<snip remaining dribble>
OK, here is the first paragraph of Dave's post in i's entirity::
With the right jig, you can make a tool do damn near anything a
different tool can do. I imagine you could joint with a dremel if you
put enough effort into it.
The operational word is "near". Both of you are ignoring that.
So, yeah, I'd say you "could" make a drill press out of a table saw -
something like Shopsmith did. And, yeah, you "could" probably make a
small lathe out of your palm sander. Why I don't now, but I would say
you could, IF you worked hard enough on it.
I'd have it all go, except I started reading both your posts, and
for the fact that BOTH of you ignoredthe "near", which is the
operational word. You guys have just GOT to learn to pay attention, or
maybe just get laid.
JOAT
IThere is no vaccine against stupidity!
What do you figure that power hand plane will do for you?
"dnoyeB" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:tuOdnYiMR-
> I could use a planer myself. I see a dewalt power hand planer looks
> nice. Then mix in a router for the jointing and I should be set on the
> cheap :P
>
> IU saw that somewhere but could not understand how it worked.
Ranger Paul seems to be an expert, with very realistic and professional opinions.
But you can STILL joint on a table saw... I would use a thin kerf blade:
$1.95 for this jig plan: http://www.newwoodworker.com/tsjointjig.html
Free from Workbench mag: http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb/
A discussion thread: http://theoak.com/specific/msgtools2/484.html
That's all I could find,
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
Dave,
<reinserted Dave dribble below>
>With the right jig, you can make a tool do damn near anything a different
>tool can do.
How do you make YOUR voice do that?? "Damn near" in my book is pretty close
to being "absolute".
How close can you come to making a jointer act like a bandsaw with the right
jig? I doubt you will get "damn near" close. Do you think you can get
"damn near" to doing it? Care to recant?
Good day sir!
--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/index.htm
(Featuring a NEW look)
"Dave Balderstone" <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca> wrote in message
news:190220061042205027%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca...
> In article <tH0Kf.31241$%[email protected]>, stoutman
> <.@.> wrote:
>
>> I want to know how to make a jig to do the things I mentioned. AND I
>> would
>> like to add one more.
>>
>> Since I do not have a band saw how can i build a jig to convert my
>> jointer
>> into a band saw?
>
> I'd like to know that, too.
>
> Go back and read the part of my post you quoted again. There was no
> absolute statement there.
>
> You can even move your lips if it will help you understand what I wrote.
>
> And now, good day to you, sir. I shall not continue conversing with you.
>
> --
> "Usenet is like a herd of performing elephants with diarrhea -- massive,
> difficult to redirect, awe-inspiring, entertaining, and a source of
> mind-boggling amounts of excrement when you least expect it. "
> -- Gene Spafford, 1992
"Dave Balderstone" <dave***@balderstone.ca> wrote in message
news:190220061746493208%dave***@balderstone.ca...
> In article <JD2Kf.31250$%[email protected]>, stoutman
> <.@.> wrote:
>
>> "Damn near" in my book is pretty close
>> to being "absolute".
>
> Is "pretty close" nearly "damn near" in your book, too?
>
> Thanks for the weekend chuckle. Quite amusing.
>
> --
> <http://www.balderstone.ca/stfu.jpg>
>
> With credit to Sgt Stryker's Daily Briefing at
> http://www.sgtstryker.com/
What happened to "I shall not continue conversing with you" ???
Until you can tell me how to resaw a board with my jointer using a jig.
Or
How to use a jig to drill a hole using my table saw...I'm done with you.
You sir are a HUGE chuckle. Now go make some jigs Chuckles!
CW wrote:
> What do you figure that power hand plane will do for you?
>
plane? Im not even sure how those things work. Regular hand plane is
really good enough for me. I have an old rusty one that I need to
rehabilitate, or maybe buy a new one.
> "dnoyeB" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:tuOdnYiMR-
>
>
>>I could use a planer myself. I see a dewalt power hand planer looks
>>nice. Then mix in a router for the jointing and I should be set on the
>>cheap :P
>>
>
>
>
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
Phisherman wrote:
> On 17 Feb 2006 05:48:56 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>x-no-archive:yes
>>
>>Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their
>>edge and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling
>>with the (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have
>>acess to rough cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly
>>straight. came from a flooring company.
>
> No. The very different machines. A surface planer will snipe.
> A jointer produces a 90-degree straight edge which a planer can
> not produce. If you must decide between two machines I'd buy the
> surface planer and joint using a hand jointer (plane). Hand
> surface planing is very time-consuming and requires more skill
> than using a hand plane.
While the "correct" answer is no you cannot use a planer to edge
joint, in some instances you can. Several times I've gang-jointed
narrow boards in a planer. The edges have to be pretty square and
straight to begin with and it's probably not a very good idea for
boards wider than a few inches. It's also a good way to quickly
produce a bunch of narrow boards that need to be exactly the same
width.
I well understand the problems in achieving a perfect 90 degree edge
using such a method, but for narrow boards ganged together that are
square (or nearly square) to begin with, the results are pretty good
and may be perfectly good for the application.
Joe Barta
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:EIAJf.56$Yq3.28@fed1read03...
>
>> IU saw that somewhere but could not understand how it worked.
>
>
> Ranger Paul seems to be an expert, with very realistic and professional
> opinions.
> But you can STILL joint on a table saw... I would use a thin kerf blade:
I can see problems using a thin kerf blade to straighten/joint a board. If
cutting a minimum off of the board and only one side of the blade is doing
the cutting which is VERY OFTEN the case when using a TS to straighten
boards the blade is going to deflect more than normal.
On 17 Feb 2006 05:48:56 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>x-no-archive:yes
>
>Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
>and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
>(Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
>cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
>flooring company.
No. The very different machines. A surface planer will snipe. A
jointer produces a 90-degree straight edge which a planer can not
produce. If you must decide between two machines I'd buy the surface
planer and joint using a hand jointer (plane). Hand surface planing
is very time-consuming and requires more skill than using a hand
plane.
On 17 Feb 2006 05:48:56 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>x-no-archive:yes
>
>Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
>and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
>(Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
>cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
>flooring company.
As others have described you can run boards on edge through a planer
'to clean up the edge' .... not the same as "jointing" the edge,
however. It will not straighten the boards, only plane a smooth edge.
If the opposite edge of the board isn't already straight, it will just
follow the same curve due to the force of the pressure rollers. If as
you say, it's fairly straight, you might be ok.
Likewise, before thicknessing a board in a planer the face should
first be flattened on a jointer.(assuming rough stock) While it is
possible to create a sled for a planer that will allow you to adjust
for cupping/twist etc., It would involve some effort to get it right.
IMO Again, if it isn't flat on one side to begin with, the other side
will just end up parallel to it, not necessarily flat.
Lenny
http://www.geocities.com/lenhow/
http://www.geocities.com/lenhow/Work
On 17 Feb 2006 05:48:56 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
>and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
>(Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
>cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
>flooring company.
I've never tried it but....
some carpenters working in a house down the street from us would cut
all of their closet cleats which were 3 1/2" wide, stand about four of
them against each other and run them through the planer (standing on
edge) to joint the edges. Being closet cleats I'm sure they weren't
too concerned about the edges being square to the face but it worked
for them.
BTW, they didn't have a jointer on the job.
Mike O.
You have to be pretty thick or stack as mentioned.
I do it with door rails and stiles by stacking them and putting a c clamp on
each end.
I don't need to tell you the importance of naving the body of the clamp
delow the knives AND the handle set so it stays horizontal and can't get up
into the knives. It's scary the first couple of times. Of course you could
also drill 1/4" holes near all the ends and stack with bolts. Stacking and
securing this way allows you to force the pieces vertical and assures edges
square to the faces.
Wilson
"Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 17 Feb 2006 05:48:56 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
>>and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
>>(Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
>>cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
>>flooring company.
>
> I've never tried it but....
> some carpenters working in a house down the street from us would cut
> all of their closet cleats which were 3 1/2" wide, stand about four of
> them against each other and run them through the planer (standing on
> edge) to joint the edges. Being closet cleats I'm sure they weren't
> too concerned about the edges being square to the face but it worked
> for them.
> BTW, they didn't have a jointer on the job.
>
> Mike O.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> stoutman wrote:
>> Dave,
>>
>> <reinserted Dave dribble below>
>>
>> >With the right jig, you can make a tool do damn near anything a
>> >different
>> >tool can do.
>>
>> How do you make YOUR voice do that?? "Damn near" in my book is pretty
>> close
>> to being "absolute".
>>
>> How close can you come to making a jointer act like a bandsaw with the
>> right
>> jig? I doubt you will get "damn near" close. Do you think you can get
>> "damn near" to doing it? Care to recant?
>>
>> Good day sir!
>>
>
> Supposing one wants to make a circular tabletop and does not have
> a bandsaw. I can make a jig that allows one to use the jointer to make
> the circular tabletop.
>
> ISTM you could cut any convex curve in a similar fashion. One
> could also make a concave curve with a jointer, but not with a tight
> radius.
>
> Those would not be _my_ first choice for how to do it. But I could.
>
> --
What you describe would be more easily done with a router and circle jig.
but like you said, not your first choice.
How would you make a jig to resaw with a jointer? :)
>
> FF
>
There is nothing to ensure square.
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You have to be pretty thick or stack as mentioned.
> I do it with door rails and stiles by stacking them and putting a c clamp
on
> each end.
> I don't need to tell you the importance of naving the body of the clamp
> delow the knives AND the handle set so it stays horizontal and can't get
up
> into the knives. It's scary the first couple of times. Of course you
could
> also drill 1/4" holes near all the ends and stack with bolts. Stacking
and
> securing this way allows you to force the pieces vertical and assures
edges
> square to the faces.
> Wilson
>
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
> and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
> (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
> cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
> flooring company.
>
Because it would be difficult to keep a board standing on edge and
especially when it is not a 90 degree edge to start with.
If you have a TS you can easily straighten a board using a sled but only
after flattening the board.
I think you will find a planer more useful. I use the planer to flatten
rough cut boards with a sled.
Phisherman wrote:
> On 17 Feb 2006 05:48:56 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>x-no-archive:yes
>>
>>Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
>>and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
>>(Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
>>cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
>>flooring company.
>
>
> No. The very different machines. A surface planer will snipe. A
> jointer produces a 90-degree straight edge which a planer can not
> produce. If you must decide between two machines I'd buy the surface
> planer and joint using a hand jointer (plane). Hand surface planing
> is very time-consuming and requires more skill than using a hand
> plane.
A jointer can snipe tool if incorrectly adjusted. and my planer doesn't
snipe... :) (I know many do)
Dave
"Dave Balderstone" <dave***@balderstone.ca> wrote in message
news:190220060958588942%dave***@balderstone.ca...
> In article <AX%[email protected]>, stoutman
> <.@.> wrote:
>
>> Really??
>>
>> How would you make a jig to convert my table saw into a drill press?
>>
>> How about a jig that converts my palm sander into a lathe?
>>
>> <snip remaining dribble>
>
> Dribble? Do you mean that one could not build sleds as I described to
> use a planer to joint a board?
>
> Or just that YOU couldn't do it?
I want to know how to make a jig to do the things I mentioned. AND I would
like to add one more.
Since I do not have a band saw how can i build a jig to convert my jointer
into a band saw?
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
> and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
> (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
> cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
> flooring company.
>
I thought you could plane on a jointer but not joint on a planer?
Something like that. There are jointer-planers and thickness planers
IIRC. But I never used either so im only going from what I read.
I could use a planer myself. I see a dewalt power hand planer looks
nice. Then mix in a router for the jointing and I should be set on the
cheap :P
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
> Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge
> and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the
> (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough
> cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a
> flooring company.
>
Well if you have a table saw you can joint on that if you make the jig for it,
somewhere on the net is a free plan for one, I recently saw it from a previous
post. You can also edge joint with a long hand plane like a Stanley No. 7
and a fence on it, and you can face joint on a jointer, as a planing task. Your
choice what to buy for how you want to work. There is also (here and there)
the Incra 570, like a Euro machine it does both jobs over and under using
one cutter head, take a look, eB*y searcher: 7589185479.... in your situation
I'd get an electric planer (for width of the boards) and a long hand plane with
a fence if I didn't have a table saw, and I don't.
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/