I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
The profile for the box sides is shown here:
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it
into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some
other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in
figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is
approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made
uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture
that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be
really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary,
bench, and hand power tools.
On 11/26/2012 11:05 PM, David wrote:
> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>
> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it
> into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some
> other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in
> figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is
> approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made
> uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture
> that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be
> really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary,
> bench, and hand power tools.
>
>
Just a thought, it sounds like a lot of trouble to make unless you have
a molder. My local wood supplier is also a mill that makes moldings
from most every common wood. Have you looked at some of the baseboard
moldings? Maybe buy a buy a molding with a curved top, rip it in half
and glue the two halves together? Something to kick around.
In article <[email protected]>, David <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>
> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it
> into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some
> other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in
> figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is
> approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made
> uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture
> that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be
> really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary,
> bench, and hand power tools.
I agree with C-Less. Hand plane (sharp!), scraper, sandpaper or block.
For sanding you could make a custom block out of autobody filler (aka
bondo) from a shorter board with the correct profile.
--
I used to like fishing because I thought it had some larger significance. Now I
like fishing because it¹s the one thing I can think of that probably doesn¹t.
John Gierach
On Monday, November 26, 2012 9:05:12 PM UTC-8, David wrote:
> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. =
The profile for the box sides is shown here: https://www.amazon.com/clouddr=
ive/share?s=3DjV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece abou=
t 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood w=
ill be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for g=
enerating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is th=
e 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable a=
s long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there =
has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to sh=
are the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complem=
ent of stationary, bench, and hand power tools.
I'm not sure I fully understand what the finished piece looks like but if i=
t is a circular arc with a 20" radius, I would make a trammel for my router=
(mount router to one end of 6" wide board by 30" long). Then I would cut o=
ut this arc from MDF. Then use that as a pattern to build a jig. Affix the =
real piece to the jig and use a pattern bit (with a bearing follower) and s=
hape the part on the router table.
If there is a bunch of material to remove then first trace the shape from t=
he jig to the final part and precut the part on the band saw leaving just a=
n 1/8" or so to trim with the pattern bit.
Does this make sense?
On Tue, 27 Nov 2012 07:35:52 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
>> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
>> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>>
>> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it
>> into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some
>> other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in
>> figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else
>> is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made
>> uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or
>> fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it
>> would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of
>> stationary, bench, and hand power tools.
>>
>I would be inclined to make a jig for the thickness planer with a shim under
>one side so that it raises the board up at the edge. Given the grain, move
>the shim to the other side of the jig and run the board through again to
>taper the other edge. The edge could be radiused with a router/sander
>afterwards.
I suppose that might work (and be safe) if he stuck each piece down
with doublesided tape.
Q: Are these tapered end-to-end AND side-to-side?
I'd use a hand plane or cabinet scraper to shape and then sand to
final smoothness; maybe 5 minutes per. Or if he's a total Normite, a
handheld belt sandah for the whole shebang.
Alternatively, I wonder if they might be fully shaped and smoothed on
a large stroke sander.
Practice on a couple scraps to perfect the performance.
--
Good ideas alter the power balance in relationships, that is why
good ideas are always initially resisted. Good ideas come with a
heavy burden. Which is why so few people have them. So few people
can handle it.
-- Hugh Macleod
"David" wrote:
> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late
> January. The profile for the box sides is shown here:
> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>
> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then
> cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut,
> mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for
> generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important
> dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile
> B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48"
> length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will
> solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be
> really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of
> stationary, bench, and hand power tools.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I refer you to Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht Joinery" for a
graphical
solution to layout the profile.
Layout a profile gauge block using 1/4? hardboard.
Make a "long board", again see Bingham's book, and dress profile to
piece.
Check profile frequently using profile gauge.
A good sharp jack plane followed by longboard final sanding also
works.
SFWIW, I'm a total Normite, but this is a hand job IMHO.
Have fun.
Lew
"David" wrote:
>> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late
>> January. The profile for the box sides is shown here:
>> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>>
>> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then
>> cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut,
>> mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for
>> generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important
>> dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile
>> B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the
>> 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that
>> will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would
>> be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of
>> stationary, bench, and hand power tools.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
> I refer you to Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht Joinery" for a
> graphical
> solution to layout the profile.
>
> Layout a profile gauge block using 1/4? hardboard.
>
> Make a "long board", again see Bingham's book, and dress profile to
> piece.
>
> Check profile frequently using profile gauge.
>
> A good sharp jack plane followed by longboard final sanding also
> works.
>
> SFWIW, I'm a total Normite, but this is a hand job IMHO.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Forgot to mention another solution to get a "fair" curved piece.
A 4", right angle, sander/grinder equipped with 60 grit paper.
You use sweeping passes (Think of a paint spraying motion) along the
board removing 0.015"-0.020"/pass.
Standard practice along with a long board to fair out curved surfaces.
Practice on a scrap 2by4 to develop your technique.
Lew
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
"David" wrote:
> I'd prefer to use a technique that is less reliant on the user's
> (me) skill and more on equipment or fixture setup. But, I found an
> inexpensive copy of Bingham's book and ordered it "just in case".
> Thanks for the suggestion.
--------------------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
> I refer you to Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht Joinery" for a
> graphical
> solution to layout the profile.
------------------------------------------------------------
When you get book, find Fig: 5-42, "Geometric layout for any camber".
Provides a good gamber for your top.
-----------------------------------------------------------
As I said, I'm strictly a Normite, but this IMHO, is strictly hand
work.
-----------------------------------------------------------
http://tinyurl.com/bwf5euz
This will show commercial long boards available from Jamestown
Distributors.
I made mine using plywood and rubber cement to hold sandpaper strips.
A 4' x 36" rigid board should do a good job (1/2" plywood) of cleaning
up surface.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Have fun.
Lew
On 11/27/2012 5:49 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> On 11/27/2012 12:05 AM, David wrote:
>> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
>> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
>> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>>
>> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then
>> cut it
>> into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some
>> other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile
>> shown in
>> figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything
>> else is
>> approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made
>> uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or
>> fixture
>> that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it
>> would be
>> really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary,
>> bench, and hand power tools.
>>
>>
> I would just handplane that radius
To handplane just take a marking gauge cut the 1/8 line on the edges.
Chamfer to that 1/8 line
then smooth from where you want it to start to that chamfer.. much
faster than you'd expect.. its a mild radius
"David" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
I don't have a shaper and probably wouldn't be interested in the expense of
a custom cutter anyway. But, my backup plan is to use a saw to remove most
of the waste material with one or two cuts, then use a hand plane followed
by sanding.
=========================================================================
Plane to rough shape them grind a scraper to fit. It will give you the same
profile all the way down, unlike sanding.
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>
> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it
> into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some
> other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in
> figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else
> is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made
> uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or
> fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it
> would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of
> stationary, bench, and hand power tools.
>
I would be inclined to make a jig for the thickness planer with a shim under
one side so that it raises the board up at the edge. Given the grain, move
the shim to the other side of the jig and run the board through again to
taper the other edge. The edge could be radiused with a router/sander
afterwards.
John
On 11/27/2012 12:05 AM, David wrote:
> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>
> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it
> into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some
> other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in
> figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is
> approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made
> uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture
> that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be
> really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary,
> bench, and hand power tools.
>
>
I would just handplane that radius
On Nov 27, 6:23=A0pm, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
> On 11/27/2012 5:49 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 11/27/2012 12:05 AM, David wrote:
> >> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late Januar=
y.
> >> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
> >>https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=3DjV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>
> >> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then
> >> cut it
> >> into four pieces for the sides. =A0Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or s=
ome
> >> other hardwood. =A0 What are the options for generating the profile
> >> shown in
> >> figure A? =A0The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything
> >> else is
> >> approximate. =A0Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be mad=
e
> >> uniform over the 48" length. =A0If someone out there has made a jig or
> >> fixture
> >> that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it
> >> would be
> >> really appreciated. =A0BTW, =A0I have the usual complement of =A0stati=
onary,
> >> bench, and hand power tools.
>
> > I would just handplane that radius
>
> To handplane just take a marking gauge cut the 1/8 line on the edges.
> Chamfer to that 1/8 line
> then smooth from where you want it to start to that chamfer.. much
> faster than you'd expect.. its a mild radius
Not too hard to make a contoured scraper for finishing.
On Tuesday, November 27, 2012 8:45:39 PM UTC-5, David wrote:
> I'd prefer to use a technique that is less reliant on the user's (me) skill
>
> and more on equipment or fixture setup.
If you have a (suitably sized) shaper you could have a knife made. You could get an assortment of large router bits and see if you can cobble something that way. A table saw and a lot of patience with fence and angle settings could do it too I'm sure.
JP
*********************************
William & Hussey could help too.
On 11/26/12 11:05 PM, David wrote:
> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>
> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it
> into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some
> other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in
> figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is
> approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made
> uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture
> that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be
> really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary,
> bench, and hand power tools.
>
Make a sled for the router that will ride over the stock.
The sled will arch in the shape of that profile.
The router will ride on top of the sled with the bit underneath.
google: router planing sled
Build one with the top in an arch to match the profile.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
The sled approach is one of things I've considered however it appeared to me
the sled would have to swing over the top of the workpiece on a 20" radius.
I think you're suggesting an arched sled that could could be moved linearly
along the workpiece. Correct? That would be much easier to make and it
looks like it would work. Thanks for the suggestion. Any other suggestions
out there?
>
>
> Make a sled for the router that will ride over the stock.
> The sled will arch in the shape of that profile.
> The router will ride on top of the sled with the bit underneath.
> google: router planing sled
> Build one with the top in an arch to match the profile.
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> [email protected]
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
On 11/26/2012 11:05 PM, David wrote:
> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>
> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it
> into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some
> other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in
> figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is
> approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made
> uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture
> that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be
> really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary,
> bench, and hand power tools.
>
Hand plane would take care of that in short order.
Easiest way to get a little head start would be a pass on edge through
TS w/ appropriate angle. Or, assuming you have a bandsaw.
Second would be the planer sled altho I often for small pieces like that
will just tack a shim (double tape works) on the off side and use the
jointer for a couple of passes...
--
On 11/27/2012 8:22 AM, dpb wrote:
...
> Second would be the planer sled altho I often for small pieces like that
> will just tack a shim (double tape works) on the off side and use the
> jointer for a couple of passes...
It's easy enough "freehand", too...just put a shim on the infeed table
and then hold the jointed face flat on the outfeed table. After the
first pass or two there's sufficient surface to follow directly...
--
Your assumption is correct. I need to make a 4" x 48" piece with a convex
surface face that approximates a 20" radius.
Although I didn't mention it, the approach you recommend is the first thing
I tried: first saw an angle on convex face, then blend with a plane followed
by sanding. It wasn't bad but I found it difficult maintain profile
continuity over the length of the board, although the second or third piece
would probably have become better with practice.
This afternoon I went to the shop and started building a router fixture
inspired by the first commenter, Mike. However, rather than making a sled
I'm working on a fixed fixed guide that the workpiece will pass under. If
it works, I'll post the results tomorrow. If that doesn't work then I think
the saw, plane, sand approach is the next best option.
>
> If I read it correctly, it appears that the sides of the box are 4" tall
> with 20" radius, and will be cut out of a piece 48" long, which must
> contain that profile before being sliced up for the sides ... pretty tough
> job for a router pattern bit. :)
>
> But, I'm not sure if that is indeed the gig? ... if it is, and if had to
> do more than one, I would probably approach it thusly:
>
> https://plus.google.com/photos/111355467778981859077/albums/5670803008599123937/5815642830465886418
>
> Just talking out loud ....
>
>
> --
> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
> http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Good suggestion. I'll keep that in mind and use it if it's needed to true
up the final contour.
"JayPique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Make a mold. Line it with 80 grit and sand that right off.
>
> JP
> ***********************
> Me? Shaper/knife.
I'd prefer to use a technique that is less reliant on the user's (me) skill
and more on equipment or fixture setup. But, I found an inexpensive copy of
Bingham's book and ordered it "just in case". Thanks for the suggestion.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "David" wrote:
>
>>> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
>>> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
>>> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>>>
>>> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut
>>> it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or
>>> some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile
>>> shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width,
>>> everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long
>>> as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has
>>> made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to
>>> share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual
>>> complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
>
>> I refer you to Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht Joinery" for a
>> graphical
>> solution to layout the profile.
>>
>> Layout a profile gauge block using 1/4? hardboard.
>>
>> Make a "long board", again see Bingham's book, and dress profile to
>> piece.
>>
>> Check profile frequently using profile gauge.
>>
>> A good sharp jack plane followed by longboard final sanding also works.
>>
>> SFWIW, I'm a total Normite, but this is a hand job IMHO.
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> Forgot to mention another solution to get a "fair" curved piece.
>
> A 4", right angle, sander/grinder equipped with 60 grit paper.
>
> You use sweeping passes (Think of a paint spraying motion) along the
> board removing 0.015"-0.020"/pass.
>
> Standard practice along with a long board to fair out curved surfaces.
>
> Practice on a scrap 2by4 to develop your technique.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
>>
>> Have fun.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
I don't have a shaper and probably wouldn't be interested in the expense of
a custom cutter anyway. But, my backup plan is to use a saw to remove most
of the waste material with one or two cuts, then use a hand plane followed
by sanding.
"JayPique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tuesday, November 27, 2012 8:45:39 PM UTC-5, David wrote:
>> I'd prefer to use a technique that is less reliant on the user's (me)
>> skill
>>
>> and more on equipment or fixture setup.
>
> If you have a (suitably sized) shaper you could have a knife made. You
> could get an assortment of large router bits and see if you can cobble
> something that way. A table saw and a lot of patience with fence and
> angle settings could do it too I'm sure.
>
> JP
> *********************************
> William & Hussey could help too.
Another good suggestion. I have an old scraper that could be sacrificed if
needed.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "David" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> I don't have a shaper and probably wouldn't be interested in the expense
> of
> a custom cutter anyway. But, my backup plan is to use a saw to remove
> most
> of the waste material with one or two cuts, then use a hand plane followed
> by sanding.
> =========================================================================
> Plane to rough shape them grind a scraper to fit. It will give you the
> same profile all the way down, unlike sanding.
I made a bridge fixture to test the concept and it looks very promising.
Photos here:
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=kdjQE4BVQn8kfXniMQlq8w
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=1ofBuWJ0RVElb7nbou2NRY
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=Fek5yyXPSq8gcl0LwxIkOk
The result will still require a bit of sanding but the basic contour appears
to be repeatable.
This attempt was a proof of concept rather than a finished fixture so please
bear in mind when evaluating the crude appearance. The first photo shows the
bridge where the router rides on its surface and mills the contour on the
workpiece below. The workpiece moves from left to right rather than the
fixture moving. The second photo is a side view which shows the
approximately 20" radius countour of the bridge. The third photo shows the
contour cut into the top of the test workpiece. The next step is to make an
improved version of the fixture where the contour is more precisely cut and
is better centered over the workpiece slot.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Every one was appreciated.
> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January.
> The profile for the box sides is shown here:
> https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs
>
> My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it
> into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some
> other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in
> figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else
> is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made
> uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or
> fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it
> would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of
> stationary, bench, and hand power tools.
>
On 11/27/2012 3:25 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Monday, November 26, 2012 9:05:12 PM UTC-8, David wrote:
>> I'm planning on making some boxes for birthday presents in late January. The profile for the box sides is shown here: https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=jV1_-IDETg4r_R18m5vLcs My plan is to make a single piece about 48" long for each box, then cut it into four pieces for the sides. Wood will be walnut, mahogany, or some other hardwood. What are the options for generating the profile shown in figure A? The only important dimension is the 4" width, everything else is approximate. Profile B would be acceptable as long as it can be made uniform over the 48" length. If someone out there has made a jig or fixture that will solve this problem and is willing to share the plan, it would be really appreciated. BTW, I have the usual complement of stationary, bench, and hand power tools.
>
> I'm not sure I fully understand what the finished piece looks like but if it is a circular arc with a 20" radius, I would make a trammel for my router (mount router to one end of 6" wide board by 30" long). Then I would cut out this arc from MDF. Then use that as a pattern to build a jig. Affix the real piece to the jig and use a pattern bit (with a bearing follower) and shape the part on the router table.
>
> If there is a bunch of material to remove then first trace the shape from the jig to the final part and precut the part on the band saw leaving just an 1/8" or so to trim with the pattern bit.
>
> Does this make sense?
If I read it correctly, it appears that the sides of the box are 4" tall
with 20" radius, and will be cut out of a piece 48" long, which must
contain that profile before being sliced up for the sides ... pretty
tough job for a router pattern bit. :)
But, I'm not sure if that is indeed the gig? ... if it is, and if had to
do more than one, I would probably approach it thusly:
https://plus.google.com/photos/111355467778981859077/albums/5670803008599123937/5815642830465886418
Just talking out loud ....
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 11/27/2012 6:41 PM, David wrote:
> Although I didn't mention it, the approach you recommend is the first thing
> I tried: first saw an angle on convex face, then blend with a plane followed
> by sanding. It wasn't bad but I found it difficult maintain profile
> continuity over the length of the board, although the second or third piece
> would probably have become better with practice.
As AR as I am wont to be, I'm probably the last guy to be saying this,
but handmade items to NOT need to look like they came from a cookie cutter.
A bit of imperfection adds to the beauty ... justification for the
"beauty mark", applied in the days of yore, of women's makeup. ;)
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)