Let's say I'm cutting a dado using my router by hand against a fence clamped
to the workpiece. I have the fence to the left of the router, as I'm pushing
the router away from me (this tends to keep the router against the fence).
If I need to take a second cut to widen the dado, do I:
1. move the fence further to the left, and widen the dado to the left, or
2. move the fence to the right, and widen the dado to the right?
It seems to me that number 1 is correct to avoid a climb cut, but this seems
to contradict the pictures in "Woodworking With The Router" by Hylton &
Matlack (see page 230 - Fractionating Baseplate).
Thanks,
Steve
Some cheap thrills (and tips) here:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt001.asp
******************************************************************************
> Let's say I'm cutting a dado using my router by hand against a fence clamped
> to the workpiece. I have the fence to the left of the router, as I'm pushing
> the router away from me (this tends to keep the router against the fence).
> If I need to take a second cut to widen the dado, do I:
>
> 1. move the fence further to the left, and widen the dado to the left, or
> 2. move the fence to the right, and widen the dado to the right?
>
> It seems to me that number 1 is correct to avoid a climb cut, but this seems
> to contradict the pictures in "Woodworking With The Router" by Hylton &
> Matlack (see page 230 - Fractionating Baseplate).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
"Steve Almond" writes:
> Let's say I'm cutting a dado using my router by hand against a fence
clamped
> to the workpiece. I have the fence to the left of the router, as I'm
pushing
> the router away from me (this tends to keep the router against the fence).
> If I need to take a second cut to widen the dado, do I:
>
> 1. move the fence further to the left, and widen the dado to the left, or
> 2. move the fence to the right, and widen the dado to the right?
<snip>
SFWIW, if I'm going to make a dado cut using a router, I always make two (2)
passes, clamping a fence on each side of the dado, using an undersize bit,
say 60%-75% of the total dado width..
That way, I never have a screw up when I forget and inadvertently allow the
router to go into "climb" mode.
If there are several dado cuts required, make a jig that functions as the
double fence.
I use this technique to make ladders in the boat yard from 2x4 construction
lumber.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
You could move it in either direction. Just have to fed in the appropraite
direction.
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I made a large set of utility shelves last year in which I had to cut a
> jillion 13/16" dados with a 3/4" bit. This required two passes. I did
> exactly like you stated - move the fence to the left for the second pass
and
> push the router left to right.
>
> I'd say your book is wrong!
>
>
>
I made a large set of utility shelves last year in which I had to cut a
jillion 13/16" dados with a 3/4" bit. This required two passes. I did
exactly like you stated - move the fence to the left for the second pass and
push the router left to right.
I'd say your book is wrong!
Bob
"Steve Almond" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Let's say I'm cutting a dado using my router by hand against a fence
clamped
> to the workpiece. I have the fence to the left of the router, as I'm
pushing
> the router away from me (this tends to keep the router against the fence).
> If I need to take a second cut to widen the dado, do I:
>
> 1. move the fence further to the left, and widen the dado to the left, or
> 2. move the fence to the right, and widen the dado to the right?
>
> It seems to me that number 1 is correct to avoid a climb cut, but this
seems
> to contradict the pictures in "Woodworking With The Router" by Hylton &
> Matlack (see page 230 - Fractionating Baseplate).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
I'd try to find/make a 1/16" strip to use on the edge guide for first cut then
remove it for second NOT moving the edge guide.
>I made a large set of utility shelves last year in which I had to cut a
>jillion 13/16" dados with a 3/4" bit. This required two passes. I did
>exactly like you stated - move the fence to the left for the second pass and
>push the router left to right.
Thanks for the answers, chaps. My dados were 42mm wide and I cut them with
an 8mm bit, so I started with a big spacer and whilst leaving the fence in
position inserted smaller and smaller spacers until I finished with no
spacer (directly against the fence). Worked OK,.
Steve
"Nospambob1" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'd try to find/make a 1/16" strip to use on the edge guide for first cut
then
> remove it for second NOT moving the edge guide.
>
> >I made a large set of utility shelves last year in which I had to cut a
> >jillion 13/16" dados with a 3/4" bit. This required two passes. I did
> >exactly like you stated - move the fence to the left for the second pass
and
> >push the router left to right.
>
>
Woodhaven makes a nice dado jig that traps the router on both sides. You
use your board to set the thickness and then rout up one side of the jig and
back down the other side of the jig. It works very well and you never have
an "oops" moment where the router cuts a little divot that will be clearly
visible.
--
dbchamber at hotmail spam dot com
Remove the spam to reach me
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:UUTxb.344141$Tr4.1037236@attbi_s03...
> You could move it in either direction. Just have to fed in the appropraite
> direction.
>
> "Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I made a large set of utility shelves last year in which I had to cut a
> > jillion 13/16" dados with a 3/4" bit. This required two passes. I did
> > exactly like you stated - move the fence to the left for the second pass
> and
> > push the router left to right.
> >
> > I'd say your book is wrong!
> >
> >
> >
>
>