I am making my first attempt at a raised panel door for a small cabinet
to hang on the wall. I don't want to spend the money on the expensive
bits to make it with. I don't have a biscuit jointer and again the money
problem. does anyone have any good ideas for joinery for the rail and
stiles?? I was thinkimg just a miter and glue but that doesn't seem to
me to be strong enough. I have seen ones with an extra 1/4" panel on
the inside but that may make the door to thick for me. any help at all
would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
Dave
I hate to lay out money for cutters also but in the long run I think they
are worth it . I bought as et of stile and rail cutters for my shaper 15
years ago and have not regretted it since. I got the shaper set from
grizzleguts and basically I added the cost to a fairly large job. [I used to
price things years ago in terms of how many double scotches over ice would
that be ]. the set came with an extra cutter so that I could do a glass
groove. the set is so versatile that I have made 13/8" interior doors where
the door panels are raised both sides, whole raised panel rooms of stiles
and rails, to some fairly delicate 3/4" doors for a corner cabinet. All in
all they were well worth the initial outlay........mjh
--
"Lyndell Thompson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> There is a really good article in Wood magazine, march 2003- issue 147,
> about making shaker style doors with only a tablesaw and dado blade set.
> Page 67-69. Scanner down right now. You may be able to get info from Wood
> magazine(www.woodonline.com). If not I will get on it first thing back
from
> vacation.
> It simply uses the table saw blade to saw an angle where normally a raised
> panel cutter would cope out the panel. Good luck. Lyndell
>
> "Mojo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I am making my first attempt at a raised panel door for a small cabinet
> > to hang on the wall. I don't want to spend the money on the expensive
> > bits to make it with. I don't have a biscuit jointer and again the money
> > problem. does anyone have any good ideas for joinery for the rail and
> > stiles?? I was thinkimg just a miter and glue but that doesn't seem to
> > me to be strong enough. I have seen ones with an extra 1/4" panel on
> > the inside but that may make the door to thick for me. any help at all
> > would be greatly appreciated.
> > TIA
> > Dave
>
>
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Assuming 3/4 stock
> Make a 1/4 x 3/4" dep groove around the 4 inside edges of the peices
> The on the 2 vertical peices - make 3/4" long x 1/4 thick tennons on the
> ends
> then fit it together.
>
> Use your table saw at 15-25 degrees to make the panels.
> DAGS - lots of examples out there.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
><SNIP>
I agree with the above. It is called a stub tenon and should work great for
your door. You might also look at not doing a raised panel. You could do a
recessed panel with 1/4" plywood for the panel. It is what a lot of people
call shaker style.
Good luck - Bob McBreen
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> I am making my first attempt at a raised panel door for a small cabinet
> to hang on the wall. I don't want to spend the money on the expensive
> bits to make it with. I don't have a biscuit jointer and again the money
> problem. does anyone have any good ideas for joinery for the rail and
> stiles?? I was thinkimg just a miter and glue but that doesn't seem to
> me to be strong enough. I have seen ones with an extra 1/4" panel on
> the inside but that may make the door to thick for me. any help at all
> would be greatly appreciated.
> TIA
> Dave
>
First raised panel doors I made used mortise and tennon for the rail
and stile and I used the table saw to create the raised panels.
Saddle/bridle joint (and bridle is the more correct name. My error) is
similar to the mortise and tennon joint. The tenon is the full width of the
board and the bridle is a U shaped mortise or, if you will, notch in the
stile (no top) the same length as the width of the rail that allows the rail
to slip down and into it.
A good strong joint with lots of glue area but you end up with end grain
showing on the sides and top.
And I forgot to mention the mitered half lap joint. I knew there was one I
forgot. The plus with the mitered half lap is that, unlike a full half lap,
there is no end grain showing.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Mojo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks some really great ideas here. I see what you mean by the tenon
> going into the groove for the panel. that seems a lot easier than the
> standard mortise and tenon for me. I also like the idea of the spline
> joint too. Not quite sure what the bridle or saddle joint is so i quess
> those are out. I am making this out of oak so theres lots of
> possibilities of a contrasting wood on this one. I'll let you guys know
> what i decide to do and post a picture when done. Thanks again for all
> the help.
> Thanks
> Dave
Stub tenon joint, loose tennon joint, mortise and tenon joint, saddle joint,
spline joint, mitered spline joint, half lap joint.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Mojo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making my first attempt at a raised panel door for a small cabinet
> to hang on the wall. I don't want to spend the money on the expensive
> bits to make it with. I don't have a biscuit jointer and again the money
> problem. does anyone have any good ideas for joinery for the rail and
> stiles?? I was thinkimg just a miter and glue but that doesn't seem to
> me to be strong enough. I have seen ones with an extra 1/4" panel on
> the inside but that may make the door to thick for me. any help at all
> would be greatly appreciated.
> TIA
> Dave
There is a really good article in Wood magazine, march 2003- issue 147,
about making shaker style doors with only a tablesaw and dado blade set.
Page 67-69. Scanner down right now. You may be able to get info from Wood
magazine(www.woodonline.com). If not I will get on it first thing back from
vacation.
It simply uses the table saw blade to saw an angle where normally a raised
panel cutter would cope out the panel. Good luck. Lyndell
"Mojo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making my first attempt at a raised panel door for a small cabinet
> to hang on the wall. I don't want to spend the money on the expensive
> bits to make it with. I don't have a biscuit jointer and again the money
> problem. does anyone have any good ideas for joinery for the rail and
> stiles?? I was thinkimg just a miter and glue but that doesn't seem to
> me to be strong enough. I have seen ones with an extra 1/4" panel on
> the inside but that may make the door to thick for me. any help at all
> would be greatly appreciated.
> TIA
> Dave
In article <[email protected]>,
Mojo <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am making my first attempt at a raised panel door for a small cabinet
>to hang on the wall. I don't want to spend the money on the expensive
>bits to make it with. I don't have a biscuit jointer and again the money
>problem. does anyone have any good ideas for joinery for the rail and
>stiles?? I was thinkimg just a miter and glue but that doesn't seem to
>me to be strong enough. I have seen ones with an extra 1/4" panel on
>the inside but that may make the door to thick for me. any help at all
>would be greatly appreciated.
>TIA
>Dave
If you don't mind some endgrain showing on the edges of the door
frame, how about a bridle joint?
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
this is all great advice and thank you all. but this is my first
attempt at anything that would resemble real woodworking. all my other
projects have been very easy projects. I have the confidence for the
raised panel but i don't think i can handle a mortise and tennon just
yet. besides not having the tools i am not yet at that point in
woodworking yet. if you got any other advice i would appreciate it as
much as what you have already given me
Thanks
Dave
"James D Kountz" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Then again theres always
> *gulp* dowels.
Dowels are great - when you forget to allow the extra length for
the tenon you originally meant to use (of course, that assumes
you noticed your mistake before cutting the mortise).
John
Thanks some really great ideas here. I see what you mean by the tenon
going into the groove for the panel. that seems a lot easier than the
standard mortise and tenon for me. I also like the idea of the spline
joint too. Not quite sure what the bridle or saddle joint is so i quess
those are out. I am making this out of oak so theres lots of
possibilities of a contrasting wood on this one. I'll let you guys know
what i decide to do and post a picture when done. Thanks again for all
the help.
Thanks
Dave
This month's Canadian Woodworker shows them doing it at 90 degrees.
They only raise the blade 1/32 at a time, but this still sounds scary
to me.
Joe
> Use your table saw at 15-25 degrees to make the panels.
> DAGS - lots of examples out there.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
>
>
>
> "Mojo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I am making my first attempt at a raised panel door for a small cabinet
> > to hang on the wall. I don't want to spend the money on the expensive
> > bits to make it with. I don't have a biscuit jointer and again the money
> > problem. does anyone have any good ideas for joinery for the rail and
> > stiles?? I was thinkimg just a miter and glue but that doesn't seem to
> > me to be strong enough. I have seen ones with an extra 1/4" panel on
> > the inside but that may make the door to thick for me. any help at all
> > would be greatly appreciated.
> > TIA
> > Dave
RWM wrote:
>"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>Assuming 3/4 stock
>>Make a 1/4 x 3/4" dep groove around the 4 inside edges of the peices
>>The on the 2 vertical peices - make 3/4" long x 1/4 thick tennons on the
>>ends
>>then fit it together.
>>
>>Use your table saw at 15-25 degrees to make the panels.
>>DAGS - lots of examples out there.
>>
>>Hope that helps.
>>
>><SNIP>
>>
>>
>
>I agree with the above. It is called a stub tenon and should work great for
>your door. You might also look at not doing a raised panel. You could do a
>recessed panel with 1/4" plywood for the panel. It is what a lot of people
>call shaker style.
>
>Good luck - Bob McBreen
>
>
>
After last playing with any kind of wood tools 15 years earlier, I got
myself a wife, a house, a few pets and some kids. Looking at furniture
prices, at the time, I told myself that I could spend less and make
something of better quality myself. So I bought myself a contractors
table saw. That's all I had besides the usual hammer and nails. Not
even a hand saw! With it, I made this, my first piece. A cabinet to
hold a bunch of phone books. http://www.bunchobikes.com/cabinet2.jpg
http://www.bunchobikes.com/cabinet3.jpg . As you can see from the
close-up, I had a few saw blade hiccups. Especially, that little gap on
the backside of the joint. But three kids, two dogs and four cats
later, that door is still nice and strong! Not so bad! I have since
"bulked" up on the wood tools and make stuff a little prettier! But
this very first effort, all done on that contractors table saw.
Mojo wrote:
>this is all great advice and thank you all. but this is my first
>attempt at anything that would resemble real woodworking. all my other
>projects have been very easy projects. I have the confidence for the
>raised panel but i don't think i can handle a mortise and tenon just
>yet. besides not having the tools i am not yet at that point in
>woodworking yet. if you got any other advice i would appreciate it as
>much as what you have already given me
>Thanks
>Dave
>
Have a look at those photo links I posted above. The mortise actually
ends up being the same groove that your panel will sit in. Right? You
gotta have a groove in your rails and stiles to sit the panel in. Well,
take your rails and buzz the proper amount off the ends to make a tenon
that will fit in the "groove" or mortise. That's the easy part. If
your ready to tackle a raised panel on your tablesaw, the rails and
stiles will be no problem!
did you use stub tennons or haunched mortis/tennons.
Tony D.
"Mark and Kim Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> RWM wrote:
>>
> After last playing with any kind of wood tools 15 years earlier, I got
> myself a wife, a house, a few pets and some kids. Looking at furniture
> prices, at the time, I told myself that I could spend less and make
> something of better quality myself. So I bought myself a contractors
> table saw. That's all I had besides the usual hammer and nails. Not
> even a hand saw! With it, I made this, my first piece. A cabinet to
> hold a bunch of phone books. http://www.bunchobikes.com/cabinet2.jpg
> http://www.bunchobikes.com/cabinet3.jpg . As you can see from the
> close-up, I had a few saw blade hiccups. Especially, that little gap on
> the backside of the joint. But three kids, two dogs and four cats
> later, that door is still nice and strong! Not so bad! I have since
> "bulked" up on the wood tools and make stuff a little prettier! But
> this very first effort, all done on that contractors table saw.
>
Never mind, I should have read the rest of the thread.
Sounds like stub tennons. That will work for what you want to do.
Thats all I used for this.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid94/pf0fcb2ba684714db603a4fe92848a121/fa37fba6.jpg
Tony D.
"Anthony Diodati" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> did you use stub tennons or haunched mortis/tennons.
> Tony D.
>
Yup, stub a dub, dub!
Anthony Diodati wrote:
>Never mind, I should have read the rest of the thread.
>Sounds like stub tennons. That will work for what you want to do.
>Thats all I used for this.
>http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid94/pf0fcb2ba684714db603a4fe92848a121/fa37fba6.jpg
>
> Tony D.
>
>"Anthony Diodati" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>did you use stub tennons or haunched mortis/tennons.
>> Tony D.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Assuming 3/4 stock
Make a 1/4 x 3/4" dep groove around the 4 inside edges of the peices
The on the 2 vertical peices - make 3/4" long x 1/4 thick tennons on the
ends
then fit it together.
Use your table saw at 15-25 degrees to make the panels.
DAGS - lots of examples out there.
Hope that helps.
"Mojo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making my first attempt at a raised panel door for a small cabinet
> to hang on the wall. I don't want to spend the money on the expensive
> bits to make it with. I don't have a biscuit jointer and again the money
> problem. does anyone have any good ideas for joinery for the rail and
> stiles?? I was thinkimg just a miter and glue but that doesn't seem to
> me to be strong enough. I have seen ones with an extra 1/4" panel on
> the inside but that may make the door to thick for me. any help at all
> would be greatly appreciated.
> TIA
> Dave
You mentoned mitering the frame members. You could so that then make a
simple jig the spline the miters. Its just a sliding fixture that rides your
fence and allows you to cuts slots through the end of the miters. Then you
glue in a spline and it makes a good strong joint. Attractive too if you use
contrasting woods. Then again theres always *gulp* dowels..............Whew
I cant believe I said that out loud.........
Jim
"Mojo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making my first attempt at a raised panel door for a small cabinet
> to hang on the wall. I don't want to spend the money on the expensive
> bits to make it with. I don't have a biscuit jointer and again the money
> problem. does anyone have any good ideas for joinery for the rail and
> stiles?? I was thinkimg just a miter and glue but that doesn't seem to
> me to be strong enough. I have seen ones with an extra 1/4" panel on
> the inside but that may make the door to thick for me. any help at all
> would be greatly appreciated.
> TIA
> Dave