ScRaPLeR wrote:
> Any Difference and do I need one or the other just starting out
> woodworking... ie. making new cabinet doors and general house
> repair/remodeling??
I think the Beismeyer is better. I've had a friend complain that the
Unifence has a little bit of flex at the far end of the fence (after
many years of use). He showed me, and sure enough, it did flex. He
ended up buying a Biesmeyer to replace it. Note, he had a unisaw, so
this was the heavy-duty unifence (they make beefier versions for the
unisaw vs the contractor's saw).
I have a biesmeyer and love it.
Supposedly, the selling points for the unifence are that you can slide
it forward to start a cut and you can rotating it for cutting thin
pieces. Can't say that I ever missed those features.
I cut thin stuff just fine on the Beisemeyer.
Note, I'm not saying the unifence is crap, as I'm sure it has many
happy users as well, but that's my slightly biased opinion.
I will respectfully have to disagree with you on this one. A POW 66
sells for around 2000.00 and you can buy an industrial 52" Beisemeeyer
fence system for less than $350.00...this is less than an 18% of the
cost of a new saw. Putting a precision Beisemeyer fence on a tablesaw
and replacing a jet lock fence is different from night and day. You
would be getting a saw that is a pleasure to work with and save you the
time and trouble of measuring each time you move the fence. "You get
what you pay for"...."ain't no secrets"...bringing down the cost would
only cheapen a good quality product......I have a certain amount of
time that I get to do woodworking for me.....I do not want to waste it
being frustrated.....besides I am worth it!!
Mike from American Sycamore
"Bob G." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> BUT to be truthful I stopped looking at fences the day I installed
> mine... SO there are most likely more then a few on the market
> today that are just as good.. (Can't figure how one could be
> better).... .
>
OK how about this. Dual encoders (one front and one rear) tell the micro
processor when the front and the rear of the fence are in exactly the same
spot. An entry on a key pad (Dust and water proof of course.) is all you
need to do to get and exact fence adjustment. Read out on control panel
also defines blade height and angle.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Ah, if only I had 440V and
> some place to put the stuff. :)
Getting the powe company to give you 440V is fairly easy, getting thenm to
run a third line so you can have 3 phase is pricy unless it is already on
the pole.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
Bob G. wrote:
> mine... SO there are most likely more then a few on the market
> today that are just as good.. (Can't figure how one could be
> better).... .
I've seen better. The Bies is the best thing I've ever seen on a consumer
saw, and I kinda wish I had one, but I've seen fences on industrial stuff
to make the Bies look downright flimsy. Of course, the stuff I'm thinking
of makes Unisaws look downright flimsy too. Ah, if only I had 440V and
some place to put the stuff. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
>
>I have a biesmeyer and love it.
>
>Supposedly, the selling points for the unifence are that you can slide
>it forward to start a cut and you can rotating it for cutting thin
>pieces. Can't say that I ever missed those features.
>I cut thin stuff just fine on the Beisemeyer.
>
>Note, I'm not saying the unifence is crap, as I'm sure it has many
>happy users as well, but that's my slightly biased opinion.
I agree on the Biesmeyer
My Bies has been in use now for close to 15 years and I have
never...not even once had any trouble with it..
BUT to be truthful I stopped looking at fences the day I installed
mine... SO there are most likely more then a few on the market
today that are just as good.. (Can't figure how one could be
better).... .
Bob G.
"Bob G." wrote:
...wrt Biesmeyer fences...
> .... (Can't figure how one could be better).... .
Bring cost down would be a real good way in my book...that's what kept
me away from all the replacements. (I have a roughly 25 year old (Gosh,
how can it <possibly> be so long already!) Model 66 and the fence is
"ok, but not great" but I can't see 25-30% the cost a a new saw for just
a fence... :(
[email protected] wrote:
>
> I will respectfully have to disagree with you on this one. A POW 66
> sells for around 2000.00 and you can buy an industrial 52" Beisemeeyer
> fence system for less than $350.00...this is less than an 18% of the
> cost of a new saw. ...
Yeah, I was still in the time warp of what I paid in (I think) '78 when
I wrote and didn't even think about it being wrong... :(
It (a Biesmeyer) may be worth it, I'm still unable to bring myself to
pop for that much w/ as many other things demanding $$ as there are...
If the Pow 66 fence is zero'ed, it's scale is close enough for the way I
make 99.44% of the cuts I make using the fence so it isn't a real time
factor from that view point. The thing I dislike about it most is that
it is tapered slightly from bottom to top so making auxiliary fences,
etc., is more of a pita than it should be...
ScRaPLeR wrote:
>
> Any Difference and do I need one or the other just starting out
> woodworking... ie. making new cabinet doors and general house
> repair/remodeling??
I've got a Unifence on my Unisaur and the biggest complaint I've got is
attaching anything to it. For that reason I'd go with the Biesemeyer
given the choice over. It appears (from the later New Yankee shows) that
Biesemeyer has added a cut-off fence attachment (to perform the same
function as sliding the Unifence) as well as an auxiliary fence that can
be used as a "sacrificial fence" for use with dados. See:
http://www.biesemeyer.com/products/accessories.htm
I'm probably going to upgrade to a Uni-T-Fence (from Might-T-Track) at
some point.
~Mark.
On 18 Jan 2005 13:12:33 -0800, "bf" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Supposedly, the selling points for the unifence are that you can slide
>it forward to start a cut and you can rotating it for cutting thin
>pieces. Can't say that I ever missed those features.
>I cut thin stuff just fine on the Beisemeyer.
>
>Note, I'm not saying the unifence is crap, as I'm sure it has many
>happy users as well, but that's my slightly biased opinion.
I tend to agree.
I have a Uni at home that I use when my Wife makes me and a Beisemeyer
on the job that I use every day. I would not take the Uni to the
job.
The Uni is accurate but the rail system is not as heavy as I'd like on
the job. Also, the Uni just seems to be over thought in it's design.
The feature of rotating the fence for narrow stock IMHO is a totally
useless feature and I have never used it. This also requires two
pointers on the measure indicator for use depending on which way the
fence is installed. Mine currently has a piece of tape over the
pointer I don't use.
The Uni also slides into the rail system from the front. It has a
heavy metal finger that goes into the groove on the front of the
rail, you then turn the handle which turns the finger so that the
fence cannot come out. To lock the fence you just push down on the
handle as you would expect. To remove the fence you release the
handle (pull up) and then you have to turn the handle so that the
finger is in proper position to be removed from the rail. I'm so used
to just lifting the Beisemeyer that the Uni now seems a pain.
Since the prices for these two fence systems is very comparable, (at
least on the Delta saw packages) I would (will) always go for the one
with the Beisemeyer.
Mike O.
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 22:11:35 -0800, "Roger Shoaf"
<[email protected]> wrote:
[snip]
|OK how about this. Dual encoders (one front and one rear) tell the micro
|processor when the front and the rear of the fence are in exactly the same
|spot.
How useful is a zero length fence? (Sorry, couldn't help myself)
For what your using it for, the unifence should be fine. Although
unifences do have a tendency to wear out where the lock mechanism catches
inside the front rail. I've only noticed this problem happening after
years of using the same measurements. ( In a cabinet shop, it's roughly the
18", 24" and 36") For part time woodworking, unifence should last for
years.
Beis is a good alternative.
Personally, i prefer Vega. Simple and very effective.
Hope this helps, --dave
"bf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> ScRaPLeR wrote:
>> Any Difference and do I need one or the other just starting out
>> woodworking... ie. making new cabinet doors and general house
>> repair/remodeling??
>
> I think the Beismeyer is better. I've had a friend complain that the
> Unifence has a little bit of flex at the far end of the fence (after
> many years of use). He showed me, and sure enough, it did flex. He
> ended up buying a Biesmeyer to replace it. Note, he had a unisaw, so
> this was the heavy-duty unifence (they make beefier versions for the
> unisaw vs the contractor's saw).
>
> I have a biesmeyer and love it.
>
> Supposedly, the selling points for the unifence are that you can slide
> it forward to start a cut and you can rotating it for cutting thin
> pieces. Can't say that I ever missed those features.
> I cut thin stuff just fine on the Beisemeyer.
>
> Note, I'm not saying the unifence is crap, as I'm sure it has many
> happy users as well, but that's my slightly biased opinion.
>
There are differences, but a good example of either type is sufficient. I
wouldn't worry about it.
The key is getting one that is well made so that it adjusts well and locks
firmly.
-j
"ScRaPLeR" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Any Difference and do I need one or the other just starting out
> woodworking... ie. making new cabinet doors and general house
> repair/remodeling??
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 19:57:48 GMT, ScRaPLeR <[email protected]>
wrote:
Thanks again to all who have provided input.......
all your suggestions are most helpfull especially to a newbie like
me...
Thanks agian
David