Best way to fix stripes in baltic birch

This is a sanding problem. A conditionaer/wash/sealer might help a bit
but sanding them out is the only real solution.

You can use a rag with mineral spirits to wipe the raw boards and see
what they'll look like finished, always a good step before staining. As
you sand out the bumps, you can check your progress by wiping again.

On 28 Dec 2004 21:23:23 -0800, "arw01" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>The following illustrates the problem:
>
>http://alan.firebin.net/images/cab_stripes1.jpg
>
>http://alan.firebin.net/images/cab_stripes2.jpg
>
>It was suggested on another mailing list to just sand the ply. I would
>rather find a conditioner or like to know if I cut Zinser 3lb clear
>shellac down to like 1/2# or 1/4# if that would "solve" the
>manufacturing problem when the sheets were made?
>
>These are the inside of drawer holders, and not going to be seen.
>Thanks
>Alan



looks like the factory drum sander marks to me. go out and get
yourself a good random orbit sander. I have the PC right angle one- it
works well, as do some others.

"arw01" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://alan.firebin.net/images/cab_stripes1.jpg
>
> http://alan.firebin.net/images/cab_stripes2.jpg
>
> It was suggested on another mailing list to just sand the ply. I would
> rather find a conditioner or like to know if I cut Zinser 3lb clear
> shellac down to like 1/2# or 1/4# if that would "solve" the
> manufacturing problem when the sheets were made?

Admitedly this dialup guy didn't wait for them to load completely, but are
you referring to the case-hardened areas (lighter, because less absorbent)
left you by the big drum sander? If so, try setting them up with water
prior to sanding.

An alcohol-based sealer would help on two levels, slowing absorbtion in the
non-burnished, and giving a mild water set to the burnished and hardened.

On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 08:13:19 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:


>Admitedly this dialup guy didn't wait for them to load completely

Doesn't matter, I'm on a 6-7 MB/s unrestricted DSL "test line", with
it's own OC3 back to a Global Service Provider POP, and it still took
a long time for the photo to paint. <G>

It's CLASSIC birch blotch.

>An alcohol-based sealer would help on two levels, slowing absorbtion in the
>non-burnished, and giving a mild water set to the burnished and hardened.

I always seal birch with full strength Seal Coat, and use high quality
Behlen's or Mohawk stains, which are dry brushed to even them out.
It would have prevented this problem as well.

Barry

This one needs some experimentation. The main issue is the type of stain
you're using. In general, that shellac washcoat you're suggesting will help,
and will probably do better than most conditioners. In general with this
issue, I take some scrap first and give it a light coat of 1/2# cut. Then give
4/5 of it another coat, then 3/5 another, and so on. I'll then apply the stain
and make a judgement. In a few cases, enough shellac to stop the problem also
results in the stain being too light. When that happens, I'll seal with more
shellac, and convert the stain to a toner and apply that. If you have little
or no pigment, that's the easiest way.
GerryG

On 28 Dec 2004 21:23:23 -0800, "arw01" <[email protected]> wrote:

>The following illustrates the problem:
>
>http://alan.firebin.net/images/cab_stripes1.jpg
>
>http://alan.firebin.net/images/cab_stripes2.jpg
>
>It was suggested on another mailing list to just sand the ply. I would
>rather find a conditioner or like to know if I cut Zinser 3lb clear
>shellac down to like 1/2# or 1/4# if that would "solve" the
>manufacturing problem when the sheets were made?
>
>These are the inside of drawer holders, and not going to be seen.
>Thanks
>Alan