I mostly use my bandsaw for curved work, but recently
I wanted to resaw a couple of thick boards, and having
a new 1/2" blade on hand set up the fence to do so.
The cut went fine for 3 or 4 inches, then the top started
to drift toward the fence, while the bottom stayed in line.
This of course twisted the blade and bound everything up.
Freehand the blade cuts fine, and doesn't seem to display
any lead angle. So I am a little mystified why it has a
problem with the fence, and why it drifts at the top of
the cut and not the bottom.
This is a Delta 14", not the ideal saw for resawing but
as I say I rarely do so, cutting stock about 5-1/2, with
the top guide set barely clear of the wood.
For want of any better explanation, I'm thinking I need
to angle the fence, but since there doesn't seem to be
any lead when cutting freehand, I'm not sure how to figure
out how much to angle it.
John
On Thu, 29 Dec 2016 19:36:16 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I mostly use my bandsaw for curved work, but recently
>I wanted to resaw a couple of thick boards, and having
>a new 1/2" blade on hand set up the fence to do so.
>
>The cut went fine for 3 or 4 inches, then the top started
>to drift toward the fence, while the bottom stayed in line.
>This of course twisted the blade and bound everything up.
>
>Freehand the blade cuts fine, and doesn't seem to display
>any lead angle. So I am a little mystified why it has a
>problem with the fence, and why it drifts at the top of
>the cut and not the bottom.
>
>This is a Delta 14", not the ideal saw for resawing but
>as I say I rarely do so, cutting stock about 5-1/2, with
>the top guide set barely clear of the wood.
>
>For want of any better explanation, I'm thinking I need
>to angle the fence, but since there doesn't seem to be
>any lead when cutting freehand, I'm not sure how to figure
>out how much to angle it.
>
From what I have read a 1/2" blade requires to much tension on a Delta
14". I have resawn using a 3/8" blade on mine, with good and bad
results.
Are you keeping the wood directly agains't the fence? My fence has an
extension that extends just a bit of a bubble near the blade so you
can adjust the wood.
On 12/29/2016 4:07 PM, Markem wrote:
> On Thu, 29 Dec 2016 19:36:16 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I mostly use my bandsaw for curved work, but recently
>> I wanted to resaw a couple of thick boards, and having
>> a new 1/2" blade on hand set up the fence to do so.
>>
>> The cut went fine for 3 or 4 inches, then the top started
>> to drift toward the fence, while the bottom stayed in line.
>> This of course twisted the blade and bound everything up.
>>
>> Freehand the blade cuts fine, and doesn't seem to display
>> any lead angle. So I am a little mystified why it has a
>> problem with the fence, and why it drifts at the top of
>> the cut and not the bottom.
>>
>> This is a Delta 14", not the ideal saw for resawing but
>> as I say I rarely do so, cutting stock about 5-1/2, with
>> the top guide set barely clear of the wood.
>>
>> For want of any better explanation, I'm thinking I need
>> to angle the fence, but since there doesn't seem to be
>> any lead when cutting freehand, I'm not sure how to figure
>> out how much to angle it.
>>
>
> From what I have read a 1/2" blade requires to much tension on a Delta
> 14". I have resawn using a 3/8" blade on mine, with good and bad
> results.
>
> Are you keeping the wood directly agains't the fence? My fence has an
> extension that extends just a bit of a bubble near the blade so you
> can adjust the wood.
>
Hmmm, all that resawing I do with a 1/2 must be wrong then. 1/2 works fine.
--
Jeff
On 12/29/2016 3:34 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 12/29/2016 1:36 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>> I mostly use my bandsaw for curved work, but recently
>> I wanted to resaw a couple of thick boards, and having
>> a new 1/2" blade on hand set up the fence to do so.
> ...
>
> Is this a full-length fence I gather? I only use a short fence for
> resaw that only constrains the distance from the blade right at that
> point--then you don't build any torsion as passing by from either side,
> the blade nor the work.
>
> It (the fence) is just a rounded roughly 3" thick piece of hardwood...
>
>
I have my saw and fence trued up so I stopped using a short fence, was
never happy with it. A long fence is definetly the way to go, no short
shit that allows you to wander back and forth.
--
Jeff
On 12/29/2016 2:36 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> I mostly use my bandsaw for curved work, but recently
> I wanted to resaw a couple of thick boards, and having
> a new 1/2" blade on hand set up the fence to do so.
>
> The cut went fine for 3 or 4 inches, then the top started
> to drift toward the fence, while the bottom stayed in line.
> This of course twisted the blade and bound everything up.
>
> Freehand the blade cuts fine, and doesn't seem to display
> any lead angle. So I am a little mystified why it has a
> problem with the fence, and why it drifts at the top of
> the cut and not the bottom.
>
> This is a Delta 14", not the ideal saw for resawing but
> as I say I rarely do so, cutting stock about 5-1/2, with
> the top guide set barely clear of the wood.
>
> For want of any better explanation, I'm thinking I need
> to angle the fence, but since there doesn't seem to be
> any lead when cutting freehand, I'm not sure how to figure
> out how much to angle it.
>
> John
>
Does this have a riser?
if so, are the wheels coplanar. I ask because on mine I had to remove
the pins to align, and if they are not coplanar you may have a twist in
the upper frame. This would cause the blade guides to be misaligned, as
well as the blade , on top it would follow perpendicular to the wheel.
So if twisted in it would track toward the frame, if twisted out it
would track away but only toward the top of the blade. The guide and
wheel at the bottom would be tracking straight.
If it is the case remove the pin and swing the top into total alignment
where it's coplanar all the way from the left side of the wheel to right
side.
If that's not it, check the guides on your adjustable arm, are they
turned at all? (doubtful that this is the problem.)
--
Jeff
On 12/30/2016 10:56 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:gIidnYNLbvr14vvFnZ2dnUU7-
> [email protected]:
>
>> 1. You might actually be letting the top of the board lean away from
>> the fence, it does happen.
>
> That did occur to me (as did the possibility that the edges
> I'd jointed weren't actually flat). I took great care on
> subsequent tries to make sure I wasn't letting the board
> lean away from the fence.
Even with square stock this can be difficult on some pieces of wood.
>
>> 2. Blade heat can cause it stretch and you loose tension. Loss of
>> blade tension can change blade tracking.
>
> I don't think I cut long enough to generate any heat.
Just running and not cutting will generate some heat but if your tension
gauge is staying steady that is probably not the issue.
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Does this have a riser?
> if so, are the wheels coplanar. I ask because on mine I had to
> remove
> the pins to align, and if they are not coplanar you may have a twist
> in the upper frame.
No, no riser. I remember now you describing that problem in
the group some while back.
The wheels were co-planar last time I checked. I should
probably check them again, tho, it has been a while.
John
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:gIidnYNLbvr14vvFnZ2dnUU7-
[email protected]:
> 1. You might actually be letting the top of the board lean away from
> the fence, it does happen.
That did occur to me (as did the possibility that the edges
I'd jointed weren't actually flat). I took great care on
subsequent tries to make sure I wasn't letting the board
lean away from the fence.
> 2. Blade heat can cause it stretch and you loose tension. Loss of
> blade tension can change blade tracking.
I don't think I cut long enough to generate any heat.
> 3. Lower guides are closer to the bottom of the cut, top guides are
> farther away from the top of the cut.
It's the reverse in this case - lower guide below the table,
of course, top guide maybe 1/4 inch above the wood.
> 4. Free hand allows the wood to move so that the blade can cut the way
> it wants to cut. A fence forces angle of attack on blade.
Well, this is what I ended up thinking, even tho I can't
really see any angle when freehanding. I'm think I just
need to use a rounded point fence with this blade, as you
and others are suggesting.
John
Markem <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> From what I have read a 1/2" blade requires to much tension on a Delta
> 14". I have resawn using a 3/8" blade on mine, with good and bad
> results.
As I mentioned, I don't do a lot of resawing, but I've never
seen a problem with a 1/2 blade, whether I set the tension by
the gauge, by the deflection technique, or by ear.
I have used a 3/4 blade on this saw, a long time ago, with
success, but I don't think you can really tension that size
properly (plus you have to remove the blade guard for clearance,
which isn't a great idea).
If I understand Duginske's book correctly, a 3/8 doesn't have
enough beam strength for resawing, and you're likely to get
barrel shaped cuts.
John
On 12/29/2016 1:36 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> I mostly use my bandsaw for curved work, but recently
> I wanted to resaw a couple of thick boards, and having
> a new 1/2" blade on hand set up the fence to do so.
>
> The cut went fine for 3 or 4 inches, then the top started
> to drift toward the fence, while the bottom stayed in line.
> This of course twisted the blade and bound everything up.
>
> Freehand the blade cuts fine, and doesn't seem to display
> any lead angle. So I am a little mystified why it has a
> problem with the fence, and why it drifts at the top of
> the cut and not the bottom.
>
> This is a Delta 14", not the ideal saw for resawing but
> as I say I rarely do so, cutting stock about 5-1/2, with
> the top guide set barely clear of the wood.
>
> For want of any better explanation, I'm thinking I need
> to angle the fence, but since there doesn't seem to be
> any lead when cutting freehand, I'm not sure how to figure
> out how much to angle it.
>
> John
>
Lots of reasons that this can happen.
1. You might actually be letting the top of the board lean away from
the fence, it does happen.
2. Blade heat can cause it stretch and you loose tension. Loss of
blade tension can change blade tracking.
3. Lower guides are closer to the bottom of the cut, top guides are
farther away from the top of the cut.
4. Free hand allows the wood to move so that the blade can cut the way
it wants to cut. A fence forces angle of attack on blade.
According to Laguna the cylinder/dowel fences used for re-sawing allows
the operator to compensate for this issue when the saw and blade are not
set up for optimal re-sawing and or if the saw and blade cannot hold
their tension and settings. Think of the dowel guide on the fence as a
crutch so that the operator can compensate.
On 12/29/2016 1:36 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> I mostly use my bandsaw for curved work, but recently
> I wanted to resaw a couple of thick boards, and having
> a new 1/2" blade on hand set up the fence to do so.
...
Is this a full-length fence I gather? I only use a short fence for
resaw that only constrains the distance from the blade right at that
point--then you don't build any torsion as passing by from either side,
the blade nor the work.
It (the fence) is just a rounded roughly 3" thick piece of hardwood...
"John McCoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I mostly use my bandsaw for curved work, but recently
> I wanted to resaw a couple of thick boards, and having
> a new 1/2" blade on hand set up the fence to do so.
>
> The cut went fine for 3 or 4 inches, then the top started
> to drift toward the fence, while the bottom stayed in line.
> This of course twisted the blade and bound everything up.
>
> Freehand the blade cuts fine, and doesn't seem to display
> any lead angle. So I am a little mystified why it has a
> problem with the fence, and why it drifts at the top of
> the cut and not the bottom.
>
> This is a Delta 14", not the ideal saw for resawing but
> as I say I rarely do so, cutting stock about 5-1/2, with
> the top guide set barely clear of the wood.
>
> For want of any better explanation, I'm thinking I need
> to angle the fence, but since there doesn't seem to be
> any lead when cutting freehand, I'm not sure how to figure
> out how much to angle it.
If there is no lead cutting freehand, then the fence is fine. Two
possibilities come to mind...
1. Stock isn't square, btm & fence side,
2. Guides are forcing the blade off course. Keep the as tight as possible,
keep them as low as possible.
"John McCoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> 4. Free hand allows the wood to move so that the blade can cut the way
>> it wants to cut. A fence forces angle of attack on blade.
>
> Well, this is what I ended up thinking, even tho I can't
> really see any angle when freehanding.
Wouldn't hurt to check, a small angle could have a considerable effect.
Also, make sure the face of the fence and the blade are perfectly parallel.