"BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw
Let me see if I have this right... you took a radial arm saw and put it over
a table saw to rip wood....OK got it...
What a waste of time and dangerous. Why not feed it from the other direction
while your at it so you don't have to spend any energy pushing the wood
being cut? Post that on Youtube!
On Apr 26, 1:47 am, "sweet sawdust" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I also just noticed the postion of your on/off switch, That could cause you
> a world of trouble.
A good observation, thanks.
However I have trained myself to slap the switch with my right hand.
I don't have to see it and my palm always hits the target.
(If it were a problem I would add another switch.)
Thanks again.
The TROLL
On Apr 25, 10:01 pm, "Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:a071453f-7a19-46f8-a747-0eca6b5e9337@w74g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > What is the basic difference between my setup with the blade above the
> > table than that of a table saw with the blade coming up from below?
>
> The arm, post, and motor in the way?
> A TS is wide open territory from the top. I can work from all sides. I can
> rip wider than a 48" sheet. I would like to see you cut a 4x8 sheet of
> plywood in 1/2 with your contraption!
> Can you safely run a 3/4" wide dado blade in that RAS? I doubt it! Not a
> problem with my TS.
> I have a RAS, it serves a purpose once in a while, but not very often!!
> Greg
> "One of the many not jumping on your "improved" RAS idea!!"
I rip big sheets on the floor with my 4 foot extension handled
circular saw and my homemade ripping guide.
I walk along as if I was using a hedge trimmer. Quite easy.
Much less lifting and much more convenient.
My 'contraption' is not able to do less than it was designed to do as
a RAS.
Indeed, it still is a RAS if I unlock the head.
I don't know how well a dado will work as I have not needed to use it.
However, if I can nibble it on my sled it would be easy.
How do you crosscut narrow boards on a TS without a sled?
Back to safety and kickback.
Have you seen the videos?
On Apr 27, 11:00 am, "Rich" <madeyoulook@localhost> wrote:
> "BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw
>
> Let me see if I have this right... you took a radial arm saw and put it over
> a table saw to rip wood....OK got it...
>
> What a waste of time and dangerous. Why not feed it from the other direction
> while your at it so you don't have to spend any energy pushing the wood
> being cut? Post that on Youtube!
"What a waste of time and dangerous." Why do you make this statement?
More dangerous than a table saw, radial saw, what?
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "BoyntonStu" wrote
>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw
>
> I'm sorry to say that this contraption, at least in its "upside down table
> saw" mode, appears to be an accident looking for a place to happen.
>
> Different strokes for different folks, and I'm just an average woodworker
> with an average understanding of woodworking tools and their (safe)
> operation, but do you have dreams of marketing this thing?
I hope his insurance company covers him when some one tries to copy and gets
hurt and then blames him. It all seems pointless. A RAS in good working
order will do the same with the normal table.
"BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Apr 25, 5:41 pm, Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote:
>> BoyntonStu wrote:
>> > A RAS in good working > order will do the same with the normal
>> > table.
>>
>> > In the rip position?
>>
>> If it was in good working order, it could be set in the rip or crosscut
>> position as intended.
>
> Radial Arm saws have a very bad reputation, especially for ripping.
>
> Emerson has sent out thousands of blade safety kits that must have
> cost them millions.
>
> You can safely pull through on a table saw.
>
> Why are there so many cautions against that on a RAS?
>
Because of people like you. Some people should net be allowed be near power
tools.
"BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:69f01661-2e03-4479-97f9-6b97a7bb4f9d@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>
> How do you crosscut narrow boards on a TS without a sled?
I don't, I use my DeWalt 12" power miter saw, or my properly tuned RAS, used
as designed.
>
>
> Back to safety and kickback.
>
> Have you seen the videos?
Yes, I have seen the videos, and I am still not impressed with your
contraption!
Greg
"BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a071453f-7a19-46f8-a747-0eca6b5e9337@w74g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>
> What is the basic difference between my setup with the blade above the
> table than that of a table saw with the blade coming up from below?
>
>
The arm, post, and motor in the way?
A TS is wide open territory from the top. I can work from all sides. I can
rip wider than a 48" sheet. I would like to see you cut a 4x8 sheet of
plywood in 1/2 with your contraption!
Can you safely run a 3/4" wide dado blade in that RAS? I doubt it! Not a
problem with my TS.
I have a RAS, it serves a purpose once in a while, but not very often!!
Greg
"One of the many not jumping on your "improved" RAS idea!!"
"BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ac8125b1-8af4-4869-bb1e-8dfcbad10536@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
>
> You still have a rip fence just like a
> normal RAS has eccept your contraption seems to have a much shorter
> fence
> than a regularly set up RAS would have.
>
> That IS the problem with a regularly set up RAS, the "infinite" rip
> fence.
>
> Shortening the rip fence to just beyond the cut will increase safety.
Your are kinda short sighted. If you let the board angle away grom the
fence it will bind with the blade and could cause kick back.
>
> That is exactly the point of why I chose to shorten it.
I seeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
>
> Do you understand why kickbacks occur?
Yup apparently you have found a new way to cause a kick back.
see: How to avoid kickbacks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVpGi85HfnY
>
> and
>
> Safer ripping with a short rip fence on the tablesaw
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7QXIN2X8-w
>
>
> Tell us what you think.
I think if the shorter fence prevented all kick backs they all would be
short. The short fence only reduces the risk of the wood binding between the
fence and the blade. With the shorter fence however you can now let the
wood move away from the fence pivoting at the blade and cause the bind
inside the kerf and get the same result.
"BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a071453f-7a19-46f8-a747-0eca6b5e9337@w74g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>I find the RAS to be a poor choice for ripping due to the blade
> position and
> you have not rectified that problem.
What have you done differently???? You still have a rip fence just like a
normal RAS has eccept your contraption seems to have a much shorter fence
than a regularly set up RAS would have.
>
> I am trying to understand this.
You do seem to be very confused.
>
> What is the basic difference between my setup with the blade above the
> table than that of a table saw with the blade coming up from below?
> What is wrong about the position?
>
> It can bevel in both directions and it can cut as deep as a table saw.
>
>
> The motor height is higher than my rip fence.
I think a you should look into an instructional class to learn how to use a
RAS properly and get some equipment that has not been "rigged"
"BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a071453f-7a19-46f8-a747-0eca6b5e9337@w74g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
>I find the RAS to be a poor choice for ripping due to the blade
> position and
> you have not rectified that problem.
>
> I am trying to understand this.
>
> What is the basic difference between my setup with the blade above the
> table than that of a table saw with the blade coming up from below?
>
> What is wrong about the position?
>
> It can bevel in both directions and it can cut as deep as a table saw.
>
>
> The motor height is higher than my rip fence.
On Ripping with the RAS, Post, arm and head are in a position where they
tend to get in the way of the worker unlike a table saw that is open on all
sides. The arm and post of the RAS do no allow as easy of access to use
push sticks which makes the operation in my opinion a little less safe and
easy. While these problems can be overcome to some degree they still are
there causing problems. The blade itself is a problem, with a TS you can
adjust the hight of the blade to barely clear the top of the wood. This
allows some degree of safety if you run your had over the blade while
cutting (minor injury instead loss of hand), Your set up keeps the entire
blade exposed giving more risk for major injury. One cause of kickback is
the distance from the front of the blade to the fence being wider then the
distance from the the back of the blade to the fence. In your set up the
blade/motor can twist/flex on the arm causing this problem and thus
kickback, also I am not real sure about the accuracy of your fence when it
is put on and taken off like you are doing. Another cause of kickback is
warped or twisted wood, with a TS you can overcome this by applying pressure
to the wood as it passes the blade (not a reccomend procedure) with your set
up you can not get to the wood to do this. As far as using a 3/4 inch dado
head in your set up I would not even think of trying it. Saw is to
underpowered to be safe that far out on the arm, arm has too much flex. JMHO
Curran Copeland
"BoyntonStu" wrote
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw
I'm sorry to say that this contraption, at least in its "upside down table
saw" mode, appears to be an accident looking for a place to happen.
Different strokes for different folks, and I'm just an average woodworker
with an average understanding of woodworking tools and their (safe)
operation, but do you have dreams of marketing this thing?
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
I find the RAS to be a poor choice for ripping due to the blade
position and
you have not rectified that problem.
I am trying to understand this.
What is the basic difference between my setup with the blade above the
table than that of a table saw with the blade coming up from below?
What is wrong about the position?
It can bevel in both directions and it can cut as deep as a table saw.
The motor height is higher than my rip fence.
"BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A RAS in good working > order will do the same with the normal
> table.
>
> In the rip position?
>
Absolutely. Unless you have tampered with or screw up the saw this should
not be a problem. I used on for about 7 years.
You still have a rip fence just like a
normal RAS has eccept your contraption seems to have a much shorter
fence
than a regularly set up RAS would have.
That IS the problem with a regularly set up RAS, the "infinite" rip
fence.
Shortening the rip fence to just beyond the cut will increase safety.
That is exactly the point of why I chose to shorten it.
Do you understand why kickbacks occur?
see: How to avoid kickbacks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVpGi85HfnY
and
Safer ripping with a short rip fence on the tablesaw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7QXIN2X8-w
Tell us what you think.
On Apr 25, 5:41 pm, Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote:
> BoyntonStu wrote:
> > A RAS in good working > order will do the same with the normal
> > table.
>
> > In the rip position?
>
> If it was in good working order, it could be set in the rip or crosscut
> position as intended.
Radial Arm saws have a very bad reputation, especially for ripping.
Emerson has sent out thousands of blade safety kits that must have
cost them millions.
You can safely pull through on a table saw.
Why are there so many cautions against that on a RAS?
On Apr 25, 6:30 pm, Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote:
> BoyntonStu wrote:
> > On Apr 25, 5:41 pm, Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> BoyntonStu wrote:
> >>> A RAS in good working > order will do the same with the normal
> >>> table.
> >>> In the rip position?
> >> If it was in good working order, it could be set in the rip or crosscut
> >> position as intended.
>
> > Radial Arm saws have a very bad reputation, especially for ripping.
>
> > Emerson has sent out thousands of blade safety kits that must have
> > cost them millions.
>
> > You can safely pull through on a table saw.
>
> > Why are there so many cautions against that on a RAS?
>
> The Sears recall had nothing to do with cross cutting, but an improved
> blade guard. I don't know that there are "so many cautions against that
> on a RAS". I haven't seen any reputable source cautioning against
> crosscutting. I have heard folks recommend an improper method by saying
> to pull the powerhead out, place the workpiece between the fence and
> blade and crosscut on the push stroke - a really bad idea. I've been
> using a RAS for 37 years in my home shop, first a Wards PowrKraft and
> now a Sears. With proper adjustment, tuning and technique, there are no
> issues with cross cutting using the RAS. The newer Craftsman RAS with
> "Control Cut" offers an extra margin of safety for cross cutting by use
> of a motor controlled cable that only allows the powerhead to advance at
> a set, but adjustable speed. Ripping on a RAS is also not a dangerous
> operation with a properly adjusted/tuned saw, proper technique and hold
> downs, push sticks, etc if required depending on the material and
> dimensions being ripped.
>
> From your initial posts, it has been apparent that your RAS is not in
> good operating condition, probably because of improper adjustment and
> tuning, and that is why you use it with the power head locked in the rip
> position and go to all these contortions to compensate.
Yes, I agree with most of what you say except RAS ripping.
A fixed saw position means that the blade cannot run.
I chose to compensate because of my good experience with my crosscut
slide table on the Delta Table saw.
When the Delta motor died, I obtained the RAS for a very low price.
After I disassembled the head, cleaned and lubricated all moving parts
and bearings, and finally tightened all play, I was still not
satisfied.
The saw locked in the outrip position offers many advantages.
I can crosscut 27" without any problem with my slide table.
My rips using the shortened fence are very easy and I have not noticed
any tendency for kickback.
I always use the splitter and always adjust the pawls and lower the
guard to just above the stock.
See " kickback" on uoutube and you will see a master woodworker from
England explain his theory about short rip fences.
I tried his method and he is correct AFAIK.
Basically, after the cut, there is no need for the fence, and the cut
piece is too far from the original fence to bind.
.
On Sat, 26 Apr 2008 04:10:43 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>RE: Subject
>
>Can we all spell "T-R-O-L-L"
>
>Lew
>
Google him.
He posts clever messages based on small, but controversial details to
suck NG users in. Examples:
- Using airplane radio control frequencies on a land r/c. (R/c pilots
get really fired up over this)
- Woodworking "safety"
- Some ridiculous home repair ideas
- Metalworking "safety"
etc...
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
I fail to understand why you have gone to all of this trouble to modify your
RAS in this manor. I understand that the saw had some mechanical problems,
but it seems that they could have been fixed much easier then what you have
made. I have preformed all of the cuts you have written about on a
unmodified RAS, including the use of jigs and sleds for special cuts. I
find the RAS to be a poor choice for ripping due to the blade position and
you have not rectified that problem. I also find that the Craftsman RAS arm
will flex under load at the position you have it, this tends to cause kick
back. That being said I find your modified RAS interesting but don't think I
will be modifying mine to your specs. Have fun with it.
"BoyntonStu" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "BoyntonStu" wrote
>
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upDrKjY0adw
>
> I'm sorry to say that this contraption, at least in its "upside down table
> saw" mode, appears to be an accident looking for a place to happen.
>
> Different strokes for different folks, and I'm just an average woodworker
> with an average understanding of woodworking tools and their (safe)
> operation, but do you have dreams of marketing this thing?
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 3/27/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
When I worked in a truss shop we would occasionally have to use a radial arm
saw with the saw turned/aligned with the fence, the blade tilted and push
through bottom cords to bevel for valleys when the table saw was down. I
never saw any injuries but I'm not sure what OSHA would say.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:7XxQj.301$PY5.46@trnddc01...
> RE: Subject
>
> Can we all spell "T-R-O-L-L"
>
> Lew
>
>
Maybe, but I think he is a delusional person thinking he has the best power
tool ever designed!
Greg
BoyntonStu wrote:
> On Apr 25, 5:41 pm, Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote:
>> BoyntonStu wrote:
>>> A RAS in good working > order will do the same with the normal
>>> table.
>>> In the rip position?
>> If it was in good working order, it could be set in the rip or crosscut
>> position as intended.
>
> Radial Arm saws have a very bad reputation, especially for ripping.
>
> Emerson has sent out thousands of blade safety kits that must have
> cost them millions.
>
> You can safely pull through on a table saw.
>
> Why are there so many cautions against that on a RAS?
>
The Sears recall had nothing to do with cross cutting, but an improved
blade guard. I don't know that there are "so many cautions against that
on a RAS". I haven't seen any reputable source cautioning against
crosscutting. I have heard folks recommend an improper method by saying
to pull the powerhead out, place the workpiece between the fence and
blade and crosscut on the push stroke - a really bad idea. I've been
using a RAS for 37 years in my home shop, first a Wards PowrKraft and
now a Sears. With proper adjustment, tuning and technique, there are no
issues with cross cutting using the RAS. The newer Craftsman RAS with
"Control Cut" offers an extra margin of safety for cross cutting by use
of a motor controlled cable that only allows the powerhead to advance at
a set, but adjustable speed. Ripping on a RAS is also not a dangerous
operation with a properly adjusted/tuned saw, proper technique and hold
downs, push sticks, etc if required depending on the material and
dimensions being ripped.
From your initial posts, it has been apparent that your RAS is not in
good operating condition, probably because of improper adjustment and
tuning, and that is why you use it with the power head locked in the rip
position and go to all these contortions to compensate.
On Sat, 26 Apr 2008 17:09:14 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"B A R R Y" wrote:
>
>> Google him.
>
>More trouble than it's worth.
>
You are apparently lucky enough to not participate in conference
calls. <G>
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------