I see sets of each type that cover roughly the same dimensions (1/8"
to 1"). I know Forstners are for truly flat-bottomed holes, and
brad-points don't walk compared to regular twist drill bits ... aside
from that, are advantages of one type over another?
If you could have a set of only 1 type for woodworking, which would
you have?
If you could have 2 sets, which would you drop?
Are there any specific sizes that are must-have for woodworking?
Thanks,
Michael
I wouldn't have spade bits; I prefer carbide brad bits foor almost all
work but will use a Forstners when I have to. Forstners takes a drill
press so is kind of a bother. Try using a Forstners in a hand drill
and you will have an interesting time.
On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 09:57:07 -0500, Michael Press
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I see sets of each type that cover roughly the same dimensions (1/8"
>to 1"). I know Forstners are for truly flat-bottomed holes, and
>brad-points don't walk compared to regular twist drill bits ... aside
>from that, are advantages of one type over another?
>
>If you could have a set of only 1 type for woodworking, which would
>you have?
>If you could have 2 sets, which would you drop?
>Are there any specific sizes that are must-have for woodworking?
>
>Thanks,
>Michael
Wondered about that myself which is why I bought carbide. Bought them
from HF 8 years ago and they were a good investment.
On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 10:25:11 -0600, Lawrence A. Ramsey
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I wouldn't have spade bits; I prefer carbide brad bits foor almost all
>work but will use a Forstners when I have to. Forstners takes a drill
>press so is kind of a bother. Try using a Forstners in a hand drill
>and you will have an interesting time.
>
>
>
>On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 09:57:07 -0500, Michael Press
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>I see sets of each type that cover roughly the same dimensions (1/8"
>>to 1"). I know Forstners are for truly flat-bottomed holes, and
>>brad-points don't walk compared to regular twist drill bits ... aside
>>from that, are advantages of one type over another?
>>
>>If you could have a set of only 1 type for woodworking, which would
>>you have?
>>If you could have 2 sets, which would you drop?
>>Are there any specific sizes that are must-have for woodworking?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Michael
First get yourself a good set of brad point bits going up to 1/2". That will
handle the majority of your drilling work.
Then buy yourself a good set of forstner bits for the larger size holes.
I've got the spade bits also, but rarely use them. Spade bits are for more
rough work than I usually do.
Gary
"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I see sets of each type that cover roughly the same dimensions (1/8"
> to 1"). I know Forstners are for truly flat-bottomed holes, and
> brad-points don't walk compared to regular twist drill bits ... aside
> from that, are advantages of one type over another?
>
> If you could have a set of only 1 type for woodworking, which would
> you have?
> If you could have 2 sets, which would you drop?
> Are there any specific sizes that are must-have for woodworking?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
"brocpuffs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 16:14:13 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
> People who favor brad points
>
> I like them very much too, but how the heck can you resharpen those?!
>
> All the fancy drill re sharpeners I've seen are for twist drills only-
>
> James
> [email protected]
>
I use an auger bit file.
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/product.asp?0=0&1=0&3=2597
Just don't let 'em get too dull, and it only takes a minute or so.
Henry Bibb
I've used a 7/8" Freud carbid tipped Forstner in a Dewalt 3/8" drill and
it worked without any difficulty whatsoever.
Bob
"Lawrence A. Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I wouldn't have spade bits; I prefer carbide brad bits foor almost all
> work but will use a Forstners when I have to. Forstners takes a drill
> press so is kind of a bother. Try using a Forstners in a hand drill
> and you will have an interesting time.
>
>
>
> On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 09:57:07 -0500, Michael Press
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >I see sets of each type that cover roughly the same dimensions (1/8"
> >to 1"). I know Forstners are for truly flat-bottomed holes, and
> >brad-points don't walk compared to regular twist drill bits ... aside
> >from that, are advantages of one type over another?
> >
> >If you could have a set of only 1 type for woodworking, which would
> >you have?
> >If you could have 2 sets, which would you drop?
> >Are there any specific sizes that are must-have for woodworking?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Michael
>
On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 16:14:13 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
wrote:
People who favor brad points
I like them very much too, but how the heck can you resharpen those?!
All the fancy drill re sharpeners I've seen are for twist drills only-
James
[email protected]
"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> I see sets of each type that cover roughly the same dimensions (1/8"
> to 1"). I know Forstners are for truly flat-bottomed holes, and
> brad-points don't walk compared to regular twist drill bits ... aside
> from that, are advantages of one type over another?
Twist would be the least-expensive, most utilitarian.
>
> If you could have a set of only 1 type for woodworking, which would
> you have?
Brad points.
> If you could have 2 sets, which would you drop?
Keep Brad and Forstner, drop twist.
> Are there any specific sizes that are must-have for woodworking?
I think this is one time where a "set" is pretty useful. I'd go for 1/8" to
1/2" by 1/32nds for a start.
See either Lee Valley or Bits N Bores.com
On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 11:47:50 -0500, brocpuffs <[email protected]>
brought forth from the murky depths:
>On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 16:14:13 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>People who favor brad points
>
>I like them very much too, but how the heck can you resharpen those?!
>
>All the fancy drill re sharpeners I've seen are for twist drills only-
With auger files or tapered diamond files. Lee Valley has
a sweet little auger bit file: 62W08.01 $8.50USD
--
REMEMBER: First you pillage, then you burn.
---
http://diversify.com Full Service Website Development
On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 10:25:11 -0600, Lawrence A. Ramsey
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I wouldn't have spade bits; I prefer carbide brad bits foor almost all
>work but will use a Forstners when I have to. Forstners takes a drill
>press so is kind of a bother. Try using a Forstners in a hand drill
>and you will have an interesting time.
I use forstners in a hand drill all of the time. the only place I
could see having problems is when you need to make a cut with a
significant part of the rim not contacting- an angled hole (pocket
hole style) or where the bit is hanging over the edge quite a ways.
if I need better accuracy than I can count on by hand I'll use the
drill press or a drill guide if the workpiece is too big for the
press.
as far as the OP's question, the different kinds of bits are for
different purposes. there is some overlap of function, but generally
you should get the ones you need first, first. of the ones you listed,
the forstners are the most expensive, so will likely be the last
purchased, depending on your work.
bridger
>
>
>
>On Mon, 09 Feb 2004 09:57:07 -0500, Michael Press
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>I see sets of each type that cover roughly the same dimensions (1/8"
>>to 1"). I know Forstners are for truly flat-bottomed holes, and
>>brad-points don't walk compared to regular twist drill bits ... aside
>>from that, are advantages of one type over another?
>>
>>If you could have a set of only 1 type for woodworking, which would
>>you have?
>>If you could have 2 sets, which would you drop?
>>Are there any specific sizes that are must-have for woodworking?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Michael