Watched an old NYW today where Norm used some recycled pine boards
(From an old barn) to build a circular table of perhaps 32"-36"
diameter.
The board for the top was in the neighborhood of 12" wide and cupped.
Norm's solution was to kerf each board about 1/2-2/3 thru,
then run them thru the planer allowing the infeed rollers on the
planer
to flatten the board as they went thru the planer.
The jointer and table saw were then used to square up the stock to
prepare for glue up using biscuits.
Prior to glue up the kerf cuts were filled with thickened epoxy and
allowed to cure.
When the epoxy was cured the glue up was completed and allowed to
cure.
Light sanding prepared the rectangular blank for circular cut out
using shop made
band saw jig for cutting out circles.
Now for the questions.
1) Why would you use kerf cuts to make a table top, especially epoxy
filled kerf cuts.
No matter what you do, those filled kerfs are going to show in the
finished piece.
IMHO, no matter what you try to do to hide the kerfs, they are going
to look like ugly
on an ape.
YMMV
Why not just rip the wide boards in half, machine square and
reassemble using standard
glue up techniques?
Done correctly, a flying red horse at 5 ft won't be able to see the
joint.
2) Never have figured out how to position a square blank on Norm's
band saw circle cutting
jig to start the cut without having the blank bind the saw blade.
In the example above, we are talking about an approximate 36" square
blank
yielding about a 32" circle.
What am I missing?
Lew
On Apr 13, 9:55=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I wrote:
> > That requires a visible layout on the top side while the pivot is on
> > the bottom side.
>
> > Seems kind of trickey to me.
>
> --------------------------------------
>
> "RicodJour" wrote:
> > I have a number of neodymium magnets of different diameters and
>
> strengths. =A0You can pop one in the hole and very easily find dead
> center on the other side.
> ------------------------------
> Near as I can tell, Norm didn't have any of those and he didn't have a
> layout line to follow.
>
> Back to the basic question.
The two NYW videos for that table are on YouTube. There are other odd
things in there. When he's cutting out the circle on the bandsaw you
can see that he'd already cut the other side, but there's a squared-
off discontinuity which I couldn't quite make out whether it was from
the original glue up, or if he cut off some bits to allow the thing to
fit on the bandsaw. It's also odd that the other side he cut would
almost have to mean that he either flipped the top (not likely), have
a double-edged bandsaw blade (are there such things?) or something
else.
In other words, your two questions raise a lot more.
R
I wrote:
> That requires a visible layout on the top side while the pivot is on
> the bottom side.
>
> Seems kind of trickey to me.
--------------------------------------
"RicodJour" wrote:
> I have a number of neodymium magnets of different diameters and
strengths. You can pop one in the hole and very easily find dead
center on the other side.
------------------------------
Near as I can tell, Norm didn't have any of those and he didn't have a
layout line to follow.
Back to the basic question.
Lew
>> Back to the basic question.
-----------------------------------
"RicodJour" wrote:
>The two NYW videos for that table are on YouTube. There are other
>odd
things in there. When he's cutting out the circle on the bandsaw you
can see that he'd already cut the other side, but there's a squared-
off discontinuity which I couldn't quite make out whether it was from
the original glue up, or if he cut off some bits to allow the thing to
fit on the bandsaw. It's also odd that the other side he cut would
almost have to mean that he either flipped the top (not likely), have
a double-edged bandsaw blade (are there such things?) or something
else.
In other words, your two questions raise a lot more.
-------------------------------------
The more I think about this project, the less suited the bandsaw
becomes.
Think I would have the retangular blank bottom side up, then scribe a
circle 3/8" proud using a trammel point, followed by trimming to the
line with a saber saw.
Then drill the 1/4" dia. pilot hole to accept a circle jig for a
plunge router and a 3/4" straight bit to finish piece to size.
Edge treatment of choice to complete.
Lew
"RicodJour" wrote:
> I agree that an oversize piece in a bandsaw is doable but dubious,
> but
why not do it in one shot with one tool?
-------------------------------
Personal preference.
Trying to get a finish cut while hogging out a full 3/4" dia. of
material in one pass is more than I can do.
Try to limit finish cuts to less than 1/2".
Lew
"basilisk" wrote:
> The way I do this is to drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the center
> of the blank to accept a guide pin that rides in a slotted channel
> mounted on the bandsaw table, the pin can be spaced out as far
> as needed with waste strips of wood but is free to move out as
> far as the lenght of the slot.
> You can easily cut any size round from any size square blank by
> quickly feeding in the blank as you turn it until you hit the stop.
>
> Hope that made sense.
----------------------------------
Makes sense except for one thing.
The pivot point on Norm's jig is FIXED.
Back to the drawing board.
Lew
> basilisk
"Larry W" wrote:
> Instead of all that conjecturing and fooling around with bandsaw
> circle jigs, for a circle 32" in diameter you can make a simple jig
> out of scrap and do a _perfect_ job on a tablesaw in about 20
minutes (or less)
-----------------------------------
I wrote:
>Safety!!!
-------------------------------------
"Larry W" wrote:
> Except insofar as a bandsaw is inherently safer than a table saw,
> with normal precautions safety will not be an issue.
------------------------------------------------
I respectfully disagree.
The work piece is not restrained from rotating except by the
operator's hands.
Any slight rotary movement of the work piece and you have a kick back
waiting to happen, especially when the kick back pawls do not come
into play.
NOT in my shop.
After each corner is clipped, the work piece is pulled back out after
the cut.
Again you have a disaster waiting to happen.
If on the other hand, the work piece is fed completely past the saw
blade,
then lifted from the sled and repositioned on the pivot pin after the
sled is
returned to the start position, you run the risk of enlarging the
pivot hole.
An enlarged pivot hole allows for possible lateral movement of the
work piece
which will result in kick back.
Again, NOT in my shop.
A table saw does a lot of things well, cutting a circular work piece
isn't one of
them IMHO.
Lew
"Kerry Montgomery" wrote:
> May have missed the beginning of this thread, but have made a few
> ~48" diameter wooden circles using a router and a wooden arm that
> fit over a pin at the center of the circle and that the router base
> bolted to at circumference of the circle.
-------------------------
This thread started when I questioned how Norm got the cut started
using his circle cutting jig for his band saw.
Earlier conversations pretty much came to the conclusion that a plunge
router with a circle jig as you describe above, will probably give the
best results.
Lew
"Larry W" wrote:
>
> Lew, your objections are rationally described and noted and I
> respect your
> opinion. However, it would only be necessary to try the method ONCE
> to
> realize they are nevertheless unfounded. A table saw using the
> method or
> jig described, does an excellent, and safe, job of cutting a circle,
> and
> a _better_ job than can be done with a bandsaw. IMHO
---------------------------------
I guess we will just have to agree to disagree on this one.
BTW, my basic question still remains unanswered.
Using Norm's jig, how does he get the cut started on a band saw?
Lew
On Wed, 13 Apr 2011 17:26:59 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Jerry - OHIO" wrote:
>
>> He starts on a flat & cuts slow to start the cut then drops it on
>> the
>> pin. Only way I was able to do a 4 footer!
>--------------------------------
>That requires a visible layout on the top side while the pivot is on
>the bottom side.
>
>Seems kind of trickey to me.
>
>Lew
>
Cut the kerf for the bandsaw blade to enter using a saber saw or
circular saw, when the layout side is face up, before mounting it on
the bandsaw.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
On Apr 13, 8:26=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Jerry - OHIO" wrote:
> > He starts on a flat & cuts slow to start the cut then drops it on
> > the
> > pin. Only way I was able to do a 4 footer!
>
> --------------------------------
> That requires a visible layout on the top side while the pivot is on
> the bottom side.
>
> Seems kind of trickey to me.
I have a number of neodymium magnets of different diameters and
strengths. You can pop one in the hole and very easily find dead
center on the other side.
R
On Apr 13, 11:51=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Back to the basic question.
>
> -----------------------------------
>
> "RicodJour" wrote:
> >The two NYW videos for that table are on YouTube. =A0There are other
> >odd
>
> things in there. =A0When he's cutting out the circle on the bandsaw you
> can see that he'd already cut the other side, but there's a squared-
> off discontinuity which I couldn't quite make out whether it was from
> the original glue up, or if he cut off some bits to allow the thing to
> fit on the bandsaw. =A0It's also odd that the other side he cut would
> almost have to mean that he either flipped the top (not likely), have
> a double-edged bandsaw blade (are there such things?) or something
> else.
>
> In other words, your two questions raise a lot more.
> -------------------------------------
> The more I think about this project, the less suited the bandsaw
> becomes.
>
> Think I would have the retangular blank bottom side up, then scribe a
> circle 3/8" proud using a trammel point, followed by trimming to the
> line with a saber saw.
>
> Then =A0drill the 1/4" dia. pilot hole to accept a circle jig for a
> plunge router and a 3/4" straight bit to finish piece to size.
>
> Edge treatment of choice to complete.
I agree that an oversize piece in a bandsaw is doable but dubious, but
why not do it in one shot with one tool? Lay the thing on a
sacrificial surface and use a 1/2" bit with the router on a trammel
base. The edges are going to get some routed treatment anyway.
R
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Larry W" wrote:
>> Instead of all that conjecturing and fooling around with bandsaw
>> circle jigs, for a circle 32" in diameter you can make a simple jig
>> out of scrap and do a _perfect_ job on a tablesaw in about 20
> minutes (or less)
> -----------------------------------
> I wrote:
>
>>Safety!!!
> -------------------------------------
> "Larry W" wrote:
>
>> Except insofar as a bandsaw is inherently safer than a table saw,
>> with normal precautions safety will not be an issue.
> ------------------------------------------------
> I respectfully disagree.
>
> The work piece is not restrained from rotating except by the operator's
> hands.
>
> Any slight rotary movement of the work piece and you have a kick back
> waiting to happen, especially when the kick back pawls do not come into
> play.
>
> NOT in my shop.
>
> After each corner is clipped, the work piece is pulled back out after the
> cut.
>
> Again you have a disaster waiting to happen.
>
> If on the other hand, the work piece is fed completely past the saw blade,
> then lifted from the sled and repositioned on the pivot pin after the sled
> is
> returned to the start position, you run the risk of enlarging the pivot
> hole.
>
> An enlarged pivot hole allows for possible lateral movement of the work
> piece
> which will result in kick back.
>
> Again, NOT in my shop.
>
> A table saw does a lot of things well, cutting a circular work piece isn't
> one of
> them IMHO.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
May have missed the beginning of this thread, but have made a few ~48"
diameter wooden circles using a router and a wooden arm that fit over a pin
at the center of the circle and that the router base bolted to at
circumference of the circle.
Kerry
In article <[email protected]>,
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
>Watched an old NYW today where Norm used some recycled pine boards
>(From an old barn) to build a circular table of perhaps 32"-36"
>diameter.
>
>The board for the top was in the neighborhood of 12" wide and cupped.
>
>Norm's solution was to kerf each board about 1/2-2/3 thru,
>then run them thru the planer allowing the infeed rollers on the
>planer
>to flatten the board as they went thru the planer.
>
>The jointer and table saw were then used to square up the stock to
>prepare for glue up using biscuits.
>
>Prior to glue up the kerf cuts were filled with thickened epoxy and
>allowed to cure.
>
>When the epoxy was cured the glue up was completed and allowed to
>cure.
>
>Light sanding prepared the rectangular blank for circular cut out
>using shop made
>band saw jig for cutting out circles.
>
>Now for the questions.
>
>1) Why would you use kerf cuts to make a table top, especially epoxy
>filled kerf cuts.
>
>No matter what you do, those filled kerfs are going to show in the
>finished piece.
>
>IMHO, no matter what you try to do to hide the kerfs, they are going
>to look like ugly
>on an ape.
>
>YMMV
>
>Why not just rip the wide boards in half, machine square and
>reassemble using standard
>glue up techniques?
>
>Done correctly, a flying red horse at 5 ft won't be able to see the
>joint.
>
>2) Never have figured out how to position a square blank on Norm's
>band saw circle cutting
>jig to start the cut without having the blank bind the saw blade.
>
>In the example above, we are talking about an approximate 36" square
>blank
>yielding about a 32" circle.
>
>What am I missing?
>
>Lew
>
>
Lew, I'm shocked! I never thought I would see you say that epoxy was NOT
the best way to fix something! :)
--
Often wrong, never in doubt.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jerry - OHIO" wrote:
>
>> Didn't he put the kerf side down ?
> ---------------------------------------
> Of course, but my comments were directed toward the vertical surface.
>
> No matter how you approach it, the filled kerf will be visible on the
> table edge.
>
> Lew
>
>
Bread board. Yes, I know it was a circular table. Makes for a more
interesting design and build.
Instead of all that conjecturing and fooling around with bandsaw circle
jigs, for a circle 32" in diameter you can make a simple jig out of scrap
and do a _perfect_ job on a tablesaw in about 20 minutes (or less)
Here's the 1st result from google:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wxbzrf4z_cg
If you don't have a sliding table, an alternate method is to start with
the blade lowered and gradually raise it as you cut the circle out.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
In article <[email protected]>,
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Larry W" wrote:
>
>> Instead of all that conjecturing and fooling around with bandsaw
>> circle
>> jigs, for a circle 32" in diameter you can make a simple jig out of
>> scrap
>> and do a _perfect_ job on a tablesaw in about 20 minutes (or less)
>-----------------------------------
>Safety!!!
>
>Lew
>
>
>
Except insofar as a bandsaw is inherently safer than a table saw,
with normal precautions safety will not be an issue.
--
Make it as simple as possible, but not simpler. (Albert Einstein)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
In article <[email protected]>,
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
>
<...other stuff snipped...>
>Again, NOT in my shop.
>
>A table saw does a lot of things well, cutting a circular work piece
>isn't one of
>them IMHO.
>
>Lew
>
>
>
Lew, your objections are rationally described and noted and I respect your
opinion. However, it would only be necessary to try the method ONCE to
realize they are nevertheless unfounded. A table saw using the method or
jig described, does an excellent, and safe, job of cutting a circle, and
a _better_ job than can be done with a bandsaw. IMHO
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
On Sat, 9 Apr 2011 21:57:44 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
> 2) Never have figured out how to position a square blank on Norm's
> band saw circle cutting
> jig to start the cut without having the blank bind the saw blade.
>
> In the example above, we are talking about an approximate 36" square
> blank
> yielding about a 32" circle.
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Lew
The way I do this is to drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the center
of the blank to accept a guide pin that rides in a slotted channel
mounted on the bandsaw table, the pin can be spaced out as far
as needed with waste strips of wood but is free to move out as
far as the lenght of the slot.
You can easily cut any size round from any size square blank by
quickly feeding in the blank as you turn it until you hit the stop.
Hope that made sense.
basilisk