Greetings,
Having fixed the Yankee with a little help from my friends, it's time to
work on my latest eBay find, a baker's dozen of Russell Jennings bits. Yum.
Some previous owner cared enough to try to sharpen them. Alas, he seems
to have been a botcher. All the larger bits' cutting lips have been
refiled from the top. His file left a channel between the lead screws and
the spurs. There's an angled land left at the base of the lead screw,
which shortens the cutting edge of the lip. This is happening beyond the
end of the lead screw's thread. Fortunately the smaller bits were too
small for his file. A slip of wet-n-dry folded over a sliver of wood has
put them in good shape.
I want to know if a dremel grinder (I don't have one) could get in
there and nibble down the base of the lead screw to meet the rest of the
lip. There's not room for a file or stone; has to be rotary.
Anybody tried this?
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
Australopithecus scobis [email protected]
wrt reducing mis-filed auger bit.
>There's not room for a file or stone; has to be rotary.
>
? Why can't you grind a small flat or three-corner file for a safe edge (no
teeth) that will skate on top of the cutter lip as it reduces the excess metal
beyond the thread of the spur?
There are a great variety of die sinker's files. Might have some candidates for
producing the same result.
Frank Morrison
jewelers files?
Australopithecus scobis <[email protected]> wrote:
>Greetings,
> Having fixed the Yankee with a little help from my friends, it's time to
>work on my latest eBay find, a baker's dozen of Russell Jennings bits. Yum.
>
> Some previous owner cared enough to try to sharpen them. Alas, he seems
>to have been a botcher. All the larger bits' cutting lips have been
>refiled from the top. His file left a channel between the lead screws and
>the spurs. There's an angled land left at the base of the lead screw,
>which shortens the cutting edge of the lip. This is happening beyond the
>end of the lead screw's thread. Fortunately the smaller bits were too
>small for his file. A slip of wet-n-dry folded over a sliver of wood has
>put them in good shape.
>
> I want to know if a dremel grinder (I don't have one) could get in
>there and nibble down the base of the lead screw to meet the rest of the
>lip. There's not room for a file or stone; has to be rotary.
>
> Anybody tried this?
Have you looked at an auger bit file? They're designed for just
this application.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=32954&category=1,43072,4
3089
(watch the line wrap)
Also, if you're in need of instructions on how to sharpen auger
bits, there was an article a year or two ago in FWW, AWW,
WWJ, or Wood mag on this. I'm too lazy to go check right
now, but if you need it let me know and maybe that'll motivate
me to go look.
Art
"Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
> Having fixed the Yankee with a little help from my friends, it's time to
> work on my latest eBay find, a baker's dozen of Russell Jennings bits. Yum.
>
> Some previous owner cared enough to try to sharpen them. Alas, he seems
> to have been a botcher. All the larger bits' cutting lips have been
> refiled from the top. His file left a channel between the lead screws and
> the spurs. There's an angled land left at the base of the lead screw,
> which shortens the cutting edge of the lip. This is happening beyond the
> end of the lead screw's thread. Fortunately the smaller bits were too
> small for his file. A slip of wet-n-dry folded over a sliver of wood has
> put them in good shape.
>
> I want to know if a dremel grinder (I don't have one) could get in
> there and nibble down the base of the lead screw to meet the rest of the
> lip. There's not room for a file or stone; has to be rotary.
>
> Anybody tried this?
>
> --
> "Keep your ass behind you"
>
Australopithecus scobis <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Greetings,
> Having fixed the Yankee with a little help from my friends, it's time to
> work on my latest eBay find, a baker's dozen of Russell Jennings bits. Yum.
>
> Some previous owner cared enough to try to sharpen them. Alas, he seems
> to have been a botcher. All the larger bits' cutting lips have been
> refiled from the top. His file left a channel between the lead screws and
> the spurs. There's an angled land left at the base of the lead screw,
> which shortens the cutting edge of the lip. This is happening beyond the
> end of the lead screw's thread. Fortunately the smaller bits were too
> small for his file. A slip of wet-n-dry folded over a sliver of wood has
> put them in good shape.
>
> I want to know if a dremel grinder (I don't have one) could get in
> there and nibble down the base of the lead screw to meet the rest of the
> lip. There's not room for a file or stone; has to be rotary.
>
> Anybody tried this?
I haven't tried this but a 3/16" chain saw grinding wheel in a Dremel
tool will work. Even a flat cutoff wheel will work but it may be
harder to control.
Get yourself a Dremel, very handy tool. For years I thought a Dremel
tool was just a hobbiest tool, then I needed one for something and
have been using it ever since.
mike
On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:03:37 GMT, Jim Behning
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>jewelers files?
>
>Australopithecus scobis <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Greetings,
>> Having fixed the Yankee with a little help from my friends, it's time to
>>work on my latest eBay find, a baker's dozen of Russell Jennings bits. Yum.
>>
>> Some previous owner cared enough to try to sharpen them. Alas, he seems
>>to have been a botcher. All the larger bits' cutting lips have been
>>refiled from the top. His file left a channel between the lead screws and
>>the spurs. There's an angled land left at the base of the lead screw,
>>which shortens the cutting edge of the lip. This is happening beyond the
>>end of the lead screw's thread. Fortunately the smaller bits were too
>>small for his file. A slip of wet-n-dry folded over a sliver of wood has
>>put them in good shape.
>>
>> I want to know if a dremel grinder (I don't have one) could get in
>>there and nibble down the base of the lead screw to meet the rest of the
>>lip. There's not room for a file or stone; has to be rotary.
>>
>> Anybody tried this?
No, but I'd mount the dremel in a vise and hand touch the bit
to it under bright lighting, with good face/dust/hand protection.
----
- Nice perfume. Must you marinate in it? -
http://diversify.com Web Applications
On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:03:37 +0000, Jim Behning wrote:
> jewelers files?
Only working space is between the spurs.
Carat and vee point at the trouble spots.
v
( @ )
^
Run a file from front edge of spur to edge of lead screw; there's a
bit of cutting lip that can't be reached. That's the problem. I suspect
that over-eager filing in the past may have moved the lip back toward the
spur.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 19:03:27 +0000, Wood Butcher wrote:
> Have you looked at an auger bit file?
Yah. It's already highlighted in my new catalog. ;) Next budget-month I'm
getting one, and a feather-edge or two, also. However, a file won't work
in this case. I did all that was possible with a XX-Slim triangular file
and a sandpaper slip. There's no room for a linear object there at the
base of the screw. A correctly-shaped cutting lip would be nice, but
that's not what I have to work with.
I've reviewed web sites, a couple of library books, and my copy of Leonard
Lee's book: I can sharpen a correctly shaped auger bit, no problem. This
is a restoration project, however.
Thanks for the suggestion, anyway.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 02:11:07 +0000, Fdmorrison wrote:
> ? Why can't you grind a small flat or three-corner file for a safe edge (no
> teeth) that will skate on top of the cutter lip as it reduces the excess metal
> beyond the thread of the spur?
Been there, done that. But the lip is encroaching on the spur. Need a 1/4
inch long file! Gotta be rotary. Would work on a new bit, but after having
been filed enough times down the flute, the lip creeps around toward the
spur. Safe edge files are indeed useful critters, and I wish I'd had one
whilst doing the rest of the work on the bits. A shield made of
whatever came to hand at the moment sufficed.
Now, thinking about your suggestion, perhaps I could break off a piece of
file or hacksaw and epoxy it to a cross-handle. Use it as a saw...
Itty-bitty azebiki... Hmm. Heck, I've got a couple of glue-spreaders made
of hacksaw and dowel... (5 minutes later) Well, it sorta kinda works.
I also have to figure out something to make with these bits. (Yes,
holes; I've got one in me pocket.) These things have been a pain to
recondition, but $30 for a full set of Jennings bits is terrific.
Thanks for the advice, all. Vise-mounted dremel, chainsaw stone, face
shield, proper files, and kludged filesaw: These bits have a future!
--
"Keep your ass behind you"