Hi All
Yep 132k6 is good if you want to do tarps for a B-double or stitch polishing
mops for buffing.
Or serious motor trimming with plastics.
It is a lot heavier than a 111W.
A 132 is not good for lighter work
Take a trip to the nearest industrial sewing supplier and ask to see the
range of needles for both machines.
For normal upholstery or sail making a 111 is fine up to a fabric thickness
of a bit over 3/16"
After that the 132 comes in.
But doing lighter work on a 132 is not good.
The 132 does not like light weight threads at all. Light work is spoiled by
the heavy threads required Needles from about size 22 up to the equivalent
of a 3" framing gun nail.
Normal sewing thread will break. Special threads are required.
The 111w only just copes with normal sewing threads as used on a domestic
machine the min needle size is 16 it is happier with an 18 or bigger
If you get one of these machines do not try to run it at 3-5000 rpm the
normal speed for an industrial machine these days.
Go to a supplier and get the right motor around 750 rpm max for the 111 and
650 for the 132. We ran a 132 on a CNC stitching machine at around 1000 but
the setup had to be perfect. It was never that happy.
Run em any faster and the beautifully (Hand) honed and hardened bearings
will simply seize, lock up and break something. And that will mean goodbye.
Final tip Use Teflon added oil, is a huge improvement compared to the normal
white machine oil on the hook and base. The rotating part you put the bobbin
in. it will run much cooler
Cheers
Macka Australia
PS Hi Don Nichols.. I spoke to you on this forum about 7 years ago. (you
gave me good advice too)
Thank You
John McNamara
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 17:51:35 -0700, Too_Many_Tools
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>workshop that require a sewing machine.
1950s Black and Gold Singer, with motor.
Basic, but indestructible and still easy to get parts for.
Sews thin stuff, thick stuff and pretty much everything you actually
_need_ to sew.
1970s diecast aluminium zig-zag machine, from a good maker. This will
let you sew bar tacks, which are useful for strengthening. It should
also have a "sleeve arm" so that it can sew inside narrow tubes.
Early Japanese imports (New Home) are good, as are Europeans and _some_
US machines. This is about the time that over-complex unreliable fragile
machines started to appear (US first, then Europe) though, so be
careful.
1980s Pfaff 1221 / 1222
Does everything. has a walking foot so it will sew slippery kite fabric
too. Much sought after.
Industrial.
Too big, too awkward to store, too expensive. Often highly specialised
too, such as having flat bed rather than a sleeve arm, so they aren't
useful for small work. Very few of us need a real industiral. Mine's a
Brother, but I don't use it much.
If it's a speciliased industrial, such as having a full walking foot,
leather or upholstery sewing adaptions, then the price can get very high
indeed.
Don't underestimate the significance of thread and needles, more than
machines, For leather in particular, you need the right needle to sew
well.
On Jun 30, 5:51 pm, Too_Many_Tools <[email protected]> wrote:
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
See if you can find a Singer 20U somewhere -- it's originally a
tailor's machine, but pretty heavy duty -- all iron and steel, all
gear driven. It will do straight and zigzag. I made all the canvas
work and much of the interior upholstery for my sailboat with one, and
have used it for drapes, leather, and misc. sewing ever since. It
didn't have any problems sewing through multiple layers of heavy
canvas, even on the corner patches and reinforcements.
Regards,
Bob
On Jun 30, 8:51 pm, Too_Many_Tools <[email protected]> wrote:
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
Try to find a used Pfaff Hobbymatic. From around 1980.
It is a work horse. (Make sure it is the cast metal, not the plastic
body.)
The rest, as pointed out already, is the proper selection of threads
and needles.
On Jun 30, 5:51 pm, Too_Many_Tools <[email protected]> wrote:
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
For canvas, cotton, and thin leather you should be fine with a typical
"workhorse" sewingmachine from the swapmeet or a garage sale. Look for
a brand name metal-bodied sewing machine, like Singer, Kenmore
(Sears), Viking, or Husquvarnia. A good machine around here goes for
~50. If you can, try to get one with the little box of accessories...
there should be some extra feet for making button holes or different
kinds of hems.
I don't know what you're making, but I'd guess that you don't need to
go crazy with the stitches, just straight and zig-zag and maybe a
button hole should do it for you. If you are looking to make clothes
or something that will be washed a lot you might want to check out a
serger. They'll sew up a seam, trim it and finish it so it wont fray
all at the same time.
If you know that you are going to do a whole lot of a particular kind
of stitch you might want an industrial sewing machine. For example, if
you are going to make a few tents or awnings you might want a straight
stitch industrial machine and table w/clutch motor. If you don't have
experience sewing I wouldn't recommend going that route.
BTW, you might take a look at Sewing for Dummies, or other sewing
books, or checking out alt.sewing, rec.crafts.textiles.sewing; or
other forums.
On Jun 30, 7:51 pm, Too_Many_Tools <[email protected]> wrote:
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
Thanks for the excellent replies.
Any suggestions as to types of thread and other supplies to have on
hand?
What type of workspace, desk, table, etc. works best for you?
Thanks
TMT
Sounds interesting -
Lots of stuff and a group mentioned on Google search using :
Singer 111W155
Someone said a manual printing....
Good find.
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
SteveB wrote:
> "Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>>
>> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>> cotton, thin leather)
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Any suggested machines?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> TMT
>>
>
> Found a Singer 111W155 today for $250, which I promptly snatched. Has base,
> table, motor, and spindle stand. Have asked alt.textiles.sewing group for
> feedback, but feel this industrial sewing machine will do all I want to do
> with regards to making Raven Mills Sunbrella awnings and shade cloth
> coverings for my new house.
>
> I was tickled to get it. Will let you know how it works. It is H-E-A-V-Y!
>
> Steve
>
>
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
NoOne N Particular wrote:
> Anon wrote:
>> Hi Wayne
>>
>> If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite.
>
> No worries there. I have NO plans to sew anything other than fabrics
> and maybe some "glass". Having said that, if I were to try some
> masonite I think (hope?) the needle would be the first thing to go. But
> I don't have big enough balls to try it.
>
> Wayne
>
> P.S. The "glass" I am referring to would be the clear plastic used in
> boat canvas windows.
And there was me thinking you meant fibreglass fabric!
Good luck with the project. Do keep us up to date on how it goes.
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 17:51:35 -0700, Too_Many_Tools
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
>I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>cotton, thin leather)
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Any suggested machines?
>
>Thanks
>
>TMT
Here are some portable walking-foots
http://www.allbrands.com/products/abc0585.html I have the Thompson,
although it cost a lot less back when I bought it. If I can get the
material under the foot it will feed cleanly and has never broken a
needle. I mounted it on (in) a 3'X5' folding table to minimize
struggling with large projects, and yet the whole thing can be tucked
away when not in use. I added a knee lever for the foot lift (simple
rope and pulley arrangement), and a better foot switch to allow slower
motor speed. Other than occasional oiling, zero maintenance in 20
years of occasional use. If I was buying today I'd probably get
something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/Industrial-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine-9-COMPLETE_W0QQitemZ250137952164QQihZ015QQcategoryZ26256QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Obviously not made for real industrial use, but perhaps just the right
thing for the average home shop. Heavier and more powerful machines
are made to sew FAST. For occasional amateur sewing of heavy materials
you want to be able to go slow, sometimes just a few stitches at a
time.
Wayne
On Sat, 09 Feb 2008 11:37:09 GMT, "Anon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>There are dozens of different feet.
I have a bin cabinet with several hundred feet, NOS, if you know
anyone who needs it.
I think, unless I gave it away already...humm....
Gunner
<<<<<<<<<< SNIP >>>>>>>>>>>
>
> I got a nice Singer 111W155 walking foot model with stand and all for $250
> at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas awning
> work. They work good on leather, too.
>
> Steve
>
>
I picked up a 111w152 from a canvas shop (for boats) that was going out
of business. Machine (in GREAT shape), table, and a few feet for $200.
One nice thing about it was that the previous owner had "re-engined"
the machine with a more powerful motor and new clutch. I haven't tried
going through any masonite or anything like that, but I did try sewing
eight layers of heavy (30 oz) marine vinyl just to see what happened.
To my surprise, nothing unusual happened. Just sewed it all together
like it was just two layers. I already had a very healthy respect for
the machines capabilities, but it DID give me a little bit higher level
of respect for the machine though. If you were unfortunate enough or
careless enough to get your finger under that needle . . .
The only thing I would recommend though is if you can find it (and
afford it), get a machine with reverse. If you find a good deal on a
machine that does not have reverse, don't let that stop you from buying
it. It probably isn't all that much of a deal, but it seems like it
would be easier to "lock" stitches at the beginning and end. There are
ways around not having reverse, but having it would just make things a
little bit easier.
Wayne
Spehro Pefhany wrote:
> You in a city with much schmatta trade? If you go to an industrial
> sewing machine place they'll fix you up with a used machine like a
> Juki that will run forever. (those machines actually have an oil pan).
> They often do this for young 'uns setting up as fashion designers.
Yep, my landlord has a bunch of industrial machines used to make
motorcycle bags.
Doubt he has a machine that is less than 50 years old.
Also, if you are in an area that has some sailmakers, talk to them.
Lew
"Martin H. Eastburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sounds interesting -
>
> Lots of stuff and a group mentioned on Google search using :
> Singer 111W155
>
> Someone said a manual printing....
>
> Good find.
> Martin H. Eastburn
I'm jazzed about this sewing machine. I have made hundreds of awning frames
when I was a contractor, and am looking forward to decorating three houses
and a cabin with awning work AT COST. Don't know about anyone else, but I
consider awning work to be very complimentary to any house. The shade and
energy offsets are substantial, too. And then there's the times when you
need to fix a strap or something heavy, or just go buy another. Now I can
fix lots of "stuff". And build weather covers for "stuff".
Next to the 705 Dewalt compound saw I got two weeks ago for $25, it's the
best thing I found in a while. Of course, I did have to spend a few bucks
to put a new cord on the 705. I got a set of Victor OA regulators, 50' of
hose, and a Victor cutting head a few months ago for $50. I like yard sales
in Las Vegas. People have a lot of money, and there's all sorts of reasons
they get rid of stuff. In lots of rust belt areas, the things you find at
yard sales are thoroughly worn out.
Oh, yeah. I got a nice IM8 graphite rod and Ambassadeur 5000 reel for three
bucks a month ago. It will make a nice trout trolling rig on the SS Minnow.
Steve
Anon wrote:
> Hi Wayne
>
> If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite.
No worries there. I have NO plans to sew anything other than fabrics
and maybe some "glass". Having said that, if I were to try some
masonite I think (hope?) the needle would be the first thing to go. But
I don't have big enough balls to try it.
Wayne
P.S. The "glass" I am referring to would be the clear plastic used in
boat canvas windows.
>Singer made a heavy duty machine that was designed for canvas and
>leather, with a foot that rotates so you can aim the needle anyway you
>want. We bought one for $75. It is foot powered, but many of them
>were motorized. It is a very basic machine; no zigzag, etc..
>
>Pete Stanaitis
>-------------------------
>
>Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>
>> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>>
>> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>> cotton, thin leather)
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Any suggested machines?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> TMT
>>
Yup.... called a model 29....
Ken
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
Juki, Con-sew, Thompson, Singer, etc. have good industrial machines.
The domestic Singer machines, such as the Model 15, 66, 201, etc., are
*not* industrial. There is a 201 that was outfitted for dressmakers
with a knee lift, and it is a fine machine, but not industrial.
If you look on eBay (and who doesn't?) beware of unscrupulous sellers
who call any old solid iron sewing machine "industrial" -- when they are
domestic machines. Tough, versatile, strong, but not industrial. Their
motors are not built for 8 hours of flat-out sewing.
For occasional use, a Singer 15 or 201 would probably do you just fine,
but don't overpay for it. If you need a really heavy-duty machine, then
look at the real industrial models, including the Singer 31.
--
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth.milky-way.com
http://members.tripod.com/~bernardschopen/
Mike Berger wrote:
> You can also get treadle operated machines for occasional use and
> exercise.
This overcomes some of the problems with motors not strong enough to
penetrate several layers. In this case, you are sitting on the motor.
;-)
--
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth.milky-way.com
http://members.tripod.com/~bernardschopen/
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 17:51:35 -0700, Too_Many_Tools
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
>I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>cotton, thin leather)
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Any suggested machines?
>
I have a Pfaff 130 that handles canvas, and leather rangeing from
garment to light belt weight with no problem. I often make fetish, or
goth gear so having a reliable machine that can do leather, PVC, etc.
without gasping is a real godsend.
I'm not sure you will find anything new without paying the big bucks.
NightMist
--
I'm a little teapot, short and stout
here is my handle, here is my...other...handle?
Bloody Hell!!
I'm a sugar bowl!
NoOne N Particular wrote:
> However, what I wanted to say in responding to your question is that I
> would suggest you find one that has a reverse. Mine doesn't. I have
> found myself wishing that I had a reverse a few times like for tacking
> the end of a stitch, etc. What I have to do is either 1). Lift the foot
> and drag the piece back a little, drop the foot, and go again. This
> leaves a long piece of the thread open where you moved the piece but it
> works. or 2), Turn the piece around. This is ok for smaller pieces, but
> when I was re-stitching my boat cover it was a little impractical.
>
> Wayne
Do you have a stitch length lever? If so, lower the number of stitches
at the end of your seam to make very small stitches close together.
Nearly on top of each other. I do that, not with the stitch lever, but
by holding the fabric under the needle for the last 3 or 4 stitches,
which does lock the end of the seam. You may find it easier to use the
stitch length lever.
--
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth.milky-way.com
http://members.tripod.com/~bernardschopen/
You could also dump it off at your local thrift/charity shop and get rid
of it that way without having to worry about it at all.
Gunner wrote:
>> Why don't you list them on Ebay a few at a time?
>
> Because Ive not a clue on how to do it, nor do I have the time or
> inclination.
>
> Shrug..I can take pictures, get some numbers off them..and dump the
> entire thing into a USPS box and let someone mess with em.
>
> If someone wants the parts bins..shrug..take a bigger box.
--
Every job is a self-portrait of the person who does it. Autograph your
work with excellence.
A walking foot is a good feature for heavier materials.
Singer 132K6 is great, popular with auto trimmers, not cheap, has BIG
bobbin, easy to use, tough.
>> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>> cotton, thin leather)
>>
Anon wrote:
>
> Go to a supplier and get the right motor around 750 rpm max for the 111 and
> 650 for the 132. We ran a 132 on a CNC stitching machine at around 1000 but
> the setup had to be perfect. It was never that happy.
>
etc
>
Good useful info Macka - thanks.
For really fine leatherwork, I've seen amazing work done on machines
with roller feet and feed.
Jordan
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 17:51:35 -0700, the renowned Too_Many_Tools
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
>I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>cotton, thin leather)
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Any suggested machines?
>
>Thanks
>
>TMT
You in a city with much schmatta trade? If you go to an industrial
sewing machine place they'll fix you up with a used machine like a
Juki that will run forever. (those machines actually have an oil pan).
They often do this for young 'uns setting up as fashion designers.
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
[email protected] Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
"Anon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> HI
>
> look for a Singer 111w or 112w (About 80 years old) there were tens of
> thousands made.
I picked up an old Singer year 1921±. I told the seller (sewing machine
repair man that has dozens of commercial machines for sale) that I am going
to sew through 'door-skin' to make door panels for my auto restoration. I
didn't have any 'door-skin' to try it on and he didn't have any leather. He
found a 12" chunk of 1/4 inch thick Masonite. We laid a piece of fabric on
top of it and sewed through the pair with the greatest of ease. No problem.
Ivan Vegvary
Hunter wrote:
> "NoOne N Particular" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> |
> | The stitch length IS adjustable, but not while the machine is running, and
> not
> | easily done with a heavy load of fabric on the bed. To change the stitch
> length
> | you have to have the machine at a very specific point on it's rotation,
> then
> | press a button on the bed of the machine and turn the hand wheel until the
> | number of stitches per inch appears in a hole on the front of the machine.
> I
> | think I might try the other technique of trying to slow the fabric so the
> | stitches are closer together. Hadn't thought of that one.
> |
> | Wayne
>
> That sounds weird! What kind of sewing machine do you have? I've owned
> various types of sewing machines in the past and presently, I still keep 12
> vintage machines in my collections( Pfaff, Elna, Necchi, Singer, Viking ).
> None of them have to be stopped to adjust the stitch length. All of them
> have infinitely variable stitch length( up to the max length) adjustments
> that can be done even when running at full speed.
> If you want a simple machine that would last for many generations that could
> do all you wanted to do as have been discussed here, I recommend a Pfaff
> 138. It is a real industrial machine for heavy duty work built like a tank
> with adjustable stitch length, zigzag, reverse and a very convenient
> knee-operated foot lever to raise the sewing foot. It's very simple to
> maintain or adjust and the design is straightforward for any mechanically
> inclined person to understand.
> The older Consew machines are good choices too.
>
>
I think in my intital post I said that it was a Singer Model 152 but it is
really a Model 111W. To be more precise, 111W152 from around 1940.
For a picture, go here and scroll down to the 152:
http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-singers/111w.htm
This is actually one of the machines that became the "standard" in the industry
and the parts for this machine were readily interchangeable with other
manufacturers for quite a number of years. A great many parts for this machine
are still readily available. If my info is correct, all but the major castings.
Wayne
Wayne
"Jordan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anon wrote:
>>
>> Go to a supplier and get the right motor around 750 rpm max for the 111
>> and 650 for the 132. We ran a 132 on a CNC stitching machine at around
>> 1000 but the setup had to be perfect. It was never that happy.
>>
> etc
>>
>
> Good useful info Macka - thanks.
> For really fine leatherwork, I've seen amazing work done on machines with
> roller feet and feed.
>
> Jordan
I got a nice Singer 111W155 walking foot model with stand and all for $250
at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas awning
work. They work good on leather, too.
Steve
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 23:24:24 -0700, Melinda Meahan - take out TRASH to
reply <[email protected]> wrote:
>Gunner wrote:
>>
>> Most of the feet are marked $10 and so forth. Got a couple hundred of
>> them.. Anone want to make me an offer for the whole shooting match?
>
>Why don't you list them on Ebay a few at a time?
Because Ive not a clue on how to do it, nor do I have the time or
inclination.
Shrug..I can take pictures, get some numbers off them..and dump the
entire thing into a USPS box and let someone mess with em.
If someone wants the parts bins..shrug..take a bigger box.
Gunner
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet,
balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying,
take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations,
analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer,
cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly.
Specialization is for insects. Lazarus Long
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
I found an old Singer model 152 (walking foot straight stitch) from about 1940.
A man was selling his marine canvas shop and had it setting in a corner. He
had three newer machines that he used and this one had just been taking up space
for a long time. It had the motor replace with a bigger one at some point. I
got it and the table for $200.
When I got it home and got it all cleaned up, I started playing with it just to
see how it worked. One of the things I did was to see just how much heavy vinyl
fabric it would go through easily. It went through 8 layers like they weren't
even there. I'll bet it would treat a finger the same way so I give it a VERY
healty respect.
However, what I wanted to say in responding to your question is that I would
suggest you find one that has a reverse. Mine doesn't. I have found myself
wishing that I had a reverse a few times like for tacking the end of a stitch,
etc. What I have to do is either 1). Lift the foot and drag the piece back a
little, drop the foot, and go again. This leaves a long piece of the thread
open where you moved the piece but it works. or 2), Turn the piece around.
This is ok for smaller pieces, but when I was re-stitching my boat cover it was
a little impractical.
Wayne
Singer made a heavy duty machine that was designed for canvas and
leather, with a foot that rotates so you can aim the needle anyway you
want. We bought one for $75. It is foot powered, but many of them
were motorized. It is a very basic machine; no zigzag, etc..
Pete Stanaitis
-------------------------
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
Ken Sterling wrote:
>>Singer made a heavy duty machine that was designed for canvas and
>>leather, with a foot that rotates so you can aim the needle anyway you
>>want. We bought one for $75. It is foot powered, but many of them
>>were motorized. It is a very basic machine; no zigzag, etc..
>>
>>Pete Stanaitis
>>-------------------------
>>
>>Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>>>workshop that require a sewing machine.
>>>
>>>I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>>>machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>>>cotton, thin leather)
>>>
>>>Any suggestions?
>>>
>>>Any suggested machines?
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>
>>>TMT
>>>
>
> Yup.... called a model 29....
> Ken
>
We call them boot patchers. We have acouple of them here tho never used
one in earnest.
The one to go for is the Singer k45
Real heavy motor driven one. Will sew 5 thicknesses of seat belt webbing.
When hang gliding took off? back in the 1970's ( mostly downwards of
course!!) I made lots of seated harnesses for this sport. Tested them
myself first.
Also made up shortened lifting strops from broken ones.
The light industrial Singers are used by furniture upholsters
Also Have acouple of 1860's model 12? is it Singers.
Iknow, im a sucker for old machinery.
Collect anything thats old and restorable.
As an applied art smith, hammers are my real interest.
Especially those made before 1860 when Bessemer introduced the blown
steel process.
These pre 1860 hammers were always from wrought iron with crucible
steel ends fire welded on.
te oldest I think I have is a roman one but cant be sure of its age
The design is right so is the form.
Heres hoping.!!
Ted
Dorset UK.
HI
look for a Singer 111w or 112w (About 80 years old) there were tens of
thousands made.
If you Google you will easily find a picture.
Both are Walking foot machines.. Most manufactures make a machine based on
the Singer design, In fact many parts interchange.
There are dozens of different feet.
So it is a Walking foot you are after for canvas.
Adler make great heavy duty new ones. Same feet as above.
I still have one, ran it every day for thirty years in a furnishings factory
and never replaced a major part
Yes I oiled it every day.
Cheers
Macka Australia
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Jun 30, 8:51 pm, Too_Many_Tools <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>>
>> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>> cotton, thin leather)
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Any suggested machines?
>>
>
> Try to find a used Pfaff Hobbymatic. From around 1980.
> It is a work horse. (Make sure it is the cast metal, not the plastic
> body.)
> The rest, as pointed out already, is the proper selection of threads
> and needles.
>
>
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
Harbor Freight has a couple of nice machines. I have the single needle
and it does a good job for my occassional use. Made the lifting slings
for my new Smithy 1220 on it.
Jim Chandler
"Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
Found a Singer 111W155 today for $250, which I promptly snatched. Has base,
table, motor, and spindle stand. Have asked alt.textiles.sewing group for
feedback, but feel this industrial sewing machine will do all I want to do
with regards to making Raven Mills Sunbrella awnings and shade cloth
coverings for my new house.
I was tickled to get it. Will let you know how it works. It is H-E-A-V-Y!
Steve
Actually not uncommon at all for industrial machines, I can think of several
off the top of my head, the 111W and it clones , Singer 241/251, 245, Union
special 64000, most any industrial overlock, etc.
--
Ron Anderson A1 Sewing Machine
PO Box 60, Sand Lake, NY 12153
518-469-5133
http://www.singera1sewing.com
http://www.a1sewingmachine.com
"Hunter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "NoOne N Particular" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> |
> | The stitch length IS adjustable, but not while the machine is running,
> and
> not
> | easily done with a heavy load of fabric on the bed. To change the
> stitch
> length
> | you have to have the machine at a very specific point on it's rotation,
> then
> | press a button on the bed of the machine and turn the hand wheel until
> the
> | number of stitches per inch appears in a hole on the front of the
> machine.
> I
> | think I might try the other technique of trying to slow the fabric so
> the
> | stitches are closer together. Hadn't thought of that one.
> |
> | Wayne
>
> That sounds weird! What kind of sewing machine do you have? I've owned
> various types of sewing machines in the past and presently, I still keep
> 12
> vintage machines in my collections( Pfaff, Elna, Necchi, Singer, Viking ).
> None of them have to be stopped to adjust the stitch length. All of them
> have infinitely variable stitch length( up to the max length) adjustments
> that can be done even when running at full speed.
> If you want a simple machine that would last for many generations that
> could
> do all you wanted to do as have been discussed here, I recommend a Pfaff
> 138. It is a real industrial machine for heavy duty work built like a tank
> with adjustable stitch length, zigzag, reverse and a very convenient
> knee-operated foot lever to raise the sewing foot. It's very simple to
> maintain or adjust and the design is straightforward for any mechanically
> inclined person to understand.
> The older Consew machines are good choices too.
>
>
Spehro Pefhany writes:
> If you go to an industrial
> sewing machine place they'll fix you up with a used machine like a
> Juki that will run forever. (those machines actually have an oil pan).
Isn't the HF item a Chinese clone of that?
Look at the machines for sailmaking sold at http://www.sailrite.com/ where
they do the sorts of applications you describe.
My 1950's anker sewed through 7 layers of marine vinyl and then about a 1/8
inch pvc extrusion. (camper awning cover). Then the wife used it to work on
her quilt. Great machine, big, black and chrome!!! I also have a Singer Red
Head treadle, with a leather belt foot power drive. Check with any good old
sewing machine and vacuum repair place. They can tell you the best machines,
or try an industrial machine repair center. Then watch Craigslist or the
classifieds... I found my Anker in a thrift shop... 15 bucks.
bob in phx
Side story on the Anker.
I found the Anker in the "as is" section of the local Mormon run thrift
shop. I figured I had better plug it in and see if the motor was good. Well
I plugged it in and it started to run, but without me touching the foot
peddle. So I un-plugged it and gave a close look at the peddle. I noticed a
couple of the rivets on the bottom were worn off. I also hear the remains of
the rivets inside the peddle, where they should not be. So I decided to see
if there was an speed up if I pushed on the peddle. So I plugged it in again
and put my hand on the peddle. Bang, 110 volts were shooting up my arm. So
again, I am in the middle of a very religious run store.... What came out of
my mouth as I got my hand off the peddle????? You guessed it, profanity. And
at the top of my lungs!!! I must have had 20 people, employees too, looking
at me.. I sheepishly explained that I had just gotten a pretty good
electrical shock... They bought it and I bought the machine!!!!
"Gunner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 21:05:32 -0500, Spehro Pefhany
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 17:51:35 -0700, the renowned Too_Many_Tools
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>>>workshop that require a sewing machine.
>>>
>>>I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>>>machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>>>cotton, thin leather)
>>>
>>>Any suggestions?
>>>
>>>Any suggested machines?
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>
>>>TMT
>>
>>You in a city with much schmatta trade? If you go to an industrial
>>sewing machine place they'll fix you up with a used machine like a
>>Juki that will run forever. (those machines actually have an oil pan).
>>They often do this for young 'uns setting up as fashion designers.
>>
>>
>>Best regards,
>>Spehro Pefhany
>
>
> Or a good ConSew.
>
> Reliable Tool gets em in from time to time also.
>
> Gunner
>
> A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
> butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet,
> balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying,
> take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations,
> analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer,
> cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly.
> Specialization is for insects. Lazarus Long
Pogonip wrote:
> NoOne N Particular wrote:
>> However, what I wanted to say in responding to your question is that I
>> would suggest you find one that has a reverse. Mine doesn't. I have
>> found myself wishing that I had a reverse a few times like for tacking
>> the end of a stitch, etc. What I have to do is either 1). Lift the
>> foot and drag the piece back a little, drop the foot, and go again.
>> This leaves a long piece of the thread open where you moved the piece
>> but it works. or 2), Turn the piece around. This is ok for smaller
>> pieces, but when I was re-stitching my boat cover it was a little
>> impractical.
>>
>> Wayne
>
> Do you have a stitch length lever? If so, lower the number of stitches
> at the end of your seam to make very small stitches close together.
> Nearly on top of each other. I do that, not with the stitch lever, but
> by holding the fabric under the needle for the last 3 or 4 stitches,
> which does lock the end of the seam. You may find it easier to use the
> stitch length lever.
The stitch length IS adjustable, but not while the machine is running, and not
easily done with a heavy load of fabric on the bed. To change the stitch length
you have to have the machine at a very specific point on it's rotation, then
press a button on the bed of the machine and turn the hand wheel until the
number of stitches per inch appears in a hole on the front of the machine. I
think I might try the other technique of trying to slow the fabric so the
stitches are closer together. Hadn't thought of that one.
Wayne
"Ted Frater" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Iknow, im a sucker for old machinery.
> Collect anything thats old and restorable.
> As an applied art smith, hammers are my real interest.
> Especially those made before 1860 when Bessemer introduced the blown steel
> process.
> These pre 1860 hammers were always from wrought iron with crucible
> steel ends fire welded on.
> te oldest I think I have is a roman one but cant be sure of its age
> The design is right so is the form.
> Heres hoping.!!
> Ted
> Dorset UK.
Interesting! Photos? Web site?
-- Mark
On Sun, 10 Feb 2008 14:08:20 +1100, Jordan wrote:
> Singer 132K6
What he said. We have one my grandfather bought when he was in the carpet
business - i still have the packing crate somewhere. If you cant sew it
with the 132K6, you need a drill and nuts and bolts...
Oil them every day with light machine oil, including the bobbin case, and
clear out the fluff.
Geoff
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 13:34:01 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>On Jun 30, 5:51 pm, Too_Many_Tools <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>>
>> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>> cotton, thin leather)
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Any suggested machines?
>For canvas, cotton, and thin leather you should be fine with a typical
>"workhorse" sewingmachine from the swapmeet or a garage sale. Look for
>a brand name metal-bodied sewing machine, like Singer, Kenmore
>(Sears), Viking, or Husquvarnia. A good machine around here goes for
>~50. If you can, try to get one with the little box of accessories...
>there should be some extra feet for making button holes or different
>kinds of hems.
>
>I don't know what you're making, but I'd guess that you don't need to
>go crazy with the stitches, just straight and zig-zag and maybe a
>button hole should do it for you. If you are looking to make clothes
>or something that will be washed a lot you might want to check out a
>serger. They'll sew up a seam, trim it and finish it so it wont fray
>all at the same time.
>
>If you know that you are going to do a whole lot of a particular kind
>of stitch you might want an industrial sewing machine. For example, if
>you are going to make a few tents or awnings you might want a straight
>stitch industrial machine and table w/clutch motor. If you don't have
>experience sewing I wouldn't recommend going that route.
>
>BTW, you might take a look at Sewing for Dummies, or other sewing
>books, or checking out alt.sewing, rec.crafts.textiles.sewing; or
>other forums.
>
Btw..this reminds me. Anyone in the sewing machine repair business?
I bought one of those units with all the little drawers in it..just
filled with every kind of sewing maching foot you could possible think
of. Some Ive never seen before. Came out of an auction as part of a
lot.
Most of the feet are marked $10 and so forth. Got a couple hundred of
them.. Anone want to make me an offer for the whole shooting match?
Gunner
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet,
balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying,
take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations,
analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer,
cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly.
Specialization is for insects. Lazarus Long
I had a similar need. I found an old Anker sewing machine --
apparently made in East Germany out of old tank parts. It's
rugged, reliable, and serviceable -- it has beautifully made
parts. It also has a delicate touch if needed (mine came
with a double needle and cams for embroidery stitches). I paid
$ 5 at a hamfest. It's a portable in the same sense of the
word with 1970's "portable" color TV's. There's a handle on
the carrying case. Supplies are readily available.
Surplus industrial singer models are great too. You can always
find parts and they're very reliable. If you have the space,
a table model with foot operated presser foot can be helpful.
You can also get treadle operated machines for occasional use and
exercise.
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
"Gunner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 23:24:24 -0700, Melinda Meahan - take out TRASH to
> reply <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Gunner wrote:
>>>
>>> Most of the feet are marked $10 and so forth. Got a couple hundred of
>>> them.. Anone want to make me an offer for the whole shooting match?
>>
Hey Gunner: i'll be glad to take em off yer hands Contact me at
[email protected]
Name a price and I'l "dicker" wid ya!!
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
> workshop that require a sewing machine.
>
> I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
> machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
> cotton, thin leather)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Any suggested machines?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
If you are doing heavier stuff with multiple layers, a walking foot
machine is a real nice thing to have, It pushes the material along on
both sides, rather than just one.
I have sewn with Singer machines and Juki's. The Juki requires far
less in maintenance, as there are fewer adjustable linkages to get out
of order.
You can get lucky, and find a decent useable machine for under $400,
but a more realistic price for one with a table and a couple accessories
is probably around $1K, or a bit more.
Stuff like piping feet are nice to have, too, if you want to make
really Pro looking bags or covers.
Cheers
Trevor Jones
On Sun, 01 Jul 2007 04:21:18 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Lew
Hodgett <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>Spehro Pefhany wrote:
>
>
> > You in a city with much schmatta trade? If you go to an industrial
> > sewing machine place they'll fix you up with a used machine like a
> > Juki that will run forever. (those machines actually have an oil pan).
> > They often do this for young 'uns setting up as fashion designers.
>
>
>Yep, my landlord has a bunch of industrial machines used to make
>motorcycle bags.
>
>Doubt he has a machine that is less than 50 years old.
>
>Also, if you are in an area that has some sailmakers, talk to them.
He'll need to talk to them in the winter, when they're not busy.
They'd charge an extra fee right now just to look. ;)
I picked up my used Consew 210 for $395. It's an oil-sump machine and
came with table, motor, clutch, extra clutch disk, bobbins, spools of
thread, extra needles, extra feet, and a stainless binding feed.
It's used to go through 2 layers of 680 denier nylon sheeting, a layer
of 1/8" or 1/4" foam, 2 layers of spray glue, and 2 layers of folded
binding. It'll do this all day long. (though I can't ;)
- Metaphors Be With You -
SteveB wrote:
> Found a Singer 111W155 today for $250, which I promptly snatched.
Has base,
> table, motor, and spindle stand. Have asked alt.textiles.sewing
group for
> feedback, but feel this industrial sewing machine will do all I want
to do
> with regards to making Raven Mills Sunbrella awnings and shade cloth
> coverings for my new house.
Just make sure you get thread that is compatible with the Sunbrella and
is treated for UV resistance.
Have fun.
Lew
"NoOne N Particular" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
|
| The stitch length IS adjustable, but not while the machine is running, and
not
| easily done with a heavy load of fabric on the bed. To change the stitch
length
| you have to have the machine at a very specific point on it's rotation,
then
| press a button on the bed of the machine and turn the hand wheel until the
| number of stitches per inch appears in a hole on the front of the machine.
I
| think I might try the other technique of trying to slow the fabric so the
| stitches are closer together. Hadn't thought of that one.
|
| Wayne
That sounds weird! What kind of sewing machine do you have? I've owned
various types of sewing machines in the past and presently, I still keep 12
vintage machines in my collections( Pfaff, Elna, Necchi, Singer, Viking ).
None of them have to be stopped to adjust the stitch length. All of them
have infinitely variable stitch length( up to the max length) adjustments
that can be done even when running at full speed.
If you want a simple machine that would last for many generations that could
do all you wanted to do as have been discussed here, I recommend a Pfaff
138. It is a real industrial machine for heavy duty work built like a tank
with adjustable stitch length, zigzag, reverse and a very convenient
knee-operated foot lever to raise the sewing foot. It's very simple to
maintain or adjust and the design is straightforward for any mechanically
inclined person to understand.
The older Consew machines are good choices too.
Hi Wayne
If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite. The sound of
hardened and polished steel snapping is not good.
and the spare parts (not counting the labour) will cost you more than the
cost of the machine. If you can get them.
The 132 can do masonite, but the stuff they use in cars and upholstery is
not flooring underlay. it is soft and flexible.
Cheers
John McNamara
"NoOne N Particular" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:28%[email protected]...
> <<<<<<<<<< SNIP >>>>>>>>>>>
>>
>> I got a nice Singer 111W155 walking foot model with stand and all for
>> $250 at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas
>> awning work. They work good on leather, too.
>>
>> Steve
> I picked up a 111w152 from a canvas shop (for boats) that was going out of
> business. Machine (in GREAT shape), table, and a few feet for $200. One
> nice thing about it was that the previous owner had "re-engined" the
> machine with a more powerful motor and new clutch. I haven't tried going
> through any masonite or anything like that, but I did try sewing eight
> layers of heavy (30 oz) marine vinyl just to see what happened. To my
> surprise, nothing unusual happened. Just sewed it all together like it
> was just two layers. I already had a very healthy respect for the
> machines capabilities, but it DID give me a little bit higher level of
> respect for the machine though. If you were unfortunate enough or
> careless enough to get your finger under that needle . . .
>
> The only thing I would recommend though is if you can find it (and afford
> it), get a machine with reverse. If you find a good deal on a machine
> that does not have reverse, don't let that stop you from buying it. It
> probably isn't all that much of a deal, but it seems like it would be
> easier to "lock" stitches at the beginning and end. There are ways around
> not having reverse, but having it would just make things a little bit
> easier.
>
>
> Wayne
"Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:5QQrj.191$YJ4.63@trndny01...
>
> "Anon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> HI
>>
>> look for a Singer 111w or 112w (About 80 years old) there were tens of
>> thousands made.
>
> I picked up an old Singer year 1921±. I told the seller (sewing machine
> repair man that has dozens of commercial machines for sale) that I am
> going to sew through 'door-skin' to make door panels for my auto
> restoration. I didn't have any 'door-skin' to try it on and he didn't
> have any leather. He found a 12" chunk of 1/4 inch thick Masonite. We
> laid a piece of fabric on top of it and sewed through the pair with the
> greatest of ease. No problem.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
Looking up my 111W155 serial number in the Singer manual tells me mine was
made in 1957. They are a workhorse. Ultimate Sew and Vac have them for
$710 each, probably refurbished and tweaked. Comes with table, stand and
motor.
Consew makes a mongo unit that we used for our canvas awning business, but
IIRC, it was pretty spendy. I don't know. I did the welding for the
frames, and my partner did the canvas.
Going to make some of my own awnings for my house this spring. I still have
quite a few awnings hanging around Las Vegas from when I was a contractor.
They're very nice ........ if you don't have to pay retail. ;-)
Steve
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 21:05:32 -0500, Spehro Pefhany
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 17:51:35 -0700, the renowned Too_Many_Tools
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On occasion I find myself needing to create items for the home
>>workshop that require a sewing machine.
>>
>>I am looking for recommendations in what to look for in a sewing
>>machine that will handle a number of differnet materials (canvas,
>>cotton, thin leather)
>>
>>Any suggestions?
>>
>>Any suggested machines?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>TMT
>
>You in a city with much schmatta trade? If you go to an industrial
>sewing machine place they'll fix you up with a used machine like a
>Juki that will run forever. (those machines actually have an oil pan).
>They often do this for young 'uns setting up as fashion designers.
>
>
>Best regards,
>Spehro Pefhany
Or a good ConSew.
Reliable Tool gets em in from time to time also.
Gunner
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet,
balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying,
take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations,
analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer,
cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly.
Specialization is for insects. Lazarus Long
17:01:21 GMT, NoOne N Particular <[email protected]> wrote:
> little, drop the foot, and go again. This leaves a long piece of the thread
> open where you moved the piece but it works. or 2), Turn the piece around.
There's also option 3: decrease the stitch length to near 0 or 0, and/or
hold on to the fabric and keep it from feeding for a few stitches at the
end of the seam. Either will lock a line of stitches.
Kay
On Wed, 4 Jul 2007 09:12:29 -0700, "patrick mitchel" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Gunner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 23:24:24 -0700, Melinda Meahan - take out TRASH to
>> reply <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Gunner wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Most of the feet are marked $10 and so forth. Got a couple hundred of
>>>> them.. Anone want to make me an offer for the whole shooting match?
>>>
>
> Hey Gunner: i'll be glad to take em off yer hands Contact me at
>[email protected]
> Name a price and I'l "dicker" wid ya!!
>
Want some pictures of em? I can show you the pile and take some close
ups. Where you at?
Gunner
"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.
Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner
Mark Jerde wrote:
> "Ted Frater" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>> Iknow, im a sucker for old machinery.
>>Collect anything thats old and restorable.
>>As an applied art smith, hammers are my real interest.
>>Especially those made before 1860 when Bessemer introduced the blown steel
>>process.
>> These pre 1860 hammers were always from wrought iron with crucible
>>steel ends fire welded on.
>> te oldest I think I have is a roman one but cant be sure of its age
>>The design is right so is the form.
>> Heres hoping.!!
>> Ted
>>Dorset UK.
>
>
> Interesting! Photos? Web site?
>
> -- Mark
>
>
It will be a few days for me to get out all these hammers and take some
pics. then upload tomy website.
thanks for the interst.
ted.