Hi All,
Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
so the door fits perfectly. Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
are called. My standard is a perfect fit: Even, Flush, no Sideways
displacement. At All! I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
pieces.
You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
when the door is closed????? (I can drill pretty accurately if
needed) There must be a trick I'm missing. Any suggestions???
Thanks for the help.
Rich.....
"Robatoy" wrote
Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill with a
#8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the drill
bit with a tapered one.
Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.
It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
pop one in and out of my impact drivers.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Any possibility of cutting a small peice off of a 1/4 " hex key and welding
it to the vix bit??
Or are the bits too small?
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:cfce99a5-b3e5-43cd-9f1d-abdbd54f5d80@r37g2000prr.googlegroups.com...
> Hi All,
>
> Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
> so the door fits perfectly. Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
> are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
> are called. My standard is a perfect fit: Even, Flush, no Sideways
> displacement. At All! I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
> same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
> pieces.
>
>
> You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
> when the door is closed????? (I can drill pretty accurately if
> needed) There must be a trick I'm missing. Any suggestions???
>
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Rich.....
Depending on the application, double stick tape and or the thicker carpet
tape works pretty well for holding the hinge in the position that you like
and allows you to carefully reopen the door to drill holes. A properly cut
mortise will also hold the hinge in place. "Vix" bits help greatly in
making sure that the hole that you drill is "exactly" in the center of the
hole in the hinge.
I just found that carpet tape is maybe what I need. The metalworking
wreck reminded me that I used a tape to hold down metal pieces on a
mill for machining. (about a thousand years ago) I guess carpet tape
is strong and thin. Gonna try sum soon.
Those "vix" tools... I think I have some in a kit my SWMBO got me
last year. A Rockler set of taper drills/countersinks that I use all
the time. Never looked at the other stuff in the pouch. Guess I go
and try some practice drilling.
Thanks for the help.....
On Jan 31, 1:57=A0pm, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]>
wrote:
> "Robatoy" =A0wrote
>
> Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill with a
> #8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the drill
> bit with a tapered one.
> Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.
>
> It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
> pop one in and out of my impact drivers.
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> Any possibility of cutting a small peice off of a 1/4 " hex key and weldi=
ng
> it to the vix bit??
>
> Or are the bits too small?
I am not sure what metal the upper housing of the Vix bits are made
from, but I looks like non weld-able pot-aluminium-like stuff.
Leon??
I'm still looking to find a small ( 3/8" or smaller) chuck with a 1/4"
hex-shaft base that I can pop in my impact driver. Buying hex-based
drill bits is a non starter. I have yet to find any that are decent.
Every time I see what looks like a small chuck, it is invariably
another proprietary receptacle for some other company's driver bits.
On Jan 31, 1:11=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:cfce99a5-b3e5-43cd-9f1d-abdbd54f5d80@r37g2000prr.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > Hi All,
>
> > =A0 Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
> > so the door fits perfectly. =A0Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
> > are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
> > are called. =A0 My standard is a perfect fit: =A0Even, Flush, no Sidewa=
ys
> > displacement. =A0At All! =A0I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
> > same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
> > pieces.
>
> > You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
> > when the door is closed????? =A0 (I can drill pretty accurately if
> > needed) =A0There must be a trick I'm missing. =A0Any suggestions???
>
> > Thanks for the help.
>
> > Rich.....
>
> Depending on the application, double stick tape and or the thicker carpet
> tape works pretty well for holding the hinge in the position that you lik=
e
> and allows you to carefully reopen the door to drill holes. =A0A properly=
cut
> mortise will also hold the hinge in place. =A0"Vix" bits help greatly in
> making sure that the hole that you drill is "exactly" in the center of th=
e
> hole in the hinge.
Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill with a
#8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the drill
bit with a tapered one.
Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.
It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
pop one in and out of my impact drivers.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:98797fef-3ddd-4338-b0e8-6391bb8bc52b@s36g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 31, 1:11 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:cfce99a5-b3e5-43cd-9f1d-abdbd54f5d80@r37g2000prr.googlegroups.com...
>
Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill with a
#8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the drill
bit with a tapered one.
Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.
It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
pop one in and out of my impact drivers.
All of mine are hex drive, I use them in my Makita impact driver. Rockler
has'em.
The only real problem with the Euro style hinges is that your stock/ stile
has to be at least 1.5" wide and at least 1/2" thick. I have probably
installed a thousand of them. You typically do not need any type of
template if you have a drill press and while a vix bit is not necessary,
using one insures that the screws that hold the hinge on to the door remain
flat and not go in at an angle. It is an appearance thing.
"Bill T. Ray" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It seems no one has mentioned Blum hinges for a solution. They are
> European hinges that require a large hole and screw holes. Their main
> advantage is that they are adjustable. I used them on an entertainment
> center that has a 3 ft. x 18 in. door with a 1/4 in smoked glass
> inserted in the oak rails and stiles. It is heavy. The cabinet also
> has four smaller oak doors that have blum hinges, but they are much
> lighter. All the doors still function wonderfully 20 years after I
> made it. My daughter left the door open one night and then ran into it
> in the dark. It took me about 5 min to readjust the hinges. I also
> like Blum hinges because they are invisible.
>
> With Blum hinges you do not use the hinge for location. You don't need
> Vix bits, which I also love for some applications. I did not use a
> template to drill the holes. I did buy a cheap plywood jig, but
> decided it was worthless and didn't use it. You must be very careful
> with location. A good template is expensive. The Blum Ecodrill Hinge
> Jig With Bit & Driver is about $250 to $300. I have almost finished a
> half dozen standard size book cases (3 ft. x 7 ft.) with the top
> shelves open and the bottom with double doors. It is finished except
> for the doors. I'm soon to make new kitchen cabinets. I'm considering
> buying the blasted Ecodrill jig for these projects. I still have to
> talk to my accountant (wife), but she probably knows me well enough
> after 30 years to figure I just won't do it if I can't get the tools I
> want. We'll see.
>
> Bill
>
> To reply to my email remove NOSPAM and add help in the subject line.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, 31 Jan 2009 09:18:40 -0800 (PST), [email protected] wrote:
>
>>Hi All,
>>
>> Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
>>so the door fits perfectly. Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
>>are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
>>are called. My standard is a perfect fit: Even, Flush, no Sideways
>>displacement. At All! I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
>>same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
>>pieces.
>>
>>
>>You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
>>when the door is closed????? (I can drill pretty accurately if
>>needed) There must be a trick I'm missing. Any suggestions???
>>
>>
>>Thanks for the help.
>>
>>Rich.....
http://www.garrettwade.com/professional-hex-shank-andquot%3Bvix-bitsandquot%3B/p/23K01ddd21/
Your dream is come true! It's what I've been using
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Jan 31, 1:57 pm, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*[email protected]>
wrote:
> "Robatoy" wrote
>
> Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill
> with a
> #8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the
> drill
> bit with a tapered one.
> Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no
> substitutes.
>
> It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I
> could
> pop one in and out of my impact drivers.
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> Any possibility of cutting a small peice off of a 1/4 " hex key
> and welding
> it to the vix bit??
>
> Or are the bits too small?
I am not sure what metal the upper housing of the Vix bits are
made
from, but I looks like non weld-able pot-aluminium-like stuff.
Leon??
I'm still looking to find a small ( 3/8" or smaller) chuck with a
1/4"
hex-shaft base that I can pop in my impact driver. Buying
hex-based
drill bits is a non starter. I have yet to find any that are
decent.
Every time I see what looks like a small chuck, it is invariably
another proprietary receptacle for some other company's driver
bits.
On Jan 31, 5:02=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:98797fef-3ddd-4338-b0e8-6391bb8bc52b@s36g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
> On Jan 31, 1:11 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:> <cwo4c=
[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >news:cfce99a5-b3e5-43cd-9f1d-abdbd54f5d80@r37g2000prr.googlegroups.com..=
.
>
> Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill with a
> #8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the drill
> bit with a tapered one.
> Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.
> It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
> pop one in and out of my impact drivers.
>
> All of mine are hex drive, I use them in my Makita impact driver. =A0Rock=
ler
> has'em.
Oh, cool. Time for an upgrade, eh?
On Jan 31, 12:18=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> =A0 =A0Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hing=
e
> so the door fits perfectly. =A0Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
> are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
> are called. =A0 My standard is a perfect fit: =A0Even, Flush, no Sideways
> displacement. =A0At All! =A0I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
> same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
> pieces.
>
> You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
> when the door is closed????? =A0 (I can drill pretty accurately if
> needed) =A0There must be a trick I'm missing. =A0Any suggestions???
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Rich.....
You've seen the dowel centers that look like a top hat with a point
pointing downwards from the brim. Put the center in a drilled hole
until it bottoms out against the brim, push the piece to be marked
against the points and tap it to make the marks.
Well, now think of a similar piece with the point coming out of the
top of the hat. Screw the hinge to one piece, insert a couple of
these centers and then close the hinge on them, so that the points
stick out. Put the door in place and tap it to mark the centers.
Or, you could cut off some flat head screws very short and grind or
turn points on the shanks.
Either is pretty easy to do if you have access to a small metal lathe.
John Martin
It seems no one has mentioned Blum hinges for a solution. They are
European hinges that require a large hole and screw holes. Their main
advantage is that they are adjustable. I used them on an entertainment
center that has a 3 ft. x 18 in. door with a 1/4 in smoked glass
inserted in the oak rails and stiles. It is heavy. The cabinet also
has four smaller oak doors that have blum hinges, but they are much
lighter. All the doors still function wonderfully 20 years after I
made it. My daughter left the door open one night and then ran into it
in the dark. It took me about 5 min to readjust the hinges. I also
like Blum hinges because they are invisible.
With Blum hinges you do not use the hinge for location. You don't need
Vix bits, which I also love for some applications. I did not use a
template to drill the holes. I did buy a cheap plywood jig, but
decided it was worthless and didn't use it. You must be very careful
with location. A good template is expensive. The Blum Ecodrill Hinge
Jig With Bit & Driver is about $250 to $300. I have almost finished a
half dozen standard size book cases (3 ft. x 7 ft.) with the top
shelves open and the bottom with double doors. It is finished except
for the doors. I'm soon to make new kitchen cabinets. I'm considering
buying the blasted Ecodrill jig for these projects. I still have to
talk to my accountant (wife), but she probably knows me well enough
after 30 years to figure I just won't do it if I can't get the tools I
want. We'll see.
Bill
To reply to my email remove NOSPAM and add help in the subject line.
On Sat, 31 Jan 2009 09:18:40 -0800 (PST), [email protected] wrote:
>Hi All,
>
> Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
>so the door fits perfectly. Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
>are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
>are called. My standard is a perfect fit: Even, Flush, no Sideways
>displacement. At All! I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
>same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
>pieces.
>
>
>You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
>when the door is closed????? (I can drill pretty accurately if
>needed) There must be a trick I'm missing. Any suggestions???
>
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>Rich.....