I have a piece of cherry furniture that I am (re)working due to finish
problems.
Original finish was 3 coats full strength pure tung oil (lee valley). On
the top I added a coat of furniture wax.
I thought I gave the tun oil plenty of time to cure in the process (about 2
weeks), but evidently not. The oil and the wax reacted and the surface
became very rough and blotchy -- even places where I did not use the wax
became rough as well.
I am in the process of trying to remove the old finish and start over. I
have since used the same pure tung oil (this time mixed 50/50 with Mineal
spirits) on other project with great results.
I have tried using pure mineral siprits to cut through the wax and it did
not seem to help. I am currently trying to sand / scrape my way through the
finish. Its getting a bit frustrating as I am loading up sanding pads on
the order 1/sqft of wood with caked on gunk (I assume finish)
I am looking for any thought on what else to try -- if sanding / scraping is
the way to go then so bit it, just want to make sure I am not missing
anything.
Cheers
In article <[email protected]>, Sam the Cat
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I am looking for any thought on what else to try -- if sanding / scraping is
> the way to go then so bit it, just want to make sure I am not missing
> anything.
When you say scrape, are you meaning with a cabinet scraper? I had to
remove wax from a maple CD shelf recently and a sharp scraper with a 5
degree hook did a great job.
--
"The thing about saying the wrong words is that A, I don't notice it, and B,
sometimes orange water gibbon bucket and plastic." -- Mr. Burrows
"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I have tried using pure mineral siprits to cut through the wax and it did
> not seem to help. I am currently trying to sand / scrape my way through
the
> finish. Its getting a bit frustrating as I am loading up sanding pads on
> the order 1/sqft of wood with caked on gunk (I assume finish)
>
> I am looking for any thought on what else to try -- if sanding / scraping
is
> the way to go then so bit it, just want to make sure I am not missing
> anything.
>
Try a woven pad that you can rinse out periodically. Alternative is wet
sanding with SiC.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:_Wg3e.62$Jn2.9@trnddc09...
> Hate to ask but you did thoroughly wipe off the tung oil that remained
> on the surface after applying each coat, right? I ask because my lame
> father in law tried to put it on like varnish, wound up a pretty mess.
> Also a sticky one :)
>
Sure did -- I have also used tung oil full strength before as well, but it
was a different brand
"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I am looking for any thought on what else to try -- if sanding /
> scraping is the way to go then so bit it, just want to make sure I am
> not missing anything.
VM&P Naptha, in a well ventilated shop. Use lots of rags, and hang them to
dry, outside if possible. You want to remove the wax most of all, first,
and the naptha should do that. You shouldn't need more than that.
BTW, some cherry is going to blotch anyway. What you have may be prone to
that. DAGS on cherry + oil finish, and or look over at Jeff Jewitt's site,
www.homesteadfinishing.com
Patriarch
Sam the Cat wrote:
> I have a piece of cherry furniture that I am (re)working due to finish
> problems.
>
> Original finish was 3 coats full strength pure tung oil (lee valley).
> On the top I added a coat of furniture wax.
>
> I thought I gave the tun oil plenty of time to cure in the process
> (about 2 weeks), but evidently not. The oil and the wax reacted and
> the surface became very rough and blotchy -- even places where I did
> not use the wax became rough as well.
Hate to ask but you did thoroughly wipe off the tung oil that remained
on the surface after applying each coat, right? I ask because my lame
father in law tried to put it on like varnish, wound up a pretty mess.
Also a sticky one :)
--
dadiOH
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