mm

mkr5000

07/07/2012 1:28 PM

Planer groove

I have a nice Dewalt DW733 planer that I use occasionally, new blades but I'm having trouble with the first 2 or 3 inches showing a recess when the planer grabs the oak. (I think it's the feed end anyway).

Is there a trick to keep this from happening? I've tried using very shallow cuts but still getting it.

Even trying to sand these out is time consuming.


This topic has 10 replies

mm

mkr5000

in reply to mkr5000 on 07/07/2012 1:28 PM

07/07/2012 1:29 PM

by the way -- talking about a recess the entire width of the board.

Pp

Puckdropper

in reply to mkr5000 on 07/07/2012 1:28 PM

07/07/2012 9:02 PM

mkr5000 <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I have a nice Dewalt DW733 planer that I use occasionally, new blades
> but I'm having trouble with the first 2 or 3 inches showing a recess
> when the planer grabs the oak. (I think it's the feed end anyway).
>
> Is there a trick to keep this from happening? I've tried using very
> shallow cuts but still getting it.
>
> Even trying to sand these out is time consuming.

Sounds like snipe. Extremely common on planers the size of the 733.

Put upward pressure on the end of the board as it's entering and exiting
the planer. This will reduce and often eliminate the sniping.

What's happening is the board is only held in place by one feed roller,
so it's able to move up and down. Putting upward pressure on the board
pushes it down against the table and keeps it from moving until the
second feed roller (on the other side of the knives) catches.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

mm

mkr5000

in reply to mkr5000 on 07/07/2012 1:28 PM

07/07/2012 1:52 PM

just printed that out -- thanks. makes sense.

you hit on something though -- if I can't solve the problem, I'll just use boards 3 inches longer than I need.

kk

in reply to mkr5000 on 07/07/2012 1:28 PM

07/07/2012 4:57 PM

On Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:52:51 -0700 (PDT), mkr5000 <[email protected]> wrote:

>just printed that out -- thanks. makes sense.
>
>you hit on something though -- if I can't solve the problem, I'll just use boards 3 inches longer than I need.

Right. It's a lot easier to machine boards after the boards are thicknessed,
flat, and true. It's easier to make them shorter and narrower than longer and
wider. ;-)

Rr

RonB

in reply to mkr5000 on 07/07/2012 1:28 PM

07/07/2012 1:49 PM

On Jul 7, 3:38=A0pm, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:28:13 -0700 (PDT), mkr5000 <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I have a nice Dewalt DW733 planer that I use occasionally, new blades bu=
t I'm having trouble with the first 2 or 3 inches showing a recess when the=
planer grabs the oak. (I think it's the feed end anyway).
>
> >Is there a trick to keep this from happening? I've tried using very shal=
low cuts but still getting it.
>
> >Even trying to sand these out is time consuming.
>
> It is known as "snipe"
>
> First step is to lock the cutter head if it is not already.
>
> There are a few tricks that work.
>
> Be sure the in feed and out feed tables are aligned to each other. =A0If
> possible, extend the tables for better support on longer boards.
>
> Some people leave the board long and trim off the end couple of
> inches.
>
> If you are planing more than one board, start one through the planer
> and when the back end gets near the in feed table, put the next board
> right up to it and push it along so it is like one long board. =A0If you
> are doing narrow board that fit two or more across, make them run
> along side of each other, even if staggered.

What Ed said plus if you are planing longer stock support the back end
lightly with your hand until it is well into the machine. Then walk
around and do the same as the board is about to leave the planer.
Helps especially with heavier stock.

RonB

JW

Jim Weisgram

in reply to mkr5000 on 07/07/2012 1:28 PM

08/07/2012 3:02 PM

On Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:28:13 -0700 (PDT), mkr5000 <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I have a nice Dewalt DW733 planer that I use occasionally, new blades but I'm having trouble with the first 2 or 3 inches showing a recess when the planer grabs the oak. (I think it's the feed end anyway).
>
>Is there a trick to keep this from happening? I've tried using very shallow cuts but still getting it.
>
>Even trying to sand these out is time consuming.

Another trick some have used is to hot glue (or use superglue) longer
strips to the outside edges of the board. They have to be a bit
thicker than the board itself.

EP

Ed Pawlowski

in reply to mkr5000 on 07/07/2012 1:28 PM

07/07/2012 4:38 PM

On Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:28:13 -0700 (PDT), mkr5000 <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I have a nice Dewalt DW733 planer that I use occasionally, new blades but I'm having trouble with the first 2 or 3 inches showing a recess when the planer grabs the oak. (I think it's the feed end anyway).
>
>Is there a trick to keep this from happening? I've tried using very shallow cuts but still getting it.
>
>Even trying to sand these out is time consuming.


It is known as "snipe"

First step is to lock the cutter head if it is not already.

There are a few tricks that work.

Be sure the in feed and out feed tables are aligned to each other. If
possible, extend the tables for better support on longer boards.

Some people leave the board long and trim off the end couple of
inches.

If you are planing more than one board, start one through the planer
and when the back end gets near the in feed table, put the next board
right up to it and push it along so it is like one long board. If you
are doing narrow board that fit two or more across, make them run
along side of each other, even if staggered.

Ab

"Artemus"

in reply to mkr5000 on 07/07/2012 1:28 PM

08/07/2012 1:29 PM


"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Sounds like snipe. Extremely common on planers the size of the 733.
>
> Put upward pressure on the end of the board as it's entering and exiting
> the planer. This will reduce and often eliminate the sniping.
>
> What's happening is the board is only held in place by one feed roller,
> so it's able to move up and down. Putting upward pressure on the board
> pushes it down against the table and keeps it from moving until the
> second feed roller (on the other side of the knives) catches.
>
> Puckdropper
> --

This solution has worked for me with my Ridged planer.
To clarify a bit, put upward pressure on the end of the board that is
not in the planer.
Art

kk

in reply to mkr5000 on 07/07/2012 1:28 PM

07/07/2012 4:50 PM

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 16:38:45 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:28:13 -0700 (PDT), mkr5000 <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>I have a nice Dewalt DW733 planer that I use occasionally, new blades but I'm having trouble with the first 2 or 3 inches showing a recess when the planer grabs the oak. (I think it's the feed end anyway).
>>
>>Is there a trick to keep this from happening? I've tried using very shallow cuts but still getting it.
>>
>>Even trying to sand these out is time consuming.
>
>
>It is known as "snipe"
>
>First step is to lock the cutter head if it is not already.
>
>There are a few tricks that work.
>
>Be sure the in feed and out feed tables are aligned to each other. If
>possible, extend the tables for better support on longer boards.
>
>Some people leave the board long and trim off the end couple of
>inches.
>
>If you are planing more than one board, start one through the planer
>and when the back end gets near the in feed table, put the next board
>right up to it and push it along so it is like one long board. If you
>are doing narrow board that fit two or more across, make them run
>along side of each other, even if staggered.

What Ed said:

http://newwoodworker.com/plnrsuprt.html

Ll

Leon

in reply to mkr5000 on 07/07/2012 1:28 PM

08/07/2012 9:57 AM

On 7/7/2012 3:52 PM, mkr5000 wrote:
> just printed that out -- thanks. makes sense.
>
> you hit on something though -- if I can't solve the problem, I'll just use boards 3 inches longer than I need.
>


A good practice anyway as there are often splits on the ends of the
boards that need to be cut off.


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