Advice please! I'm a beginner, working for the first time with teak,
making a small pair of candleholders. I read somewhere that glueing is
tricky, as the wood is so oily. What should I use?? The joint in
question won't be under any load (hey, it's only a candleholder), but I want
it to last.
(Oh, and while we're about it, any other advice in working with this rather
wonderful stuff, also appreciated. BTW, the guy that sold it to me said it
was FSC certified, not plundered unsustainably from some Burmese forest).
- Bernie
On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 19:47:01 +0000 (UTC), "Frank McVey"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi Bernie,
>
>This is a bit of an old chestnut. Sure some teak can be pretty oily, but
>I've worked with plenty that isn't. I've used both white and yellow
>carpenter's glue (Evostick resin W, a PVA glue, and Titebond) with good
>results. My last job using teak was to laminate a tiller for a 38 ft yacht
>from teak and English oak - I used West Systems epoxy resin for that job.
I don't think teak is all that oily anymore. a easy test will poly dry on it? if
it stays tacky it has a fair amount of oil.
cocobolo and padouk are really oily ipe too. but little teak I used did not
seem very oily.
but as usually a fresh milled/sanded surface is the best thing for gluing oily
woods.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
Whenever I want to be really sure about the glue on oily wood I use the nasty
stuff - formaldehyde resin. Dap makes
it and Elmer's makes it although it isn't
that easy to find in stores. It comes in
two cans, a resin and a powder. Once
I had to veneer a curved surface with
rosewood and every time it would come
out with bubbles. I tried Elmer's, epoxy,
etc. after soaking the wood in a tray
of solvent until the water turned red.
Nothing would work except the formalde-
hyde resin. And its what they used
to hold down the teak decks on old
wooden Chris Craft boats.
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Teak_Tips.html
"Bernie Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:RV%[email protected]...
> Advice please! I'm a beginner, working for the first time with teak,
> making a small pair of candleholders. I read somewhere that glueing is
> tricky, as the wood is so oily. What should I use?? The joint in
> question won't be under any load (hey, it's only a candleholder), but I
want
> it to last.
>
> (Oh, and while we're about it, any other advice in working with this
rather
> wonderful stuff, also appreciated. BTW, the guy that sold it to me said
it
> was FSC certified, not plundered unsustainably from some Burmese forest).
>
> - Bernie
>
>
On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 16:57:21 GMT, "Bernie Ross"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What should I use??
Almost anything - for a low-stress joint like a candleholder, even a
water-based PVA would probably be adequate.
Polyurethane and epoxy are unaffected by its oiliness. Personally I
use epoxy.
>BTW, the guy that sold it to me said it
>was FSC certified, not plundered unsustainably from some Burmese forest).
It's probably plundered from a Cambodian forest. Fraudulent paperwork
is _rife_ with teak. Malaysia has a sawmill industry with a capacity
4x what they need for their own logging industry, and they're keen to
keep it busy. There's a really big problem with one kosher log going
into a sawmill and coming out as several times as much sawn timber,
all with matching paperwork.
--
Smert' spamionam
Somewhere in the various woodworking publication I received over the last
two months the subject of gluing oily woods was addressed and tests run.
While I can remember the article and results of the tests I can not remember
which publication it was in.
Traditional wisdom was that wiping a prospective glue joint down with
naphtha or other quick drying "oil remover" was what was necessary to get a
successful glue joint.
The article and tests done refute this bit of wisdom and the results of the
test showed that a freshly sanded area to be glued provides the strongest
bond.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Bernie Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:RV%[email protected]...
> Advice please! I'm a beginner, working for the first time with teak,
> making a small pair of candleholders. I read somewhere that glueing is
> tricky, as the wood is so oily. What should I use?? The joint in
> question won't be under any load (hey, it's only a candleholder), but I
want
> it to last.
>
> (Oh, and while we're about it, any other advice in working with this
rather
> wonderful stuff, also appreciated. BTW, the guy that sold it to me said
it
> was FSC certified, not plundered unsustainably from some Burmese forest).
>
> - Bernie
>
>
Hi Bernie,
This is a bit of an old chestnut. Sure some teak can be pretty oily, but
I've worked with plenty that isn't. I've used both white and yellow
carpenter's glue (Evostick resin W, a PVA glue, and Titebond) with good
results. My last job using teak was to laminate a tiller for a 38 ft yacht
from teak and English oak - I used West Systems epoxy resin for that job.
If you're twitchy about it, degrease the gluing surface with any solvent
degreaser, acetone being the usually recommeded one, before gluing.
Cheers
Frank
"Bernie Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:RV%[email protected]...
> Advice please! I'm a beginner, working for the first time with teak,
> making a small pair of candleholders. I read somewhere that glueing is
> tricky, as the wood is so oily. What should I use?? The joint in
> question won't be under any load (hey, it's only a candleholder), but I
want
> it to last.
>
> (Oh, and while we're about it, any other advice in working with this
rather
> wonderful stuff, also appreciated. BTW, the guy that sold it to me said
it
> was FSC certified, not plundered unsustainably from some Burmese forest).
>
> - Bernie
>
>
On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 16:57:21 GMT, "Bernie Ross"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Advice please! I'm a beginner, working for the first time with teak,
>making a small pair of candleholders. I read somewhere that glueing is
>tricky, as the wood is so oily. What should I use?? The joint in
>question won't be under any load (hey, it's only a candleholder), but I want
>it to last.
>
>(Oh, and while we're about it, any other advice in working with this rather
>wonderful stuff, also appreciated. BTW, the guy that sold it to me said it
>was FSC certified, not plundered unsustainably from some Burmese forest).
>
>- Bernie
>
Regular carpenter's glue works fine. You need to clean the joints
with acetone before the glue up. The polyurethane glues are supposed
to work well too, but I do have personal experience with these on
teak.
I too, read that article. It probably was in either FWW or Wood, as
that's the two I subscribe to. The author prefers fresh sanding to any
kind of chemical treatment.
dave
Mike G wrote:
> Somewhere in the various woodworking publication I received over the last
> two months the subject of gluing oily woods was addressed and tests run.
> While I can remember the article and results of the tests I can not remember
> which publication it was in.
>
> Traditional wisdom was that wiping a prospective glue joint down with
> naphtha or other quick drying "oil remover" was what was necessary to get a
> successful glue joint.
>
> The article and tests done refute this bit of wisdom and the results of the
> test showed that a freshly sanded area to be glued provides the strongest
> bond.
>