I was wondering this.
It's never ideal of course, but sooner or later for small projects I
end up needing to end-screw (side screw?) into a plywood sheet. Is
there a "teethier" than normal woodscrew for the job?
A woodworker for small projects that I saw was using drywall screws
which just don't ever work well in any wood IME, but beats me about
plywood.
On Mar 2, 9:03=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/2/10 5:58 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>
> > On Mar 2, 11:54 am, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> On 3/2/10 1:13 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>
> > [ screws into plywood edges]
> >>> If you have to, prep the plywood by boring a transverse hole, blind i=
f
> >>> you want one side to show, and cement in a chunk of dowel.
>
> >> Threaded insert, maybe.
>
> > There are metal 'cylinder nuts' that will go in a bored hole and hold
> > a transverse machine screw. =A0Is that what you're thinking of?
>
> > The cylinder nut solution is sometimes used in bedframes.
>
> Google "threaded insert" and that's what I'm talking about.
>
> I believe what you described is called a dowel nut.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
I always called them IKEA's revenge nuts.
"Thomas G. Marshall" wrote:
Interesting idea. Given how much adhesive (epoxy?) is used in the
making of these things I'm tempted to tap out something coarse and use
a machine screw. :)
-------------------------------------
If you truly want to solve the problem, drill an oversize hole, say
1/2"-3/4" based on size of fastener (At least 2-2.5 screw diameters).
Then fill it with epoxy putty made from slow epoxy and micro-balloons
after sealing bottom with tape.
Allow to cure 48-72 hours, then drill a pilot hole (75% of fastener
OD), and use the afore mentioned coarse thread self tapping sheet
metal screw.
Guarantee you that puppy won't fail.
BTDT, hundreds of times, keep the T-Shirt.
Have fun.
Lew
"Thomas G. Marshall" wrote:
> ---------------------------------------
> Try coarse thread, self tapping sheet metal screws.
-----------------------------------------
I was wondering this, but couldn't come up with the reason I thought
so. Why would that work? Thread gaps alone?
----------------------------------------
Using a 75% pilot hole, the coarse thread cuts thru the wood fibers
rather than crushing them.
The coarse thread also leaves a larger wood cross section to carry the
shear load.
Lew
On Mar 1, 6:25=A0pm, "Thomas G. Marshall" <[email protected]> wrote:
> It's never ideal of course, but sooner or later for small projects I
> end up needing to end-screw (side screw?) into a plywood sheet.
If you have to, prep the plywood by boring a transverse hole, blind if
you want one side to show, and cement in a chunk of dowel.
For 3/4" ply, a 5/8" Forstner bit, some glue, and the dowel has the
right
woodgrain to hold a transverse screw.
On 03/02/2010 12:16 AM, Thomas G. Marshall wrote:
> Interesting idea. Given how much adhesive (epoxy?) is used in the
> making of these things I'm tempted to tap out something coarse and use
> a machine screw. :)
Machine screws actually work really well in tapped holes in tight
grained hardwoods like maple.
Chris
On Mar 1, 9:25=A0pm, "Thomas G. Marshall" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I was wondering this.
>
> It's never ideal of course, but sooner or later for small projects I
> end up needing to end-screw (side screw?) into a plywood sheet. =A0Is
> there a "teethier" than normal woodscrew for the job?
>
> A woodworker for small projects that I saw was using drywall screws
> which just don't ever work well in any wood IME, but beats me about
> plywood.
Particle board screws, aka low-root, work well if you drill a pilot
hole. A drill bit slightly larger than the root of the screw works
best. If you drill too small a pilot hole, the threads will try to
push the plies apart, weakening their hold.
On Mar 2, 8:03=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/2/10 5:58 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>
> > On Mar 2, 11:54 am, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> On 3/2/10 1:13 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>
> > [ screws into plywood edges]
> >>> If you have to, prep the plywood by boring a transverse hole, blind i=
f
> >>> you want one side to show, and cement in a chunk of dowel.
>
> >> Threaded insert, maybe.
>
> > There are metal 'cylinder nuts' that will go in a bored hole and hold
> > a transverse machine screw. =A0Is that what you're thinking of?
>
> > The cylinder nut solution is sometimes used in bedframes.
>
> Google "threaded insert" and that's what I'm talking about.
>
> I believe what you described is called a dowel nut.
I've always called them "cross dowels".
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Cross_dowel_cutaway.png
On Mar 1, 10:05=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mar 1, 9:25=A0pm, "Thomas G. Marshall" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I was wondering this.
>
> > It's never ideal of course, but sooner or later for small projects I
> > end up needing to end-screw (side screw?) into a plywood sheet. =A0Is
> > there a "teethier" than normal woodscrew for the job?
>
> > A woodworker for small projects that I saw was using drywall screws
> > which just don't ever work well in any wood IME, but beats me about
> > plywood.
>
> Particle board screws, aka low-root, work well if you drill a pilot
> hole. A drill bit slightly larger than the root of the screw works
> best. If you drill too small a pilot hole, the threads will try to
> push the plies apart, weakening their hold.
Interesting idea. Given how much adhesive (epoxy?) is used in the
making of these things I'm tempted to tap out something coarse and use
a machine screw. :)
On Mar 1, 9:33=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Thomas G. Marshall" wrote:
>
> > Is
> > there a "teethier" than normal woodscrew for the job?
>
> ---------------------------------------
> Try coarse thread, self tapping sheet metal screws.
I was wondering this, but couldn't come up with the reason I thought
so. Why would that work? Thread gaps alone?
On Mar 2, 11:54=A0am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/2/10 1:13 PM, whit3rd wrote:
[ screws into plywood edges]
> > If you have to, prep the plywood by boring a transverse hole, blind if
> > you want one side to show, and cement in a chunk of dowel.
> Threaded insert, maybe.
There are metal 'cylinder nuts' that will go in a bored hole and hold
a transverse machine screw. Is that what you're thinking of?
The cylinder nut solution is sometimes used in bedframes.
On 3/2/10 1:13 PM, whit3rd wrote:
> On Mar 1, 6:25 pm, "Thomas G. Marshall"<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>> It's never ideal of course, but sooner or later for small projects I
>> end up needing to end-screw (side screw?) into a plywood sheet.
>
> If you have to, prep the plywood by boring a transverse hole, blind if
> you want one side to show, and cement in a chunk of dowel.
> For 3/4" ply, a 5/8" Forstner bit, some glue, and the dowel has the
> right
> woodgrain to hold a transverse screw.
>
Threaded insert, maybe.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/2/10 5:58 PM, whit3rd wrote:
> On Mar 2, 11:54 am, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 3/2/10 1:13 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>
> [ screws into plywood edges]
>>> If you have to, prep the plywood by boring a transverse hole, blind if
>>> you want one side to show, and cement in a chunk of dowel.
>
>> Threaded insert, maybe.
>
> There are metal 'cylinder nuts' that will go in a bored hole and hold
> a transverse machine screw. Is that what you're thinking of?
>
> The cylinder nut solution is sometimes used in bedframes.
Google "threaded insert" and that's what I'm talking about.
I believe what you described is called a dowel nut.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:81915f10-a0fe-445c-9883-d648e5bab705@l24g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 1, 6:25 pm, "Thomas G. Marshall" <[email protected]> wrote:
> It's never ideal of course, but sooner or later for small projects I
> end up needing to end-screw (side screw?) into a plywood sheet.
If you have to, prep the plywood by boring a transverse hole, blind if
you want one side to show, and cement in a chunk of dowel.
For 3/4" ply, a 5/8" Forstner bit, some glue, and the dowel has the
right
woodgrain to hold a transverse screw.
Your reply was worth wading through tons of chaff to read - a great idea
that I will retain for future use!
Thanks!
On 3/3/10 7:50 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mar 2, 8:03 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 3/2/10 5:58 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>>
>>> On Mar 2, 11:54 am, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> On 3/2/10 1:13 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>>
>>> [ screws into plywood edges]
>>>>> If you have to, prep the plywood by boring a transverse hole, blind if
>>>>> you want one side to show, and cement in a chunk of dowel.
>>
>>>> Threaded insert, maybe.
>>
>>> There are metal 'cylinder nuts' that will go in a bored hole and hold
>>> a transverse machine screw. Is that what you're thinking of?
>>
>>> The cylinder nut solution is sometimes used in bedframes.
>>
>> Google "threaded insert" and that's what I'm talking about.
>>
>> I believe what you described is called a dowel nut.
>
> I've always called them "cross dowels".
>
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Cross_dowel_cutaway.png
Tomato, tomato.
Of course, that saying doesn't work very well when read instead of
spoken. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Depends on the job but Drywall screws can work well for small projects.
They should not be used for structural support but used along with glue they
can provide quick assembly.
Most of all they are really inexpensive so
Use them for small things not for 2 story ladders >:oP
"Thomas G. Marshall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I was wondering this.
>
> It's never ideal of course, but sooner or later for small projects I
> end up needing to end-screw (side screw?) into a plywood sheet. Is
> there a "teethier" than normal woodscrew for the job?
>
> A woodworker for small projects that I saw was using drywall screws
> which just don't ever work well in any wood IME, but beats me about
> plywood.
On Wed, 03 Mar 2010 11:42:06 -0600, the infamous -MIKE-
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On 3/3/10 7:50 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Mar 2, 8:03 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On 3/2/10 5:58 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Mar 2, 11:54 am, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> On 3/2/10 1:13 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>>>
>>>> [ screws into plywood edges]
>>>>>> If you have to, prep the plywood by boring a transverse hole, blind if
>>>>>> you want one side to show, and cement in a chunk of dowel.
>>>
>>>>> Threaded insert, maybe.
>>>
>>>> There are metal 'cylinder nuts' that will go in a bored hole and hold
>>>> a transverse machine screw. Is that what you're thinking of?
>>>
>>>> The cylinder nut solution is sometimes used in bedframes.
>>>
>>> Google "threaded insert" and that's what I'm talking about.
>>>
>>> I believe what you described is called a dowel nut.
>>
>> I've always called them "cross dowels".
>>
>> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Cross_dowel_cutaway.png
>
>Tomato, tomato.
>
>Of course, that saying doesn't work very well when read instead of
>spoken. :-)
So you spell it "Tomato, tomahto.", silly.
--
An author spends months writing a book, and maybe puts his
heart's blood into it, and then it lies about unread till
the reader has nothing else in the world to do.
-- W. Somerset Maugham, The Razor's Edge, 1943