hey,
I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something other
than disaster.
thanks,
Jock
* where 'ay' = way. keyboard is half broke!
Jock
"Jock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> hey,
> I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
> finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
> anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
> before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something
> other than disaster.
> thanks,
> Jock
>
Walmart sells it. Now if you can get it to work on a car, with or without a
m/c, let me know.
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
Jock wrote:
> hey,
> I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
> finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
> anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
> before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something other
> than disaster.
> thanks,
> Jock
On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 10:56:07 GMT, "Jock" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>hey,
>I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
>finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
>anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
>before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something other
>than disaster.
>thanks,
>Jock
>
Confusing point here... have you put poly on it already??
If not, I'd sand it to 600 or so and then go over it with a polisher like ultra
sheen or something... that brings it up to maybe 2400 grit...
Then buff the heck out of it, with a good 3 wheel system like the Beall, if
possible.. YMWV
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
"Jock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> * where 'ay' = way. keyboard is half broke!
> Jock
> "Jock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > hey,
> > I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
> > finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
> > anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of
finish
> > before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something
> > other than disaster.
> > thanks,
> > Jock
> >
>
>
You will probably want to gently sand it or wet sand it with something on
the order of 1200-1500 grit paper. This will knock down any dust nibs or
other small imperfections. It will also kill the shine if you've applied a
gloss finish. You can then buff it back up with automotive rubbing compound
(either by hand or with a buffer) to bring back the shine. That would give
you a finish that is as smooth as glass.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
mac,
I have one coat on, still drying :( because it's quite cold here at present.
I finish sanded with 400 on my random orbital, I will probably go the fine
sand (600 or better) between coats and reapply the poly till a deep finish
is achieved.
I turned some Mulga ( an aussie desert type hardwood) for a chisel handle
and sanded it then put the pure beeswax into it on the lathe then used a
piece of western red cedar as a friction block melting the wax into the
spinning piece. With a buff to finish it (a dry cloth) it came up with an
amazing lustre.
I only have sanders to use on this shelf project, not anything more tooly
than a lambswool pad on the r/o sander so I will persevere with this new
info..
Thanks for all the comments guys, much appreciated.
Jock
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 10:56:07 GMT, "Jock" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>hey,
>>I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
>>finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
>>anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
>>before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something
>>other
>>than disaster.
>>thanks,
>>Jock
>>
> Confusing point here... have you put poly on it already??
>
> If not, I'd sand it to 600 or so and then go over it with a polisher like
> ultra
> sheen or something... that brings it up to maybe 2400 grit...
> Then buff the heck out of it, with a good 3 wheel system like the Beall,
> if
> possible.. YMWV
> Mac
>
> https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
> https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "Jock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:%[email protected]...
> > * where 'ay' = way. keyboard is half broke!
> > Jock
> > "Jock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > hey,
> > > I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
> > > finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
> > > anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of
> finish
> > > before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something
> > > other than disaster.
> > > thanks,
> > > Jock
> > >
> >
> >
>
> You will probably want to gently sand it or wet sand it with something on
> the order of 1200-1500 grit paper. This will knock down any dust nibs or
> other small imperfections. It will also kill the shine if you've applied a
> gloss finish. You can then buff it back up with automotive rubbing compound
> (either by hand or with a buffer) to bring back the shine. That would give
> you a finish that is as smooth as glass.
>
>
I put on several coats, lightly sanding between coats if there are
imperfections and/or if a bit of dust settled while drying. After the
final coat AND AFTER IT IS COMPLETELY DRY I wet sand with 1000 grit
wet/dry sandpaper. Then I use my random orbital sander with a pad and
do the final polish with it and rottenstone. I use a light oil to hold
the powdered rottenstone in place. It gives a really nice, velvety
smooth finish.
"Tex" <tex@my_isp.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
>>
>> "Jock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:%[email protected]...
>> > * where 'ay' = way. keyboard is half broke!
>> > Jock
>> > "Jock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> > > hey,
>> > > I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice
>> > > smooth
>> > > finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
>> > > anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of
>> finish
>> > > before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve
>> > > something
>> > > other than disaster.
>> > > thanks,
>> > > Jock
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> You will probably want to gently sand it or wet sand it with something on
>> the order of 1200-1500 grit paper. This will knock down any dust nibs or
>> other small imperfections. It will also kill the shine if you've applied
>> a
>> gloss finish. You can then buff it back up with automotive rubbing
>> compound
>> (either by hand or with a buffer) to bring back the shine. That would
>> give
>> you a finish that is as smooth as glass.
>>
>>
> I put on several coats, lightly sanding between coats if there are
> imperfections and/or if a bit of dust settled while drying. After the
> final coat AND AFTER IT IS COMPLETELY DRY I wet sand with 1000 grit
> wet/dry sandpaper. Then I use my random orbital sander with a pad and
> do the final polish with it and rottenstone. I use a light oil to hold
> the powdered rottenstone in place. It gives a really nice, velvety
> smooth finish.
Thanks all for the ideas, I have some winter cool at the moment so I have
lots of time to decide which method to try... like watching paint dry 'round
here!
Thanks again,
Jock
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 10:56:07 GMT, "Jock" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >hey,
> >I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
> >finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
> >anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
> >before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something
other
> >than disaster.
> >thanks,
> >Jock
> >
> Confusing point here... have you put poly on it already??
>
> If not, I'd sand it to 600 or so and then go over it with a polisher like
ultra
> sheen or something... that brings it up to maybe 2400 grit...
> Then buff the heck out of it, with a good 3 wheel system like the Beall,
if
> possible.. YMWV
> Mac
>
If the factory finish is not in very bad shape - which is to say, no gouges,
only surface scratches, I would not go as abrasive as 600. 1500 is plenty
abrasive enough for surfaces scratches. Any rubbing compound or the like
will then take it up to any luster desired. If the surface scratches are
quite minor, I would not even hit it with 1500. Just use a compound. 600
is really a tooth grit. You want it for primers and such where tooth is
desired.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Jock <[email protected]> wrote:
: hey,
: I am doing a shelf in Cypress Pine, I want a nice (really) nice smooth
: finish. With a lambswool pad on the random orbital sander, do I need
: anything as a buffing agent?? I have never gone for this level of finish
: before and would appreciate a word on the best ay to achieve something other
: than disaster.
The don't use polyurethane -- it's not very good for buffing
(it's tough, but not hard enough to buff well -- think rubber tire).
Both lacquer and shellac can be taken to a high polish -- using either
pumice and rottenstone, or a series of automotive polishing compounds.
You could also use an oil finish, let it cure, the use the Beall
buffing system.
-- Andy Barss