A Curmudgeon wrote:
> Thanks Andy. This is the first time using Formsby's tung oil so I
> didn't know how it acts. I'm trying to reduce the oily odor as it
> doesn't go well with tuna fush sandwiches. Thanks, Brian
I just want to make sure you are aware that Formsby's "Tung Oil Finish" is
actually a wiping varnish. See the article written by Bob Flexner at:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/finish2.html :
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 05:44:23 GMT, A Curmudgeon
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Seeking advice regarding applying another finish over tung.
I'd leave it as is, just re-oil regularly. So long as it's not a
lead-dried oil (which modern oils aren't) then it's plenty safe.
If you put wax over, you'll get white clouding whenever you try to
wash it. For a fruitbowl or similar, this might be OK - just wipe it.
If you really want to seal it, use shellac.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 18:21:29 +0000, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 13:57:02 GMT, A Curmudgeon
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>This is the first time using Formsby's tung oil so I
>>didn't know how it acts. I'm trying to reduce the oily odor
>
>Then I wouldn't use pure tung (if it isn't already finished). Either
>use a commercial blend of finishing oil (tung oil + thinners + driers)
>or use mineral oil.
>
>Commercial oils are thinner than tung, quicker drying, easier to
>apply, and much easier to apply as an initial coat on dry wood. They
>also have a far less persistent smell. Tung oil does lose this, but
>it's not quick. Keeping it warm and dry will help, not leaving it in
>the workshop overnight.
>
>Mineral oil is a non-drying oil that's good for chopping boards and
>salad bowls. You will need to re-apply it regularly, because washing
>will remove it.
Thanks Andy. The first 2 were already pretty much completed and they
came out so nice with the tung. The remaining 6 plates will get done
using both methods mentioned (first time with either of those methods
so it should be interesting.) Again, thanks. Brian
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 10:39:02 +0000, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 05:44:23 GMT, A Curmudgeon
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Seeking advice regarding applying another finish over tung.
>
>I'd leave it as is, just re-oil regularly. So long as it's not a
>lead-dried oil (which modern oils aren't) then it's plenty safe.
>
>If you put wax over, you'll get white clouding whenever you try to
>wash it. For a fruitbowl or similar, this might be OK - just wipe it.
>
>If you really want to seal it, use shellac.
Thanks Andy. This is the first time using Formsby's tung oil so I
didn't know how it acts. I'm trying to reduce the oily odor as it
doesn't go well with tuna fush sandwiches. Thanks, Brian
What exactly do you mean by food, apples, oranges, bananas, beef stew?
Then, what is the question, is it safe, can it go over tung oil, will it
protect?
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"A Curmudgeon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Seeking advice regarding applying another finish over tung. The
> subjects are hardwood plates that will come into contact with food.
> Thanks for your help. an old curmudgeon
Hi Brian
Oils are slow to cure but you can help it along by putting the plates in a
warm area with a good air flow. It's winter or almost. Got a heat register
that isn't somewhere where the odor will bother people. Not right on the
register of course, got to let the air cool a bit.
Failing that you can try wax, it won't hurt. If that doesn't work remove the
wax and try a light coat of shellac. Neither will last long and/or are easy
to remove and they may solve you odor problem long enough to let the oil
fully cure.
Good luck
Mike
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"A Curmudgeon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 5 Nov 2003 08:02:15 -0500, "Mike G"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you mean by food, apples, oranges, bananas, beef stew?
> >
> >Then, what is the question, is it safe, can it go over tung oil, will it
> >protect?
>
>
> Thanks for the response Mike, the reason for asking was more aesthetic
> than for protection. The tung has left a definite oil/spirit-type
> odor which I imagine might detract from the palate. They are plates;
> sandwich, cheese, etc. - no loose liquids. I understand that tung by
> itself is pretty well protected - it was just to reduce the oily odor.
> If tung loses it's odor over time then there is no problem and I won't
> attack it anymore. Thanks again, Brian
On Thu, 06 Nov 2003 21:33:59 GMT, Nova <[email protected]>
wrote:
>A Curmudgeon wrote:
>
>> Thanks Andy. This is the first time using Formsby's tung oil so I
>> didn't know how it acts. I'm trying to reduce the oily odor as it
>> doesn't go well with tuna fush sandwiches. Thanks, Brian
>
>I just want to make sure you are aware that Formsby's "Tung Oil Finish" is
>actually a wiping varnish. See the article written by Bob Flexner at:
>
> http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/finish2.html :
Thanks Jack, always appreciate knowledgeable advice and the chance to
learn. That would also explain why it has been curing overnight and
not the days-to-weeks that I'd read elsewhere. Brian
On Wed, 5 Nov 2003 08:02:15 -0500, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What exactly do you mean by food, apples, oranges, bananas, beef stew?
>
>Then, what is the question, is it safe, can it go over tung oil, will it
>protect?
Thanks for the response Mike, the reason for asking was more aesthetic
than for protection. The tung has left a definite oil/spirit-type
odor which I imagine might detract from the palate. They are plates;
sandwich, cheese, etc. - no loose liquids. I understand that tung by
itself is pretty well protected - it was just to reduce the oily odor.
If tung loses it's odor over time then there is no problem and I won't
attack it anymore. Thanks again, Brian
On Wed, 5 Nov 2003 21:06:54 -0500, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi Brian
>
>Oils are slow to cure but you can help it along by putting the plates in a
>warm area with a good air flow. It's winter or almost. Got a heat register
>that isn't somewhere where the odor will bother people. Not right on the
>register of course, got to let the air cool a bit.
>
Ambiant mean high temperature in the local area today was 87. Heat is
not a problem... but I understand - thanks. The first 2 plates came
out nice so I'll try the wax on them. Thanks, Brian
>Failing that you can try wax, it won't hurt. If that doesn't work remove the
>wax and try a light coat of shellac. Neither will last long and/or are easy
>to remove and they may solve you odor problem long enough to let the oil
>fully cure.
>
>
>Good luck
>Mike
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 13:57:02 GMT, A Curmudgeon
<[email protected]> wrote:
>This is the first time using Formsby's tung oil so I
>didn't know how it acts. I'm trying to reduce the oily odor
Then I wouldn't use pure tung (if it isn't already finished). Either
use a commercial blend of finishing oil (tung oil + thinners + driers)
or use mineral oil.
Commercial oils are thinner than tung, quicker drying, easier to
apply, and much easier to apply as an initial coat on dry wood. They
also have a far less persistent smell. Tung oil does lose this, but
it's not quick. Keeping it warm and dry will help, not leaving it in
the workshop overnight.
Mineral oil is a non-drying oil that's good for chopping boards and
salad bowls. You will need to re-apply it regularly, because washing
will remove it.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods